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Porks bike carbs and boost project

If it's wrong you owe me a pack of bourbons for calling me an amateur :p
Fine, if it goes the other way when I'm right. I once spent a week straight making readable engineering drawings of railway wagon brake components from badly photocopied engineering drawings we got from the National Railway Museum in york... I got a lot of practice reading tiny, pixelated writing :p
 
Need a fith gear!!

It's all well and good having the acceleration to put people to shame, it's no fun running out of puff top end

Should I try source a 5speed ma12 box (bolts straight on, no modding gear linkage)

Or is a cg10 5 speed better ?


A bit late but my MA12 box in the K10 with a CG is really high geared. 90 in 3rd :/ I know you have more power but it's wayy to high for me!
 
Was in work

You phoned up Nissan pork they can check against the reg

Put in th9 and checked it against the colour chip and I must say it looked fairly similar to your paint colour


Says purplish-blue but its more blue tbh
 
Well that was scary !!!

Having a drive about, moving along at quite some speed, go to use brakes and there's nothing !
No resistance in the pedal, foot straight to the floor
What's happened? Lucky no one was on roads at this time!!
 
Cheers people..... Bit stuck where I am with no tools , wet floors and **** lol

Gunna have to drive slow and use handbrake to get me home :(
 
If a servo goes you still get brakes but they will be harder to press, no resistance means either no fluid or the seals in the master cylinder.

As above check for leaks first.
 
Topped up with fluid, all fine and solid again

Il investigate later. :)

There's a lot of gearbox oil over the gearbox too , looks like it's coming out if the breather pipe , have I topped it up to much ? Thought it's meant to go to the bottom of the speedo drive ?

Hope I get my box of exhaust parts tomorow !
 
Also been looking at boost controllers.

Are manual ones any good , cheap eBay ones ?

look simple enough to make, but materials and effort cost more than it is to buy one made
 
Also been looking at boost controllers.

Are manual ones any good , cheap eBay ones ?

look simple enough to make, but materials and effort cost more than it is to buy one made
Try teeing off a flow valve venting to atmosphere from the boost line to the wastegate actuator, you'll have one lying around am sure :D
 
Oh dam!

Where's the level then?
There's normally a square drive plug 1/2 way up the gearbox... that's your fill line

Only picture I have to show you
1387113995439.jpg
 
Topped up with fluid, all fine and solid again

Il investigate later. :)

There's a lot of gearbox oil over the gearbox too , looks like it's coming out if the breather pipe , have I topped it up to much ? Thought it's meant to go to the bottom of the speedo drive ?

Hope I get my box of exhaust parts tomorow !
just above the plastic cog eh neil, and my boost controller is a ghetto ball and spring jobbie (2 x 1/4 bsp fittings) :)
 
just above the plastic cog eh neil, and my boost controller is a ghetto ball and spring jobbie (2 x 1/4 bsp fittings) :)


That's where I've filled it too

The little breather pipe cap is bit wobbly on there, can I just crimp it on a bit more?

Got any pics mate, jus so I can see how you made it......:)
 
we dont have a filler plug on our rs5f41 type g/boxes eh neil, speedo drive filling only, and here,s mine:) they work perfect
i also have a tiny bleed hole so that the pressure cant slowly build up

P7210232.JPG
 
we dont have a filler plug on our rs5f41 type g/boxes eh neil, speedo drive filling only, and here,s mine:) they work perfect
i also have a tiny bleed hole so that the pressure cant slowly build up

View attachment 26694

Nice use of pcl coupling fittings ;)

Cool, should be able to knock something similar up.


Beings fittings are quite easily available to me, I was thinking of using a adjustable pressure switch and 12v solenoid valve....question is, does the actuator have to be opened slowly with boost, or can I jus open on/off
 
if you fit a bike pump and gauge to your actuator, you will see the rod start to move with only a couple of psi neil, (and slowly extend as you apply more pressure)
you need the rod to stay still till the desired boost level, and then open as needed.
so the ball and spring holds the pressure back till the w/g needs to open.
here is the thin wd40 straw that vents off any pressure that leaks past the ball :)

PC150219.JPG
PC150218.JPG
 
if you fit a bike pump and gauge to your actuator, you will see the rod start to move with only a couple of psi neil, (and slowly extend as you apply more pressure)
you need the rod to stay still till the desired boost level, and then open as needed.
so the ball and spring holds the pressure back till the w/g needs to open.
here is the thin wd40 straw that vents off any pressure that leaks past the ball :)

View attachment 26695View attachment 26696

Cool! Nice one for g/box pic too.

Think I may have over filled a tiny bit lol
 
the preload on the actuating rod will have an effect too eh neil, i usually set mine with about 3 turns (half the hole) :)
and mine has a bit of negative boost creep too, it shoots to 8psi then drops to bang-on 7 all the way to the limiter
 
Where I've rotated my turbo, I've had to make new brackets for the actuator, there's a bit of flex in those brackets......so when the engines on full load, is there enough force on that wastegate penny to move the flex that's in the brackets, essentially opening up the wastegate sooner the the actuator?
if you understand me lol

Basically should those brackets be rock solid, or am I worrying about nothing?
 
Didn't say to skip it, said to check for leaks first.

I'm more than aware of the importance of the braking system, I've had my brakes completely fail on the entrance to a sharp corner at 60+mph its not fun at all.
Wasn't openly saying you said to skip it but I put it up there for reference.

I'm just poor at wording things :p
 
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