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"Café Latte" K12

What should I do about my steering wheel?

  • Mess around with the 12SR wheel to make it fit my current (tapered) spline; keeps airbag, may fail

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Get racing wheel; easier, but won't have airbag

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
Hi all. Thought I'd give this blogging a go; I've been lurking on these forums for years following other people's builds, so why not try my own. It's going to be a bit slow to be honest, but let's see.

So I'm Daheem, I'm a 23 year old MES Engineer, I'm from Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, but now live in Liverpool.

I drive a 2005 Micra 1.5dCi (80ps) and used to drive a 1999 Micra K11 on which I stuck on some cheap alloys and never got round to fitting lowering springs (I was a student on low budget). Picture of old and current Micra, when I bought it, below.

DSC_0009.jpg


Basically I very much like cars courtesy of Hotwheels, Top Gear, Fast and Furious and Mighty Car Mods, to name a few. I don't really know how to work on them to be honest, but would love to learn and try to do things myself (at least once).

The K12 is the first car I've bought myself and I was pretty naïve: I paid a trader £1300 for it, with 151,230 miles on the clock. I travelled 2 hours for it and bought it in the dark. It had just been part exchanged the night before and hadn't been touched (not even valeted) yet. However it came with full service history and I got newbie excitement and bought it. It doesn't feel as solid and bulletproof as the K11, but it's my daily commuter and it hasn't let me down mechanically. Plan is to just run this car to the ground (as my daily driver), while I try and save up for other things, so why not take a little pride and have a bit of fun on a budget.

Pics when I bought it:

Snapchat-1528943130.jpg

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So things need(ed)/want(ed) doing:
  • Noisy (screechy) lock - FIXED - apparently common; easy fix with the help of YouTube.

  • Aerial snapped off - FIXED - apparently common; I fitted a new mount and antenna.
  • Drivers seat tilt latch snapped off - FIXED - I got a replacement latch from Nissan and it just pushed into the slot. Part number 87618BC02A.
  • Windscreen wipers banging against sides - FIXED - again, apparently common; I tried the Wipex linkages from eBay but that didn't work. In the end I ordered a replacement assembly and wiper arms off a March 12SR as part of an order I did from Japan (I'll do another post about this).
  • Clean EGR valve
  • Driver's (electric) wing mirror doesn't tilt up and down (I can hear the motor whirring, but no movement) - if anyone has any suggestions that'd be great.

I've taken inspiration from Paapz0r's Micra - with his winter steelies and coilover setup. So what I've currently done is:
  • The fixes above
  • New stereo (as per).
  • Adjustable BC Racing coilovers fitted. Will do another post about this.
  • Alloy wheels redone/refurbished and fitted. Will do another post about this.
  • JDM headlights fitted (with indicators built in)
IMG_20190319_145755.jpg


What's in the pipeline (well there's plenty, but here's the gist):
  • Sort remaining issues above
  • Get a second key/fob
  • Tidy up the paintwork and sort the few that spots. This'll be my opportunity to have a go at bodywork on a car. There are a few dents and stone chips etc. I've also got a DA polisher, so want to have a go at detailing at some point.
  • Get facelift bumpers, sideskirts and foglights off the Sport+ models.
  • Get a spoiler of some sort; either off the Sport+ models or I'm thinking one off a Nismo Juke of it fits
  • Tidy the tatty vinyl work in the interior. Maybe a vinyl paint? And the drivers door armrest is looking grim, so that needs addressing.
  • Replace the steering wheel; rubbish quality and it's just fully peeling.
  • Tint rear windows; I'd like to give it a go.
  • Get some tidier number plates. I really like the 4D acrylic plates that Utopia Plates do, but I'm put off by the fact I don't have a private reg, so might look dumb.
How it's looking now:

IMG_20190329_082225.jpg

IMG_20190329_082238.jpg
 
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Daheem24
Next up: wheels...

So I planned to just keep it pretty cheap, but I've probably spent more than I should've.

I bought these wheels off eBay for £120.

received_277837319494797.jpg


16" x 7J ET45. They came off a Nissan S12 and I sold the 205/50/R16 tyres as I wanted lower profile.

Test fitted them:

IMG_20180828_191400.jpg




IMG_20180828_190405.jpg


The intention was to (myself) make them look like this, without realising how much work this'd be::


grid1775rlgunmetal-v1-380-380.jpg


Here's the state of the wheels up close. They were pretty wrecked, with lots of curb rash:

IMG_20180902_164302.jpg

MVIMG_20180902_164308.jpg


So I got supplies (including a dremel) and got to work sanding down the edges to bare metal. I intended to work from course to fine all over, so I'd have a polished edge and then the centres ready to paint. However, I just focused on the edge first, and then ended up giving them to a professional to do the middles because of the amount of time I spent on them already. Silly hours really - probably something like a full week's worth of hours over several months in the evenings and weekends.

Washed the wheels first:

IMG_20180829_075923.jpg


Here's pics of progress. There aren't as many as I thought there'd be, but I have plenty of videos. But videos seem a pain to get onto here - I don't want to create a Flickr (Yahoo) account just for videos:

MVIMG_20181014_210735.jpg

IMG_20181014_210728.jpg

MVIMG_20190210_165648.jpg


I think the sequence of sanding was as follows:
40 grit + dremel (and several sanding drums)
80 grit
120 grit
240 grit
400 grit
800 grit
1200 grit
2000 grit
Steel wool + metal polish
Microfibre towel + metal polish

I kind of followed the guide here:
https://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/60-diy-refinishing-alloy-wheels-polished-lip/

Then I left the wheels with Lee at BLP Alloy Wheel Restore, who agreed to paid the middles a gloss black for £100:

MVIMG_20190312_181650.jpg

MVIMG_20190312_181653.jpg


Really happy with how they turned out. Although Lee didn't fill some of the chips, I'm happy with what I got for £100.

I wasn't sure about tyre sizing, so I just got some 195/45R15 part worn (pressure tested) Continental Conti Contact tyres for £104 off eBay for now. So now I have an idea of how they fit, ready for the next set of tyres.

MVIMG_20190313_221240.jpg


Finally, I got some black tuner wheel bolts eff eBay for £18. For anybody searching it's M12 x 1.5 with 60 degree taper and thread length of around 25mm.

Paapz0r got stud converters, cut the length to size, and then got tuner nuts because of the wider variety of tuner nuts available. But I'm happy with black, and the cost associated to that choice.

I took wheels and tyres to Quick Fix Tyres in Aintree (used to be my usual tyre shop), but they were just very heavy handed (on freshly painted wheels) and I just felt like they didn't have a clue. I also ordered the wrong size spigot rings (for some reason I thought the centre bore was 66.1mm rather than 60.1mm), so once wheels were balanced, I left Quick Fix for the final time and fitted the wheels myself when the spigot rings came.

Before wheels:

IMG_20190325_181008.jpg


After wheels:

IMG_20190325_182738.jpg


Next step is to try and find some centre caps which fit. I ordered these Nismo ones (I know this car really is not Nismo, but they looked the nicest out of all the Nissan/Nismo ones available) but they don't fit because they're not deep enough.

s-l500.jpg



The wheels did come with 2 centre caps; part number 40343-22F00. I can't remember if they were fitted when I bought the wheels, but they don't seem to fit now as they seem to be too large in diameter - maybe it's the thickness of the paint on the wheel? But I've almost wrecked the paint around the centre cap area on one of the wheels, after trying to get them to fit.

