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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
13:58 Run 5 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Before:
Setup:
Dampers: 20/20 F/R
Tyres: 595RSR 2.3/2.6bar F/R
Weight: 100% fuel, driver only​

During:
Track Condition: dry
Brake Bias: 50/50% F/R

increase front pressure & reduce rear pressure to reduce oversteer
reset brake bias to 50/50%


Track Times: (Gearing through Twickers, Jochen, Wiggler, Port Froids, Ushers, Twickers)
red lap times = traffic

lap 1 - 1:25 (3, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 3)
lap 2 - 1:23 (3, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 2) brake's upto temp at bishop
lap 3 - 1.22 (2, 3, 2, 4 lifted, 2, 2)
lap 4 - 1:22 (2, 3, 2, 4 lifted, 3, 3)


wasn't happy with this leaking sound, was reving the engine to see if the turbo is producing boost and where the leak is, could hear the induction noise from the air filter but then I saw a mist of exhaust coming from the manifold (manifold gasket? cracked flange?)

IMAG2366.jpg


looked further and found that the nut & bolt at the back of the turbo flange has once again vibrated off and applowed the gasket to leak :rolleyes:

IMAG2365.jpg


I thought that's it, I ain't got any spare nut bolts, so time to pack up home?

the bloke next to me said well there's a racing team trailer next to us who'll most prob have spares.
asked the guy if he had any m8 nuts, he found some ;) gr8 there's hope.
engine still scalding hot so waited awhile to cool, then I attempt to fit the nut to the remaining stud in the MOST awquid tight space of that damn manifold with zero room to move any spanner.

it took so many attempts and had to mod a tool but managed to get it on

while I was fixing, the guys daughter Nikki, who I saw drive their racing civic with other drivers, popped over for a quick chat curious bout the car. I think whenever I blast kasandra round a track, it catches some ppls attention lol. Nikki was a really nice lass, sunglasses, tied hair, slight american accent, studying mech engineering where they get to design, build & race their own formula, I'm impressed but sense myself blabbering on bout my experience with kasandra, I'm so bad round women tehee.
anyway she headed off to spectate n said she'll look out for me.

IMAG2368.jpg


15:52 Run 6 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Before:
Setup:
Dampers: 20/20 F/R
Tyres: 595RSR 2.3/2.6bar F/R
Weight: 100% fuel, driver only​

During:
Track Condition: dry
Brake Bias: 50/50% F/R


Track Feedback:
  • rebolted turbo flange was still leaking & hissing but the restored exhaust pressure had improved the times
  • handling felt good
  • slight power understeer when changing direction at high speed
Track Times: (Gearing through Twickers, Jochen, Wiggler, Port Froids, Ushers, Twickers)
red lap times = traffic

lap 1 - 1:25 (3, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 2)
lap 2 - 1:19 (2, 3, 2, 4 lifted, 3, 2) brake's upto temp at bishop
lap 3 - 1.20 (2, 3, 2, 4 lifted, 2, 2)
lap 4 - 1:18 (2, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 2)
lap 5 - 1:21 (2, 3, 2, 4 lifted, 2, 2)
lap 6 - 1:18 (2, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 3)


16:12 Run 7 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Before:
Setup:
Dampers: 15/20 F/R
Tyres: 595RSR 2.3/2.6bar F/R
Weight: 100% fuel, driver only​

During:
Track Condition: dry
Brake Bias: 50/50% F/R


Track Feedback:
  • rebolted turbo flange was still leaking & hissing but the restored exhaust pressure had improved the times
  • handling felt good and consistant
Track Times: (Gearing through Twickers, Jochen, Wiggler, Port Froids, Ushers, Twickers)
red lap times = traffic

lap 1 - 1:20 (3, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 3)
lap 2 - 1:19 (3, 3, 3, 4 WOT, 3, 3) brake's upto temp at bishop
lap 3 - 1.19 (3, 3, 3, 4 WOT, 3, 3)
lap 4 - 1:19 (3, 3, 3, 4 lifted, 3, 3)

