Clutch/Cable or Pedal problems?

[Andy5077]

Hi need some urgent advice please, for sometime I have had problems with the cable/clutch assembly. About 2 years ago my clutch cable snapped and I had a new one fitted, mechanic who fitted it had to put extra washers in it to get the adjustment right. Since Feb this year I have had gear change problems when the engine is warm for example 1st gear and especially reverse which grinds when trying to engage. There's too much free play in the pedal I have to floor the pedal to engage. Like I have stated this only occurs after the engine is warm, today my friend helped me replace the cable (with a blue print one) all went well and I had much better resistant in the pedal and the gears engage very smoothly.

I then went to visit a friend and a few hours later I started my car but I found I had not resistance on the clutch pedal and found it very hard to engage 1st gear (crunching noise) the clutch pedal also did not want to return and I had to assist it with my foot to return it?? I had a quick look in the engine compartment for any signs of trouble but the cable and it's run looked ok could the problem be the clutch pedal assembly the spring did not look to have much resistance??

My friend will look at it tomorrow but I would appreciate any help or suggestions what might be causing this problem, the local parts company that supplied the cable told me when I ordered it that all K11's cables are the same and also the part number was the same for all K11's is that true, I did offer the VIN number but they said it was not needed??

My Micra is a late 2002 K11 1.4SE.

Thank you for reading this thread and I look forward to your suggestion and input.

Cheers
Andy

 

[frank]

just add more packing andy, it seems to be a common issue

 

[Andy5077]

just add more packing andy, it seems to be a common issue

Hi Frank thanks for the reply, my mate has just had a look and you were right and we added a thick washer and it has done the trick! You would think you would not need to alter a brand new clutch cable, I also looked on Blue Print Live parts website and there is a different clutch cable part number for the 2002-2002 1.4 also a 2/98>1.3 shares the same clutch cable part number as the 1.4!

Thanks again for your help mate.

Cheers
Andy

 

[pollyp]

afew things to check:

pedal height
to give enough cable travel, the clutch pedals resting height should be 187-197mm from the floor on pre-facelift upto 1998 and 176mm on a facelift.

upper pedal mount
make sure the upper mount point for the clutch pedal assembly ain't damaged or bent.

when my cable got soo sticky and I just ignored and pressed abit harder, the result was ripping the hard mounts off the bulkhead which required some major repair.

https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-117#post-701561

lower pedal mount
on a manual gearbox chassis, there is a 10mm spacing bracket between the rear of the clutch pedal assembly and the bare bulkhead to give the correct cable travel range.

if the car was converted from auto to manual and the pedal wasn't fitted this spacer, it would essentially lengthen the inner cable, shorten the outer cable, drop the bite point alot, reduce the amount of adjustable useable cable travel so even if the beer cap nut was fully tightened it ain't enough tension to fully disengage the clutch.

when mine was missing after buying car, I made some basic spacers to resolve it.

also check the holes in the bulkhead ain't buckled from too much stress.

gearbox cable bracket
make sure this clutch cable support bracket at the gearbox end ain't bent.

correct cable length
nissan changed from a shorter pre-face cable 1993 - feb 1998 to a longer facelift cable from feb 1998 onwards.

lube cable wd40
if the clutch ever felt heavy/sticky/resistive, the cable is probably dried & seizing. I highly suggest that any bowden cable should be regularly oiled to keep em sliding smoothly. just remove the clutch cable, spray wd40 with straw down the gap and move the inner cable till it feels slippery & reinstall.

beer cap position
if there's any threads remaining, you can tighten this beer cap adjuster up the cable to tighten & raise the bite point. spraying wd40 on sliding bits makes it easier to move.

bite point feel
the clutch pedal bite point (when the clutch is about to move the car) should be about 1/4 - 1/2 way up from the floor.
it should fully disengage the clutch when the pedals fully down and be able to select reverse gear without crunching.

new thicker clutch
has the clutch been replaced recently? cos a new thicker clutch plate will require maximum cable tension to be able to disengage it, compared to an older thinner clutch.

if the pedal assembly is intact, cable replaced n not stretched, cable adjuster fully tight all the way but still grinds reverse, then u should remove & check/replace the clutch itself.

jk9194 has just recently discovered his clutch plate retainer springs have shattered apart inside which caused his clutch to jam on.
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/need-gearbox-or-clutxh-help-guys.60678/page-3#post-717636

 

[Andy5077]

afew things to check:

pedal height
to give enough cable travel, the clutch pedals resting height should be 187-197mm from the floor on pre-facelift upto 1998 and 176mm on a facelift.

upper pedal mount
make sure the upper mount point for the clutch pedal assembly ain't damaged or bent.

when my cable got soo sticky and I just ignored and pressed abit harder, the result was ripping the hard mounts off the bulkhead which required some major repair.

https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-117#post-701561

lower pedal mount
on a manual gearbox chassis, there is a 10mm spacing bracket between the rear of the clutch pedal assembly and the bare bulkhead to give the correct cable travel range.

