help car oversteering!!

Finto_GX

Finto_GX

hi,
on two roundabouts tonight the car oversteered, the ground was slightly damp, this has NEVER happened before , also when i take off i notice alot more wheel spin, tyres are in good condition, would have my car on daewoo matiz setup with perch drop be doing this? i also have strut brace and rear adj panhard

let me know asap please
thanks
 
Finto_GX said:
hi,
on two roundabouts tonight the car oversteered, the ground was slightly damp, this has NEVER happened before , also when i take off i notice alot more wheel spin, tyres are in good condition, would have my car on daewoo matiz setup with perch drop be doing this? i also have strut brace and rear adj panhard

let me know asap please
thanks
Click to expand...
Could be high rear tyre pressure/low front tyre pressure
Bald tyres?
 
my red k11 was dangerously loose at the back finto, with matiz front legs too!
i assumed it was the rear a/r/b, but tests with the titanium a/r/b on my white car disproved that
 
i went out and investigated all the steering bushes and they all look ok, jacked it up and spun the passenger wheel and there is a grumble when i spin it, is this the wheel bearing or cv joint yous reckon? could the wheel be locking up on tight cornering ie roundabout
 
Finto_GX said:
hi,
on two roundabouts tonight the car oversteered, the ground was slightly damp, this has NEVER happened before , also when i take off i notice alot more wheel spin, tyres are in good condition, would have my car on daewoo matiz setup with perch drop be doing this? i also have strut brace and rear adj panhard

let me know asap please
thanks
Click to expand...

Just slow down ;) admittedly it shouldn't oversteer drastically much, but if you're lifting of throttle mid corner you will get oversteer
 
Check the sand plate behind the disc then way the wheel on grab it top and bottom and c if there eney play ul need a 32 r 34mm shocket to check center nut
 
chris b said:
Check the sand plate behind the disc then way the wheel on grab it top and bottom and c if there eney play ul need a 32 r 34mm shocket to check center nut
Click to expand...
English please? Also it's a 30mm or 32mm socket. Grumbling suggests a wheel bearing, as brakes would be squeeking and cv's a knock or tick.

Bearings are very unlikely to be the cause, although it will need looking at.
 
i will check tyre pressures today, getting a free hub with bearing so going to give that a try and see what happens, also i got the car tracked at the weekend and have driven it for a few days and have gone faster around roundabouts and it was perfect? also there was a wheel wobble once i got over 60mph since i got the car ?
 
How did the oversteer happen?
And what's the full set up of the car? (I know matiz fronts from your original post)
As said above incorrect tyre pressure can cause it, too soft a front spring or too stiff a rear spring (although excess wheel spin is too soft a rear spring)
Or it could be simplt driver error (nobody's perfect)
There are so many variables hence I ask how it happened?

My assumption being;
Going round a roundabout and releasing throttle mid way round?
Causing a sudden weight transfer and lightening the load of rear tyres
 
set up is
matiz front struts with perch drop
front adj strut brace
newly fitted drilled/grooved discs
new pads
rear adj panhard
rear corsa b shocks
3 1/2 coils cut off rear springs


no it is definitely not the speed or driver ever as i went around the roundabout again at 20 mph and it started to flick at the back
 
Enuo said:
That's your problem then, weight shifted forward due to engine braking, weight off the rears loses you grip. Try again with constant partial throttle and see if its any better
Click to expand...
Struggling to see it at 20mph unless it was 1st gear :/
 
Enuo said:
I guess, although I'm guessing rears are chopped springs and corsa b's and they'll be VERY hard compared to stock matiz shock and springs...
Click to expand...
Couldn't possibly say I've no experience matey. But if that's the case the strength of the springs will amplify the weight transfer :)
 
im changinf the wheel bearings and cv joint during the week , well see how that hows, ive done other test runs of acceleating through, 40mph brake before and turn in and still she kicks out
 
Huggy444 said:
Recommended psi will be quite high (36 ish at least?) you want like 32 front and 30 rear cold psi

Edit: for grip anyway
Click to expand...
Seconded
Anything over 34-36 is too high in such a light car
A lower psi will make the tyre more forgiving
Which in this cold weather is fairly essential
 
no there seriously is a problem, not conditions or style of driving, even going around fast flowing bends i can feel the front ever so slightly sliding, handbrake isnt as tight as usual either ? more and more problems!
 
i wonder if you've got a tyre thats contaminated with oil. ive got one and it gives really unpredictable handling. sometimes its fine and i do my normal road speed, but sometimes the tyre locks up when i'm really light on the brake, and understeers in unusual situations.
 
frank said:
so its understeering then ?
Click to expand...

its a bit off both now, mostly over steer but on some occasions the front is now sliding, getting it over a pit during the week to have a good look around, picking up passenger driveshaft, hub and driver side caliper during the week and see if they make a difference, rear hubs will be coming off to for a look! what do you mean by contaminated by oil?
 
Finto_GX said:
its a bit off both now, mostly over steer but on some occasions the front is now sliding, getting it over a pit during the week to have a good look around, picking up passenger driveshaft, hub and driver side caliper during the week and see if they make a difference, rear hubs will be coming off to for a look! what do you mean by contaminated by oil?
Click to expand...

You're car sounds like a death trap ;)
 
Finto_GX said:
its a bit off both now, mostly over steer but on some occasions the front is now sliding, getting it over a pit during the week to have a good look around, picking up passenger driveshaft, hub and driver side caliper during the week and see if they make a difference, rear hubs will be coming off to for a look! what do you mean by contaminated by oil?
Click to expand...
Have you had camber and toe set at a garage since you fitted the chassis legs? After I dropped mine I had nearly 8 degrees of toe out, made for some dreadful handling (contributed to my kerb incident), drove like an absolute dream after
 
Finto_GX said:
its a bit off both now, mostly over steer but on some occasions the front is now sliding
Click to expand...
When does it understeer? Constant throttle or sudden throttle?

I'm now voting;
- Too stiff a setup overall
- Tyre pressure incorrect (1psi makes a massive difference)
- Wheel alignment is out. No more than 2 degrees toe out is ever necessary
 
i brought it to a tracking place to get tracked and they said it was too low to be tracked as the couldnt get there lasers onto my wheel as the arch is slighty over the tyre so the tracked by eyee, made a difference, went around the roundabout again in the dry, not as bad but still twitchy, really think its the bearing as when i go above 60mph the wheel shakes
 
Finto_GX said:
i brought it to a tracking place to get tracked and they said it was too low to be tracked as the couldnt get there lasers onto my wheel as the arch is slighty over the tyre so the tracked by eyee, made a difference, went around the roundabout again in the dry, not as bad but still twitchy, really think its the bearing as when i go above 60mph the wheel shakes
Click to expand...
I got mine done by a company called FCM, it's a proper motorsport company. I found them through piston heads, they might be able to help you find a place near you?
 

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