Please help me learn ...

H

Hazara

Hello everyone. I hope everyone is doing superb.

I have bought a Nissan Micra 1.4 SE+ yesterday. This is my third car. I bought the first one to learn to drive and it was stolen after 2 months. The 2nd one was damaged in an accident 4 weeks ago.

This morning when I started the car from cold, there was a sort of rattle sound. Today I was driving on the motorway I thought the sound different. Something like dry! I looked the service booklet and the last recorded service was a year ago.

Can some please help/advise me.

Specifically:

1. When I take to garage for service, apart from the usual i.e oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter, what should I ask to be done?

2. What about the water/cooler? Shall I ask the garage to do it, or I can simply top up, or drain and refill?
3. What about the gearbox oil? Does it need changing?
4. Any additives to the oil to boost performance?

The edges of the doors are bubbling up some parts shows sing of rust. What to do to prevent it from creeping further and get worst?

Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
 
say every:

week
  • check tyre pressure & tread depth
  • check all lights working

4.5k or 6months
  • change engine oil & filter
  • remove the dizzy cap n clean the oxide off the 4 contact points
  • check or replace wiper blades if smearing

18k or 1yr
  • change spark plugs
  • adjust clutch cable till biting point is between 1/4 n 1/2 way up
  • check gearbox fluid level
  • check CV boots
  • check wheel alignment and swap tyres diagonally or if tyres are directional, front - back
  • check brakes not binding
  • check brake pad/shoe & disc thickness & condition
  • check seat belts
  • check headlight beam
  • check handbrake fully releases and fully engages after 8clicks, adjust cable if needed
  • check for rust under the common crossmember & inner/outer sills

27k or 2yrs
  • check waterpump & alternator belts
  • change air filter
  • check O2 sensors working
  • change PCV cotton filter
  • change brake fluid
  • check steering & suspension
  • check exhaust is secure & not blowing
  • change coolant. if old coolant was brown n dirty then flush clean the cooling system (with heater dial set to full hot btw) & flush the radiator too

36k or 2yr
  • change fuel filter
  • check ign system
 
pollyp said:
say every:

week
  • check tyre pressure & tread depth
  • check all lights working
4.5k or 6months
  • change engine oil & filter
  • remove the dizzy cap n clean the oxide off the 4 contact points
  • check or replace wiper blades if smearing
18k or 1yr
  • change spark plugs
  • adjust clutch cable till biting point is between 1/4 n 1/2 way up
  • check gearbox fluid level
  • check CV boots
  • check wheel alignment and swap tyres diagonally or if tyres are directional, front - back
  • check brakes not binding
  • check brake pad/shoe & disc thickness & condition
  • check seat belts
  • check headlight beam
  • check handbrake fully releases and fully engages after 8clicks, adjust cable if needed
  • check for rust under the common crossmember & inner/outer sills
27k or 2yrs
  • check waterpump & alternator belts
  • change air filter
  • check O2 sensors working
  • change PCV cotton filter
  • change brake fluid
  • check steering & suspension
  • check exhaust is secure & not blowing
  • change coolant. if old coolant was brown n dirty then flush clean the cooling system (with heater dial set to full hot btw) & flush the radiator too
36k or 2yr
  • change fuel filter
  • check ign system
Click to expand...

Thank you very very much. It is really more than great.

A bit of further information from the last MOT which is done by West Way and changed the following:
1. Wiper blades
2. Caliper (I don't know what that is!)
3. CV GAITER offside front
4. Front Pads
5. Off side front brake caliper

Since I have just got the car I should do the 18K or 1 year one. What do you think?

Couple of other questions
1 What should I do to stop from spreading?

The edge of doors showing sign of rust and underneath the back door the edge (the sharp part not carve area) showing sign of rust.

2. When I start from the cold, there is a loud sound which I can not describe. Is it chain related? What to do with that?

Very many thanks for your really really expert guide.

