Does anyone know if there is a removable rubber in the rear spring housings top or bottom as ive ive been told it can be removed to achieve even more of a drop when lowering springs are fitted? the spring seat in a metal housing thats above but i was told there is a rubber in between the spring and the housing that can be removed. Myabe you've done this before , any info gratefully appreciatiated, thx
rear spring housings
- Thread starter k11man!
- Start date
Manny
Ex. Club Member
but is it safe to remove it?
frank
Club Member
i think its only there for noise reduction manny :grinning:
If you want to go lower fit lower springs, Matt Humphris stocks a whole range of lowering springs of varying heights. Removing the rubbers makes for additional rear suspension noise btw.
Also you want to make sure the spring is still captive when the suspension is at full extension.........dropping a spring over a bridge or hard corner is not clever.....something over happy cutting could result in, in addition of the MOT inspector spying it, (although in my experience this is rarely the case).
Also you want to make sure the spring is still captive when the suspension is at full extension.........dropping a spring over a bridge or hard corner is not clever.....something over happy cutting could result in, in addition of the MOT inspector spying it, (although in my experience this is rarely the case).
micras69
Deactivated Account
ok thats your vew. mine have been through a MOT and many members have removed 1/2 a coil or more to leval the back with the front and also how is the tester to know if they have been cut short? the spring is sat in the rubbers of the housing, just dont go wild with a grinder and make a clean cut.
but if you bothered about cuting a spring and it being classed as broken...why remove the rubber? its there for a reason. at the end of the day bud if you want the car to sit lower buy lowering springs that lower more or buy coilovers....simple
ollyc98
Ex. Club Member
I wouldn't try and argue with them mate, there are two types of people on this forum, people that do dangerous modifications and people that spend a little more to do a proper safe job.
Lowering springs are £70, cheap when you consider that insurance might not pay out if your cut springs cause an accident.
I'd get some sports springs, they are lower and stiffer and make the car corner level.
Lowering springs generally do only 1 thing, lower the car. Sometimes they're harder too which makes the car corner flatter at a cost to ride comfort. You pays yer money and takes yer pick as they say, you won't get to know what you've bought 'cos the manufacturers normally won't tell you, even when asked. Cars generally do pass mot's with mildly cut springs, mine do. A cut spring is both lower AND harder, which is what most people generally want. And unless the cut springs part company from the mountings (which is too easy to do on the back of a micra) they are usually safe. Best bet if you don't know what your doing or cant get expert help is to buy a set, £90 gives you a choice of brands and pretty colours too. Removal of the rubbers will lower the car and it wont drop a spring but there's no point 'cos you can't drop the front to match. Don't faf around with 30mm drop, go straight for 50 or 60 it's only the length of your finger and it won't spoil the cars capabilities on the rough - even the rally micras run well below stock ride height.
HOLD IT!
If the spring has been modified in way that may cause it to fall out or interfere with the operation of the suspension or steering its a fail.
If the spring is visibly fractured (rather than neatly cut) its a fail.
Cutting your springs is not an MOT fail unless you cut too much off and you cut it neatly so the end locates in the same place.
Thats what the MOT manual says (I know, I checked before I typed this, LOL)
If the spring has been modified in way that may cause it to fall out or interfere with the operation of the suspension or steering its a fail.
If the spring is visibly fractured (rather than neatly cut) its a fail.
Cutting your springs is not an MOT fail unless you cut too much off and you cut it neatly so the end locates in the same place.
Thats what the MOT manual says (I know, I checked before I typed this, LOL)
ollyc98
Ex. Club Member
Cutting springs may pass an MOT but it's still a pikey way of doing it. It changes the position of the spring in the seat, normal springs flatten off at the ends and cut springs don't. You can't tell me it's safe cos it just isn't. Also when you cut it the metal gets hot and there's more chance of snapping.
If you do things properly you KNOW it will be safe, better than just hoping for the best.
If you do things properly you KNOW it will be safe, better than just hoping for the best.
micras69
Deactivated Account
its this whole spring thing agen, if its done the correct way and dont go wild its fine its just knowing the limits and if its a HUGE no no how can they show on national tv spings being cut and used on a car?
and all this heating the spring naf....the metal needs to be orange hot before it starts to affect the spring in any way shape or form! when cutting springs should be done with some form of saw/blade but 3 seconds with the grinder isnt going to cause the metal to heat up that much. as for the spring snaping? it will only do that if its brittal and you've got to be a mug to use a crap spring.
and all this heating the spring naf....the metal needs to be orange hot before it starts to affect the spring in any way shape or form! when cutting springs should be done with some form of saw/blade but 3 seconds with the grinder isnt going to cause the metal to heat up that much. as for the spring snaping? it will only do that if its brittal and you've got to be a mug to use a crap spring.
i have to agree with olly its not the right way to do it, it may be cheaper and easy to do but its not the safest. If theres any chance of an mot fail or insurance not paying out is it really worth it?? There not the most expensive things in the world and when propperly are safe and look good id just buy some its the best way imo
but handels crapInteresting point that about the handling suffering because the car is lowered. I can concurr. There is too much droop travel when the car sits lower. This has the effect of permitting more body roll and more severe pitching motion, under braking for example. The only way I can see to rectify this is a set of shorter dampers (as they are the downward travel limiters). There are shortcuts but they usually only get part of the desired result. You just can't beat getting the right stuff in the first place.
