High comp1.3 conversion

Hey guys, just wondered if you thought it would be possible to change the cams then drop off the sump, split the gearbox off n drop the crank, Rods n pistons out the bottom. Put pistons n rods on to the 1.3 crank n reassemble in reverse. reason for asking is I dont have a crane n no way of getting one. also I like to keep the original motor (auto block) hence no engine swapping . Cheers in advance guys.
 
this was my plan, i cant see any reason why it wouldnt be a resonable method, tho getting those pistons back in through the bottom of the engine would be a messy job lol, plenty of hands needed there id say.
 
I use a little jig that wraps around the piston n rings. Slide down the piston carefuly as you insert into the bores. Rings stay in place perfectly aslong as you lube everythin up well enough. Lil tip from workin on fiddly 2 stroke motorbikes. Comes apart aswell if ya need. Although id like to see if I can drop the crank without pulling the pistons down past the rings.
 
I use a little jig that wraps around the piston n rings. Slide down the piston carefuly as you insert into the bores. Rings stay in place perfectly aslong as you lube everythin up well enough. Lil tip from workin on fiddly 2 stroke motorbikes. Comes apart aswell if ya need. Although id like to see if I can drop the crank without pulling the pistons down past the rings.

What im saying bud is that theres a lip at the bottom of a bore on a CG engine so the piston cannont be removed from the bottom / crank end. only out the top
 
Like I say I dont want them to come right out. Just needs to be far enough to unbolt the rods from the crank
you can remove the crank without touching the pistons, but you need to remove the side cover too tho (and hence the engine mount)
 
can't pull pistons from below cos of this lip edge that forms the main bearing as skinner mentioned, pistons can only be removed from above with head off

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to swap the crank with the block still mounted to the chassis will be very very difficult.

cos the crankshaft goes through the lower timing cover and the rear crank seal, you have to remove both these ends before ur able to drop the crank.
removing the lower timing cover requires detaching the RH engine mount, crank pulley, timing cover and then reattachingthe mount.
removing the rear main seal requires removing the gearbox & fly.
then you'd have to remove the head cos the pistons only come out from above.
then with the gearbox removed (which supported the engines LH) you'd have to find a way of supporting the LH of the engine block and stop it from rolling back forth.
then undo the crankcage bolts and carefully lower the crankcage and weighty crankshaft.
THEN go through basically a full rebuild sequence to fit the new crank and everything else.

imho I'd suggest either lowering the whole engine/gearbox assembly off the car via several jacks or hire/borrow a crane briefly for few quid, rebuild the engine away from the car and reinstall with the crane or jacks.
 
aye, the piston will poke out the top of the block about 15mm :)

Nice one mate. New youd appear with the answer I need. So plan of action would be to remove the head, sump n timing cover, split the gearbox, drop the crank, lift out pistons n rods. 1l pistons on 1.3 rods. Pistons back in, 1.3 crank in. Set timing. Finish remainder in reverse of previous?
 
Nice one mate. New youd appear with the answer I need. So plan of action would be to remove the head, sump n timing cover, split the gearbox, drop the crank, lift out pistons n rods. 1l pistons on 1.3 rods. Pistons back in, 1.3 crank in. Set timing. Finish remainder in reverse of previous?
aye :) you could lift the short block out with ease tho tbh (engine minus the head)
 
Little more than id thought for. Might have to find a crane for a while.
i never use a crane personally (gonna change my engine tomorrow actually :) ) but it means removing the bumper tho.
then the complete engine can be humped over the lower cross member no probs
 
Il do it which ever way is easiest at the time. Deffo gotta be done. You know what ball park I shoud be looking at for the crank, rods n piston. Been offered the crank alone for 120 at local scrappie? Bout right price?
 
Il do it which ever way is easiest at the time. Deffo gotta be done. You know what ball park I shoud be looking at for the crank, rods n piston. Been offered the crank alone for 120 at local scrappie? Bout right price?
thats expensive eh, but yards dont like breaking engines tho eh, they prefer to sell it complete
 
Cool cool. Migh hav to get a donor engine then. I know separating them is a pain. Will drill some holes in my piston jig to remove the gudgeon pins
 
i bought a bottom half of an engine from a scrappers for £50. block, sump and internals. they took the head off then and there.
 
just a thuoght as well..... are the 1.3L valves any bigger? ive got a 1.3L head thats going on mine, just trying to save ppl money if the heads are identical apart from cams.
 
hang on, just been reading through this and now im confused. the plan i had was to buy a 1.0 and dump 1.3 crank and cams in, but now it seems that wouldnt work? id need to fit 1.3 rods in too?
 
hang on, just been reading through this and now im confused. the plan i had was to buy a 1.0 and dump 1.3 crank and cams in, but now it seems that wouldnt work? id need to fit 1.3 rods in too?
My understanding was you just fit the 1.0 flat top pistons in a 1.3
 
Aah well, nevermind. Itll still get done one way or another. :) plus if the heads gotta come off anyway I may as well use it as an excuse to get some head work done at the same time lol
 
yeah the other rods are way too long (as Frank said).

any offers for use or loan of a gudgeon pin press and piston holder?! won't need until feb now!
 
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