Evaluation

comparing few of my fastest laps. I wonder if this is what the stigs chinese cousin prefers to watch as daytime tv? :)


after evaluating my fastest lap time of 1:18
  • exiting Twickers in 2nd gear instead of keeping in 3rd had the best acceleration for the straights
  • stay in 3rd gear through Wiggler so I utilise the mid power band and don't waste time upshifting down the straights
  • stay in 3rd at Ushers so I don't hit the limiter, which slowed me down when I was in 2nd gear
  • the turbo flange exhaust leak after the nut vibrated off between 10am - 2pm had cost me 1sec in lap time
  • fuel weight didn't influence lap times much but reduced inner rear wheel lift with more weight at the back
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Drivers drive shaft is bent and you're in desperate need of roll centre adjusters....
Looks cool though....

drive shaft's not bent at all, it's the rubbish soft CV boot that's crooked, mounted misaligned & prob got a slosh of grease on one side that's unbalancing it and flopping about. will replace it with a new stiffer one hopefully soon.

what's roll centre adjusters?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
That's great, loads of pretty cars around that are rotting away underneath. Lass? Are you from the north east too?

aye the usual metal rot from poor water drainage & rust proofing is a major killer for these cars.

yup from NE, does my accent give it away? :p
 

Antony

Ex. Club Member
No not the cv joint. There's a definite wobble to the shaft.

Roll centre adjusters increase the height of the bottom ball joint, effectively lowering the lower arms so they point downward when the car is sat neutral.
Thus when the suspension is compressed, the arc of the hub in relation to the horizontal axis of the car must be wider initially before sweeping inwards towards the car.
On lowered cars without these, the horizontal line through the hubs is already above the wishbone inner pivot point, and so when you corner, the effective track of the car is being reduced as the hub is already on the upper part of a parabolic trajectory.

F1 cars have this principal down to the nth degree, the main reason for their suspension arms to point up from the hubs.

The other thing they need are longer track rod ends to avoid bump steer once the lower arm is dropped.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
No not the cv joint. There's a definite wobble to the shaft.

Roll centre adjusters increase the height of the bottom ball joint, effectively lowering the lower arms so they point downward when the car is sat neutral.
Thus when the suspension is compressed, the arc of the hub in relation to the horizontal axis of the car must be wider initially before sweeping inwards towards the car.
On lowered cars without these, the horizontal line through the hubs is already above the wishbone inner pivot point, and so when you corner, the effective track of the car is being reduced as the hub is already on the upper part of a parabolic trajectory.

F1 cars have this principal down to the nth degree, the main reason for their suspension arms to point up from the hubs.

The other thing they need are longer track rod ends to avoid bump steer once the lower arm is dropped.

if u watch the sighting lap vid where I'm on a smoother "ish" tarmac than the bouncy rough public roads so the suspensions not moving around as much, I don't see any drive shaft fluttering around, I only see the drivers outer CV boot flopping about. it ain't causing any vibration issues. I'll replace the outer boot and recapture the footage.

ahh I've been wanting to extend the front hubs lower ball joint further down for awhile for that reason since my arms are literally resting flat horizontal on the road and on track will induce +ve camber. it's just time & money & resources to get some machined. the massive body roll tilting the tyre camber right over n wearing the outer loaded edges also doesn't help with uneven tread wear too.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yeah, could do with a tad more camber on the front eh?

my static camber is already at max 1.5-2deg -ve camber and on road it wears the inner tread slightly more
but on track the poor lower arms inducing +ve camber and the massive body roll tilting all the wheels over really ruins the tread wear and performance so lowering those front lower ball joints are the next simplest required mod to fix the roll centres but that's for another day after I sort my life out after germany, no more funds for any modding.
 

frank

Club Member
my static camber is already at max 1.5-2deg -ve camber and on road it wears the inner tread slightly more
but on track the poor lower arms inducing +ve camber and the massive body roll tilting all the wheels over really ruins the tread wear and performance so lowering those front lower ball joints are the next simplest required mod to fix the roll centres but that's for another day after I sort my life out after germany, no more funds for any modding.
more castor will give you more turn induced camber eh paul, it worked a treat on my senior ministock (where camber adjustment was banned) all my competitors understeered on the oval tracks and i just steamed up the inside of them :) and the scrutineers used to pick the front of my car up convinced i had a slip diff or something, but as long as i parked the car with the steering straight the camber did,nt show (but on full lock there was loads of camber)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
more castor will give you more turn induced camber eh paul, it worked a treat on my senior ministock (where camber adjustment was banned) all my competitors understeered on the oval tracks and i just steamed up the inside of them :) and the scrutineers used to pick the front of my car up convinced i had a slip diff or something, but as long as i parked the car with the steering straight the camber did,nt show (but on full lock there was loads of camber)

how do we increase castor, other than to fabricate a custom/adjustable lower arm like what H701 was working on to relocate the ball joint?
 