Regards
 
caliper = brake calipers were sticking/seized and either fixed or replaced

whenever you get any used car and want it to be reliable, it's always best to give it a full thorough check & service cos you never know when it was last serviced.

as for gearbox oil, no need to replace unless its whining abit or the oil is very dark n full of contaminants when its drained out to check.

the surface rust will require sanding back down to bare metal, rust treat, and repainted

when starting a cold engine with zero oil pressure, initially the hydraulic timing chain tensioners are reliant on their weak springs to keep hold of the chain therefore they will be slightly loose n rattle about for few secs.

once the oil pump produces enough oil pressure, the oil warning light goes out, the pressurised oil is forced into the chain tensioners through a tiny hole and hydraulically rams the tensioners up against the chain to take up slack till it stops rattling.

if the chain keeps rattling then either the tiny hydraulic opening is blocked with sludge so the tensioner never pressurises and stays loose, or the chain is so worn n stretched that the tensioner can't reach to induce any tension on the chain. both are prob caused by lack of oil changes
 
pollyp said:
caliper = brake calipers were sticking/seized and either fixed or replaced

whenever you get any used car and want it to be reliable, it's always best to give it a full thorough check & service cos you never know when it was last serviced.

as for gearbox oil, no need to replace unless its whining abit or the oil is very dark n full of contaminants when its drained out to check.

the surface rust will require sanding back down to bare metal, rust treat, and repainted

when starting a cold engine with zero oil pressure, initially the hydraulic timing chain tensioners are reliant on their weak springs to keep hold of the chain therefore they will be slightly loose n rattle about for few secs.

once the oil pump produces enough oil pressure, the oil warning light goes out, the pressurised oil is forced into the chain tensioners through a tiny hole and hydraulically rams the tensioners up against the chain to take up slack till it stops rattling.

if the chain keeps rattling then either the tiny hydraulic opening is blocked with sludge so the tensioner never pressurises and stays loose, or the chain is so worn n stretched that the tensioner can't reach to induce any tension on the chain. both are prob caused by lack of oil changes
Click to expand...

Very many thanks. It really helps.

couple of more questions:

1. What type of oil do I need to put in it? (the car is 2000 or W reg)
2. What about any oil additives? Dose it help improve perforce/lengthening live expectancy?

Best Regards
 
i use castrol gtx 10w40 £17 4L from b&q, oil filter from local motor factors and change oil & filter every 6months.

changing oil & filter frequently is better for any engines reliability than adding additives n prolonging oil changes hoping it lasts
 
pollyp said:
i use castrol gtx 10w40 £17 4L from b&q, oil filter from local motor factors and change oil & filter every 6months.

changing oil & filter frequently is better for any engines reliability than adding additives n prolonging oil changes hoping it lasts
Click to expand...

Very many thanks. I took the car to the local garage today and asked for "Full Service" and cost me £90 pounds. They have changed the oil and oil filter, air filter, fuel filter. Checked the power steering and gear oil level. Checked the brake and clutch. They have also done the antifreeze.

The told me the car has no pollen filter. Is that true?

They told me that the clutch can not adjusted anymore and next I have to fit a new clutch.

If its going to be like this I'd better learn how to do it myself. In six months time, I have to change the oil and oil filter and would bother you to help me do it myself!

Best Regars
 
The car does have a pollen filter but it is a pain too fit and genuinely requires cutting open the dash behind the glove box.
 
davey1991 said:
The car does have a pollen filter but it is a pain too fit and genuinely requires cutting open the dash behind the glove box.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. I have released that. I think the garage worker did not know or did not want the hassle of doing it. That is why he told me that.
 
Hello everyone,

I was on M62 yesterday from Leeds and suddenly the engine management light came on. There was no reduction in performance of the car.

Does any one know what that is and what I have to do?

Please help
 
You need a code reader Hazara. You can get an app for your phone for a couple of quid and a bluetooth ODBII sender off ebay for about 15 quid :). Also, genuine Nissan 10w40 oil is cheaper than the stuff Paul mentioned.
 
Guy said:
You need a code reader Hazara. You can get an app for your phone for a couple of quid and a bluetooth ODBII sender off ebay for about 15 quid :). Also, genuine Nissan 10w40 oil is cheaper than the stuff Paul mentioned.
Click to expand...

