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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to paint & fit the good set of tyres to give a straight steering.
4 toyos painted, 3 tyres needed abit more air but 1 was completely flat o_O

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spray some window cleaner to find the leak and it was another screw :rolleyes:

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inserted a small screw to seal it best I can. I could try have a garage fix it for few quid but cba

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exterior all ready. bonnet n wings are all dirty again after the rain. will have to polish it tomorrow.

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since reading the oil level accurately is relying on a level car, I brought this cheap ebay bubble level and stuck to the dash centered to how the car sits in the garage so when I'm elsewhere, I just have to park the car or jack up a corner until the bubble is centred = level chassis for consistent oil reading.

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there's always been an annoying plasticy rattle/buzz from the rear left and also sometimes from the RH sunroof frame (pushing against the frame stops that rattle).
so tonight I was tightening all the bolts and I believe I've found the actual cause, its a loose rear RH sunroof bracket and the noise reverbed to the LH which gave false location hence twas so hard to locate

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went for a drive and she now cruises really dead straight and completely rattle noise free silent :cool:

just have to repaint the strut brace and replace some blown dash bulbs
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
washed car, and applied some tcut polish

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slightly bubbly brace need painting so alot of wirebrushing

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all bare metal

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primed

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painted with hammerite red spray paint, that stuff is wayy too watered and most the time shrinks away for any edges and exposing the grey primer and takes decades to dry

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applied paint in missing areas and still tacky so gonna have to wait till the last moment to fit it in morning, prob still tacky for japfest.

ok shower n sleep
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Plasti-kote is good stuff as well...comes in funky colours. :D
ah yes I see alot of that stuff at the local wilko's :D
will try their red sprays too.

just looked at the strut brace tday in daylight and geez I missed afew spots that night with grey primer peaking through :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
popped down to t.e.s. tyres to repair the front right puncture, balance the wheels and get quotes for new track tyres.

they couldn't fix the puncture cos it's too close to the edge, so I'll leave the screw in tbh.

front wheels balanced for a tenner and steering shake is reduced alot. just need to re-centre the front discs slightly.

and got quoted £90 each plus fitting (over £360 total) for Federal 595rs-r.
saw some from ebay for £58.30 (£233.20 total) so gonna try that instead.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was gonna swap back to the old set of tyres when I spotted the front left CV has split once again:rolleyes:
these motorfactor boots don't like high speed long distances. hmm actually perhaps it's cos the ABS cable you see there has slipped off loose and rubbed against it? have to replace it anyway

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drained gearbox. looks filthy and due a oil change.

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here's the multiple rupture

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halfords site says it sells CV grease, went to local store and non displayed, typical waste of a trip :rolleyes:
well there's enough clean grease left in it so I'll just leave it.

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had a spare CV boot and fitted that on

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
shafts fitted

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cleaned the dirty pillowball tops

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swapped back to old tyres and replaced the blown dash bulb
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
went to another local halfords to pickup more 5w50 synth oil for cadwell park soon and saw they had CV grease in stock

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this hidden rattle is a real pita.
was just checking the boot when I noticed that pushing on the mid-LH boot will make it touch the chassis whereas pushing the RH doesn't.
these middle bump stops seem squashed out, turned em 180deg and the boot is abit tighter to close but the LH edge still too close to the chassis

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here's the RH gap against the LH gap

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closer look along the surface to spot that the whole boot is actually too far to the right

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as agent Smith noted few months ago that the edge of his boot was knocking on the chassis, mine has the same rubbing marks
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-104#post-659770

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tried to loosen the hinge bolts and nudge it across but had to grind the round hole oval beforehand. nudged it slightly but the corner is still far offset

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looked at the upper bump stops which could be worn too soft?

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so wedged some plastic in there to stiffen it n push the boot out abit. nope no effect

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perhaps the gas struts are loading the hinge therefore difficult to nudge the mount, so removed em

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was able to nudge the boot to a better even position and retightened

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now it clears the chassis

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went for a drive and Garghhh annoying stealth rattle is still there :mad:
gonna take forever to source the cheaky ninja rattle.
 
looks to me like the air is getting sucked back into the bay. Most CFD results of under bonnet simulations shows the air escaping below the car at the rear of the engine, most likely it just adds to that flow.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
whats the conclusion paul ?
the airflow at the far corner is definately flowing out of the bonnet opening and then around the a-pillar at high speed.
at the mid-section however, the raised lip creates a large turbulent drag which also strikes the blunt windscreen wipers and slows down. it mostly points down towards the scuttle panel sometimes reversed.
 