frank

Club Member
yeh, custom wishbones i guess paul, mine was an oldschool mini and i body-jigged the subfame into a diamond shape, which pulled the n/s tierod forward (for clockwise oval track)

pb_rhm_40683_lg.gif [
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Good efforts there, and you got going quickly after the spin :)

thanks matt :D
that big spin at port froids did knock abit of my confidence in her at that section for while, for some reason she was very oversteery through that corner that day compared to prev good days.

notice on my track time list bout my gearing that I kept lifting/hesitate in 4th through port froid cos couldn't trust that she'd hold it together.
I'd have to enter the right turn, lift off abit and gently switch to the left, when I predict she's settled and her trajectory will make the exit I then go WOT before the apex to power her through.

there's only a few times I tried going through it at WOT and she'd bite back with a hint of oversteer.

gee it sounds like I'm having one heck of a relationship with kasandra eh lol :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after blyton, the catchcan caught 112.5ml after 400m (282ml per 1000m)

DSC01218.JPG


boost can only caught tiny bit

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exhaust still leaking loudly so lets see what's going on

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the nut looking discoloured, ah tis cos the other nut has vibrated off again

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manifold off, gasket mostly sealed ok

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urm ahh well there's our problem, a whole section has fractured off.

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I think that when the nut & bolt originally fell off, it allowed the hot gasses to really heat up & fracture the gasket apart

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gonna have to figure out a way to better clamp the rear section of the flange, I'm thinking weld a nut to the turbo flange below and use a bolt on the manifold flange with locking washer

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a weak pin hole leak to fix

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new rear pads arrived. think it's best to replace both front & rear pads & T1R tyres before germany

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ordered a set of T1R on thurs and really early today the delivery guy arrived with em :)

IMAG2369.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
welded up the pin hole leak

DSC01239.JPG


and this inner corner too

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some of the weld was petruding inward so I grinded it smooth

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grinded the welds near the bolt hole so I can fit the bolt & washer on

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new turbo gaskets arrived

IMAG2370.jpg


the turbo elbow gasket still intact so gonna reuse this

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turbo removed

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with a better working catch can, the turbo compressor now stays clean oil free

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tacked some M8 nuts under the turbo housing flange

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now that looks more secure, no more fiddly nuts to install underneath

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also the bolt has no chance of vibrating fully off if the other allen bolts are still holding cos the bolt would be obstructed by the manifold above :cool:

DSC01251.JPG


having an icecream break before thinking of carrying on
 

MicraPRO

Part Of The Furniture
abit of poo may have shot out :D
I really REALLY don't need that to happen when I'm going at speed on the nurburgring :/
As said tho you got going pretty damn quickly again :)
When are you booked for the ring again? Can't wait to see some of the footage from Germany :)
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
As said tho you got going pretty damn quickly again :)
When are you booked for the ring again? Can't wait to see some of the footage from Germany :)

cheers tom. we just dust ourselves off and try again.

setting off over to germany on eurostar from 5am friday 31st july, back home by monday 3rd (completely shattered and whether in 1 piece or not)
 

MicraPRO

Part Of The Furniture
cheers tom. we just dust ourselves off and try again.

setting off over to germany on eurostar from 5am friday 31st july, back home by monday 3rd (completely shattered and whether in 1 piece or not)
Get back on the horse as they say :) you learn from your mistakes looks like Kasandra suffered like Millie did lift off oversteer but mine was in the ice and on a narrow road.
All fingers and toes crossed for you buddy!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Get back on the horse as they say :) you learn from your mistakes looks like Kasandra suffered like Millie did lift off oversteer but mine was in the ice and on a narrow road.
All fingers and toes crossed for you buddy!

wasn't her fault, twas mostly driver error, I was too confident too early and forced her into the s-bend, her inner wheel lifted and slipped and I couldn't pull her back (is it me or is it hard to write about car stuff without sounding full of sexually innuendos? :p or maybe tis our damn dirty minds hahaa)
 
how do we increase castor, other than to fabricate a custom/adjustable lower arm like what H701 was working on to relocate the ball joint?
You could probably do it the same way you change the camber, ie change where the strut mounts but this time you are dragging the strut mount towards the rear. I'm straining to remember but I think castor can change how the car reacts to initial turn in too (in theory)...
It also makes the wheel return to centre quicker(good for drifters and rally) and therefore the car may feel heavier/more feedback to steer but as frank said it's a way to get negative camber without some of the drawbacks.