IMG_20190329_104246.jpg

IMG_20190329_104243.jpg


So now I've got these on order, which I would paint black to match the wheels (if they fit):

s-l1600.jpg


Lastly, I'm hoping someone here can help me identify these alloys:

IMG_20190325_165918.jpg

IMG_20190325_165913.jpg

IMG_20190325_165925.jpg

IMG_20190325_165929.jpg

IMG_20190325_165932.jpg

IMG_20190325_165940.jpg


Thank you all :D
 
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Daheem24
Next up: suspension...

So back in April 2018, I bought some fully adjustable BC Racing coilovers, off a seller called vendettibi, on eBay for £295. The ad claimed this was a full set (never used), and the only things missing were the manual and C spanners, so I reckon it was a steal.

Apologies - no pictures of what I got. I never really got round to it.

The set arrived with signs that it had been fitted, but not used. After contacting BC Racing customer support, I found out that I was also missing the rear spring perches, which I bought for £99.18.

After learning the hard way (buying the wrong size etc), I realised that I'd need 3 sizes of C spanner. So I bought 2 used ones off ebay for £27 and another from H-Tune for £13.98.

s-l1600 (1).jpg


From these forums I found that I'd also need adjustable drop links. So got these from (you guessed it) eBay for £39.95.

Snapchat-667216250.jpg


Reason I'm putting prices on is mainly for my own reference to be honest - a running costing of things I guess.

So now I was ready to have a go at fitting these coilovers myself. I had a Haynes manual and YouTube at my disposal. Despite the rain, I got out onto the drive and started jacking up the car and undoing (rusty) bolts. I got to the final set of bolts - the 2 at the bottom of the front shock - and ended up rounding one of them :cautious:. To be honest, if this wan't my daily, I would've left the car jacked up and forced myself to figure it out. But time is of the essence when you gotta drive to work on the Monday morning.

IMG_20190316_153817.jpg


So called it a day and ended up taking it to my usual mechanic, who fitted and set them up for £150. I feel like this is a lot, but I just wanted some lows ASAP.

with ~177,000 miles on the clock, the existing front shocks were sounding pretty tired (there was a loud knocking from the nearside). But this upgrade has eliminated that.

The distance from floor to wheel arch was originally ~65cm. I'm yet to measure now, but will update you once I do.

Adam, the mechanic who fit the coilovers, said that they've been set to almost the lowest they'll go. He said to get a feel for the setup now (especially with the horrendous Liverpool road) and then I can get final adjustments made, and get the wheel alignment sorted.

These coilovers have 30 levels of damping adjustment, so I currently have it set to the middle. It's literally a case of twisting a nipple at the top of the shocks (all accessible) so I'll have a little play around over the course of a couple weeks.

So it's not really as low as I'd like it, but let's see. The ride is definitely noticeably stiffer; I'm having to slow right down for speed humps (to the annoyance of ridiculously impatient drivers in Liverpool). I'm thinking: playing around with the damping might allow a bit more speed.
On the motorway, the combination of new wheels and suspension means more noise, but I personally think it's worth it and bearable. Would have been good to maybe get a dB reading before and after.

So, before lows:

IMG_20190325_182728.jpg


After lows:

IMG_20190329_082140.jpg


I'd like to protect the shocks from corrosion in some sort of way. For now, they've been drenched in WD-40. But I've heard that it'd be good to clean them with this stuff called SD0C100, and protect them with ACF50. Apparently bikers use them for their gear.

I'd like to also paint the rusty rear drums a discrete black; I don't think I want to shout about the fact I have rear drums. And I'd like to paint the front calipers a bronze sort of colour to go with the paint; again, discrete-ish.

However, it's difficult to allocate time (with good weather) after work and on weekends, when there's all other life stuff happening. Let's see how soon I manage to get this done.

Many thanks :D
 
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Daheem24
So my order from Japan...

To be honest, I just wanted the headlights with built in indicators. I knew that they came standard on K12 models in Australia and Japan. But out of the two options, I knew that I'd get cooler things from Japan If I'm gonna get parts from Japan, I might as well do a big order right?

So I ordered:
  • Headlights with built in indicators
  • Front grills with no chrome, and indicator hidden behind (pic below for example)
Nissan_March_K12_005.JPG

  • Windscreen wiper assembly, arms and wipers off a March 12SR
  • A steering wheel also off a 12SR - I think all the UK ones are so ugly and I'd like to keep the airbag, so racing wheel isn't an option.
  • Heater controls with black dials
Felt like a little kid getting presents when it all arrived in a big fat box.

IMG_20190219_193720.jpg

IMG_20190219_193755.jpg


Even got myself some "JDM newspaper" x

I used a website called DeJapan, which I thought was the best choice out of all the options for Japan proxy shopping sites.

Refer to:
http://blog.dejapan.com/2018/04/18/japan-proxy-shopping-service-compared-dejapan-fromjapan-zenmarket-buyee-samurai-buyer/?fbclid=IwAR0Yt8qdPy-ri5MHzEPfVspldnRbsGX2FBTiOL9iU9KhzSJ0972klq1NqHQ

New users get 300 yen to spend for free.

I think the parts cost ~£70 in total, then I paid another ~£50 for postage and ~£45 for customs charges. This is off the top of my head, but it did add up in the end; probably not worth it.

I'd say it took a total of around 3-4 weeks for it to arrive at my door.

The headlights wiring was done by a local auto electrician for £50. I'm perfectly happy soldering/crimping etc, but I just had no idea which wire needed connecting to which wire on the unit. Adrian at Auto Electrical Services was great, compared to the other auto electricians in the area who just ignored and didn't want to know.
Currently both old and new indicators light up, but I've noticed the "click-clock" noise of the indicator goes down in pitch after the first few clicks. I believe it's the fact that there are now 2 extra outputs for the same current, and the auto electrician advised that I disconnect the old bulbs. Buuuut, I'm kind of keen on the setup as it is.

Therefore, I probably won't use the grills I bought and will look to sell them soon.

The wipers worked a treat; I covered it in grease to try and prevent the inevitable wear which will bring back the annoying banging. But for now, I can drive in the rain in peace.

The heater dials are yet to be fitted, but I'd like to get some white LEDs to replace the bulbs currently in there (along with the instrument cluster bulbs). I understand that they may look tacky, but I'm willing to take the risk if it means no more dim orange. However, I've noticed that one of the black dials has a bit of a gouge out of it, as if somebody's been at it with some pliers. So I might look into replacing that, if breakers don't ask for too much for one. I'll stick pictures in when I take them.

The steering wheel...so I don't have a picture. but this is what it looks like:

spec_c961d2db-8210-4796-8209-708bc8c27c35_640_0.jpg


However, for some silly reason, the splines on Japan and UK models of Micra are different.

Here's what I currently have:

IMG_20190317_160328.jpg


Here's what the 12SR steering wheel looks like:

IMG_20190317_160340.jpg


So I plan to discuss the options with a metalworker/engineer with the potential of maybe welding the correct spline onto the 12SR wheel. Let's see what they say. However, I don't want to spend silly money.

