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PollyMobiles Rebuild

I can't wait either. same one?
heard some ppl saying cos they're under administration, orders took ages or never arrived.
although I've been emailed that mines already been despatched and due arrive tomorrow. prob cos this was a clearance website they wanna sell this stuff off asap. fine by me, long as I get all the bits n working :cool:
can't wait to start designing n making plastic bits for the car n stuff
Slightly different one, if I'd of known I could of got one that cheap I would have.

Ah well.... still be fun to make things :D
First project for you?
Mines a mold for fibreglass parts
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Slightly different one, if I'd of known I could of got one that cheap I would have.

Ah well.... still be fun to make things :D
First project for you?
Mines a mold for fibreglass parts

definately fun to be able to make things at home.

was so excited when it arrived, took 6-7hrs till sill'o'clock to build & run cos there were afew design errors I had to dremel :p
needed alot of fiddling to get working right and afew design flaws but tis gr8.

my first project would be to print a pair of caps to go over the coilover tops to stop all the muck building up into the pillowball n ruining them.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
last week was disassembling the non-abs MS to clean & inspect

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vacuum booster servo ID

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take apart the pedal end

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MS unbolts from the servo

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removing the reservoir off the MS was an absolute PITA, had to pull/yank & pry it off with a big screwdriver, thought I was gonna bend & deform/break the nozzle off the bottom

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removing the front rubber reservoir seal was easy but the rear was stuck for a reason, turns out that ur suppose to remove the yellow plastic nozzle end beforehand

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this yellow plastic cover seemed to be clipped on but whilst pushing the clips inwards, it won't budge out? don't wanna pry it off n damage it.
anyone got an idea or done it before?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
last few days been exciting. received my new Makibox 3D printer :D:D

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there were afew design/construction errors but quick dremel fixed that. took over 6hrs to carefully build neatly.

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hook up to laptop and 1-2hrs of initial setup/calibration

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first uncalibrated untuned print was abit wobbly rough, all the linkages n joints need more tweaking

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this is the mount for the extruder hot tip and the screw just basically goes into the plastic hole and it's cracked. cos the more solid metal bracket is just underneath, I drilled the hole through and stuck a longer screw down into the metal rather than plastic. tis much stronger/stiffer now and reduces wobbling

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the design office. lets make some dust covers for the coilovers

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evolution of the designs

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the first design was gonna slip down inside the hole and the little tabs wedges it

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but it was slightly too big and with the straight walls, couldn't account for varying hole diameters.

next design is tapered to wedge inside the hole

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but the wedge was too steep so couldn't stay in place.

instead lets make it oversized to fit around the outside of the hole and include these small bumps to take up the slack

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first run had a single wall thickness and a stop/start stepping build up but this caused a major defect u see at the back where it lays the next layer plus a single wall was too thin. when I test fit it, the weak thin strands split apart

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a double thickness wall stiffens it but afew settings still needed tuning to improve the print quality

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this time I got the settings just right and extruded the walls in a single spiral strand method rather than a stop/start stepping mathod, and this vastly improved the smooth quality of the walls

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video of the prints


fits nicely over the hole :)

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Awesome!!

Want one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

they're selling em off in clearance at this site
http://www.makiboxclearance.co.uk/

mine's the £250 HT version with heated bed to print high temp ABS & low temp PLA plastics.
the £200 LT unheated version can only print PLA plastics.
be warned it takes some detailed technical fiddling to get it running correctly, but when it works spot on it's brill

The video sounds like some insane gabba track


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

whenever it prints large circles it sounds like an air raid siren lol
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
gr8 minds think alike.

after finishing the coilover caps, I thought about printing some plastic clips to replace the broken HT lead holders but had problems printing cos the tensioner wheel for the filament feeder motor had cracked so it kept slipping and no feed, a silly cheap design.

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tried stuffing some rubber inbetween the spokes to stiffen it but was too soft and still slipped

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need to apply something that that was firm but not rock solid. didn't have a glue gun but the nearest fix at 11pm is the printers extruder itself. placed the wheel under the tip and manually pushed the plastic in all the spokes

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dremelled it flat

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nope, now it's wayy too solid stiff and chewing up the filament.

bah, so I'll need to completely redesign the filament feed mechanism :oops:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after measuring n modelling these bits

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it took all night to design this mechanism to fit in the existing tight space without much change

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reusing the old wheel cos it's thin & large whereas a bearing & bolt would be too thick.

just have to make the support frame (green) out of plastic or wood and the swing arm (orange) from sheet steel
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made the support frame and swing arm

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fitted like this

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it didn't work. the plastic wheel was too flimsy, couldn't grip the filament and kept jamming against the wooden frame and the swing arm couldn't stay straight under tension.

