Just bought a K11 March, identifying stater motor type

T

torqueisch

Just bought a K11 March, starter motor checked, all ok still not starting!

Hello everyone, im needing a bit of help. Ive bought a Micra/March ( Jan 2001 x reg). This morning it wouldnt start, turns out its the starter motor (so the breakdown guy said) . Battery is nearly new but I tried starting it this morning and nothing, not even a click! Eventually managed to bump start it, and then it started with the key a little later on. However its now refusing to start, no clicks or turning over at all. its only done 76,000kms so im surpised its gone. I just need to know which one will fit. Its not the last style of K11 with Horizontal rear wiper but the one just before, with the bigger headlights. I will attempt the work myself when I can locate the starter motor, but I wanted to order one right away so its ready to put on. Im also wondering if its a loose connection?
Many thanks!
 
i think there is only the normal/common type starter torqueisch, and also the rarer one fitted to some of the coilpack k11,s (the one fitted under the inlet mani)
i would check the battery and starter leads first tho eh
 
torqueisch said:
Hello everyone, im needing a bit of help. Ive bought a Micra/March ( Jan 2001 x reg). This morning it wouldnt start, turns out its the starter motor (so the breakdown guy said) . Battery is nearly new but I tried starting it this morning and nothing, not even a click! Eventually managed to bump start it, and then it started with the key a little later on. However its now refusing to start, no clicks or turning over at all. its only done 76,000kms so im surpised its gone. I just need to know which one will fit. Its not the last style of K11 with Horizontal rear wiper but the one just before, with the bigger headlights. I will attempt the work myself when I can locate the starter motor, but I wanted to order one right away so its ready to put on. Im also wondering if its a loose connection?
Many thanks!
Click to expand...

hey, as far as I know the march and micra starters are the same. The only difference might be the solenoid plug on the loom but that is not a biggie. I just criped little ring connection on. The starter is held on by two bolts you will probably have to take the battery and the tray out to het proper access.
 
Thats a good idea! Well the engine is the non individual coil type, but the starter motor is in the most awkward place- under the inlet manifold! I thought on the manuals it was but the battery tray?? Nightmare to get to!
 
Well the plot thickens.....

Local garage took the starter motor off to have it checked / recon'd and they couldnt find anything wrong with it! Solonoid all ok, not sticking.
The fault is still there, but as on poster suggested ,ive tried pushing car forward or back in gear, and then it will start with the key everytime! The garage have suggested getting an auto electrician to have a look at it, but it must be something linked with the act of moving it forward/backward while in gear. Anybody got any ideas as im lost. Also sometimes it will start with the key and sometimes it will try to start and then the motor just cuts out just as its nearly started and I have to rock it forward in gear then put it in neutral and it starts again! The car doesnt have NATS but it does have an aftermarket autowatch immobiliser but im 99% sure it cant be this as moving the car forward or back in gear will get the car started 100% of the time with the key:doh:
 
torqueisch said:
Well the plot thickens.....

Local garage took the starter motor off to have it checked / recon'd and they couldnt find anything wrong with it! Solonoid all ok, not sticking.
The fault is still there, but as on poster suggested ,ive tried pushing car forward or back in gear, and then it will start with the key everytime! The garage have suggested getting an auto electrician to have a look at it, but it must be something linked with the act of moving it forward/backward while in gear. Anybody got any ideas as im lost. Also sometimes it will start with the key and sometimes it will try to start and then the motor just cuts out just as its nearly started and I have to rock it forward in gear then put it in neutral and it starts again! The car doesnt have NATS but it does have an aftermarket autowatch immobiliser but im 99% sure it cant be this as moving the car forward or back in gear will get the car started 100% of the time with the key:doh:
Click to expand...

prob poor connection or bad ground between battery & starter.

when i was relocating my new racing battery under the passenger seat of my k11 i extended the live cable to the battery but bolted the negative to the chassis, so this setup relies on a good ground through the chassis to the starter as oppose to the direct -ve lead on a normal setup.
initially it started ok but after few days it began to just click without starting, like the teeth were not aligned. could only start on occasions by shifting 3rd to 4th to neutral to nudge the flywheel teeth along to the starter till it can fully engage then start but it got worse over time till that method failed.

i eventually traced the cause to a poor corroded connection between the starter and the chassis ground lead. i grinded clean all the connection surfaces and now it starts very strongly instantly.
 
Well everybody, thanks for the help but I think ive sorted it. Feel a total fool but it appears the clutch pedal needs to be depressed to start the car. I tried it 10 times with the clutch in and it started, and 10 times with foot off the pedal and it wouldnt start. I cant believe ive not tried this before, perhaps I have and just didnt notice? Strange that the moving the car backward or foward slightly would allow it to start without the clutch pedal depressed thoughfwn
 
it could still be a weak feed to the starter solenoid thats not enough to push the pinion into full engagement. the starter motor will only turn if the solenoid is fully engaged, completes the contact and then feeds power to the motor.

nudging the flywheel teeth closer in line means the solenoid doesn't have to waste energy trying to ram the pinion into chamfered edge of the flywheel in order to turn it slightly (against friction from engine & gearbox) till it slots in.

pressing the clutch disconnects the gearbox so the starter solenoid only has to deal with friction of the engine during engagement.
 
pollyp said:
it could still be a weak feed to the starter solenoid thats not enough to push the pinion into full engagement. the starter motor will only turn if the solenoid is fully engaged, completes the contact and then feeds power to the motor.

nudging the flywheel teeth closer in line means the solenoid doesn't have to waste energy trying to ram the pinion into chamfered edge of the flywheel in order to turn it slightly (against friction from engine & gearbox) till it slots in.

pressing the clutch disconnects the gearbox so the starter solenoid only has to deal with friction of the engine during engagement.
Click to expand...

Well the starter and solinoid were checkedby a place that reconditions them and they said neither starter or soloinoid were faulty. Its started everytime today with the clutch depressed, must be an import thing. Thanks everybody!
 
torqueisch said:
Well the starter and solinoid were checkedby a place that reconditions them and they said neither starter or soloinoid were faulty. Its started everytime today with the clutch depressed, must be an import thing. Thanks everybody!
Click to expand...

my other march is manual and it doesnt need slutch down to start, altough its abou ten years older then yours.
 
torqueisch said:
Well the starter and solinoid were checkedby a place that reconditions them and they said neither starter or soloinoid were faulty. Its started everytime today with the clutch depressed, must be an import thing. Thanks everybody!
Click to expand...

i meant the electrical feed to & from the starter maybe bad, not the starter or solenoid.

there's no switch on the clutch pedal is there?
 
pollyp said:
i meant the electrical feed to & from the starter maybe bad, not the starter or solenoid.

there's no switch on the clutch pedal is there?
Click to expand...

Just checked and there is a switch at the top part of the clutch pedal, and its starts everytime with the clutch depressed, so it must be this?
 

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