any ideas for increased bhp for low money?

[johnhum]

hi, i was wondering if anyone on here had any ideas for getting more bhp out of my k11 1.0 for low money.
Thanks, John

 

[Noddie]

put a cg13de in there, £150 from a breakers and you gain another 20bhp only problem is the hike in insurance costs, but you will get a rise whatever you do to the engine.

 

[johnhum]

thanks for the reply, i dont think il be doing an engine swap, insurance will be a killer just with the 1.0 in. That might be an option for next year mate

 

[frank]

it depends on how much you want to diy john, i,ve done loads to my 1.0 dot (doubled the power) in the last 2 yrs, and probably spent £300- £400

 

[johnhum]

it depends on how much you want to diy john, i,ve done loads to my 1.0 dot (doubled the power) in the last 2 yrs, and probably spent £300- £400

thanks for the reply, i was just wondering on what could be done over the time that i have the car mate. Dont have a specific price because bits will just be done when i have the money to hand. stuff you dont have to declare to your insurance would be ideal as i am only 17.

 

[Alienfish360]

Everything has to be declared especially performance modifications.

 

[Baz]

Sadly there's not much you can do without spend a few quid

 

[Alienfish360]

Cheapest performance increase is to strip it out, you will improve handling, braking and acceleration.

 

[johnhum]

thanks for the info everyone

 

[ollyc98]

I find a 3-5 degree advance on the timing gives much better acceleration and that's a free mod

 

[pollyp]

modify the stock airbox to fit a larger bore tube (e.g. 55mm drain pipes) and routed down below gearbox for cold air intake. reaches higher revs little quicker and CAI gives slightly improved top speed

 

[johnhum]

thanks everyone. the airbox mod sounds like a job for me to give a go when i get some spare time

 

[talk2dave]

best mod is to sell and buy a 1.3, thats what i did

 

[johnhum]

best mod is to sell and buy a 1.3, thats what i did

cheers mate. i think that will be something to look into when i can get an affordable insurance quote. I think that will be a while as my insurance is high as it is, a combination of being young and living in a rough area causes quotes to skyrocket.
John

 

[jim_bling]

personaly i would just stick with the 1.0 till you get some years no claims under your belt and then go and buy a 1.3/1.4 micra as teh insurance will be cheeper on a standard 1.3 than a 1.0 with an engine transplant even if you tell them its the exact same engine its strange but have you tried 1.3 cams yet mate and a full exhausts system i could get away off the mark better than most of my friends when i had my 1.0 just with a full exhaust system

 

[johnhum]

personaly i would just stick with the 1.0 till you get some years no claims under your belt and then go and buy a 1.3/1.4 micra as teh insurance will be cheeper on a standard 1.3 than a 1.0 with an engine transplant even if you tell them its the exact same engine its strange but have you tried 1.3 cams yet mate and a full exhausts system i could get away off the mark better than most of my friends when i had my 1.0 just with a full exhaust system

I think that sounds best mate. Does putting 1.3 cams in with the standard exhaust make much of a differance?

 

[jim_bling]

from what i have read yea mate not like 20 million more break but there is a bit of a differance

 

[johnhum]

ok mate. what type of price am i looking at for 1.3 cams, either from a person or from a scrap yard? and how much work would it take to replace them as im an amature under the bonnet?

 

[jim_bling]

not sure man and honestly im an amature as well but i was shocked when i found out how esy it actually was and i dont mind lending a hand

 

[frank]

ok mate. what type of price am i looking at for 1.3 cams, either from a person or from a scrap yard? and how much work would it take to replace them as im an amature under the bonnet?

they usually fetch about £30-£40 on here john, but fitting them is a bit "technical" tho

 

[Alienfish360]

between £40 and £50 usually, but be sure to check your clearances are within spec.

 

[johnhum]

cheers for the posts everyone. If some come up for sale and i have the money spare i probably will get some and thanks for the offer to help mate but since its 'technical' i think ill give my uncle a couple of quid to do it (he's a machanic)

 

[Seb_]

Does anyone got a picture of the airbox modification, sounds simple andinteresting!

Thanks

Seb

 

[pollyp]

i'll post afew pics soon

 

[pollyp]

first i dremelled the original peashooter off the airbox and enlarged the hole until it's the same size as the inner bore of the drain pipe i'll be fitting.

 

[pollyp]

a short piece would be bonded onto the airbox. i tried hot glue but that just peeled off shortly after, so i tried supergluing the hardened hotglue to the airbox and it sticks on securely now.

 

[pollyp]

join the airbox to the cold air inlet pipe with a silicone coupling tube. i tried those flexible aluminium ducting before but they always just fatigue and crack after afew weeks due to continuous engine vibration movement, hence i use the silicone coupler.

 

[pollyp]

the CAI is made from a 55mm drain pipe and 45deg elbows, routed down below the gearbox.
joined with black ducktape.