Redesign #2 is much stiffer n simpler

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using a smaller ball bearing (purple), both sides of the bearing axle is pushed against the motor shaft & filament by a fork-type rod (orange) which is pushed by a screw going into the frames mid-plate (green). the bearings axle and the fork rod slides along the groove featured on the inner & outer frame plates (blue & grey)

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another view of the basic assembly mechanism

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made all the components

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rear of the inner plate that fits onto the motor

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assemble mechanism

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fitted, and it works gr8, grips the filament firmly with no slipping. test the printing tomorrow :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with the feeder mechanism working again, the first task is to print a proper neater version to replace the wooden one

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print the fork arm

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the main case

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all bits made

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assembled to work alot better

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at some point, the tensioner was too tight, which crushed the filament too thin and buckles/tangles over the long distance between the gear and the feed tube above

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redesigned to bring the feeder tube down closer to the motor gear

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printed, and now much stabler

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now lets get back to making the clips.

here's the throttle cable clip

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2-cable clip for HT lead 1-2

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4-cable clip

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new clips vs original

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just realised my next essential mod is to design n print a dual catch can to replace the dodgy motorcycle oil filter thing.

I'm getting some clear transp abs plastic too so it'll be see through to check the level.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tapped the threads onto the clip and screwed it on and yay looks the biz. went for a drive and nothings melted :cool:

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next is the steering drifting to the left. checked the tread depths.
the RH depths alot thicker than the LH which may explain the polystyrene cup drift.

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swapped the tyres left to right

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went for a drive and she either stays straight on a cambered street road or drifts abit right on motorway..so the tread depths definately affecting alignment and can't do much bout it but to reduce the effect while keeping the tyres directional, I swap just the thicker RH tyres front to rear.

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went for drive and the drift is alot less but still kinda there. meh
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You'll never escape it Paul. It's one of them things on daily used cars

aye cos we drive on the LH cambered roads and go clockwise on roundbouts and one disadv of directional tyres but tis minor.

I've equalised all the tyre pressures after swapping the tyres and it's now tracking dead straight on the flat motorways :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was driving home pass through a village, past some cars downhill pressed brake and then heard BANG! what the hell?
steering was straight, didn't crash into anything, drives like normal o_O

but then noticed when the LSD chatters during RH junctions and whenever I brake, it bangs. thats not good, need to check asap.

jacked up, wheel bearings fine, tie rods fine, apply brakes n turn wheel and the calipers fine, ain't loose..
but as I wriggle the wheel I noticed it's actually moving forw/backw HUH thats really not normal.

checked the front poly bush, nope definately fine, looked at the rear bush and oh my :eek:

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Andy, u once wanted pic of broken lower arm, here's ur lucky day :D

that BANG was the rear arm pin snapping off. how the heck that happen? perhaps the pin was really seized solid in the rear rubber bush and the repeated swinging of the arm over the years had twisted n fatigued that joint till it snaps off?

anyway it'll be offline for the week while I ordered another arm off ebay.
 
been looking in to making these.
They're a pain in the ass..
Getting the ball joint at the right angle, bush at the right angle and the design correct. Used a lot of material and time getting a set to function. Unless they're jigged they're a waste of time

I'm still going for it but I can't see them being either A cheap or B worthwhile. Personally I'd stick to standard ones unless your building a kit car type :)
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
They're a pain in the ass..
Getting the ball joint at the right angle, bush at the right angle and the design correct. Used a lot of material and time getting a set to function. Unless they're jigged they're a waste of time

I'm still going for it but I can't see them being either A cheap or B worthwhile. Personally I'd stick to standard ones unless your building a kit car type :)
wide...oneday. also double wishbone thoughts eh?
 
wide...oneday. also double wishbone thoughts eh?
Aye. Already on it. H701s are 10mm longer than standard to increase my roll over tolerance without changing my roll centres.
Twin wishbone pushrod in design for Nissanubaru. Tis why I made standard wishbones as practice :)
Making a standard one teaches you the angles and stresses of ball joints. Gives you an educated ground running start on complete custom ones unless you re-create the hub too, which is also a challenge but worth it when making a complete custom made car ie the little dp4 kart replica I'm trying out. Definitely good fun
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
yea what you said, :D I am still too thick for that ####. :p sounds clever though. I would be really worried with my own designs, wouldnt want one coming apart lol
Aye. Already on it. H701s are 10mm longer than standard to increase my roll over tolerance without changing my roll centres.
Twin wishbone pushrod in design for Nissanubaru. Tis why I made standard wishbones as practice :)
Making a standard one teaches you the angles and stresses of ball joints. Gives you an educated ground running start on complete custom ones unless you re-create the hub too, which is also a challenge but worth it when making a complete custom made car ie the little dp4 kart replica I'm trying out. Definitely good fun
 