Very many thanks for the quick reply.

Does any bluetooth ODBII work or it has to be specific? My car is a 2000 plat.
Is it possible to give me a some what exact spec for the equipment I need to buy?

Regards
 
This is what I use:

code_reader.png
 
Depending on what the fault is it could cause more damage if the car is used daily.... Most people would not drive the car until the issue is sorted as it could be terminal if the problem causes excessive wear etc
 
hello everyone,

On Saturday I wanted to take my car to mechanic to check what was wrong with it. But before going I opened the air filter and checked and also removed and put back one of the plugs. On the way to mechanic the engine management light went off. Any I went to the mechanic and they were closed. So drove the car until today and the light came on again while I was in M62. I have to go to Leeds again, since I working there.

Do you think is it okay to drive the car or shall I go to mechanic?
 
UPDATE:

I have driven 180 miles with the engine management light on. Yesterday on the way back home from Leeds, when I started the car started but was a bumpy and I had push the accelerator to keep it on. Than i noticed a black smoke from the exhaust. A work colleague told me there is something wrong with the spark plug. Only 2 weeks back they were changed or supposed to be changed. I have to go to the garage and find out why they did not change the plugs or if they changed it why it is doing the same thing.

I have ordered one of those code reader which will be delivered today and I will check the car before going to the garage.
 
Hello every one,

Can some tell me where to located the scart connection for OBD Scan in my car Please?

The car is a Nissan Micra, 1.4 SE+ 2000 plat.

I have just got my OBD Scan code reader. Opened the underneath the ash tray and there is nothing that resembles a board!

Please help
 
Hazara said:
Hello every one,

Can some tell me where to located the scart connection for OBD Scan in my car Please?

The car is a Nissan Micra, 1.4 SE+ 2000 plat.

I have just got my OBD Scan code reader. Opened the underneath the ash tray and there is nothing that resembles a board!

Please help
Click to expand...
that is where the ecu is, like polly said where the fusses are by your right knee... if you drive on the right side of the road, not the wrong side.
 
Hello every one,
Can some please help?

The code reader says no FAULT stored in the ECU!! But the engine management light is on and the car some times loses power. When the car is in neutral sometimes it goes off itself.

regards
 
UPDATE:

Went to the garage, but before going asked a friend, who used to have a garage, to check the car. He opened the air filter part and placed his hand on the whole to stop/reduce the air(?). Afterwords we connected the code reader and the code came up with codes P0110 and P0420. I did not clear it.

We went to the garage and they opened the filter and removed a small filter from the filter compartment. When my friend asked about they put it back! They connected their diagnostic machine and came up with the same fault codes!! Because I was specious about the spark plugs they opened it to show me they changed it. They put back every thing together and told me that I need to change Intake air temperature sensor and catalyst system!

I knew that the problem they pointed was as result of my friend's testing. I said I have to think about it.

I went to the car and wanted to clear the error codes from the car, and found there was not code again. I stared the car the engine management light was off!

I think light was on due to one of the spark plugs was loose or something. Or they have removed that small filter from the filter compartment.

Anyways, there are symptoms that worries me. The car when started is not stable it rev up and down. My friend was saying there is something wrong with air intake.

Can some please tel me what is wrong with this?

Pollyp: in another post (here:http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/what-should-you-watch-for-when-buying.53060/) you were saying the car must settle down in 750 rmps what was that about? I think my car suffering from the symptoms you were talking about. Can you please some shade some light on this?

