cylinder head prob
- Thread starter asdame
- Start date
phoned afew local machining shops but said its tricky as the thin shims would tend to pop off the grinding table.
phoned Humphris dealership but they only have two in stock, 1 within March, and rest is back ordered and they cost round £6 each plus delivery from oxford.
so i'm gona settle with ordering 14 shims from me local nissan dealers this weekend at £5 each (£70 total). reckin i have to fork me cash out again.
phoned Humphris dealership but they only have two in stock, 1 within March, and rest is back ordered and they cost round £6 each plus delivery from oxford.
so i'm gona settle with ordering 14 shims from me local nissan dealers this weekend at £5 each (£70 total). reckin i have to fork me cash out again.
Alienfish360
Awesome Dawson
I had a quote for having shims made by a local head tuning garage to fit fast road cams.
And to put it simply, it was expensive very, about £10 per shim, mainly due to labour, the shims need to be hardened too
And to put it simply, it was expensive very, about £10 per shim, mainly due to labour, the shims need to be hardened too
hi here's an update.
ordered the new shims & new susp arm bolts from nissan 2 weeks ago, came to total of £90 with vat, ouch.
received me new susp & track rod off ebay
in trying to force the susp arm bolt it seems that the bolt is seized solid to the inner rubber bush so it had to be grinded off.
i started by grinding the bolt head off.
still didn't budge so i cut the susp arm off the bush for more access
finally got the thing off
i had a little oops with the grinder, seems fine
new susp & track rod fitted
assembled the uprights. screwdiver holding the susp while i wait for the new bolts from nissan
yess the new bolts arrived and the full suspensions built now.
new bolt
amazingly on saturday I decided to ring nissan bout if my parts arrived, and the guy sounded astonished cos the very moment I rang him, my invoice was just being printed on his machine :laugh:
installed the new shims and checked the clearances relative to the nissan spec. here's a graph of old vs new clearances.
notice the green & red line shows its now closer to the spec
checked compression and its now at 13-13.5 psi (green line)
well, now all i do is just tack weld the thermostat together to run the engine and get a garage to spot weld me new front chassis on
ordered the new shims & new susp arm bolts from nissan 2 weeks ago, came to total of £90 with vat, ouch.
received me new susp & track rod off ebay
in trying to force the susp arm bolt it seems that the bolt is seized solid to the inner rubber bush so it had to be grinded off.
i started by grinding the bolt head off.
still didn't budge so i cut the susp arm off the bush for more access
finally got the thing off
i had a little oops with the grinder, seems fine
new susp & track rod fitted
assembled the uprights. screwdiver holding the susp while i wait for the new bolts from nissan
yess the new bolts arrived and the full suspensions built now.
new bolt
amazingly on saturday I decided to ring nissan bout if my parts arrived, and the guy sounded astonished cos the very moment I rang him, my invoice was just being printed on his machine :laugh:
installed the new shims and checked the clearances relative to the nissan spec. here's a graph of old vs new clearances.
notice the green & red line shows its now closer to the spec
checked compression and its now at 13-13.5 psi (green line)
well, now all i do is just tack weld the thermostat together to run the engine and get a garage to spot weld me new front chassis on
so if i read the graphs right, it was better compression before the re-build!!!
spot welding the front panel on isn't essential, just hire a mig welder and simply tack it in place. the main structure of it bolts in place anyway. just tack it so it stays put, no need to keep it neat as it'll not be seen.
spot welding the front panel on isn't essential, just hire a mig welder and simply tack it in place. the main structure of it bolts in place anyway. just tack it so it stays put, no need to keep it neat as it'll not be seen.
yea more compression beforehand, prob due to the amount of sooty crud that was round the pistons and valves providing more seal, but at least the misfiring's fixed now.
i'd better check out the cost of a simple spot weld down the local garage compared to hiring a mig weld which is prob £60 a weekend overall (inc mask n clothes).
tis just simply towin car to garage, drill off old frame, spot weld new one on, tow it back home. front end is all disassembled ready neway.
ah pants. i checked about weldin the thermostat together and the guy says it seems to be made of plated mild steel so after weldin it'll just rust at the first sign of water
bahh. waste of a £5 partco thermostat that's wrong spec.