yea what you said, :D I am still too thick for that ####. :p sounds clever though. I would be really worried with my own designs, wouldnt want one coming apart lol
Haha no, theyre kind of important. Doesn't stop you having a go though man
Just mimic a standard one first off and go from there. If i'm any help let me know I don't mind. Be good to see some other stuffs.
But longer wishbones is longer shafts and altering the mounting angle the shocks etc too.. so you need to alter the top of the suspension turret so your bearing doesn't crunch on compression.
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
Haha no, theyre kind of important. Doesn't stop you having a go though man
Just mimic a standard one first off and go from there. If i'm any help let me know I don't mind. Be good to see some other stuffs.
But longer wishbones is longer shafts and altering the mounting angle the shocks etc too.. so you need to alter the top of the suspension turret so your bearing doesn't crunch on compression.
I did think of kitcar arms to account for sr20 driveshaft lengths, on the note of shafts and crunch. Yeah will have a go when my welding isnt so pants. :D i have been practising
 
I did think of kitcar arms to account for sr20 driveshaft lengths, on the note of shafts and crunch. Yeah will have a go when my welding isnt so pants. :D i have been practising
Still encounter suspension top mount angle issues, but its simple to adjust :)


A beginner practices so he can get it right
A professional practices so they can't get it wrong
That's what I got told :)
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
Still encounter suspension top mount angle issues, but its simple to adjust :)


A beginner practices so he can get it right
A professional practices so they can't get it wrong
That's what I got told :)
right in my books = not having my welds on my harnesss points failing and launching me into the dash/windscreen lol
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
Oh... no that's not good haha
Weld them outside the car, they would have to pull through the floor even if the weld failed
in hind sight... should have... i will do at a later date... I will want to no doubt go over my work. A ramp would be nice eh
 
in hind sight... should have... i will do at a later date... I will want to no doubt go over my work. A ramp would be nice eh
Yup. Continuous progression and evolution :)
I have a roll over jig instead. Much nicer than working above your head although you can't have any fluids in the car or loose things
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Dam Paul.
We never have much luck
Well you should try a pair of these one day
View attachment 39669

that would be luvely one day.
at the mo my arms sit flat horizontal at static height so when it's under load, its actually swinging inwards n inducing the wrong +ve camber n prob causes some more outer tread wear.
if I space the lower ball joint to sit lower so that the arms r pointing down at static height it'll swing outwards during high loads to induce some -ve camber.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
another screw puncture at the front right tyre to fix

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K pop driveshaft off

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remove lockpin & wirebrush the exposed threads clean

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unscrew balljoint nut

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broken lower arm removed

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some fracture pics for andy. can clearly see it's a lateral bending fracture rather than a twist.
the fracture on the inner side of the crack is shiny n rough (this is where it began to crack)
the sharp little flick of metal on the outer side is dull n fresh (this was the last bit of metal holding the arm together till it snapped)
this indicated the failure happened during hard braking and/or bump, and indeed I was braking and prob hit a small pothole at the moment it snapped.

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join the pieces to see the cause. the outer RH is a clean snap

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well there's the problem, tis a faulty weld that created a sharp high stress point

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the poly bushes intact

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new arm

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nicely spot welded together

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ARB mount punched in

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hmm the front end of the bush casing is just tack welded to the rest of the arm, a potential weak spot

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the welding at the rear end is better, goes right up to the washer end

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apply some red rubber grease onto the rear bush to keep it spinning smoothly

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comparing the welding of the old broken arm vs new arm. notice the old arm was seam welded all along most of the sides whereas the new arm are simply spot welded and only afew welds here n there.

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here's a difference, the length n welding of the new arm goes right up to the rear bushing so it's less likely to snap now

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drill the front rubber bush to weaken it

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was a pita to remove

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carefully saw two grooves n chisel the remaining bush casing out

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poly bushes in

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arms fitted and back to normal now :cool:

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Andy and others interested in wishbone design. You can download my dissertation from my research gate profile (available through my LinkedIn under publications).
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Red rubber grease is fantastic stuff

That fatigue point is a good one. Thankfully my design avoids it :) ta for the pics

aye keeps the rubber lubed for longer and doesnt make it swell.

glad the info'll help highlight some potential weaknesses in copy parts.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
clutch has once again been getting harder n stickier n creaking under the strain over the past few weeks.

removed the cable and since I applied some gearbox oil through it mths ago, it's now gunked up n very sticky.
so to get it moving again turn it upright

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spray alot of thin wd40 inside and work it in/out for several minutes to let gravity flush the old gunk out till it slides freely again.

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this is the mess coming out at the bottom. it now slides effortlessly.
fitted it back and now the pedals working smooth n light again.
note to self: it should be mandentory to periodically re-oil the clutch cable whenever I service the car.

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next issue is the oil cap which I think is leaking cos the rubber seal has squished flat over the yrs and this edge on the black cap is preventing it from fully compressing n sealing properly

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removed the seal

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so carefully milled the problematic plastic edge off with the dremel

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so now the cap can screw down and fully compress the seal

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next to-do task list is prob make some better loom clips here

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