if the car was converted from auto to manual and the pedal wasn't fitted this spacer, it would essentially lengthen the inner cable, shorten the outer cable, drop the bite point alot, reduce the amount of adjustable useable cable travel so even if the beer cap nut was fully tightened it ain't enough tension to fully disengage the clutch.

when mine was missing after buying car, I made some basic spacers to resolve it.

also check the holes in the bulkhead ain't buckled from too much stress.

gearbox cable bracket
make sure this clutch cable support bracket at the gearbox end ain't bent.

correct cable length
nissan changed from a shorter pre-face cable 1993 - feb 1998 to a longer facelift cable from feb 1998 onwards.

lube cable wd40
if the clutch ever felt heavy/sticky/resistive, the cable is probably dried & seizing. I highly suggest that any bowden cable should be regularly oiled to keep em sliding smoothly. just remove the clutch cable, spray wd40 with straw down the gap and move the inner cable till it feels slippery & reinstall.

beer cap position
if there's any threads remaining, you can tighten this beer cap adjuster up the cable to tighten & raise the bite point. spraying wd40 on sliding bits makes it easier to move.

View attachment 41276

bite point feel
the clutch pedal bite point (when the clutch is about to move the car) should be about 1/4 - 1/2 way up from the floor.
it should fully disengage the clutch when the pedals fully down and be able to select reverse gear without crunching.

new thicker clutch
has the clutch been replaced recently? cos a new thicker clutch plate will require maximum cable tension to be able to disengage it, compared to an older thinner clutch.

if the pedal assembly is intact, cable replaced n not stretched, cable adjuster fully tight all the way but still grinds reverse, then u should remove & check/replace the clutch itself.

jk9194 has just recently discovered his clutch plate retainer springs have shattered apart inside which caused his clutch to jam on.
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/need-gearbox-or-clutxh-help-guys.60678/page-3#post-717636

Hi mate thanks for your reply and input much appreciated I have fixed the problem with washer packers still a bit "niffed" about buying a brand new Blue Print cable and having to alter it to work!

Cheers
Andy

 

[pollyp]

no probs

 

[Carsten]

afew things to check:

pedal height
to give enough cable travel, the clutch pedals resting height should be 187-197mm from the floor on pre-facelift upto 1998 and 176mm on a facelift.

upper pedal mount
make sure the upper mount point for the clutch pedal assembly ain't damaged or bent.

when my cable got soo sticky and I just ignored and pressed abit harder, the result was ripping the hard mounts off the bulkhead which required some major repair.

https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-117#post-701561

lower pedal mount
on a manual gearbox chassis, there is a 10mm spacing bracket between the rear of the clutch pedal assembly and the bare bulkhead to give the correct cable travel range.

if the car was converted from auto to manual and the pedal wasn't fitted this spacer, it would essentially lengthen the inner cable, shorten the outer cable, drop the bite point alot, reduce the amount of adjustable useable cable travel so even if the beer cap nut was fully tightened it ain't enough tension to fully disengage the clutch.

when mine was missing after buying car, I made some basic spacers to resolve it.

also check the holes in the bulkhead ain't buckled from too much stress.

gearbox cable bracket
make sure this clutch cable support bracket at the gearbox end ain't bent.

correct cable length
nissan changed from a shorter pre-face cable 1993 - feb 1998 to a longer facelift cable from feb 1998 onwards.

lube cable wd40
if the clutch ever felt heavy/sticky/resistive, the cable is probably dried & seizing. I highly suggest that any bowden cable should be regularly oiled to keep em sliding smoothly. just remove the clutch cable, spray wd40 with straw down the gap and move the inner cable till it feels slippery & reinstall.

beer cap position
if there's any threads remaining, you can tighten this beer cap adjuster up the cable to tighten & raise the bite point. spraying wd40 on sliding bits makes it easier to move.

View attachment 41276

bite point feel
the clutch pedal bite point (when the clutch is about to move the car) should be about 1/4 - 1/2 way up from the floor.
it should fully disengage the clutch when the pedals fully down and be able to select reverse gear without crunching.

new thicker clutch
has the clutch been replaced recently? cos a new thicker clutch plate will require maximum cable tension to be able to disengage it, compared to an older thinner clutch.

if the pedal assembly is intact, cable replaced n not stretched, cable adjuster fully tight all the way but still grinds reverse, then u should remove & check/replace the clutch itself.

jk9194 has just recently discovered his clutch plate retainer springs have shattered apart inside which caused his clutch to jam on.
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/need-gearbox-or-clutxh-help-guys.60678/page-3#post-717636

Hi
Read t his with great interest cause i have same problems with a new clutch and new cable i cant adjust , cause cable
beer cap is all tighten up now on the threads on the the cable

you write : " lower pedal mount on a manual gearbox chassis, there is a 10mm spacing bracket between the rear of the clutch pedal assembly and the bare bulkhead to give the correct cable travel range."

Could you please show with an arrow on your Picture where that 10 mm spacing bracket is located ?

thanks in advance

regs
cn

 

[pollyp]