@frank adjustable or shorter castor / tie bars were too obvious then?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You could probably do it the same way you change the camber, ie change where the strut mounts but this time you are dragging the strut mount towards the rear. I'm straining to remember but I think castor can change how the car reacts to initial turn in too (in theory)...
It also makes the wheel return to centre quicker(good for drifters and rally) and therefore the car may feel heavier/more feedback to steer but as frank said it's a way to get negative camber without some of the drawbacks.

@frank adjustable or shorter castor / tie bars were too obvious then?

either adjust castor via the top mounts or via the lower ball joint, both are not easy or affordable or quick.
moving the ball joint will require re-engineering the lower arm.
moving the top mount, not possible at the moment with the BC alloy camber plate since it's only grooved for static camber adjustment and there's not much room for adjusting it longitudinally for castor.

but trying to fix all this turning camber via castor etc is a secondary and more expensive tweak.

think our primary fix should be to resolve the major body roll in the first place.
first port of call are those lower arms which logic says is actually aiding in forcing the front end to roll over more when the loaded arm is pointing upwards.
if I can lower the hub ball joint, raising the roll centre closer to the front CoG, it may help reduce the roll.

then refine the spring & damper rates & swaybar rates. I sense the force is strong with suspension man H701 he is :cool::D

then we'll look at refining camber & caster during further tests.
gee the never ending joyous road of automotive R&D eh
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just been checking my tyre wear records and thought this might be useful info.

Toyo T1R used on the road wears at 0.3mm/1000miles
Toyo T1R used on the track wears at 1.15-1.46mm/1000miles!
Federal 595RSR used on the track wears at 0.6mm/1000miles

jeez thank god I now use the RSR on track cos the very soft T1R just shreds itself to pieces in no time :eek:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
began sanding the turbine flange, just look at how warped it was to begin with

DSC01258.JPG
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began sanding the manifold

DSC01260.JPG
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only had a limited amount of sand paper till they all went blunt and took ages to sand as flat as I can

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new gaskets

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bolting the back of the flange with locking washers

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special tool for accessing the tight space

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bolted up

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the turbo elbow is wayy too close to the alternator and short out

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so cut this section off the alternator back plate

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now it clears fine

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all assembled

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after a blast at blyton lets see if the cat is still intact

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yup it's all fine

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think I located the odd squeak. maybe tis these wooden blocks I stuffed in the exhaust hangers to stiffen em, which was rubbing on the chassis.
removed them and the squeaks gone

DSC01279.JPG
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
went for a test drive and the exhausts staying intact on boost, tis all good.
but the little squeak's still kinda there and after removing that wooden block from the mid-exhaust hanger, the downpipe is too close to the chassis and rattle against it.

got new cv boot, oil filter & sparks

IMAG2376.jpg


tried testing compression but oddly my gauge began leaking, tried swapping the tyre valve bit but still leaks. turned out to be the other end where the gauge screws onto the hose.

IMAG2373.jpg


old plugs nice n brown white

IMAG2374.jpg


the new bkr6e was at 0.8mm so I gapped em back to 1.1mm

IMAG2375.jpg


so here's the old floppy cv boot that was flapping about in the videos. for some reason it's gone all soft n mushy over the recent months

DSC01280.JPG


compared to the new one of similar make which feels all stiff & thick

DSC01281.JPG


cut the old boot off

DSC01282.JPG


fit the new boot on

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front pads going down abit. it's best I fit all new pads for the big trip to germany and keep these old pads as backup incase I run out of pad on the way back home

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fit the supplied flexible shims on the front pads, see if they help insulate the calipers from the pads heat as well as vibrations

DSC01286.JPG
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the old rear pads down to bout 4-5mm. fit the new ones that are 9mm thick

DSC01288.JPG


at night I went out to begin bedding in the new brakes. warm up with afew 50-20mph stops then afew 60-20mph hard left foot braking.
briefly stopped to retighten the front wheel nuts cos they're bound to loosen off in the heat.
went for another bedding run on the way back but then a sudden BANG!?
wth was that?
steering still straight and doesn't knock when I wiggle the steering so main suspensions fine.
it knocks when I go on/off power or brake, thinking maybe the rear engine mounts finally cracked off the gearbox? nope it looks intact.
brakes all look intact.

then I looked under the passenger side and oh ffs not again!