neway i rang nissan and i'll get an official one on wed for £10
i'd better check out the cost of a simple spot weld down the local garage compared to hiring a mig weld which is prob £60 a weekend overall (inc mask n clothes).
tis just simply towin car to garage, drill off old frame, spot weld new one on, tow it back home. front end is all disassembled ready neway.
ah pants. i checked about weldin the thermostat together and the guy says it seems to be made of plated mild steel so after weldin it'll just rust at the first sign of water
bahh. waste of a £5 partco thermostat that's wrong spec.
neway i rang nissan and i'll get an official one on wed for £10
awriight
i picked up me new nissan thermostat tday for a tenner
installed & filled the system up
fired it up and it's alive!!:grinning:
Yea baby! running a lil quieter and the valve ticking noise is gone now.
just the front chassis to replace and i'll finally have my first car to drive.
i picked up me new nissan thermostat tday for a tenner
installed & filled the system up
fired it up and it's alive!!:grinning:
Yea baby! running a lil quieter and the valve ticking noise is gone now.
just the front chassis to replace and i'll finally have my first car to drive.
thx m8. i'm surprised myself that I might get this finished earlier than the planned april before my bday.
just afew minor bits left to do after i've done the chassis but overall the major difficult stuff is done.
major thanks to you james for helpin with the cylinder head:grinning:
the membership deals tempting dunno if i'll have enough after insurance, mot, tax, tyres, etc near skint.
elephant insurance quoted me £622 with £150 volutary for 10mth bonus accelerator, eek. although this is my first car and first insurance.
just afew minor bits left to do after i've done the chassis but overall the major difficult stuff is done.
major thanks to you james for helpin with the cylinder head:grinning:
the membership deals tempting
dunno if i'll have enough after insurance, mot, tax, tyres, etc near skint.elephant insurance quoted me £622 with £150 volutary for 10mth bonus accelerator, eek. although this is my first car and first insurance.
ouch
btw in getting my car fixed at the local garage i originally thought about lettin em tow me car there with those trucks that lift both front wheels up but m8 said they're expensive.
he suggested me sister could tow me there with a rope. since the car's SORNed and not insured is that even possible?
also the crossmember is slightly bucklin from the jack so i question if it's even safe.
btw in getting my car fixed at the local garage i originally thought about lettin em tow me car there with those trucks that lift both front wheels up but m8 said they're expensive.
he suggested me sister could tow me there with a rope. since the car's SORNed and not insured is that even possible?
also the crossmember is slightly bucklin from the jack so i question if it's even safe.
ooh i just had a thought bout why me exhaust used to smoke few minute after starting and i think it was cos of water in the backbox boiling off by the hot gases. when i took it out i remember hearin water sloshing around. all the liquid was sucked out eventually and could explain why its not smoking anymore.
yes
although mine wasn't like thick smoke that stays in air as in leaking coolant/oil being burnt. twas more similar to when ya kettle boils.
meh, tis fixed now.
hmm due to weather forcasts it looks like the chassis welding won't happen till early april, can only do it on saturdays see.
although mine wasn't like thick smoke that stays in air as in leaking coolant/oil being burnt. twas more similar to when ya kettle boils.
meh, tis fixed now.
hmm due to weather forcasts it looks like the chassis welding won't happen till early april, can only do it on saturdays see.
worked on me rear brakes tday.
took calipers n disc off but this right hand disc took more work as it was a little stuck on. wd40 & hammering helped.
on the back of the right disc i notice the built up rust which ate into the pads so only 3/4 of the surface was used to brake
the outer pads alot thinner than the inner pads. maybe caused by the sticking guide pins prior to the project. so the inner pads use to retracted away nicely but the outer pads wold still be held against the disc by the seized guides therefore slowly wearing em away.
here's the inner pad where the top portion is notched from the rust on the disc.
the left disc seems ok
chipped the rust off the right disc. lil rough but better for the new pads i figure.
left mirror had a big crack so thats all epoxied together now.
btw i've also videoed the cars exhaust. vid1 is startup from cold and there's minimal smoke. vid2 is after 5mins once the engines up to temp and the exhaust begins to smoke, especially in vid3 when i rev it.
could you confirm my suspician that it's just water in the silencer?
