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Nissan micra k12 2004 one litre

Any help greatly Appreciated

About 70,000 on the clock - nothing but trouble since i've owned it / least reliable car I've ever had - soon as I've got spare cash 💸 running back as fast as I can to toyota - only ever buying toyota till I die from now on -

Need this vechicle running really bad ATM very short on time

Upon start up car immediately dies unless you really hit hard the gas every time - then it runs fine but occasionally dies in busy traffic 😅

Changed the oil religiously about every 10k

AA man said he believed the issue was bad plugs or coils- which I suspected was bull - but went ahead and immediately fitted brand new coils and plugs - car running slightly nicer but exactly same problem - I used to rate the AA but like everything else in the UK ATM their service has gone from brilliant to broken - just like my nissan micra -

I'm not a mechanic and only know basics of cars - I suspected fuel pump so fitted a new one - exactly same problem persisting -

Took throttle body off cleaned the hell out of it with appropriate cleaner - same problem persisting -

New air intake filter-

I have a reasonably good odb reader about £900 - threw up a few fault codes relating to cam shaft position sensor so immediately ordered new nissan parts and fitted both cam and crank position sensors- exactly the same problem persisting -

Just ordered brand new throttle body and battery fitting those in a few days - see if it makes any difference - battery has good voltage but may be original or one after original bought the car at low miles so can't be sure - battery tests OK but can't hurt to change it

Dont know enough about how cars work fully so it's a bit like throwing darts at a dart board in the dark and hoping for bulls eye 😬

On top on this had to change all parts for the boot - and silicone around the boot lift switch as everything failed and was letting water in - not impressed

Special cleaning spray as the front lights go really really cloudy without attending to them every now and again - not impressed

Both speakers have failed and I have had to change them - not at all impressed

The wiper arms are f-ing horrendous and make like a really really loud slapping noise - like the worst in any car I've ever had - the most horrible sound you can imagine - don't want to fork out for more new parts on this junk ATM - bet the motor and arms cost bucket loads

How any body in thier right mind could rate this f-ing badly made junk is just beyond me - I've has more reliable fiat's that this k12 f-ing junk

Bought my mum a k13 a couple years ago and the clutch failed at 40,000 got a great company to do it on my drive for cheaper than garages - but a clutch failing at 40,000 - think maybe all micra are badly made total junk

People say the k11 was really good - probably should have bought that but they so old could not find low mileage examples-

All of the motors for the wind screen wash have failed going to have to change them -

Anyway back to the point- if changing the throttle body for new one does not work - anybody got any ideas ????

Going to change pcv valve as somebody told me that could be an issue as well /

Might change main 02 sensor as well 🤔 can't Hurt - seems easy to do -

On the plus side its made me decent cash delivering pizza and deliveroo monies and had pretty hard life -

And think the k12 has electric power steering - which is beautiful beautiful for delivery work - like so good - and had zero issues with the brakes so far 😀

Also l lite engine so beautifully good on fuel consumption

Any body got any ideas at all so I can get a bit more life out of it - before I run 🏃‍♀️ 😅 🙂 back to TOYOTA a proper car company that make proper cars -

THANKS

Any ideas so I could at least get 100,000 miles out of the k12 piece of f-ing junk while I'm stacking cash for my toyota auris

Got about another £500 to throw at it before I give up

Any and all help greatly appreciated - cheers don't want to scrap it at 70,000 miles 👍 but looking very possible / probable if I can't find out whats up with it - don't have any disposable income for garage ATM before any body says take it to a mechanic -
 
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I can only give you general advice as my micra is diesel one one the best micra's they built (for a diesel), however I own a few petrol Suzuki's and had similar problems of engine dying and reluctant to start complete with awful fuel economy, I keep my motors in tip top condition mechanically and so narrowed my problems when they started and that was when the E10 fuel was pushed on to the public, straight away problems surfaced with poor starting, cutting out at juntions and using more fuel than normal. The E 10 petrol at the pumps only containes 90% petrol with 10% Ethanol blended in for good measure! this coctail instantly lowers the octane rating of the fuel by upto 3 point, that is to say what was 95 octane rating could possible be only 92 octane in the real world. So a simple fix to this problem is either use the super octane 98 with E5 rating or use an additive (which I do) to raise the Octane rating and also clean the fuel pump, lines, injectors and valves etc. give it a try and take the car for a long run to help the engine clear out any build up of gunk and carbon buld up.:unsure:
 
My front wipers are the same I have changed the arms under panel it didn't really make any difference.
But while I was doing that I noticed a rubber part was missing on the passenger side one..
Perhaps this is what is causing them to be louder than normal.
I was unable to source a part to replace it.
Will maybe try the rubber caps I got as the first ones were too small.
The rear one is very quiet most of the time.
So anyways suggest to look at the mechanism and see if they match both side. if this rubber bit is missing perhaps that's the cause.
Must agree can be very annoying and off putting.
 