Fingers crossed I can get it sorted for a reasonable price, and I'll also look into transferring over the steering stereo controls over to the 12SR wheel.

I was toying with the idea of ordering more bits from Japan, but realistically the shipping is just so pricey. Maybe if a group of people wanted to order bits together and split the cost of shipping that could work.

That's everything for my "ordering from Japan" segment.

I'm trying to figure out whether I should sand, fill and paint rust, and dings before claying, polishing etc or vice versa.

My thinking is polish first, so the paint is no longer darker than it was originally. That way, when I paint sections, the difference in shades won't be as noticeable. I'm not sure if anybody here could advise?

Now that's pretty much all updates on the car. As and when things happen, I'll just post an update. I personally just care about the pictures in other people's blogs so I'll try and make this one as pic heavy as I can.

If anybody's reading, let me know your thoughts.

Cheers :D
 
OP
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Daheem24
Update: finally found some centre caps which fit.

The Nissan ones are too small, so I'll be selling them.

These generic black ones off eBay (£6.19) are the ones that fit.

Before:

MVIMG_20190402_125827.jpg


After:

IMG_20190402_125814.jpg


However, you can see where I butchered the paint around the test wheel, so I'll need to sort that - maybe just with those paint touch up sticks/brushes:

IMG_20190402_125806.jpg


Plan is to either (if I can) unstick and stick on the Nismo ones I already have...or get a stick-on set of Nissan ones of some sort - preferably metal stick on badges.

Might be nice to also paint the caps a gloss black to match the wheels, but it might seem more effort/expense than they're worth when they seem to look alright as they are.

I measured the rear windscreen of a Nissan Juke (for the potential spoiler), and it looks like it might fit onto the Micra okay. I measured the max width at ~110cm on the Micra, and the Juke (kind of) matched that. So funds-willing, I'll sort that out at some point.

Many thanks :D
 
OP
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Daheem24
Measured my ride height...
MVIMG_20190402_132622.jpg


It's looking a bit off. So I'm thinking I'd like all corners to become 60cm from floor to wheel arch. Not sure if that's a bad idea in case I have people in the back etc - should the rear be a little higher than the front?

I also changed the damping to the softest setting on all corners. It's made loads of difference: I still feel stuck to the road, but bumps are a lot less hard. I'll just need to test the big bumps but I doubt I'll have any issues with rubbing.
 
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Daheem24
Little update: I've sorted the centre cap situation...

So I unstuck the Nismo caps from their original "mount" and stuck them onto the black ones which fit onto the wheel correctly.

IMG_20190402_214423.jpg


(Unstuck from the shiny "mount" on the bottom, onto the black at the top)

Final look:

IMG_20190403_074909.jpg

IMG_20190403_074913.jpg


Not sure if I'm massively keen to be honest. Feels a bit heavy claiming to be Nismo when it's all unidentified eBay stuff on a standard SE trim dCi model. But I've spent enough time and money on these wheels for now, and the centre caps are serving their purpose: keeping dirt out of the hubs.

Also noticed that the front offside tyre has lost 4 PSI of pressure in a week (34 down to 30), so I'll have to look into that. I know one of the front wheels had a slight buckle, so I'm not sure if that's the cause. Or maybe bad corrosion affecting the tyre seal. Or maybe just the tyre itself. But I'll go to a tyre shop on my lunch today - hopefully it's nothing too big.
 

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Daheem24
So while my car was jacked up at the tyre shop, I had a look to see what my mechanic meant when he said the suspension couldn't be set much lower.

IMG_20190403_122258.jpg


So I don't know how much space for shortening there is in the rear shocks, but it looks like there's only a little room for lowering judging by the rear perch. Maybe something like another 8mm + 4mm preload?

I'm not sure whether this is an option: removing the top lock ring and having the lower ring all the way up and 'locking' against the top of the perch? Or maybe that's dangerous? But that also would be a big height jump (the thickness of the top ring + the thread space above).

As for the fronts:

IMG_20190403_122234.jpg


Again, I'm not sure about the amount of thread left in the shock, to shorten it (and lower the car more), but I'd think there's at least 10mm in there.

Also this has got me thinking: I reckon I'm capable of adjusting the height myself, or at least attempting. That way I can really dial in the height to make sure each corner is (almost) the same. It's help if I could get hold of a second trolley though.

The only thing I'm struggling to get my head around is correctly setting the length of the adjustable sway drop/end links. But I could deal with that after dealing with the coilovers. Regardless, professionally having drop links adjusted costs less than having drop links AND coilovers adjusted.

About the leaking air from the front offside tyre: I have a little "flat spot" in the rim which seems to really slowly create bubbles when in soapy water...the tyre fella (Culcheth Tyres) cleaned the rim, put on a new valve, reseat the tyre and used this glue/filler stuff and said it should be sound. Cost me £20. I'll keep an eye on it.
 
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Daheem24

Nice job with wheels! I noticed that you used Autosol metal polish. For future reference in case you don't know, Autosol makes polishers to different metals, link: www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/ => autosol-products.
I made experiment to my Harley rear rim, used Autosol Metal Polish and Autosol Aluminium Polish. Aluminium one gave shinier result than Metal polish!;)
Oo some food for thought there. Thanks Mika, I might give that a try when I (eventually) get to detailing my car (y)(y).
 
OP
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Daheem24
Recent tasks...

Flat wiper blades fitted:

IMG_20190408_184655.jpg


What you know about JDM wiper assemblies x

IMG_20190401_172040.jpg


Headlights: I 'repaired' the broken mounting clip on my offside headlight, and fit my Osram Night breaker dipped beam bulbs.

Here's the headlight bracket repair:

IMG_20190408_172320.jpg


IMG_20190408_172321.jpg

I used Araldite Fusion 3G one-shot epoxy, which set in a few hours.

However, it must be brittle because the joint broke when I took out the headlight to fit the new bulbs the morning after:

IMG_20190409_085844.jpg


Boooo!

So any suggestions (as to what I could use) are welcome...I'm thinking I could maybe try fibreglass as I've never used it before, but that might be a bit of an overkill.

Some vague steps to remove headlight - I've tried to remember to take pictures for reference:

First remove the grill, which is held on by 2 plastic trim clips at the top, and 3 clips which pull out at the bottom. Clips at the bottom look like this; pushing them up (with a screwdriver) while pulling out will make things easier as I learned the hard way - 2 broken clips.

IMG_20190409_083747.jpg


Disconnect the indicator light electrical connector; basically carefully 'jam' a little screwdriver in and pull out.

There are usually 4 places where the headlight is secured. Here:

IMG_20190409_082408.jpg


Here:

IMG_20190409_082406.jpg


Here just below the front of the light unit (note: nothing in the hole in the picture):

IMG_20190409_082402.jpg


And one to the left behind the bumper (I have no picture).

Then wiggle out the headlight; I find a rotating motion (towards to outer side of the car) helps.

Then disconnect electrical connectors; again, carefully 'jam' and pull.

IMG_20190409_082610.jpg

IMG_20190409_082614.jpg



Next up...RUST :mad:

The mechanic told me about a rust hole on the inner wing underneath the offside headlight. Basically said it'll need doing but will not cause an MOT fail as it's not visible while the headlight's out. So, I had a look...