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=I5MRBO0K
took calipers n disc off but this right hand disc took more work as it was a little stuck on. wd40 & hammering helped.
on the back of the right disc i notice the built up rust which ate into the pads so only 3/4 of the surface was used to brake
the outer pads alot thinner than the inner pads. maybe caused by the sticking guide pins prior to the project. so the inner pads use to retracted away nicely but the outer pads wold still be held against the disc by the seized guides therefore slowly wearing em away.
here's the inner pad where the top portion is notched from the rust on the disc.
the left disc seems ok
chipped the rust off the right disc. lil rough but better for the new pads i figure.
left mirror had a big crack so thats all epoxied together now.
btw i've also videoed the cars exhaust. vid1 is startup from cold and there's minimal smoke. vid2 is after 5mins once the engines up to temp and the exhaust begins to smoke, especially in vid3 when i rev it.
could you confirm my suspician that it's just water in the silencer?
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=I5MRBO0K
Fordy
Ex. Club Member
dont put new pads in with the rear disks like that! or you will just mess up the pads and they will be the same again
new rear disks are needed or get them skimed but the cost of skiming and buy new ones is so small you might aswell buy new off ebay or something
when ever you see rear disks going slighty rusty where the pads grip on the disk just drive and apply the handbrake once you twice and they should clean up and stop the build up you have there which means new disks
just looked at them vids, and the cars been standing and not driven for awhile, so all it probably needs is to be driven for a while to clear it out
new rear disks are needed or get them skimed but the cost of skiming and buy new ones is so small you might aswell buy new off ebay or something
when ever you see rear disks going slighty rusty where the pads grip on the disk just drive and apply the handbrake once you twice and they should clean up and stop the build up you have there which means new disks
just looked at them vids, and the cars been standing and not driven for awhile, so all it probably needs is to be driven for a while to clear it out
can't find any bare micra rear disc at the mo although there's a set of disc&pads for £47 but'll give it a miss cos brakes work fine.
thx for the exhaust advise
ah heck. just transferring all the bolts from the old front chassis to the new chassis i discovered that the holes on the crossmember for bolting the PAS pipe bracket onto is missing the threaded bit that's usually welded from the inside, WTF did the manufacturer forget it? what am i gona bolt this bracket onto now?
thx for the exhaust advise
ah heck. just transferring all the bolts from the old front chassis to the new chassis i discovered that the holes on the crossmember for bolting the PAS pipe bracket onto is missing the threaded bit that's usually welded from the inside, WTF did the manufacturer forget it?
what am i gona bolt this bracket onto now?
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
ah heck. just transferring all the bolts from the old front chassis to the new chassis i discovered that the holes on the crossmember for bolting the PAS pipe bracket onto is missing the threaded bit that's usually welded from the inside, WTF did the manufacturer forget it?
Thats strange, when I did my micra that has PAS it was fine but probably depends on who and where you got it from
Alienfish360
Awesome Dawson
nice job with this, but is it just me thinking that fast road cams should have gone in with new shims being needed anyway?
James
Chairman
See here for more info:
http://www.fusion-motorsport.co.uk/...acturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,28/
ta for info james. £225 for em cams! lol not on my budget.
yea Ed my rear right disc is in a manky but functional state. the bad face of the disc could be resurfaced couldn't it? (might as well do all four disc if i was).
you know any suppliers of rear discs if i go down the other route?..
ok i found a pair from Brakes International (where i got my new rear calipers too) for £45 inc vat.
here's a pic of the cover being painted. gorgeous
yea Ed my rear right disc is in a manky but functional state. the bad face of the disc could be resurfaced couldn't it? (might as well do all four disc if i was).
you know any suppliers of rear discs if i go down the other route?..
ok i found a pair from Brakes International (where i got my new rear calipers too) for £45 inc vat.
here's a pic of the cover being painted. gorgeous
damn i made a right mess of my paintwork last night. i sprayed afew layers of hammerite cos some areas looked abit thin, then before bed i finished off with some laquer, BAD move.
this morning the laquer surface seemed fine but nudge it hard and the still soft paint underneath would come off like wet putty.
bah, gota blast it all of again grrr
does anyone know if the engine cover internals can be disassembled?
i got most the paint off now but from all that sand blasting there's some sand in the cover and prob clingin to the oily surfaces inside too.
i wanna take it apart to remove all sand inside but looks like the plate and cover r riveted & silicon sealed together.