frank

Club Member
praps lift the corners and lower the middle then ?
or else remove the rubber seal at the ends/corners only ?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
praps lift the corners and lower the middle then ?
or else remove the rubber seal at the ends/corners only ?
I'm leaving it.
at high speed the cooling airflow through the bay is fine.
the purpose of raising the bonnet was to allow the built up hot air to escape up when stationary, which it does.

even after removing the rubber strip, the bonnet still has this thick stiffening beam all across it that restricts the opening. plus I got a massive thick induction pipe going up over & down into the TB which further restricts air going over the engine.
 

frank

Club Member
I'm leaving it.
at high speed the cooling airflow through the bay is fine.
the purpose of raising the bonnet was to allow the built up hot air to escape up when stationary, which it does.

even after removing the rubber strip, the bonnet still has this thick stiffening beam all across it that restricts the opening. plus I got a massive thick induction pipe going up over & down into the TB which further restricts air going over the engine.
i,m gonna go for a fat rubber in just the middle paul, so that it holds the corners up a tad (i,m not a fan of lifters tbh) :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i,m gonna go for a fat rubber in just the middle paul, so that it holds the corners up a tad (i,m not a fan of lifters tbh) :)
with the bonnet sitting down normal, perhaps just remove the rubber strip as you mentioned so that there's at least a venting gap.
or cut a rear facing vent on the bonnet just above the turbo?
 
I did have a good article on aero testing on the old mini coopers it was quite interesting. Thought with the similar shape it might lend to the k11 as well
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Cadwell Park 2014 May

arrived at 4pm, no idea where to park for the track and couldn't see any micras so parked on the wet grass and went to find the sign-in office.
signed in, then need sound check and briefing by 5pm so went to unload the tools.
ain't gonna unload on muddy grass so spotted some clear tarmac bays, stored tyres n tools by the side, went for sound check (think it was 85db @4k).
fella called Jordan recognised the car, he was fixing his rusted micra and was driving a saxo on the day

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went to briefing and still no Andy or any members appear.
went for sighting laps. the tight Hill bends are very slippery and the long straights are faster than I realise.


waiting for the red flag restart, I checked the bores n compression but the gauge began to leak pressure. odd, the engine still works fine with good compression so the gauge must be failing, ok skip that. logged tyre depths n pressures.

went for first run, taking it easy with an unfamiliar damp track. ABS kicks in too early and prolongs the braking, affecting braking confidence. the hairpin after the Hills s-bends is very slippery under braking.


disabled the ABS for more braking control and softened the front dampers to try fix the understeer. on a moist track I'd have to brake progressively otherwise just stomping on the pedal will mostly lock the front wheels. gearstick return spring broke.


went out to refuel. I fit the camera underneath to see what the brakes n tyres are doing.
with only 30min left I'll only get afew laps. the cold worn tyres, brakes and some drizzle made the track abit slippery.
the removal of that front disc hub splash cowl certainly lets the pulsar brakes operate alot cooler than before, barely glows and the pads seem to last.
but this was a moist tight track whereas a hot dry fast track is a different story.


so now the bad set of tyres are just about at their min limit, swapped back to good set and went home. steering vibrates abit, perhaps the tape keeping the pulsar disc centre has melted abit and needs renewing.

so the tyres are used. engine - not much difference in oil consumption, still the same piston appearance and amount burnt.

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
plugs look same as before

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compression gauge had a leaking valve so replaced and got readings of 10.1 10.4 10.6 10.4bar now.

removed discs to replace the hub ducktape

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front pads ain't too bad now with the cooler running temps

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replaced the soft mushy duck tape with some thinner Alu tape that might be more robust

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
k while the parents n friends have got their karaoke blasting loudly downstairs and I'm annoyed n hot upstairs with windows open n no wind,
decided to resort to the cooler QUIETer garage and finish the wheel spacers.

clamped onto vice

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few min of grinding the lip off

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wirebrush pair of spacers

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fitted on the rear hub

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just about 10-13mm of thread left

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8mm spacer from old pulsar disc

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sits abit nicer, not clear in the dark. went for test drive to make sure it won't fall off :p

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gonna have to fit the longer studs on next trackday
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the rear axle track used to be this

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and now widened by 8mm each side looks like this