DSC01289.JPG


back in january the RH lower arm fractured off at a weak weld after a road bump , and now the opposite side has fractured off after tonights heavy braking.
these ebay arms are rubbish with a finite lifespan :rolleyes:

immediately ordered a new LH arm for next day. think when it arrives I'm gonna add more welds around that weak spot for both arms.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well it seems that adhesive brake pad shims are rubbish, they just melt off :rolleyes: off they come. pads now bedded on

DSC01290.JPG
DSC01291.JPG


one (or two) for H701. well there we go again, another horizontal fracture under braking. but just look at the rusted inner section, this arm has clearly been fracturing for awhile to form rust in the crack, possibly while I was going flat out at blyton, and it wasn't till last nights simple bedding in session that the remaining 3/4 couldn't take the strain and suddenly snapped under the hard braking strain

DSC01292.JPG


back in January the RH arm showed the same fracture beginning from the inner side
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-122#post-711705

dsc09940-jpg.39707


so on the LH arm the fracture started here on the inner side where the weld meets the round washer end

DSC01296.JPG


on the RH arm back in january it fractured on the inner side from where the weld ends

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fracture begins from the inner side mostly under braking due to these forces trying to snap the pins weakest point, the weld

lower arm force.jpg


removed both the broken LH arm and the newer RH arm from january

DSC01297.JPG

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notice the difference in build quality and how how piece are formed

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the newer RH bush still greased & moving freely while the older LH bush is seized onto the shaft.
I'm definately gonna finish stick welding the arm to the round washer end to fill those weak spot gaps

DSC01300.JPG


the rear bushings also different

DSC01301.JPG
DSC01302.JPG
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just checking the wear rate of these pads with these smooth oem discs.

new front pads = 9.6mm
new rear pads = 9mm
min front pad thickness = 3.6mm
min rear pad thickness = 4mm

19/05/15 @139,000mile
new front pads & discs

01/07/15 @141,000mile after Blyton park
FR = 7.55 inner/ 7.55 outer
FL = 7.55 inner/ 7.55 outer
RR = 7.00 inner / 7.00 outer
RL = 7.00 inner / 7.00 outer

15/07/15 @141,500mile after Blyton park & japshow
FR = 5.90 inner/ 5.85 outer
FL = 5.96 inner/ 6.10 outer
RR = 4.35 inner / 6.45 outer
RL = 6.35 inner / 6.25 outer

20/07/15
new front & rear pads
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Receive new LH arm

this morning received the new LH arm from the same ebay seller as the RH arm I brought in Jan, so surely it should be the same construction quality?

DSC01304.JPG


ah FFS nope this one's poorly built, just look at the massive gap waiting to fail

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unpainted section

DSC01306.JPG


this section looks different and left a gaping hole to catch water & rust

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gawd look at this silly big gap :rolleyes: unacceptable.
can't afford to mess about, I'm gonna have to rebuild or reinforce it

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Comparison

lets compare the RH january arm with the LH july arm

DSC01308.JPG


looking at the pattern moulding, the arm roughly looks identical except for this rear section where there's a wider gap to weld

DSC01311.JPG


the front bush on the RH is welded close & tight to the arm whereas the LH arm is welded loosely with a large gap

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comparing the geometry, if I line up the rear peg

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and the ball joint

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the front bush cylinder is about the same position

DSC01326.JPG


but the new LH pattern stamped arm looks like it wasn't fully aligned on the jig during welding, hence the gaps

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the front bush alignment of all the arms appear the same

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Removing PU bushes

the LH front bush was squeaking cos it was dry

DSC01319.JPG


whereas the RH bush was still greased n quiet

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Fix old broken arm

incase I ruin the new arm, lets fix the old arm just for fun and practice

removed the old rear bush

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grinded the faces flat

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and welded it all back stronger than before :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Reinforce new arms

now lets correct these new arms

cut the front bush casing off the arm

DSC01333.JPG


grinded the surfaces smooth

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removed the obsolete rubber bush

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when I yanked the bush casing off, the remaining weld had ripped a small hole so I welded that up

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shaped the arm to fit the casing snugly

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and welded it back on

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welded the front bit, blew a tiny hole but was fixed

