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Porks bike carbs and boost project

Jus make sure surfaces are clean (paint n stuff) no gaps, plent off penetration (giggedy) as seen from other side.
I went overkill on the mount and welded everything I could, looks pretty ugly, wire feed was playing up again, but to me it looks secure enough, time will tell,
 
Primed

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1368361973.121438.jpg
 
Il make the turbo manifold, better 421 design I've seen

Il get a bogg bros inlet one again, I can make a simple one for n/a carbs, but when boosted it'll pop off unless you use the proper clamps that come with the carbs, plus the cg head has funny shape ports that I can't copy
 
Hope so, things gunna be tight next month or 2 as I'm on holiday. Really wanted things ready for a show, but no chance now
 
I've scrapped the block, but the head is fine, £60 posted sound ok? Cost me that before postage when I bought it, since then I've rebuilt it and spent hours lapping in the valves so its decent
 
He said he"ll think about it , but at that price id like it myself :p ma12 head would have different cams and all so would that leave you with the power an ma12 puts out ? Probably a stupid question but just to clarify ?
 
Wait never mind iv just thought that through, bore size makes the difference innit? Just goes to show how little i know , still only learning off you lot , at least yer not a pack of hounds like on other forums
 
Still fits, works fine on mine, has the better inlet port (no swirl cast, although some people say that helps with atomisation of the fuel)

Had some pics somewhere off the two different ports, there's a thread somewhere too weighing up the pros and cons off both heads,

Think the conclusion was the ma12 head is better than the ma10, due to the ports, and a good skimming to raise compression
 
It will be considered but i better keep my pennies untill i finish my exams and get some work , i still have to tax/insure/test .... The joys of being 18 :/ rip off insurance , anyways ill let you know about that other guy if he wants to take it whenever he tells me,
 
This is what it looks like under the cover.
Pretty clean, looks well looked after.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1368549821.540575.jpg


Question, as I've never worked on a cg before, what's process off removing the head? Tools etc?
Really don't wanna mess this one up
 
end cover off, then 22mm sprocket bolts, then let the chain drop, then 17mm idler bolt, then 10mm cam caps, then 10mm (allenkey) headbolts, then 5 x 10mm outer head bolts neil :)
 
Before I get hammer happy, the engines off the gearbox, so if I turn sprocket 22mm bolts, the engine turns, is the a safe way off locking it so I can undo them?
 
Cool, so, I wanna strip it all down, good clean up,

What things should be replaced beings it's all being dismantled?
 
Cool, so, I wanna strip it all down, good clean up,

What things should be replaced beings it's all being dismantled?
check condition first eh neil (lookin good so far mate :) ) and check your ring gaps (especially the oil control ones)
i find that you need about 4 kg of drag on them for a good seal,( and no oil consumption ).
i fit the piston in upside down with just the oil rings to test them, and if its too loose i stretch the expander ring (so that there is no gap (gap shown below )

P5151030.JPG
 
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