IMG_20190408_171517.jpg

MVIMG_20190408_171520.jpg


Jheeeeez!

I shudder to think how much this will cost to get welded up as fixed. Anyone have experience with this?

Also I'm thinking on the fibreglass front, maybe I could fibreglass up with hole?

Because:
  • It's not very close to the suspension mounts
  • Fibreglass is pretty strong
  • It'd be a lot cheaper than getting it welded
Anybody have any suggestions?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Well, when I first removed the O/S headlight on my 2005 K12 I found a lot of lifting paint and surface rust in the same area that you have that massive hole. I scrapped off all the lifting paint and light rust and treated and painted the area. This was two years ago and the other week I had to change the O/S headlight bulb so removed the light unit again and no major new corrosion was found, everything is still solid and structurally sound.
I can see two very significant differences with your car and mine in that area, firstly my car has full plastic inner wheel arch liners in place (the fact that you can see the wheel through the hole suggests that your car doesn't) and secondly, and probably most significant, my car has never had the sound damping plastic covering under the headlight, (peculiar only to diesel cars?) which I'm sure has caused a massive moisture trap which has resulted in the excessive rust in this area. There are many reported cases of rust forming in this exact area on K12's (but not on the N/S) which suggests that there was some sort glitch/area missed in the automated rust proofing/painting of the body shells during production of these cars...............
 
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Daheem24
Thanks for the insight John (y)

firstly my car has full plastic inner wheel arch liners in place (the fact that you can see the wheel through the hole suggests that your car doesn't)
So I've had a look, and I think I also have the plastic wheel arch liners you've mentioned:

IMG_20190409_184440.jpg

IMG_20190409_184450.jpg

IMG_20190409_184459.jpg


Unless there should be another plastic section covering the corroded section?

secondly, and probably most significant, my car has never had the sound damping plastic covering under the headlight, (peculiar only to diesel cars?) which I'm sure has caused a massive moisture trap which has resulted in the excessive rust in this area.
Yep I also can't really see the point of that material or, at least, I can think of a couple better ways to 'deaden sound'. So I reckon I'll just remove it.

There are many reported cases of rust forming in this exact area on K12's (but not on the N/S) which suggests that there was some sort glitch/area missed in the automated rust proofing/painting of the body shells during production of these cars
In that case I'd think there would be plenty of OEM replacement panels (for welding in place), although I can't seem to find any online. A search for "front inner wing" just returns the plastic wheel arch liners.

I found a "front right slam panel", but not sure if that's right.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissan_Micra_1.5_2005/p/car-parts/body-shop/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/body-panel/?806700041&1&5b8c1d1153e35040e0e66172f5dffaa8ff428145&000913

806700041.jpg


Should I be searching for something else?
 

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Daheem24
Update...'JDM' heater dials with black knobs - JDM because they came off a Nissan March AK12 eeyooo

How to remove/replace heater dial unit/stereo/head unit/dashboard top. By ya boi Daheem:

Unscrew 2 screws just below head unit here:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Unscrew 2 more screws above the head unit here:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Pull out the rubber door seal strip on both sides:

MVIMG_20190410_063657.jpg


Pull out the A-trim on both sides:

IMG_20190410_063647.jpg


Pull up the top of the dashboard here:

IMG_20190410_063722.jpg


Pull along the length of the dashboard...

IMG_20190410_063837.jpg


...to reveal the final securing bolt for the head unit:

IMG_20190410_063847.jpg


Undo the bolt and wiggle the HU out. It's a pig to get out:

IMG_20190410_064041.jpg


Side note: instead of fitting a separate DAB antenna, I bought an adapter which splits the car's standard ISO aerial output into both an ISO aerial output AND DAB output. Cost me around £13 and works a treat:

41ENalbEjQL.jpg


Also, am I right in thinking this connector is for the steering wheel controls?

IMG_20190410_073225.jpg


Anyway, HU is out. Now pull out the plastic piece from the *fresh air/recirc air* selector (not pictured). Remove the 2 screws at the top of the heater dial fascia, pull out the fascia and disconnect the electrical connectors for cigarette lighter/12V output and hazard light switch:

IMG_20190410_064324.jpg

IMG_20190410_064317.jpg

IMG_20190410_064401.jpg

IMG_20190410_064411.jpg


Side note: it's a good idea to note the positions of each of the dials, so you can set them the same in the replacement unit for fitting.
Now, unscrew the 4 screws at each corner of the heater dial unit:

IMG_20190410_064532.jpg

IMG_20190410_064534.jpg


The glove-box needs taking out in order to access the cable ends of the heater controls (where they attach to the heater modules). Forgot to take pics, but will post later.

Once glove-box is out, check where each cable (behind the heater dials) goes.
Grey cable goes to yellow unit:

IMG_20190410_065730.jpg


Blue cable goes to a white unit:

IMG_20190410_065752.jpg


No picture for the black cable, due to lack of space, but follow the same procedure.

So each cable end slots into this cylinder-shaped bit, and the coloured outer cable is attached onto the dash with these metal clips. Both need to be pulled out (including the metal clips). I don't really know how you're meant to take out the clips, but I just resorted to yanking at them with pliers. Note, the clips should be situated at the same point along the outer cables on the replacement unit.

Now pull out the heater dial unit. This is done by first pushing it back into the dash (because it's held in by a few clips), rotating, then pulling out. Then disconnect the electrical connector:

Snapchat-1515426645.jpg

IMG_20190410_070529.jpg

MVIMG_20190410_070550.jpg


Here's where I change the bulbs on the unit. 2 "T5" bulbs along the bottom at the back, which just twist out in the cradle:

IMG_20190410_070723.jpg

IMG_20190410_070719.jpg

IMG_20190410_070721.jpg


Old bulb vs new LED light (and cradle for reference). I noticed that the LED light doesn't fit at securely as the old bulb, but let's see how it goes.
Note: there are 2 ways the LED lights can be mounted into the cradle. They'll only work in one of those positions. So I put them in, connected the electrical connector, checked if they it up and then adjusted accordingly.

IMG_20190410_070855.jpg


Fitting is the reversal of removal. Ensure the replacement dials are set the same as the old one for when connecting up the tables.

Here's an 'after' shot, in the light:

IMG_20190410_073909.jpg


The dials are a bit tatty (scuffed), to be honest, so I think I'll look to replace them at some point:

IMG_20190410_073920.jpg

IMG_20190410_073918.jpg

IMG_20190410_073913.jpg



'Before' pic, in the dark (without Google Pixel's Night Sight):

MVIMG_20190410_052959.jpg


'Before' pic, in the dark (with Google Pixel's Night Sight). Note how there is cracking int he blue bit, and around the left dial - one of the reasons I wanted to change them. The other reason was because I'm not a fan of the random cream on the dials and gear knob:

IMG_20190410_052952.jpg


Funnily enough, the right hand bulb on the old unit has only just blown; so that's pretty good timing with the LED replacements.
The lights are from Auto Bulbs Direct and cost £3.75 posted. They came within 2 days. Let's see how long they last...

Capture.PNG


I checked that all the controls work...they do.