 

[pollyp]

the other 45deg elbow inlet ends just next to the splashguard, not too low to risk scooping water on rainy days.

 

[johnhum]

that doesnt look bad for drain pipe!

 

[Seb_]

Thanks for the pics mate ! Nice, cheap and efficient job
So do you feel the difference now while driving?

Seb

 

[pollyp]

as mentioned in #11 ^

there's a slight difference at high speeds & revs with and without the pipe.

 

[ollyc98]

I'd drill a hole or 2 in the top of the drain pipe to avoid hydrolock.

The air is just as cool next to the battery so I think it's an unnecessary danger having a scoop that low

 

[johnhum]

I'd drill a hole or 2 in the top of the drain pipe to avoid hydrolock.

The air is just as cool next to the battery so I think it's an unnecessary danger having a scoop that low

so do you think it would be better to just have a larger diameter pipe in the same place?

 

[ollyc98]

Yeah that's what I'd do, or if you're really cool you could fit a chavtastic bonnet vent

 

[johnhum]

haha, i think next to the battery will be ok

 

[pollyp]

aye. i tried it before like this.

not sure about bonnet scoops catching water into the inlet during rain

 

[ollyc98]

If you want a really good place then cut the pipe into the passenger side wing as the air in there is ice cold even in sunlight, plus you can't pick up water there. I forgot that next to the battery you have the coolant bottle which will heat up slightly

 

[Tom 1.0]

or even simpler if less asthetically pleasing....

total cost not including the GA16 airbox, about £10?

 

[johnhum]

or even simpler if less asthetically pleasing....

total cost not including the GA16 airbox, about £10?

what pipe did u use mate?

 

[ollyc98]

Yeah but the manifold would heat up the tube. Anyway don't make the mistake of thinking bigger is better. A smaller diameter pipe will give a smoother air delivery.

The main intake restriction is in the inlet manifold, I think someone found out the standard airbox is good for 150bhp. Port match the manifold or replace it all together.

 

[pollyp]

I've also bypassed the coolant pipe that runs through the TB. Keeps the TB cooler hence inlet air temp. i read that a thick high insulation type inlet manifold gasket may help keep the manifold cooler but haven't found any for k11 yet.

 

[Tom 1.0]

Yeah but the manifold would heat up the tube. Anyway don't make the mistake of thinking bigger is better. A smaller diameter pipe will give a smoother air delivery.

The main intake restriction is in the inlet manifold, I think someone found out the standard airbox is good for 150bhp. Port match the manifold or replace it all together.

i'm aware bigger isnt better mate

the heat from the manifold is minimised by the heat sheild over the anifold as well as the insulated piping,

smaller piping may result in smoother delivery but with the larger air box i felt the better route was the bigger pipe ( the standard GA16 tubing wasnt much thicker )

but for ease of fitting and cheapest way possibel, i think it is is more justifible than all the bends and pipes of the other methods, though i am in no way saying mine is a better idea, just another way (Y)

and yeah there would be much more gain in modifying the inlet manifold for greater gains, look at franks car, but to get any real gains from that route you need either lots of money or loads of experience/knowledge...

 

[joesouthgate]

Its not the size its how you use it

 

[ollyc98]

Its not the size its how you use it

That's not what my gf said lols

 

[Alienfish360]

I'd drill a hole or 2 in the top of the drain pipe to avoid hydrolock.

The air is just as cool next to the battery so I think it's an unnecessary danger having a scoop that low

You won't get anywhere near hydrolock, water is commonly injected into engines during combustion for cooling.

 

[Alienfish360]

Port match the manifold or replace it all together.

the area between the filter and the engine should be approximately 130% engine capacity, so the volume between filter and engine on a CG10 should be at least 1.3 litres.

 

[ollyc98]

You won't get anywhere near hydrolock, water is commonly injected into engines during combustion for cooling.

Lol at that statement.

Yes water is injected into extremely high powered engines to prevent pinking but on a micra it'd kill it.

On a sealed inlet system if you suck up a pint of water no air can get through and the engine sucks up pure water leading to a completely useless engine

 

[Alienfish360]

Lol at that statement.

Yes water is injected into extremely high powered engines to prevent pinking but on a micra it'd kill it.

On a sealed inlet system if you suck up a pint of water no air can get through and the engine sucks up pure water leading to a completely useless engine

plenty of road turbo cars use it, especially in USA where octane ratings on fuel is lower.

You think that you will get 1 pint of water through a filter? quick enough to hydro lock an engine? Or suck a sufficiently large amount through an intake system when there's not much vacuum and against gravity?

With the way a lot of these are mounted, you'd more than likely just pull it off in a puddle rather than sucking water up.

Even with the intake submerged you're highly unlikely to damage the engine, it will cut out from lack of oxygen before you get enough water to lock.

 

[joesouthgate]

Maybe you should ask Hoodedreaper ay Alienfish seeing as he hydrolocked his engine and killed it going through a flood...