clutch adjustment?

i fitted a new 3 piece clutch kit about 1000-2000 miles ago but i keep on losing the free play in the clutch cable and have to slacken the adjuster off where as i would expect the clutch to wear and have to take out the slack. can anybody tell me why i have to put free play back in. or if any of you have had the same problem and if so how did you sort the problem.

ash
i have checked the cable and it is not sticking.
 
as the clutch wears and gets thinner, the PP rests closer to the fly, thrust bearing & clutch arm pushed out further which tensions the cable. this causes the bite point to raise higher till its makes the clutch slip and wearing even faster, plus a cable under constant tension wears out the thrust bearing more rapidly. so its essential to monitor the bite point and slacken the cable end to let the clutch arm & bearing move away from the PP till there's no tension when the pedal's up and the bite point is bout 1/2 way.
 
How say Pollip some of the components of clutch must be wearing clutch disc thin or sun broken, at this point when cable rise the max point it´s imposible to make adjustments.
 
as the clutch wears and gets thinner, the PP rests closer to the fly, thrust bearing & clutch arm pushed out further which tensions the cable. this causes the bite point to raise higher till its makes the clutch slip and wearing even faster, plus a cable under constant tension wears out the thrust bearing more rapidly. so its essential to monitor the bite point and slacken the cable end to let the clutch arm & bearing move away from the PP till there's no tension when the pedal's up and the bite point is bout 1/2 way.

when the clutch wears it moves further from the thrust bearing and arm as the arm is pulled back by the return spring away the clutch which means that i should have to take slack out not put it in is this not right ?
 
when the clutch wears it moves further from the thrust bearing and arm as the arm is pulled back by the return spring away the clutch which means that i should have to take slack out not put it in is this not right ?

yea the cable should be getting taught as the clutch wears thinner. only ways i think the cable could get looser over a period of operation are:
- clutch cable locknut not tightened, allowing the thumb screw nut to unscrew when under engine vibration & cable tension
- clutch pedal end stopper lock nut is loose, allowing the bolt to be gradually pushed/unscrewed back every time the pedal is released so the pedal rests higher and lso cable becomes slacker
- clutch plate is seized on the input shaft away from the fly so the PP rests further away than normal making the cable slacker

i'll draw afew diagrams m8 so bear with me...
 
ok so with a new clutch properly adjusted it works as shown

normalclutchrest.jpg
normalclutchdisengaged.jpg


and normally as the plate wears thinner the PP resting point is too high leaving a gap making the clutch slip and constantly wearing the thrust bearing cos the PP diaphram wants to push the PP against the clutch but the misadjusted clutch cable mechanism is holding it back

wornclutchunadjustedres.jpg


so you loosen the cable end to allow the PP to return pressure against the plate and the cable should then have zero tension

wornclutchadjustedrest.jpg


if the cable end lock nut was loose, it could loosen during operation & vibration

normalclutchcablediseng.jpg


so at rest, the cable would be too long n slack

normalclutchcableresten.jpg


if the pedals end stopper is loose it allows the pedal to rest higher n higher which also loosens the cable

normalclutchlooseendsto.jpg


finally if a clutch plate seizes in place on the input shaft, the PP rests too high. the clutch arm has a small return spring keeping some tension in the cable but when you push the cable end and clutch arm together they'd easily feel loose and the clutch would be slipping from having only 1/2 the contact/grip

normalclutchseizedplate.jpg
 
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