'After' pic:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Many thanks
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Just checked mine, under the wheel arch and found that the inner wing liner on mine is the same as yours. I thought, obviously wrongly, that the plastic cover extended to shield that area:oops:.
K12 front O_S inner wing2.jpg

There is no sign of any rust there on mine, but since taking the photo above I have brushed it down to remove any loose dirt etc and sprayed the area liberally with Waxoil........
This only seems to confirm my initial thought that any corrosion there starts from on top, under the headlight, and is caused by a combination of poor paint/rust protection in that area and water accumulating there, and has been exaserpated on your car by the moisture being trapped under the 'sound proofing' mat:mad:.
Like you I have found no proprietary repair panel for that area and think that it will need to be patched with sheet steel, cut and welded to suit.
 
OP
OP
Daheem24
Osram Night Breakers...

So I really dislike those dark blue bulbs which emit a "white light": basically a scattered beam of limited light which dazzles oncoming road users and doesn't remotely improve visibility. Speaking from experience.

There seems to be loads of debate about the best bulbs for light output or best bulbs for looking cool/xenon-y.

I'm a massive fan of Osram Night Breakers, as I find I can see more in the night with them, and they are reasonably priced. I think standard UK K12s use H4 bulbs - a 2-pack of which will cost £15.

I initially thought I'd need H7 bulbs, but turns out it was actually H11s I needed - they look quite similar from the front.

IMG_20190409_081755.jpg


Not sure if pics are worth it (might not really be able to tell any difference), but why not ey...

So before/after:

IMG_20190408_213822.jpg

IMG_20190410_213605.jpg



MVIMG_20190408_214336.jpg

MVIMG_20190409_213315.jpg



IMG_20190408_214405.jpg

IMG_20190409_213335.jpg


Comparison of bulbs

IMG_20190409_082927.jpg


Some random pics of fitting:

IMG_20190409_082809.jpg

IMG_20190409_082755.jpg


Many thanks
 

Attachments

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OP
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Daheem24
Just checked mine, under the wheel arch and found that the inner wing liner on mine is the same as yours. I thought, obviously wrongly, that the plastic cover extended to shield that area:oops:.
View attachment 63100
There is no sign of any rust there on mine, but since taking the photo above I have brushed it down to remove any loose dirt etc and sprayed the area liberally with Waxoil........
This only seems to confirm my initial thought that any corrosion there starts from on top, under the headlight, and is caused by a combination of poor paint/rust protection in that area and water accumulating there, and has been exaserpated on your car by the moisture being trapped under the 'sound proofing' mat:mad:.
Like you I have found no proprietary repair panel for that area and think that it will need to be patched with sheet steel, cut and welded to suit.
Appreciate the picture John. This seems very Renault-y and not Nissan-y. I'll get it looked at sorted soon, with updates.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Update...'JDM' heater dials with black knobs - JDM because they came off a Nissan March AK12 eeyooo

How to remove/replace heater dial unit/stereo/head unit/dashboard top. By ya boi Daheem:

Unscrew 2 screws just below head unit here:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Unscrew 2 more screws above the head unit here:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Pull out the rubber door seal strip on both sides:

View attachment 63070

Pull out the A-trim on both sides:

View attachment 63071

Pull up the top of the dashboard here:

View attachment 63072

Pull along the length of the dashboard...

View attachment 63073

...to reveal the final securing bolt for the head unit:

View attachment 63074

Undo the bolt and wiggle the HU out. It's a pig to get out:

View attachment 63075

Side note: instead of fitting a separate DAB antenna, I bought an adapter which splits the car's standard ISO aerial output into both an ISO aerial output AND DAB output. Cost me around £13 and works a treat:

View attachment 63076

Also, am I right in thinking this connector is for the steering wheel controls?

View attachment 63077

Anyway, HU is out. Now pull out the plastic piece from the *fresh air/recirc air* selector (not pictured). Remove the 2 screws at the top of the heater dial fascia, pull out the fascia and disconnect the electrical connectors for cigarette lighter/12V output and hazard light switch:

View attachment 63078
View attachment 63079
View attachment 63080
View attachment 63081

Side note: it's a good idea to note the positions of each of the dials, so you can set them the same in the replacement unit for fitting.
Now, unscrew the 4 screws at each corner of the heater dial unit:

View attachment 63082
View attachment 63083

The glove-box needs taking out in order to access the cable ends of the heater controls (where they attach to the heater modules). Forgot to take pics, but will post later.

Once glove-box is out, check where each cable (behind the heater dials) goes.
Grey cable goes to yellow unit:

View attachment 63084

Blue cable goes to a white unit:

View attachment 63085

No picture for the black cable, due to lack of space, but follow the same procedure.

So each cable end slots into this cylinder-shaped bit, and the coloured outer cable is attached onto the dash with these metal clips. Both need to be pulled out (including the metal clips). I don't really know how you're meant to take out the clips, but I just resorted to yanking at them with pliers. Note, the clips should be situated at the same point along the outer cables on the replacement unit.

Now pull out the heater dial unit. This is done by first pushing it back into the dash (because it's held in by a few clips), rotating, then pulling out. Then disconnect the electrical connector:

View attachment 63095
View attachment 63086
View attachment 63094

Here's where I change the bulbs on the unit. 2 "T5" bulbs along the bottom at the back, which just twist out in the cradle:

View attachment 63087
View attachment 63088
View attachment 63089

Old bulb vs new LED light (and cradle for reference). I noticed that the LED light doesn't fit at securely as the old bulb, but let's see how it goes.
Note: there are 2 ways the LED lights can be mounted into the cradle. They'll only work in one of those positions. So I put them in, connected the electrical connector, checked if they it up and then adjusted accordingly.

View attachment 63098

Fitting is the reversal of removal. Ensure the replacement dials are set the same as the old one for when connecting up the tables.

Here's an 'after' shot, in the light:

View attachment 63090

The dials are a bit tatty (scuffed), to be honest, so I think I'll look to replace them at some point:

View attachment 63091
View attachment 63092
View attachment 63093


'Before' pic, in the dark (without Google Pixel's Night Sight):

View attachment 63096

'Before' pic, in the dark (with Google Pixel's Night Sight). Note how there is cracking int he blue bit, and around the left dial - one of the reasons I wanted to change them. The other reason was because I'm not a fan of the random cream on the dials and gear knob:

View attachment 63097

Funnily enough, the right hand bulb on the old unit has only just blown; so that's pretty good timing with the LED replacements.
The lights are from Auto Bulbs Direct and cost £3.75 posted. They came within 2 days. Let's see how long they last...

View attachment 63099

I checked that all the controls work...they do.

'After' pic:

*PIC TO BE INSERTED*

Many thanks
You do realise that you didn't have to change the whole heater control unit? The white 'Belling Cooker' knobs just pull off then you can unclip and swap over the front panels and replace the white knobs with the black ones.......:ROFLMAO:
 
OP
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Daheem24
You do realise that you didn't have to change the whole heater control unit? The white 'Belling Cooker' knobs just pull off then you can unclip and swap over the front panels and replace the white knobs with the black ones.......:ROFLMAO:
Noo I was aware, but the reason I wanted to fully replace them was because of the cracking on the display bits around the lights, which I wasn't keen on.

InkedIMG_20190410_052952_LI.jpg


Buuut my replacements are also pretty tatty, so I'm still not happy :rolleyes:.

