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"Café Latte" K12

OP
OP
Daheem24
New(ish) rear bumper on.

Last minute before pic:

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During:

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After:

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The mudguards were a massive pain to tuck back in behind the bumper, and I ended up cracking some of the paint along the wheel arch :cautious:.

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I also got my new stalks (with front fog switches) on, but realised that I'd bought stalks off a K12 C+C, so no rear wiper switch! The front fogs are working, mind.

Old:

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New:

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I tried taking apart the old one, to see if I could maybe change over just the wiper stalk. Realised this couldn't be done, and broke it while having a try; when reconnecting back in the car, the rear screenwash sprayer is permanently on (and rear wiper permanently wiping). So I guess there's selling that set out the window :rolleyes:

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So I've got the correct set of stalks on order.

Also got a DAS-6 Pro for £50 off Facebook Marketplace, but it's looking like it'll be hard to get a clear/dry day to actually use it.

 
OP
OP
Daheem24
Updates...

Wing mirrors painted black:


Before:

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After:

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JDM grills painted black, and fitted:

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Players 13.0 in Essex:

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Rust on the n/s rear quarter bodged:

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Redone professionally, bonnet holes filled, and bonnet painted black. Also pictures for standard vs my K12.

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Car interior shampooed and steam cleaned, to remove the 'school minibus' smell:

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Trax 2019 at Silverstone, on a clubstand with Nissan Ultimate Show Group:

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I had lots of other little plans for this car; but to be honest, I'd rather save that money for more important things (including a car which is more fun and has more of a market for enthusiasts). So I'll just be maintaining this car for now.

 
OP
OP
Daheem24
Replaced/upgraded the front speakers as the driver's side woofer blew. Also fitted some Noico sound deadening while I had everything taken apart. There's a more resounding 'doonk' sound when I shut the door, but in my opinion there isn't a reduction in outside noise and I still get door trim vibrations when the volume is high. Was worth a try though.

Pictures/videos:
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I also replaced the bubbly/melted steering wheel with one in much better nick. Before I installed it, I gave it a thorough clean, colour and clear coat using a steering wheel restoration kit.

Old:
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New:
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Also did a wash (including engine bay), tar removal, wheel polish and removed with headlight imperfections with wet & dry and DA polish:
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OP
OP
Daheem24
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Lastly, over the course of lockdown I've changed cleaned the EGR valve and changed glow plugs, all fluids and filters except for coolant, brake fluid and fuel filter.
I also replaced one of my Toyo Proxes CF2 with a Yokaham Advan V101; I wasn't really impressed with the Toyo's wear and noise, so I though it's worth trying the Advans.
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Post-lockdown, I'll be looking to get a MK5/MK6 Golf GTI and selling this as I'm after something a bit more fun to drive. ✌
 
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OP
OP
Daheem24
So the rust on the n/s rear arch resurfaced and I was faced with 2 options:
  1. Fork out for a welded arch & paint to halt the spread and commit to keeping the car for a while
  2. Sell the car as is (while it has some sort of value) and finally get myself a Golf GTI
In the interest of saving money for other things, I went with option 1. Ended up spending ~£1700, over 2 months, on paint/body, glow plugs, new injector and upgraded Superpro suspension bushes 🤦‍♂️

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While it was at the body shop, I also had a few extra bits done - like spraying and fitting the OEM side skirts, sorting out a load of dents and scratches here and there, and colour coding some interior bits.

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The welder had a bit of a disaster with the heat melting some bits on the interior. The body shop cut the total price a bit, and I dealt with it myself to save the hassle of dropping the car off again and getting a lift back/forth. This included melted wire insulation, melted rear windscreen washer pipe, melted carpet, and melted plastic trim (all sorted now).

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While the seats were out, I figured I'd try fitting some sound deadening in the rear. I went with (kind of) a layer of Noico 2mm thick sound deadening, and a layer of 10mm closed cell foam (CCF). Not sure if it's just a placebo effect, but I feel like it's quieter in the back. But now the majority of the sound is coming through the front half, and a lot of it is road noise (coilovers & low profile tyres).

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Seeing as I'm keeping the car, I figured that I should sort out some of the spots of surface rust - namely the rust between the boot lid and roof, and on the roof (due to stonechips). The former was a rough job as it can't be seen, and the latter was roughly done until I (potentially) have a full roof respray.

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On the roof, I just ground away the rust (with a dremel), rust-treated and protected with a splash of paint from a paint chip pen. Rough, but it fulfils its purpose of protecting the metal for the time being.

I also got a second key ,for a total of £91; £16 for a blank from eBay, and £75 for the programming.

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Finally, here are some pictures from a couple of meets during the short period between lockdowns.

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Side note - I post more regular updates in 'K12 Owners UK' on Facebook.
 
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How do you get the back seats out?

I read there is a clip either side on the bottom of the seat cushion but I can't see them, please any chance you can post a photo of the clips or whatever is holding the seat in?
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Daheem24
How do you get the back seats out?

I read there is a clip either side on the bottom of the seat cushion but I can't see them, please any chance you can post a photo of the clips or whatever is holding the seat in?

I've got the sliding rear seats; so there are 2 bolts at the back (you'll need to slide the seats forward), and 2 bolts at the front. All of the bolts are covered with trim pieces which are clipped on top. The trim for the front bolts were a pain to take off, so I ended up breaking them when trying to remove them (which is why I don't have them in the pictures)

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