what did you do to your micra today ?

frank said:
5 deg of retard added to ed,s map mate, and about 11:1 on paper, and yes the weldfilled/skimmed head and k12 fire rings added :)
Click to expand...

Good to know, will have to write that down :) shamelessly plagiarising your work for my build if ya dont mind. Taken alot of inspiration from yourself and solarice :). Are the k12 rings strictly necessary? Also they a straight fit?
 
@frank @Low Rider

Reading the cam stuff (as GAs are the same setup with dowel slotting etc)
What would you be looking to do with them? And what's the effect? Bit vague I know. Cams are a grey area to me

Advance the inlet moves peak power up the powerband I have in my head
 
np mate :) and you have to cut the fire rings out, they have embossed rings that compress where needed, and they help to avoid the head gasket fire rings from expanding under pressure like this (see the bunched up fibre surround that has deformed as the ring shifted outwards)

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84759.jpg
 
h701micra said:
@frank @Low Rider

Reading the cam stuff (as GAs are the same setup with dowel slotting etc)
What would you be looking to do with them? And what's the effect? Bit vague I know. Cams are a grey area to me

Advance the inlet moves peak power up the powerband I have in my head
Click to expand...
i only advance my cams to account for the chain wear really andy, you can regain a lot of lost grunt
but i always check that the overlap at TDC is where it should be (factory specs of 42/0/0/42) :)
 
h701micra said:
Ta Frank :) I'll have a look into it
Click to expand...
you can advance them simply by removing the top chain and turning the engine 1 full turn actually (no need to file the dowels)
you are supposed to mount the CG at the top. so that that dot is at 12 o,clock, but if you turn it so that the cg is at the bottom, the cams are shifted about half a tooth, because those 2 sprockets in the pic have oddball number teeth, (23 and 36 teeth)

P1310455.JPG
 
frank said:
you can advance them simply by removing the top chain and turning the engine 1 full turn actually (no need to file the dowels)
you are supposed to mount the CG at the top. so that that dot is at 12 o,clock, but if you turn it so that the cg is at the bottom, the cams are shifted about half a tooth, because those 2 sprockets in the pic have oddball number teeth, (23 and 36 teeth)

View attachment 28201
Click to expand...
Clever stuff. I believe the GA setup is the same just with a different number of teeth on that sprocket :)
Worth advancing both cams?
 
h701micra said:
Clever stuff. I believe the GA setup is the same just with a different number of teeth on that sprocket :)
Worth advancing both cams?
Click to expand...
best to check where yours are first eh, i always turn the engine and check when the bucket is free to rotate nowadays (the point that all 4 lobes makes contact with their buckets at TDC) on cyl 1 and also crosschecked on cyl 4 too :)
 
Dinky DK said:
So you cut them out of the k12 but how are they fitted to the cg? Above, below or instead of k11 fire rings?
Click to expand...
yes the k12 gasket is a 2 skin multi layer steel jobbie (mls) so you cut the top or bottom skin and leave those stumps that are hanging down (for location around the cylinders/jackets)
then fit the stock gasket ontop, they are 20 thou uncompressed, and 10 thou when compressed (so very thin) :)
 
frank said:
yes the k12 gasket is a 2 skin multi layer steel jobbie (mls) so you cut the top or bottom skin and leave those stumps that are hanging down (for location around the cylinders/jackets)
then fit the stock gasket ontop, they are 20 thou uncompressed, and 10 thou when compressed (so very thin) :)
Click to expand...

Very handy mate, never would have thought of something like that. Your a clever fella
 
frank said:
best to check where yours are first eh, i always turn the engine and check when the bucket is free to rotate nowadays (the point that all 4 lobes makes contact with their buckets at TDC) on cyl 1 and also crosschecked on cyl 4 too :)
Click to expand...
I'll give it a go tomorrow and see what I find :) I've got the 'should-be' cam timing spec and the spec given to me by the chap who reground my cams

Can go from there and see what's what.

(That quad cam impreza engine would be entertaining)
 
nearly didnt start when i got in it this morning :O it made a big burbling noise, revved higher than usual then back to normal, think its where i normally have it parking inwards towards the garage away from the wind and whatever and this time i parked the other way around and alot of water gets into the grille where it hasnt got anything covering it and makes weird noises when it gets very wet. probably completely wrong though haha, only does it when turned around though D:
 
Fit the minilites today! :D

Not really perfect as i need to work on the arch at the front a bit more..

1620636_10201458065074680_144817672_n.jpg


1620780_10201458228078755_2072411257_n.jpg



As a temp measure i tired to sort the rear arches with white gaffa tape untill i get some Mk3 Golf trims

(It was jacked up still at this point)

1517656_10201458365402188_726608234_n.jpg



And this is the finished result-ish!!


1796644_10201459268744771_1942005457_n.jpg


Havnt driven it hard yet so dont 100% know if its catching, but did seem fine around the block!

Working on it more tomorrow hopefully :)
 
*cough*
1391367459764.jpg

How did that get there? ;)
Wdidt? Lowered my car 140mm at front and 75mm at back. Then realised it looked daft, I couldn't turn the wheels and couldn't get off the jack... so raised it to -80 at the front.
Also got the engine out of the almera and its now at my mates. So literally all I'm waiting on is this water pump... oh and engine alterations :)
 
Spent a few hours round Mr MicraPRO's while he fitted a luvverly rear spoiler...needs a bit of a tweak to get it in position but that's only because my Micra is an evil wonky-booted awkward b'stard...

I can already notice the difference in power...must be an extra 300bhp or so...

Sent from my RM-892_eu_euro1_205 using Tapatalk
 
met up with mr christopher to go look at a civic that the bloke sold before we got there -.- then went on a big cruise and got some pictures and hijinx videos, 1.3 rinses 1L hahaha, so much louder and faster too, makes me want a 1.3 so bad!
 
Magpie42 said:
Speaking of sorcery...that paint is expensive!





Sent from my RM-892_eu_euro1_205 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
fixed :D
WDIDT (post for reference really) removed the wishbones from the red car (for testing stuff ;))
had to cut the seized bolt from the o/s one, so here,s the pics of how to remove it in 5 mins when that happens
1mm slitting disc from below, then drive a wedge in to ease the thread out of the hole

P2030477.JPG
P2030479.JPG
 
Had a think about my front suspension setup and decided I needed something to lock my topnut in place, as I realised the double thrust bearings makes it potentially quite easy for the nut to wind off, so a dab of loctite applied and done up with an impact gun. Also gave the topmount bush a wiggle with a screwdriver and theres almost no play, but still articulates angularly well so pretty happy with that :)
 
Enuo said:
Had a think about my front suspension setup and decided I needed something to lock my topnut in place, as I realised the double thrust bearings makes it potentially quite easy for the nut to wind off, so a dab of loctite applied and done up with an impact gun. Also gave the topmount bush a wiggle with a screwdriver and theres almost no play, but still articulates angularly well so pretty happy with that :)
Click to expand...
sounds good andy :) twill be interesting to see how your setup fairs over time
also WDIDT ?
drifted the bushes out of the wishbones with a socket

P2030488.JPG
P2030485.JPG
 
Enuo said:
Ooo, making your own polybushes or going to be daring and use something a bit less forgiving? (I've used nylon for my panhard rod but obviously no flex requirement there...)
Click to expand...
sort of andy :) and do you get any road noise from the non-isolated p/rod ?
 

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