Regards
 
the prefacelift had a waxstat fast idle mechanism which tended to seize open and conflict with the IAV and cause issues.

i believe nissan has removed the waxstat on the facelift cos of that prob so idle is solely controlled by the IAV.
normally it should fast idle when cold at 1300 and eventually idle at a stable 750 when warm. these IAV crust up with carbon over time till they start affecting idling so needs annual cleaning.

wonder if the mechanics checked if all the sensors on the realtime readings are working properly and especially if the primary & 2nd O2 sensors working within spec cos a faulty O2 can cause a limp mode rich mixture which could foul the plugs and ruin the expensive cat eventually and may affect idle control too.

btw that smalll rectangle filter in the airbox is the PCV breather filter. tends to get soaked and blocked with oil mist (piston ring blowby etc) over years and cause a minor crankcase vacuum but its more of an emissions treatment device and shouldn't affect how it runs.
 
pollyp said:
wonder if the mechanics checked if all the sensors on the realtime readings are working properly and especially if the primary & 2nd O2 sensors working within spec cos a faulty O2 can cause a limp mode rich mixture which could foul the plugs and ruin the expensive cat eventually and may affect idle control too.
.
Click to expand...

Very many thanks. I think this must the issue at the moment. I have driven nearly 200 Miles with a faulty plug and now the cat is in its way out!!! Called Nissan for price of cat system and was told it cost over £300.

I suspect when the garage did the service they did not fit the plug properly or something and that cause the light to cam up. When touched the plug it gone and next time it came on I've driven with that faulty plug it is now as you said ruined the cat.

At the moment the engine management light i s off. When garage guy opened the plug it was dark and full of black smoke!!!

now couple of other silly questions:

1. Keeping in mind the light off, do I need to change anything?
2. Will it help in any way if I change new better quality plugs?
3. What about the Mass Air Flow sensor do I need to change it?
4. What about the O2 sensors, will it help if I change them/
5. Revers or contain the damage to the catalyst converter? Is it possible at all? if yes how?
6. Any additives to fuel or different fuel, will it help?

I will not change the catalyst converter/system unless it fails MOT.

Please advise

Regards
 
its no good just guessing and throwing money at it.

you have to look at the sensor telemetry and spot which one appears faulty to investigate before considering buying replacements.

first get the engine side up n running properly from MAF, coolant, timing, clean plugs, plug gaps and to the O2 sensors before diagnosing if the cat is reducing the emissions enough at the MOT centre. I read if the cat had been overfuelled n overheat badly the exhaust would smell rotten under load and its irreversible.

no need for additives n stick to normal fuel
 
pollyp said:
its no good just guessing and throwing money at it.

you have to look at the sensor telemetry and spot which one appears faulty to investigate before considering buying replacements.

first get the engine side up n running properly from MAF, coolant, timing, clean plugs, plug gaps and to the O2 sensors before diagnosing if the cat is reducing the emissions enough at the MOT centre. I read if the cat had been overfuelled n overheat badly the exhaust would smell rotten under load and its irreversible.

no need for additives n stick to normal fuel
Click to expand...

Very many thanks for the reply.

Would it be possible to give a step-by-step instructions on how to do it please. I lost my contract and not going to work for while now and taking the car to garage will cost me a lot. I will try to do most of, if possible myself with your help.

1. For starter, which plug shall I use, Bosch or any?
2. What is the timing? is it the timing chain?
3. What is the plug gaps? How it works?

BTW: I have my other car which I crashed still parked in front of the house. Is it possible to use parts like MAF filter from that? It is 1998 GX.

Regards
 
if you got a laptop you could install nissan datascan I on it and use a usb or serial port 'Consult' adapter cable to connect it to the ecu via the diagnostic port under the drivers fusebox.

I use a Blazt usb consult cable and installed nissan datascan 1 diagnostic software on my laptop to view realtime telemetry and perform active tests such as override sensors n actuators or turn injectors on/off, a powerful essential diagnostic tool imo.

I only tested it works on my 98 mid-facelift ecu and not on the earlier smaller basic ecu's and haven't tested on a facelift ecu yet so can be sure if it's compatible.

dunno if Blazt exists anymore but can find more info about supplier at nissandatascan.com

http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSI/index.php?content=buynow
 
pollyp said:
if you got a laptop you could install nissan datascan I on it and use a usb or serial port 'Consult' adapter cable to connect it to the ecu via the diagnostic port under the drivers fusebox.

I use a Blazt usb consult cable and installed nissan datascan 1 diagnostic software on my laptop to view realtime telemetry and perform active tests such as override sensors n actuators or turn injectors on/off, a powerful essential diagnostic tool imo.