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I was gonna tediously cut the whole rear peg out of the arm but was gonna be alot of work & could weaken it so instead I just bulk up the existing gaps with more welds.
my welds getting better with practice

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also welded up the RH arms rear peg too.
with this much bulking, there's hopefully no chance of it snapping again

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painted

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PU bushes & rear bushes all rubber greased & ready to fit :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
arms fitted, sway bar regreased

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restiffened the mid hangers lower down so the downpipe doesn't bang against the selector rods & chassis

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the recent dodgy RH dipped light was cos that bulb was blown. fitted my older non-blue bulbs

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the washer jets are abit meh, beginning to block up & not spray as well.
saw this at halfords n thought meh wth lets try em. they work gr8, much sharper stronger jet now :cool:

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new plugs now browned up nicely

IMAG2378.jpg


went for a drive.
she pulls nicely with no leaks and new CV boot is solid now.


still more little stuff to sort out and only got a week left :eek: but she's getting there :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Wow! Those arms look scary!!

Had a lucky escspe


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aye, thankfully the arm stayed connected via the front mount and the surrounding swaybar.
think the power & application of these pulsar brakes on trackdays are pushing the production qualities of these ebay copy parts to the limit (don't think these were originally made to withstand such abuse lol) but now with the welded refinements it should hold up better, fingers x
 

pork

Club Member
Still....bit of brown trouser time!! Lol

Makes me ponder on my eBay specials

In comparison, my lowly supercharged 'street' car won't see the kinda abuse yours does, but it doesn't fill me with much confidence


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Still....bit of brown trouser time!! Lol

Makes me ponder on my eBay specials

In comparison, my lowly supercharged 'street' car won't see the kinda abuse yours does, but it doesn't fill me with much confidence


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the loud bang when it fractures apart is quite startling.

I guess this sorta issue is to be expected with copy parts cos they're only good upto the original normal purpose but as soon as ur pushing wayyy! beyond the intended spec, things start to break, at which point I'd have to either re-engineer or upgrade.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Still....bit of brown trouser time!! Lol

Makes me ponder on my eBay specials

In comparison, my lowly supercharged 'street' car won't see the kinda abuse yours does, but it doesn't fill me with much confidence


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Try driving one of longest stages of Wales Rally GB and a spectator special and then 100+ road miles back to service with your NSF wishbone like this....
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
It's a poor cast bar of cheap quality. Despite welding I suspect it'll fail again

Still on the tubular wishbones. Seem to be getting popular

aye looks like brittle quality steel from the fracture. it just has to survive the trip to nurburg, tis all that matters at the mo.

how did ya get on with developing those arms?

btw looking at the blyton park vids, the k11 front pelvis section for the lower arms is a very floppy structure, even with a lower single brace. ideally it should be an X-brace between the front bush mounts and the front swaybar mount to stop it flexing under huge cornering & braking loads.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday I resoldered a loose alternator wire, secured some camera usb cables, and taped some heatshield behind the boost catch can so the radiator doesn't heat it up

IMAG2379.jpg
IMAG2380.jpg
IMAG2383.jpg


since I have a new set of T1R to fit before the trip and the current set is only down to 2.3 - 3mm it needs wearing down. thought I'd use the time to try out afew cheeky burnouts & see if she's ready for the trip :p


at 5:11 went to the countryside and did a brief burn. lsd locking em both nicely and can see the tread rapidly heating & turning matt, Mmm smell of burnt rubber inside

6:20 did a wheel spinning launch, 0-60 bout 8s

7:35 did another rolling launch joining the A road, 0-60 bout 7s

now it's dark gonna readjust the lights
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
removed her old tyres tday, still some meat left on em

IMAG2384.jpg


new thick rubber fitted. drove down motorway and with 4 equal tyres she cruises so straight with zero drifting and tis abit quieter :cool: just have to corner balance & realign the steering angles

IMAG2385.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
test drive new tyres from yesterday.
saw an overturned pickup @14:15
and encountered a big farm vehicle in the countryside @17:55
trying WOT with new greasy tyres in the rain @18:30 obviously had minimal traction :p

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
all the printed markings on my ratchet spanners has rubbed off so tis very hard to spot their size.
so I just engraved the numbers with a dremel :cool:

DSC01362.JPG


tday is the long task of corner balancing & aligning the suspension

DSC01363.JPG


so the initial conditions are 50% fuel, all tyres brand new equal tread depths set at 3 bars, sway bars removed.

placed the car on the scales and log the initial balance.
I bounce each corner, recording the load on all 4 scales & rim-arch gap then calc the average.