Part of the refurbishment last year meant I had to remove the wiper mechanism and casing to gain access to my turbo, but when I replaced all this I took of the wiper linkages of and greased the knuckles and reassembled with retaining clips to stop the linkage arms from coming loose, however these clips will only fit the original arms not the aftermarket ones.:unsure:

 
I can only give you general advice as my micra is diesel one one the best micra's they built (for a diesel), however I own a few petrol Suzuki's and had similar problems of engine dying and reluctant to start complete with awful fuel economy, I keep my motors in tip top condition mechanically and so narrowed my problems when they started and that was when the E10 fuel was pushed on to the public, straight away problems surfaced with poor starting, cutting out at juntions and using more fuel than normal. The E 10 petrol at the pumps only containes 90% petrol with 10% Ethanol blended in for good measure! this coctail instantly lowers the octane rating of the fuel by upto 3 point, that is to say what was 95 octane rating could possible be only 92 octane in the real world. So a simple fix to this problem is either use the super octane 98 with E5 rating or use an additive (which I do) to raise the Octane rating and also clean the fuel pump, lines, injectors and valves etc. give it a try and take the car for a long run to help the engine clear out any build up of gunk and carbon buld up.:unsure:

Looking for a specific reason why it continually dies on start up unless I press gas pedal while starting

I will have tried the following with no success by end of day tday

New jap throttle body - read they rubbish in k12

Cleaned all connections with contact cleaner

New bosch battery

New cam and crank sensor

New fuel pump

New starling coils and plugs

Clean the hell and of pcv valve

If nothing works what else could cause this issue
 
Try the fuel upgrade first before digging deeper, there is a common fault on certain petrol Micra's that effected the efficient running of the engine that originally surfaced as cam and crank sensor faults, however this was due to poor quality cam chains which stretched causing the timing to be slightly incorrect. however I urge you try the additive in your fuel first to see if this improves your situation.:unsure:
 
Hi, you mentioned the fuel pump was changed did you check the filter in the tank. And the condition of fuel inside.
I seen recently someone cleaning one with an ultrasonic cleaning machine.
I'm debating on if I should change the fuel filler neck in mine as last time I checked it was in very poor condition and might be dropping rust particle into the tank. This I believe can be removed with a magnet wrapped in a material.
I have not had much issues not starting but have noticed a few surges when running.

Something else I would check is VALVE ASSY-SOLENOID,VALVE TIMING CONTROL.
See if its clean as this has a filter use air flow sensor cleaner on it.
I recall mine was dirty and while cleaning it was unable to clear the filtered metal mesh fully.
It's up in top on rocker cover behind the plastic airbox top.

(Can also test with multimeter and make sure it functions properly with a 12v battery while it's removed from vehicle.)

Helps improve performance, fuel economy and can prevent stalling ect that you have mentioned.
 
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Hi, you mentioned the fuel pump was changed did you check the filter in the tank. And the condition of fuel inside.
I seen recently someone cleaning one with an ultrasonic cleaning machine.
I'm debating on if I should change the fuel filler neck in mine as last time I checked it was in very poor condition and might be dropping rust particle into the tank. This I believe can be removed with a magnet wrapped in a material.
I have not had much issues not starting but have noticed a few surges when running.

Something else I would check is VALVE ASSY-SOLENOID,VALVE TIMING CONTROL.
See if its clean as this has a filter use air flow sensor cleaner on it.
I recall mine was dirty and while cleaning it was unable to clear the filtered metal mesh fully.
It's up in top on rocker cover behind the plastic airbox top.

(Can also test with multimeter and make sure it functions properly with a 12v battery while it's removed from vehicle.)

Helps improve performance, fuel economy and can prevent stalling ect that you have mentioned.
Think sender unit and fuel filter are all in one on the k12 - is thier a separate fuel filter somewhere else
 
Think sender unit and fuel filter are all in one on the k12 - is thier a separate fuel filter somewhere / tank looked in really good condition for the age of the car - cheers for soloniod advice - I'll give it a bloody good clean next time I do a full service
 
Just the one in the tank.
Good luck with getting the car to run better.
Maybe then your view will change on the k12.
I honestly think they are decent just not alot of fun to work on.
 
Just the one in the tank.
Good luck with getting the car to run better.
Maybe then your view will change on the k12.
I honestly think they are decent just not alot of fun to work on.
To be fair there not entirely terrible - think I made few critical errors - the 1.2 looks way better for longevity - looks to be a much more solid set up and the engine is not overworking so much - I see a car ad a straight investment - I've had corolla's and auris and the old school toyota camry that I looked after and got 467,000 miles out of the camry and 287, 000 out of corolla- I just need to remember not all jap boxes are created equal and TOYOTA is number one for reliable small cars in the world - just need another 20k miles out the old nissan
 
Mines at about 120k atm not sure why engine was changed tho and will be at around just below 90k ish.
Sometimes it's really quiet running.
The 1.2 is a good base model with decent pulling power at 80hp.
My original thought was get a k11 tempest but for the price at the time would have ment it may not last very long. Or be a lot of work.
I once seen a 1.0 k11 when they were new and it was a good experience.
My main gripe with the k12 is the accessories I'm looking for are just not a available here in UK.
And it wasn't much all I wanted was a set of roof bars but since it's a 3 door the ones that I can find are ridiculous.
 
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