I'm buying a 3 door prefacelift pretty soon, what should i look at that might be bad on it
ya, ive been tryin to read this for a while now, only like 20 pages indocumented life of a preface k11
Please excuse my ignorance.i wrote a checklist when i brought my 2nd k11:
tell the dealer don't start the car upon arrival and make sure the engine or bonnets cold.
Jack up each corner
- check entire chassis & body for rust holes, poke hard with finger or a blunt tool, most commonly the front crossmember, the outer & inner sills and rear sill/rear wheel arch (sunroof drains down the a-pillar and straight into a closed off sill box-section which rusts it inside out)
- check all bodywork shut lines, is the car straight?
- look for chipped windscreen
- check dampers are working and dry
- check oil, coolant leaks
- check all lights, indicators, reverse
- VIN plates and engine stamp code untampered
- test n check every switch n button n boot/bonnet lever is working
- check jack n tools are there
- check gearstick centres and moves freely
- check passenger carpet doesn't feel or smell or look damp
- check wheel bearings for play
- check steering for play
- spin n check brakes not binding especially the rears
- check cv boots not split/greasy
Start the engine
- oil level
- oil cap
- coolant level & colour
- brake fluid level
- PAS level if fitted
- air filter clean
- tyre depth, condition, pressure
- remove n assess spark plugs & piston top (insulator should be brown n dry). reinstall.
- remove radiator cap, it should be brimmed with coolant
- without touching pedal, the cold engine should fast idle at bout 1300rpm
- check exhaust doesn't smoke heavily upon firing
- the timing chain usually rattles initially but few secs later oil pressure builds to tighten the tensioners and it should silence
- blip the throttle and check the coolant doesn't bubble and exhaust doesn't smoke heavily. refit cap
- cover tail pipe n check for blowing exhaust
check all docs like v5, MOT, services, tax
- check clutch bite point is between 1/4 and 1/2 way up
- check for any odd knocks n rattles n squeaks
- check the CV joint isn't knocking when turning full lock
- once warmed up it should accelerate smoothly without hesitation
- holding the wheel loosely on a flat level road it should brake in a straight line without pulling to one side
it could,nt be any clearer, if you dont know anything about cars or engines then take someone who doesPlease excuse my ignorance.
This is really comprehensive, but for people like me who does not know anything about car & engine is too much and almost useless since we don't what we are looking for. Apart from the obvious ones such as the rust on front cross member and underneath near the tires the is chines!
Ca you please re-write this list and point out what we are looking for and how should it be?
Thank you very much.
Thanks for the reply. As the old saying goes " if your friend is hungry don't give them fish rather teach them how to fish", I thought i have to learn what look for and how. I think before you had your degree in car/automotive desing you might had the same proble as I do.if ur not fully confident with what to look out for before buying a lemon, I'd suggest taking a mechanically minded friend with you to check & advise.
or else you could end up buying a lemon that'll soon have an uneconomical running and/or repair bills.
Very many thanks. It is much appreciated.without touching pedal, the cold engine should fast idle at bout 1300rpm
how to mesure 1300rpm?
by looking at a tacho, which is standard on my SLX. if there's no tacho, fast idle basically sounds like it revs abit faster n louder than normal. once the engine temps warmed up, the revs should drop down to a quiet 750rpm.
what am I looking for?
any gooey mayoo-like residue under the cap that could signify an expensive blown HG
check dampers are working and dry. Is the shock absorber?
yea bounce each corner up n down with ur body weight and then watch how many times it continues to bounce once you let go. if it stops after 1-2 bounces the shocks r fine. if it goes on alot more, the shocks have failed. check if any oil stain from the shock absorbers also leaked out.
check clutch bite point is between 1/4 and 1/2 way up. What am I looking here for? What are the signs? What it should be like?
with the engine running, clutch pedal down and in gear, raise the clutch and note at what point of the pedals travel that the clutch begins to bite and move the car. it should be between 1/4 or 1/2 way up the pedals travel.
note: as the clutch wears down, the biting point rises further up the pedals travel stroke.
if its below 1/4, the clutch cable's too loose so the clutch won't be fully disengaged when the pedal's down making it difficult to select a gear and wear out the gearbox fast.
if its above 1/2 way, the clutch release system will be under constant pressure even if the pedals fully released. this puts alot of stress through the clutch release bearing, wearing it out. plus it'll also be reducing the clamping force of the clutch (cos it's partially trying to disengage the clutch), which will eventually lead to clutch slip under high torque loads which again wears out the clutch and you lose drive.
spin n check brakes not binding especially the rears What is binding and what the signs?
when you spin the wheels they should be spinning kinda freely with a little bit of friction from the brakes (cos the brake pads are always lightly touching the discs) & for the front wheels: transmission (cos of the viscous oil). if the wheels come to a halt soon after you spun them, the brake pads are still pressing against the disc = waste fuel, overheat & wear out brakes, cause the car to pull to one side.
a stuck brake could be caused by:
- seized clip that the brake pads slide along
- seized caliper piston
- seized caliper guide pin rails
- hydraulic restriction in the brake lines
- seized rear handbrake mechanism