...
can't get the plate off so instead i flushed the sand out as much as possible.
removed all paint, dried surface and now i'm slowly painting it again in thin layers.
this morning the laquer surface seemed fine but nudge it hard and the still soft paint underneath would come off like wet putty.
bah, gota blast it all of again grrr
does anyone know if the engine cover internals can be disassembled?
i got most the paint off now but from all that sand blasting there's some sand in the cover and prob clingin to the oily surfaces inside too.
i wanna take it apart to remove all sand inside but looks like the plate and cover r riveted & silicon sealed together.
...
can't get the plate off so instead i flushed the sand out as much as possible.
removed all paint, dried surface and now i'm slowly painting it again in thin layers.
ohh yes. i've finally arranged a body repair garage (K&P Andersons) to weld me front panel on friday so fingers XX it'll go fine. most of the garages i rang around here didn't do body repair and one told me to take the new panel there before quoting me (no thx m8, i needed this doin this week cos i only have saturdays free ya see)
i had to get friday off work cos they're only open weekdays but they can do the spotwelds like whenever, also align me steering and they can also tow the car there too.
i had to get friday off work cos they're only open weekdays but they can do the spotwelds like whenever, also align me steering and they can also tow the car there too.
well, me cars finally towed off. I miss it already as the me garage is empty.
now that the engine side is sorted, check over to me other relevent post about the rusted front cross member to see it's progress.
http://micra.org.uk/t12576-p-fill-or-weld-rusty-front-member.html
now that the engine side is sorted, check over to me other relevent post about the rusted front cross member to see it's progress.
http://micra.org.uk/t12576-p-fill-or-weld-rusty-front-member.html
hey
just keep ya updated bout the engine
now that the cars complete, i thought i'd do a compression test tday
drove it out the garage n removed the spark plugs. to my horror they all looked kinda sooty black n wet Oh my god please don't let it be a leakin piston ring cos that would be another long expensive job.
compression test showed cyl 1&4 is 14.5bar and cyl 2-3 is 13.5bar, large deviation there.
readin haynes manual it did say bring eng up to temp before the test, doh
so went up n down back alley to warm up engine and also test me abs
once hot i removed the plugs (ouch they're hot) and they look much much better, brown tan n clean.
compressions now improved, cyl 1-4 = 14.5bar and cyl 2-3 = 14bar
thank god for that
here's a graph of the engine compression history
note bout the test:
when i was crankin the eng, the compression gauge showed the cylinder only built up to full pressure gradually like after 3-4 strokes. 1st stroke is round 12bar, 2nd strokes round 13.2bar, 3rd stokes 14bar then 4th stroke at full 14.5bar
does that look normal?
......................................................................................................
omg guys i found the solution for my idle issue. maybe helpful for those who have fast idle when engines warm.
since i brought the car it always idles very slow from cold start at round 400rpm and once engine's warm it gradually rises up to 1000rpm, an idle rev range of upto 600rpm, no matter what the idle adjustment screw is set at (allen key screw at back of TB)
idle speed should be at 600-700rpm
- if i set the cold idle rev to 600rpm it would later rises upto 1200rpm
- if i set the warm idle rev to 600rpm, from cold the engine would barely sustain itself without pressin the acc pedal to help
the adjustment screw would usually be half-way out till i found this solution
neway
googlin around the fast idle issue, i noticed some pages mentioning problems with the idle speed control valve (that device at front of the TB)
back during overhaul i'd left mine on cos i could'nt get the tight screws off but since i've now got an impact screw driver i took the device out tday to inspect it
the TB housing
sure enough the valve has a slight carbon buildup which could've affected it's function
i unscrewed the plastic motor housing section from the valve end and turnin the valve by hand seemed lil stiff at first but soon loosened.