Just remembered...I forgot to ask...do you know of any other spots to check for rust on these cars? Might be a good idea I guess.
 

Attachments

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Noo I was aware, but the reason I wanted to fully replace them was because of the cracking on the display bits around the lights, which I wasn't keen on.

View attachment 63112

Buuut my replacements are also pretty tatty, so I'm still not happy :rolleyes:.

Just remembered...I forgot to ask...do you know of any other spots to check for rust on these cars? Might be a good idea I guess.
The black bit , with the cracks in was the bit I was referring to when I said 'unclip from the front', it just unclips from the white body of the heater control unit, once you pull the knobs off, that way you don't have to worry about disconnecting any of the heater control cables....
I replaced the white knobs on my heater unit some time ago see HERE ........
As for other rust points on the K12 I don't know of any that are common (unlike the K11's!)
 
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Daheem24
The black bit , with the cracks in was the bit I was referring to when I said 'unclip from the front', it just unclips from the white body of the heater control unit, once you pull the knobs off, that way you don't have to worry about disconnecting any of the heater control cables....
I replaced the white knobs on my heater unit some time ago see HERE ........
As for other rust points on the K12 I don't know of any that are common (unlike the K11's!)
Ar man I see what you mean now! Ah well, I guess it was an experience nevertheless.


So, apparently there's a limit of picture attachments per post - 30. So here's the 'after' picture for my heater control dials:

IMG_20190410_213707.jpg


Not too impressed to be honest. I think it looks a bit naff with the fading of the light at the edges and I have no idea what that shadow is behind the blue. So I don't know what to do now - options are:
  • (Because of the weird blue shadow), change back to the old heater unit and do what John said about changing over the dials and the front panel
  • Change back to the original orange lighting
  • (To mitigate the crappy uneven lighting situation) order something like:
s-l640.jpg

s-l500.jpg


More updates...I took out my speedo/instrument cluster and kind of broke it:

So I wanted to see if I could also change the bulbs on the speedo and took it out. Long story short: you can't (on the speedos with the rings around the revmeter and speedometer) but you can on the other type of K12 speedo. But there is speculation as to how effective changing the bulbs on those would be, as apparently the translucent bits (where the numbers etc are) are actually slightly tinted so that they appear orange; this hasn't been officially confirmed.

How I took the unit out: 3 screws underneath the steering wheel:

IMG_20190410_174814.jpg


Off it comes, and so does the bit of plastic trim above the steering wheel:
Side note: Nike Benassi slides - 11/10 would recommend x

IMG_20190410_174616.jpg


The silver trim around the edge of the dash; that's held on by a few clips. Get a screwdriver (gently) or trim removal tool in and yank the trim out:

IMG_20190410_174438.jpg

IMG_20190410_174344.jpg

IMG_20190410_174330.jpg


Screw at the top: geeet iiit off, geeet iiit off:

IMG_20190410_174327.jpg


1 screw either side of the speedo; please also kindly remove them (excuse the shoddy pic - there was some wonderful Spring sunlight glare):

IMG_20190410_174316.jpg

IMG_20190410_173856.jpg


Then pull the speedo out. I read somewhere you pull it up towards the dash; to be honest, it's held on VERY securely, so I don't really know how I ended up getting it out.

Then I took it apart, as much as I could, to look for anything lighting-related:

IMG_20190410_154603.jpg

IMG_20190410_125031.jpg

IMG_20190410_154443.jpg

IMG_20190410_154445.jpg


The digital screen broke:

IMG_20190410_154950.jpg


I tinkered (kind of just blew at it and pushed things:

IMG_20190410_173338.jpg


Then...

IMG_20190410_213712.jpg


When I was taking it apart, I tried to pull the circuit board out the back; there were several clips around the edge which I unclipped. Realised it shouldn't really come off and I should leave it. I feel like I never pushed the circuit board properly back to its position, which might be why this is happening. Or I've just fully messed it up.

I'll try and tinker and fix it tonight. Then decide whether I'll just leave it and abandon this very long winded light-changing attempt, or buy the other style of speedo and try different bulbs.
 
OP
OP
Daheem24
The black bit , with the cracks in was the bit I was referring to when I said 'unclip from the front', it just unclips from the white body of the heater control unit, once you pull the knobs off, that way you don't have to worry about disconnecting any of the heater control cables....
I replaced the white knobs on my heater unit some time ago see HERE ........
As for other rust points on the K12 I don't know of any that are common (unlike the K11's!)
Ar man I see what you mean now! Ah well, I guess it was an experience nevertheless.


So, apparently there's a limit of picture attachments per post - 30. So here's the 'after' picture for my heater control dials:

IMG_20190410_213707.jpg


Not too impressed to be honest. I think it looks a bit naff with the fading of the light at the edges and I have no idea what that shadow is behind the blue. So I don't know what to do now - options are:
  • (Because of the weird blue shadow), change back to the old heater unit and do what John said about changing over the dials and the front panel
  • Change back to the original orange lighting
  • (To mitigate the crappy uneven lighting situation) order something like:
s-l500.jpg

s-l640.jpg


More updates...I took out my speedo/instrument cluster and kind of broke it:

So I wanted to see if I could also change the bulbs on the speedo and took it out. Long story short: you can't (on the speedos with the rings around the revmeter and speedometer) but you can on the other type of K12 speedo. But there is speculation as to how effective changing the bulbs on those would be, as apparently the translucent bits (where the numbers etc are) are actually slightly tinted so that they appear orange; this hasn't been officially confirmed.

How I took the unit out: 3 screws underneath the steering wheel:

IMG_20190410_174814.jpg


Off it comes, and so does the bit of plastic trim above the steering wheel:
Side note: Nike Benassi slides - 11/10 would recommend x

IMG_20190410_174616.jpg


The silver trim around the edge of the dash; that's held on by a few clips. Get a screwdriver (gently) or trim removal tool in and yank the trim out:

IMG_20190410_174438.jpg

IMG_20190410_174344.jpg

IMG_20190410_174330.jpg


Screw at the top: get it off, get it off:

IMG_20190410_174327.jpg


1 screw either side of the speedo; please also kindly remove them (excuse the shoddy pic - there was some wonderful Spring sunlight glare):

IMG_20190410_174316.jpg

IMG_20190410_173856.jpg


Then pull the speedo out. I read somewhere you pull it up towards the dash; to be honest, it's held on VERY securely, so I don't really know how I ended up getting it out.

Then I took it apart, as much as I could, to look for anything lighting-related:

IMG_20190410_154603.jpg

IMG_20190410_125031.jpg

IMG_20190410_154443.jpg

IMG_20190410_154445.jpg


The digital screen broke:

IMG_20190410_154950.jpg


I tinkered (kind of just blew at it and pushed things:

IMG_20190410_173338.jpg


Then...

IMG_20190410_213712.jpg


When I was taking it apart, I tried to pull the circuit board out the back; there were several clips around the edge which I unclipped. Realised it shouldn't really come off and I should leave it. I feel like I never pushed the circuit board properly back to its position, which might be why this is happening. Or I've just fully messed it up.

I'll try and tinker and fix it tonight. Then decide whether I'll just leave it and abandon this very long winded light-changing attempt, or buy the other style of speedo and try different bulbs.
 