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getting a load of steering vibration, even after these wheels have been balanced few weeks ago. will swap front to rear to see if its the wheels or if its the pulsar discs
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
It could be with no central spigot due to spacers the wheels are slightly off centre?
hmm not sure cos its more shakey on some roads than others at the same 70mph so it could be a poor rippling road surface through these hard coilovers?
these steering wheels are not very well supported.
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
My rear wheels vibrated with rear spacers. I put it down to the spigot not keeping the wheel centralised when I hit bumps so the wheel was shufflig against the hub slightly.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
My rear wheels vibrated with rear spacers. I put it down to the spigot not keeping the wheel centralised when I hit bumps so the wheel was shufflig against the hub slightly.
unbalanced front wheels just shake the steering while unbalanced rear wheels would shake the whole car yeah?
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
unbalanced front wheels just shake the steering while unbalanced rear wheels would shake the whole car yeah?
I'd guess so, especially with a noddy rod (stiffer bushes would transfer the vibrations more effectively).
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Pollyp Nistune ECU map comparison

Here's a complete collection of all the ecu maps I've ran
(internal block / exhaust setup)

Standard CG13DE / Standard Exhaust
1 stock map.jpg


Standard CG13DE / Janspeed Remap
2 janspeed map.jpg


Standard CG13DE / Turbo Original Map
3 turbo kit map.jpg


Standard CG13DE / Turbo Remap
4 stock turbo map.jpg


Standard CG13DE / Turbo Remap Refined
5 stock turbo tuned map.jpg


JE Oversized Forged Pistons / Turbo Remap
6 forged turbo map.jpg


JE Oversized Forged Pistons / Turbo Remap Refined
7 forged turbo tuned map.jpg


Comparison
pollyp-ecu-map-compare.gif
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
today removed the rear wheel spacer but upon fitting the wheel onto the hub I noticed it can be nudged abit, ie plastic spigot wasn't snug.
appears that the old duck tape became soft n loose and not able to hold the spigot in the center securely.

so cleaned n reapplied new Alu tape

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so that the spigot is firmly secure

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and held the wheel securely centered until the nuts are tightened

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here's a broken gear return spring since cadwell park

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bent new hook

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and fitted to restore the gearstick feel

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went onto the same motorway I commute and yep the steering vibration was caused by the melted rear hub ducktape cos now that the new tape holds the spigot & rear wheels more centrally balanced, the steering no longer shakes vigorously :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
can you guys do some engine calc for me.

if the stock cg13de has a 71mm bore, 9.5:1 ratio and compression of 11-13bars
what ratio and bars should my JE forged pistons with a 71.5mm bore and guessing same piston dish be developing?

asking cos looking over the history of the engines compression graph (till the gauge valve broke and the new valve now ruins consistancy),

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the pressure rised 11-12bar during break-in as the piston pooled with oil,
the stiffer rings initially dipped pressure abit but was still oily,
first trackday really bedded the rings n dropped the pressure 1/2bar as the pistons were 90% dry,
but before the gauge broke, the last reading before cadwell dropped to bout 11bar with same 90% dry piston,

now with a new valve the current reading is 10-10.5bar

wondering if the dropping pressure means the oil rings are finally bedding in making the cylinders run drier so there's less oil pool above the rings to affect/partially increase the seal and so the cylinder should be reaching it's true theoretical pressure? (hence ask what the actual Bar should be),

or if the rings are wearing/blowing so much below what the ideal pressure should be that oil consumption & power loss will only get worse?

will need afew more readings with the new gauge valve to see if the results are stabilising and if the valve simply moved all the readings down equally.
 

frank

Club Member
i doubt if the oil control rings will have any effect on the compression pressures paul, and i doubt if the compression rings effect oil control either :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the result on the rate of oil consumption.
fill to 100%, note oil level & milage till it's near empty, refill and repeat.

oil levels.jpg


and after afew runs over 4 weeks, the consumption seems to be improving
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hang on, my algebra maybe abit rusty but was googling compression ratio and looking at this equation:

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b= bore
s= stroke
Vc= chamber volume at TDC

according to my calc the bigger the swept volume = bigger compression ratio?

so a stock 71mm x 80.5mm = 9.5:1 ratio
while the forged 71.5mm x 80.5mm = 9.62:1 ratio

so these forged pistons should be squeezing more gas and show more pressure?

or have I completely messed up?
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
hang on, my algebra maybe abit rusty but was googling compression ratio and looking at this equation:

View attachment 31853

b= bore
s= stroke
Vc= chamber volume at TDC

according to my calc the bigger the swept volume = bigger compression ratio?

so a stock 71mm x 80.5mm = 9.5:1 ratio
while the forged 71.5mm x 80.5mm = 9.62:1 ratio

so these forged pistons should be squeezing more gas and show more pressure?

or have I completely messed up?
Vc will be larger with larger pistons too, so there will be a VERY slight difference but nothing major I'd imagine
 
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