i proceeded to clean the valve surfaces so that it turns more freely, reassembled and reinstalled onto TB
the cold engine would normally start off slowly but with the same idle screw setting and the overhauled idle control valve the revs immediately went upto 1100rpm
so i screwed in the idle screw clockwise till it's all the way in (effectively closing that pathway and diverting all the air through the idle control valve)
started it up, it instantly revs to 1000rpm to warm the engine up then drops down to 600rpm and stabilizes
woohooo the engines runnin absolutely perfect now:grinning:
oh while i was taking the airbox out the pcv breather port broke off
so glued it back on, oops
just keep ya updated bout the engine
now that the cars complete, i thought i'd do a compression test tday
drove it out the garage n removed the spark plugs. to my horror they all looked kinda sooty black n wet
Oh my god please don't let it be a leakin piston ring cos that would be another long expensive job.compression test showed cyl 1&4 is 14.5bar and cyl 2-3 is 13.5bar, large deviation there.
readin haynes manual it did say bring eng up to temp before the test, doh
so went up n down back alley to warm up engine and also test me abs
once hot i removed the plugs (ouch they're hot) and they look much much better, brown tan n clean.
compressions now improved, cyl 1-4 = 14.5bar and cyl 2-3 = 14bar
thank god for that
here's a graph of the engine compression history
note bout the test:
when i was crankin the eng, the compression gauge showed the cylinder only built up to full pressure gradually like after 3-4 strokes. 1st stroke is round 12bar, 2nd strokes round 13.2bar, 3rd stokes 14bar then 4th stroke at full 14.5bar
does that look normal?
......................................................................................................
omg guys i found the solution for my idle issue. maybe helpful for those who have fast idle when engines warm.
since i brought the car it always idles very slow from cold start at round 400rpm and once engine's warm it gradually rises up to 1000rpm, an idle rev range of upto 600rpm, no matter what the idle adjustment screw is set at (allen key screw at back of TB)
idle speed should be at 600-700rpm
- if i set the cold idle rev to 600rpm it would later rises upto 1200rpm
- if i set the warm idle rev to 600rpm, from cold the engine would barely sustain itself without pressin the acc pedal to help
the adjustment screw would usually be half-way out till i found this solution
neway
googlin around the fast idle issue, i noticed some pages mentioning problems with the idle speed control valve (that device at front of the TB)
back during overhaul i'd left mine on cos i could'nt get the tight screws off but since i've now got an impact screw driver i took the device out tday to inspect it
the TB housing
sure enough the valve has a slight carbon buildup which could've affected it's function
i unscrewed the plastic motor housing section from the valve end and turnin the valve by hand seemed lil stiff at first but soon loosened.
i proceeded to clean the valve surfaces so that it turns more freely, reassembled and reinstalled onto TB
the cold engine would normally start off slowly but with the same idle screw setting and the overhauled idle control valve the revs immediately went upto 1100rpm
so i screwed in the idle screw clockwise till it's all the way in (effectively closing that pathway and diverting all the air through the idle control valve)
started it up, it instantly revs to 1000rpm to warm the engine up then drops down to 600rpm and stabilizes
woohooo the engines runnin absolutely perfect now:grinning:
oh while i was taking the airbox out the pcv breather port broke off
so glued it back on, oops
Alienfish360
Awesome Dawson
on the AAC Valve if you put a multimeter across pins 2 and 3 then 3 and 4 both readings should be between 50-100ohms I had a fault with one of mine reading 104ohms and had idle problems
Alienfish360
Awesome Dawson
I never had idle problems when the car isn't running
It affected it both cold and warm, more noticeably when it was cold
It affected it both cold and warm, more noticeably when it was cold
Alienfish360
Awesome Dawson
with the engine off measure the resistance of the pins, takes 2 minutes to do. Unplug it and meter it.
It's just a check of the electronic circuit.