I only tested it works on my 98 mid-facelift ecu and not on the earlier smaller basic ecu's and haven't tested on a facelift ecu yet so can be sure if it's compatible.

dunno if Blazt exists anymore but can find more info about supplier at nissandatascan.com

http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSI/index.php?content=buynow
Click to expand...

Very many thanks.

I have checked the link and my car It seems that the port on my car is of the the type DatascanII + BlaztII uses. What about Torque? Can it be tested with that? I have looked at some of the realtime stuff while the car was running and it give me good reading. It is modifiable so that you can add different sensors monitoring on it. Plus the datascan is seem a bit pricy ($130).

Regards
 
frank said:
your car has the later obd2 system hazara, so you could probably use any generic obd2 lead and softwarehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-DIAGN...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1a4aa6a1
Click to expand...
Thank you for reply.
I have ordered from amazon a clone ELM 327 and it seemed not working. Send it back and ordered a new one which will hopefully be delivered today. It is a Bluetooth one which works with Torque on my mobile. Alternatively I have also ordered a USB mini Bluetooth. I will keep updated. But I need some Step-by-Step instructions on what to look for and how it should be.
 
UPDATE:

This is the result of realtime testing. I have used ScanToo.net which came on the CD with mini OBD2 sanning tool.


Absolute Throttle position: 7.8%
Engine RPM: 640 RPM
Speed:0
Calculated Load value:0
Timing Advance (cyl. #1): 12.5 – 14.0
Intake Manifold Pressure: N/A
Air Flow Rate (MAF senssor): 0.2 lb/min
Fule system 1status: closed loop
Fuel system 2 status: Unused
Short term fuel trim (Bank 1): -0.8 to +0.8%
Long term fuel trim (Bank 1 ): -23.4 %
Intake Air temperature : 120 f
Coolant temperature: 199 f to 201
O2 sensor1, bank 1: 0.800 v @ -1.16 s.t. fuel trim (This value was quite flactuating from 0.115 v @ -1.16 to +2.3)
02 sensor 2, bank 1:0.640
 
as a comparison this is a datalog of mine when it had a janspeed system and remapped.



bare in mind i think my dizzy was abit offset during mapping so may appear incorrect there.

note the behaviour of the O2 swinging rapidly up/down during cruise and the IAV (AAC)
 
What is the AAC/IAV stands for? I think in your case the AAC was relative to the speed, if I am not mistaken.

Is there anything in the data I have present to be worried about?

I have used an other software which was showing the cat temperature as well. I have redo the test and will post it here again. Would it be possible to comment on the data please?

An other question: Is it possible that a faulty plug can cause all the damages? What makes ask this question is that, whey the management came all three times, it went off after touching/adjusting/refitting the last plug on the driver side.

One more thing when starting from cold, it dispose off unburnt fuel I think. What could that be/ caused by?

Any informative comment is appreciated.

Regards
 
lots of acronyms for the same device but its called:
Auxiliary Air Control
Idle Air Control Valve
Idle Control Valve
etc

u talkin bout a faulty spark plug?
a non-firing plug or misfiring isn't hard to miss (sounds like a citreon 2cv). if you've been driving 200miles with a misfire, it'll be pumping unburnt fuel through the chamber (washing oil off the cylinder walls) and flooding towards the hot cat and could burn it out.

warning lights have a purpose and means stop and get it checked/fixed asap before it gets more expensive
 
I have used a different software and tested again and came up with the following datat:


Short term Fuel Trim: 92.158 - 93.72 %
Long term fuel trim:76.538%
Calculated load value: 7.84
Absolute Throttle position:7.84
Intake Air Temperature: 41 c
Catalyst Temperature: 232 c
Air flow rate:1.89
Engine RPM:680
Engine Coolant temperature:79 c

Can you see any problem here based the values above?