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Daheem24
Also lowered the ride height yesterday. To be honest, I winged it with the amount I lowered, as I couldn't really measure a difference in height after making the changes and driving round the block to 'settle the suspension'.

I think I turned the adjusters approximately like so:
  • Front N/S: ~20mm
  • Front O/S: ~10mm
  • Rear N/S: ~3mm
  • Rear O/S: ~8mm
The fronts are different because of the ride height difference which already existed (I'm trying to balance them up). I just dropped the rears as much as I could with both rings on.

Pics (spot the WD-40 x):

IMG_20190410_181650.jpg


I've just been spraying loads of WD-40 on the coils to minimise corrosion. But other than coil socks, are there any other ways to keep out/off all this grit?

IMG_20190410_181657.jpg


I notice some uneven wear on the front N/S tyre (I don't know if 4-wheel alignment involves sorting this, but I haven't yet got alignment sorted)...
Please excuse the crusty hands - they were mucky enough anyway.

IMG_20190410_182843.jpg


Camber was adjusted (for the time being):

IMG_20190410_182830.jpg


Plenty of WD-40 on this bolt:

IMG_20190410_193740.jpg


Before:

IMG_20190410_195412.jpg


After:

IMG_20190410_195702.jpg


Rear shock mount was rotated to make shorter, with a few mm preload. Then bolted all back up with torque settings as per the trusty Haynes manual.

I think I'll want even more lows at the rear, so I'll probably remove the top locking ring altogether, which will allow for another few mm (~10mm?). According to this...
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?6383-Help-needed!-Removing-spiring-perch-and-or-locking-ring-to-go-lower
...there shouldn't be an issue with doing this.

As for the front, it's already sitting lower than the front, so I wont want to drop it too much more. Let's see...

I'll post updates on the ride height when I get a chance to measure; I'm sure it's had enough time/distance to settle.
 

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OP
Daheem24
Feels like it's been a while - I've been (somewhat) busy...

Firstly, I sorted my speedo. The circuit board just needed properly pushing back in:

IMG_20190411_180900.jpg


I also took apart the heater dials from the front and have some different lights on order:

IMG_20190411_182934.jpg


Secondly, I had a look at my passenger window. Both front windows make this annoying creaking/rattling noise whenever they're rolled down - even just a little. This stops if I push down at the top of the window glass; it slides down a little on the runners:


After searching the forums, I've identified two fixes:
  • Spray silicone grease on the runners;
    • I did this (without actually taking out the assembly fully I admit)...basically just drenched the runners in GT85 as much as I could. Didn't seem to fix the problem
  • Apparently sticking some electrical cable (0.75mm-1mm thick) somewhere between a rubber bit and the door will help. Not too sure where exactly but apparently it mitigates the issue for sideways movement of the glass. Still trying to figure that one out, to be honest.
    • If anybody has any suggestions or advice, it's welcome.
Taking out the door card is pretty simply - getting it back on was a bit fiddly.

Pop off the plastic trim around the hands and on the armrest:

IMG_20190411_185158.jpg

IMG_20190411_185202.jpg


Remove the bolt/screw behind the armrest:

IMG_20190411_185324.jpg


Then the door card pops off - clips along the bottom and a hook fit at the top:

IMG_20190411_185637.jpg

IMG_20190411_185639.jpg


Then I just yanked at the plastic:

MVIMG_20190411_185644.jpg
 
OP
OP
Daheem24
I also cleaned my EGR valve over the weekend. It's been on my list of things to do since I bought it; it seems it's good practise and often solves a lot of unexplained engine issues.

However, apparently oily deposits in the valve suggest failure of the turbo seals, and I'm a little concerned:


Could anybody shed any light on this?

To take off the EGR valve, remove these:

PicsArt_04-15-10.58.20.jpg


Remove these:

PicsArt_04-15-11.00.37.jpg


Use copious amount of WD-40 and gently hammer and chisel/screwdriver:

IMG_20190413_132659.jpg

IMG_20190413_134508.jpg

IMG_20190413_134515.jpg


And after some perseverance, it all comes off.

'Before' pics, with oil and soot:

IMG_20190413_131057.jpg

IMG_20190413_131105.jpg

IMG_20190413_131121.jpg

IMG_20190413_134948.jpg

IMG_20190413_134959.jpg


I used four to five rounds of Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner and Mr Muscle Degreaser; I know, it's probably not the best for the EGR valve's rubber seals, but how often has this/will this be done?

'After' pics:

IMG_20190413_182051.jpg

IMG_20190413_182054.jpg


(Didn't take one of the inlet pipe, apologies)
 

Attachments

OP
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Daheem24
After that, I tried to change the fuel filter, but couldn't actually remove the filter from its mount thing.

I removed the battery and airbox. I removed a bracket holding some pipes (for access) and took 2 pipes off the top of the fuel filter. Then according to Guy's advice on www.micralife.co.uk/index.htm the filter just needed pushing up and out with a lever. I didn't have one long enough, failed, and ended up wrecking my hand.

IMG_20190413_165732.jpg

IMG_20190413_180423.jpg


Any advice on how to get the filter out - please help!

I also painted my brake drums with 4 layers of Halfords' finest matt black VHT paint.

Before:

IMG_20190414_161814.jpg


After some wire brush action:

IMG_20190414_161142.jpg


Applied some paint; couldn't find any brushed so resorted to a sponge:

IMG_20190414_164015.jpg

IMG_20190414_164018.jpg


After:

IMG_20190415_065135.jpg


My hands were pretty wrecked after this, and it took me a while to realise the paint could come off with the help of white spirit :rolleyes:
 

Attachments

OP
OP
Daheem24
Also, I think I've finally sorted the ride height on the car. I dropped the rears, as much as I could, by removing the top locking ring. The bottom (collar?) is needed to hold the spring securely in place. Just by dropping the rears, it's kind of balanced the fronts, which sit a tiny bit lower.

Here is how it's looking now (latest heights at the bottom):

MVIMG_20190415_112953.jpg

Snapchat-1838145090.jpg


And theeeeen...

I finally stuck the broken clip onto my headlight using fibreglass. My setup (I'll post a picture showing the end result later):

IMG_20190414_204846.jpg


I don't know if I was doing it wrong, but fibreglass is an absolute pain to work with. Once the hardener has mixed with the resin, it's like a countdown to when it hardens in the pot and on the brush (deeming the brush no longer useful for future use). It was a very messy job and a bit of an overkill, but I gave it a go.

I also prised off the front number plate, just to give it a tidy up - I found some of the rust around the holes could be removed/tidied.

The rusty screws - more like screwy rust x:

IMG_20190414_203034_1.jpg


The number plate:

IMG_20190414_203037.jpg


I just wet-and-dried the surface using 800 and 1200 grits. I could polish for some shine (I guess), but these plates are pretty knackered already. I'm going to pick up some replacement fixings today/tomorrow, and that will do until I detail the car and get some nicer plates to replace them - eventually...

I'll post pictures once these plates are back on. For now (very temporarily) I'm driving around with the plate on the dash - like a bloody rascal.
 
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Daheem24
Some pictures...