It's just a check of the electronic circuit.
guys i've just done a fuel consumption test this week and my calcs show that it's only doin up to 25mpg? (19.85L took me 123miles)
that's with some urban driving and some 60mph backroads.
although this evening i had to kane it back to work cos forgotton to take book home.
does that look correct for a 1.3 92k engine? or is she drinkin loads
goin to work and back is bout 28miles = £3.85 a day
trains are £3.10 return
so it's cheaper by train?!
that's with some urban driving and some 60mph backroads.
although this evening i had to kane it back to work cos forgotton to take book home.
does that look correct for a 1.3 92k engine? or is she drinkin loads
goin to work and back is bout 28miles = £3.85 a day
trains are £3.10 return
so it's cheaper by train?!
just been driving upto newcastle n back tday with family. gear knob is really annoying when in 5th cos it buzzes like hell, halfway through journey i screwed the ###### off but was tricky downshiftin with just a prickly threaded shaft. put it back on the way home but I constantly held onto the knob to stop vibration...i must replace it with a nissan rubber knob soon
the car struggles to reach 70 on flats and definately struggles for 60 uphill, floorin it does nothing except waste fuel.
she just has no more torque after 3k rpm
maybe the engine's just showin its age?
the car struggles to reach 70 on flats and definately struggles for 60 uphill, floorin it does nothing except waste fuel.
she just has no more torque after 3k rpm
maybe the engine's just showin its age?
you have serious problems if your 1.3 struggles to get to 70mph on flat road, i'd get a new engine!
seems a shame after all the work youve done but i think your engine is fubar
oh god i hope not. i'll stick with it for now, works ok for town and going to work. tis just that it's not feelin 100% on long cruises or maybe it's cos i'm only using 3/4 throttle. i dunno, it's early stages here.
btw when turning each wheel you could hear the brakes just touchin/scrapin the disc so they don't like turn really freely (brakes r not 100% retracted off the surface), could that have contributed to low mpg or is that the norm?
btw when turning each wheel you could hear the brakes just touchin/scrapin the disc so they don't like turn really freely (brakes r not 100% retracted off the surface), could that have contributed to low mpg or is that the norm?
Fordy
Ex. Club Member
brakes will be ok aslong as the wheel spins freely not as free as when the pistons been pushed in but free not binding heavily
did you put new piston rings in? if so take the engine easy for 1000 miles ish to let the rings bed in you will start to see over a period of time the fuel economy going up closer to 1000 miles as they will have beded in.
my advice is to take it for a long drive say 200 miles to give it a good run
if it doesnt get better after you've done a fair amount of miles then start to look at possibably a mass air flow sensor, also it might be a good idea to get the ecu cleared at nissan like idle vol and self learning stuff since i doubt you've done that yet
wheels r moving, not heavy binding as you say, just the pads r touchin the surface, might regrease the guides sometime.
same piston rings, they were just cleaned n put back in. i fear that it maybe causing blow-by and losing compression hence HP under stress. could that explain the gradual (over 3-4 strokes) rather than instant peak pressure readings during the compression testing?
maybe i should try the "drip 5ml oil in cylinder" compression test procedure to verify a possible worn ring? (would burning the oil off be OK for the cat?)
omg it could mean another engine rebuild if it's true
ah damn
googled about on Blow-by and this was a pic of a blow-by piston. worn rings would allow gases to seep past and the soot would build up along the piston skirt as well as the piston crown.
which is what mine looked like when i first took em out.
another web also describes loss of HP and fuel economy, exactly what i'm experiencing.
grr shoulda kicked myself 2 months ago for not changin those rings back then :down:
if i take off the eng head would the gasket be reusable or should i buy a new one?
#gets out calculator#
any ideas how much a set of rings are? and would the bore need treatment?
feels as though i'm back to square one
same piston rings, they were just cleaned n put back in. i fear that it maybe causing blow-by and losing compression hence HP under stress. could that explain the gradual (over 3-4 strokes) rather than instant peak pressure readings during the compression testing?
maybe i should try the "drip 5ml oil in cylinder" compression test procedure to verify a possible worn ring? (would burning the oil off be OK for the cat?)
omg it could mean another engine rebuild if it's true
ah damn
googled about on Blow-by and this was a pic of a blow-by piston. worn rings would allow gases to seep past and the soot would build up along the piston skirt as well as the piston crown.
which is what mine looked like when i first took em out.
another web also describes loss of HP and fuel economy, exactly what i'm experiencing.
grr shoulda kicked myself 2 months ago for not changin those rings back then :down:
if i take off the eng head would the gasket be reusable or should i buy a new one?
#gets out calculator#
any ideas how much a set of rings are? and would the bore need treatment?
feels as though i'm back to square one