Regards
 
the 1st test looks more legit to me, its trimming the fuel back due to a missfire maybe, and @ 23% its about to flag up the mil light again
 
frank said:
the 1st test looks more legit to me, its trimming the fuel back due to a missfire maybe, and @ 23% its about to flag up the mil light again
Click to expand...
Very many thanks frank,

Do you think I have to ask the garage for doing the plugs? Or I have to do something with something else/

Regards
 
Hazara said:
Very many thanks frank,

Do you think I have to ask the garage for doing the plugs? Or I have to do something with something else/

Regards
Click to expand...
you need to clarify whether it was the sparkplugs or lambda sensors that were sooty black first really mate, and the t/b solder trick only applies to the pre-coilpack (pre 2000) k11,s
 
frank said:
you need to clarify whether it was the sparkplugs or lambda sensors that were sooty black first really mate, and the t/b solder trick only applies to the pre-coilpack (pre 2000) k11,s
Click to expand...

Very many thanks.

Lets sum up the fact:

1. After the service, the engine management came ON.
2. The garage did something with the plugs and the light went OFF.
3. Monday, on the way to Leeds felt a bit loss power!!!
4. Friday, on the home from Leeds the light cane ON again.
5. Saturday, before going to the garage, I tried to see if the plugs connection was loos and opened the air Filter and put it
6. On the way to garage, the light went OFF, went to the garage it was closed.
7.Tuesday, on the way back from Leeds the light came ON again, (drove 50 miles with light on)
8.Wednesday drove to Leeds with light, parked the car went to work
9 Wednesday evening, started the car it was miss firing and black smoke was coming out, not idle-ing fast. It was up and down
10 Thursday connected the code reader and came up with NO FAULTS stored in the ECU
11 Friday took the car to garage:
  • on the way to garage asked a friend to check if there was something wrong with plugs, he opened the air filter compartment while car was running and closed the air intake by hand, the car was doing the same as did on Wednesday evening.
  • closed the air-filter compartment and this closed the air intake hose by hand which resulted the same is before,
  • removed the plugs one by one to check which one from driver side
  • on first removal of the first plug no noticeable difference happened
  • on removing the rest of the plugs the engine was shaking
  • on 2nd time removal of the first plug the engine started shaking
  • after that the engine stabilized and was running smoothly,
  • connected the code reader and this time it came up with two error codes: P0110 and P0420.
12. In the garage, they missed around by revving the car and removed the breather filter (PCV) and nothing happened.
13. on my request, to prove they have changed the plug, they opened the plug and was smokey, The put the plug on and checked the car with their own computer came up with the same code AS I did. The garage owner told me he is closing the garage I have to come back after two. He told me that the car needs, based on the result of computer test, intake air temperature sensor and catalyst system and it is expensive. He also told me that I have to do my research if the service or plug was the cause he will pay for fixing the car.
14. I wanted to clear the codes, because I knew why the car threw those codes.
15. To my amazement, when I connected the code reader there was no code again.
16. Turned the car on, the light was gone OFF. The car was running stable.
17. Yesterday drove to friends house, on the way the drive was not smooth,( afterwards did all the tests and posted the result)
18. Today turned the car on from the cold, it was miss firing and smelly smoke was coming out and the car shaking and was not good.

To sum up: on all the three occasions the lights gone OFF, after touching and missing around with the plugs. Because I drove nearly 180 miles with the light on and fault/foul/bad plugs, the unburnt fuel caused secondary damage as well.

Any idea observations?

Please help and advise.

Regards
 
frank said:
you need to clarify whether it was the sparkplugs or lambda sensors that were sooty black first really mate, and the t/b solder trick only applies to the pre-coilpack (pre 2000) k11,s
Click to expand...

1. How find out which one is the guilty part?
2. What about the unburnt fuel? What causes that? Lack of oxygen? Any other part responsible?

Regards
 
its the "plugs" bit that is confusing hazara, if the engine was lumpy and they removed #1 coil lead and there was no difference ? then thats a missfiring cylinder (for whatever reason, ie, sparkplug/injector etc)
unburnt fuel will indicate a loss of spark, i think you need to remove the 4 sparkplugs and post some pics up really
 

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