The painted brake drums behind the wheels; excuse the very dirty wheels/car:

MVIMG_20190415_195912.jpg


The messy headlight clip repair:

IMG_20190416_083456.jpg


Before I cleaned the number plate:

IMG_20190319_145755.jpg


'During':

IMG_20190415_195902.jpg


After the clean up and new fixings:

IMG_20190416_172317.jpg


Pretty happy with that, especially at a grand total of 89p :geek:
 
OP
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Daheem24
Minor update: I think I managed to sort the creaky/clucky windows.

Here's my logic:
So the creaking stops when I push down the window by hand, which drops the window a further ~5mm.

Therefore there is too much resistance in the actual window runner and/or the rubber sealing/gap around the window.

I wanted to get the window and assembly out, but failed after I partially pulled out the rubber sealing and unbolted the window. Had no idea how to actually get the window out. It looked like the assembly would have then come out with 4 bolts.

Plan B was to grease up the runners with a LOT of grease (multipurpose grease). Then, while I had the rubber sealing thing pulled off the door, I cleaned out the insides with a cloth and soapy water. I also sprayed a load of WD-40 in, but I regret that because I feel like that'll just accumulate loads of dirt over time. Sooo I'll probably clean it out again.

Final result is success! No more annoying rattling noise.

Off topic, but picture of Stock Micra Vs Café Latte K12 (can't really tell the height difference to be honest):

received_2319439311603257.jpeg
 
Hi a good product is silicone lubricant spray for the sticky window mine seemed to work fine afterwards but when the door has been open it seems to stick still.
Important thing is to clear inside the rubber lots will be removed.
It does not harm the rubber. Might have worked better with a spray straw that I didn't seem to get.
Definitely helps and makes the rubber trim shine.

Was about 3 quid for a decent size tin.
Also it seem to remove any algae growing.This may only happen near trees or hedges.
That I think looks bad and makes the glass stick more IMO.
Probably best to blast it with a pressure washer first. And that seemed to lift it after using a warmish water with a car shampoo.
 
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Daheem24
Hi a good product is silicone lubricant spray for the sticky window mine seemed to work fine afterwards but when the door has been open it seems to stick still.
Important thing is to clear inside the rubber lots will be removed.
It does not harm the rubber. Might have worked better with a spray straw that I didn't seem to get.
Definitely helps and makes the rubber trim shine.

Was about 3 quid for a decent size tin.
Also it seem to remove any algae growing.This may only happen near trees or hedges.
That I think looks bad and makes the glass stick more IMO.
Probably best to blast it with a pressure washer first. And that seemed to lift it after using a warmish water with a car shampoo.
Cheers Sparky. I've got some GT85 (which I'm under the impression is silicone lubricant spray), so I'll give that a try on the other side of the car (y)
 
Daheem24 you left brake drums with pretty rough surface, before painting them?!:unsure:

Before removal of surface rust

After surface rust removed.



Tools used.



 
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Daheem24
Daheem24 you left brake drums with pretty rough surface, before painting them?!:unsure:

Before removal of surface rust

After surface rust removed.



Tools used.



Yep, I could only take off so much with the wire brush unfortunately. I don't have a drill so I couldn't blitz it with the attachment like you did. To be honest I just wanted the ugly rust covered.
 
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Daheem24
Update:


Plan was to:
  • Debadge
  • Wash
  • Remove tar
  • Clay
  • Compound (machine)
  • Polish (machine)
  • Wax
But tar removal took a loooong time, although it was long overdue and completely worth it. So I didn't get round to compounding or polishing and skipped straight to waxing.

Based off the advice of people on DetalingWorld, I got the Argos Challenge Xtreme DA polisher which packed in after 20 mins of use - I made a start on the boot lid where the Nissan badge was. It's now been returned and I reckon I'll go for a DAS6.

I've got a couple 5" Chemical Guys hex logic pads - medium cutting and medium polishing - from Detail Garage in Preston, and meguiars M105 and M205.

I used Auto Finesse shampoo (v impressed) and clay bar & lube (did the job).

Forgot the brand of tar remover, but it's this new brand in stock from Halfords - a firm based in Rotherham. I wasn't really impressed with the product, to be honest, but maybe that's because there was so much tar on the car.

Also a massive fan of the Auto Finesse drying towel - maybe because it's the first actual "drying" towel I've had; purists will say that it's not edgeless and therefore leaves scratched when used, but my paintwork is pretty shoddy enough to not worry about this too much.

64068
 
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Updates...

Blind spot wing mirror for £15 (as my old one wouldn't tilt up or down).

IMG_20190710_183935.jpg


Also toyed with the idea of having red accents.

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Also some part upgrades:

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It's not perfect by any means, but my cars got ~187000 on the clock so it's not going to be perfect everywhere else. But considering I did this in the garden with aerosols - I'm happy with the results.

Next steps:
Finish off the other side skirt (café latte) and spoiler (gloss black) and wing mirrors (gloss black)
Let it all cure
Reassemble
Fit them
Source a reasonably priced DAS 6 Pro, and wet & dry/polish

Note: Halfords aerosols are horrendous. The nozzles are horrid; the spray patterns are poor. I've only used them for a couple things out of necessity. Otherwise I've used Car Paint UK, based in Liverpool.
 
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Daheem24
Also I need to fit the stalks with the front fog light switches. But I stupidly (almost) rounded off one of the airbag bolts by trying to undo it with a flat head screwdriver. Now I've got the right tool, it still slips. Any suggestions on how to approach this are welcome. (Pics of the bolt below):

64460


64461


Also need to think about wiring in my fog lights. I'd like to get them tinted yellow, and I've bought the connectors to solder onto the (hopefully) existing wiring behind my bumper.

Also picture from FittedUK in Manchester today:

64462


✌
 
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Daheem24
Front bumper and fogs are now on! The fog light connectors were indeed already there, and it wasn't too painful a job (except for a couple of rusty bolts and spire clips.

64624


64625




Because the number plate holes didn't match up with the holes in the bumper (and I didn't want to butcher more holes into the bumper) I thought I was clever and used Command strips to stick the plate on.

Fast forward a commute to work...

64627


Oops, lost a number plate.

So I've been eyeing up these fancy "4D" number plates and just bit the bullet and got a pair of "4D crystal gloss plates" from Number Plate Clinic in Bolton:


64628


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V v happy with them.

I found a clean surface and lots of heat aid the sticking process, and when bending the front number plate (to bend with the front bumper)

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64635


However, some scally has stolen all 4 of my "Chopped!" tyre valve covers/dust caps; pretty annoying seeing as I ordered these in from Australia, and the thief probably has no idea what Chopped! means or what Mighty Car Mods is :mad:.

64633


Lastly, after an oil change I usually notice the oil goes black after a few days which I believe is common for diesels. But after this last oil change, I've driven around 500 miles in the last 2 weeks and the oil is almost as clear as it went in - a good sign I guess.

✌
 
Sorry to hear about your valve covers.

Do you know if those number plates are road legal? Ive seen loads of cars with them and would quite like some for mine.
 
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Daheem24
Sorry to hear about your valve covers.

Do you know if those number plates are road legal? Ive seen loads of cars with them and would quite like some for mine.
Ah thanks @Bethoffreshair; there are always some ####ty people about.

So as far as I understand, they are road legal:

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They can be a bit pricey, however. This place is local to me, but I also know of Monsta Plates who offer 10% off if you quote "J3ESE", and there's also Utopia Plates who I rate.

✌
 
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