FL 279.3kg 103mm / FR 285.5kg 105mm
RL 175.7kg 102mm / RR 177.3kg 103mm

the FR is the heaviest & highest corner

Screenshot_2015-07-26-16-31-54.png


I reduced the FR preload and it looks better

FL 281.5kg 103mm / FR 283.6kg 104mm
RL 173.6kg 102mm / RR 179.4kg 105mm

Screenshot_2015-07-26-17-05-42.png


then I re-aligned the wheels.
rear axle was pointing slightly right so corrected it.
front camber -1.75deg
and set dead straight with zero toe.
rear swaybar mount was seized, may have made the inner rear wheel lift up on track, so regreased the swaybars.

went out for a test drive and oh my this is so nice, the steering pointing is perfectly straight and has zero drift on flat roads :D
car is now all set.
just have to sort out my equipment for the trip.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my old 75w inverter for powering the laptop always interferes with the consult cable making datascan/nistune freeze up, thinking perhaps the unstable underpowered power supply messing up the laptop signals?

so brought this 300w unit for £30 in maplin

DSC01364.JPG


was gonna place it under the passenger seat but then figured I'll be drilling towards fuel/brake lines there, no good idea :p

DSC01365.JPG


so place it under the driver instead, drills mounting holes

DSC01366.JPG


cba with brackets & bolts, cable tie ftw
it also has a handy usb charger slot, which I'll then connect to charge the usb power pack buffer that powers all the cameras. 2 birds with 1 stone.

DSC01367.JPG


plugged it all up and it mostly works.
when the power feed to the inverter is a steady 12 or 14v it powers the laptop fine without freezing the consult but the moment I crank the car for 1sec, this cuts the aux cig lighter which upsets the inverter and laptop which then causes the consult to freeze.

ain't connecting the unit directly to the battery cos I'll forget & drain all the power overnight.

if I want to record a datalog, it'll have to be whilst the cars running.

so it's Wed, the car is all as ready as she can be, all my documents ready, just have to pack my clothes, tools, tent, fluids, many spares and we'll be setting off thursday lunch for the 5-6hr trip to ashford hotel before we begin the trip next Early morning. Eeey so exciting :D

then I'll obviously be offline for awhile till I'm back home whether in 1 piece or not :confused::p
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Have fun out there, just don't bin it a) for you and the car and b) it bloody expensive when they collect you off the track...!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Have fun out there, just don't bin it a) for you and the car and b) it bloody expensive when they collect you off the track...!

aye I can't afford to on zero income and rapidly deminishing savings :/
have to be conservative well within my limits at all times on this unforgiving track unlike on UK trackdays
 
my old 75w inverter for powering the laptop always interferes with the consult cable making datascan/nistune freeze up, thinking perhaps the unstable underpowered power supply messing up the laptop signals?

so brought this 300w unit for £30 in maplin

View attachment 43973

was gonna place it under the passenger seat but then figured I'll be drilling towards fuel/brake lines there, no good idea :p

View attachment 43974

so place it under the driver instead, drills mounting holes

View attachment 43975

cba with brackets & bolts, cable tie ftw
it also has a handy usb charger slot, which I'll then connect to charge the usb power pack buffer that powers all the cameras. 2 birds with 1 stone.

View attachment 43972

plugged it all up and it mostly works.
when the power feed to the inverter is a steady 12 or 14v it powers the laptop fine without freezing the consult but the moment I crank the car for 1sec, this cuts the aux cig lighter which upsets the inverter and laptop which then causes the consult to freeze.

ain't connecting the unit directly to the battery cos I'll forget & drain all the power overnight.

if I want to record a datalog, it'll have to be whilst the cars running.

so it's Wed, the car is all as ready as she can be, all my documents ready, just have to pack my clothes, tools, tent, fluids, many spares and we'll be setting off thursday lunch for the 5-6hr trip to ashford hotel before we begin the trip next Early morning. Eeey so exciting :D

then I'll obviously be offline for awhile till I'm back home whether in 1 piece or not :confused::p

I use these to delay the power up whilst starting my engine.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=311084409111&alt=web
Ive got it set for 10 seconds before it applies power to my camera and external temp sensor.
 
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