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Agent_Sm1ths Activ

Pity they didn't work out, the shape looked quite good from your pics. You seem to have lost a lot of the light from the middle section. I've actually turned the voltage down on my prototype pic as they were too bright for the camera. I'm sure the headlights will still drown them out though when they're on. Theyre more for show than anything really.

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So, there just wasn't enough oomph with the 998cc engine.
Sourced this tidy little 1.4 with only 16k on it.

Took the lid off to check the state of it and was really impressed.

Now I just needed a good couple of days to do the swap.
Oh, and an engine crane.
Checked out the hire price of cranes and it was cheaper to buy and resell on ebay, thus taking the pressure off returning a hired item.



Took two and a half days to do on my own. One day to remove, one to fit, and then half to put all the pipes and aircon back. As you can see, it can be done with the bonnet and bumper still fitted. You have to raise the bonnet a bit higher than the stay lifts it.
When changing to a 1.4. Do you have to buy new alternator, powersteering etc.... or does the 1.0 stuff work fine on it?
 
Just swap any differing ancillary parts from your engine to the new one. Aircon has nothing to do with it. Just swap your pulleys if you need to. Ecu from a 1.4 manual, if yours is manual, and you'll also need the immu from the steering barrel and the chip from the key.

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Just swap any differing ancillary parts from your engine to the new one. Aircon has nothing to do with it. Just swap your pulleys if you need to. Ecu from a 1.4 manual, if yours is manual, and you'll also need the immu from the steering barrel and the chip from the key.

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Cheer matey

One more question do you know how much manual engine and ecu go for and best place to look?
 
No new updates yet. Been too busy with work to sort it fully. Ordered another Nissan ECU for the connector off it, to make a jumper/patch cable to the Megasquirt. It'll be more plug and play then. And finally, no, there is nothing extra required other than tapping into the inlet manifold for the map sensor pipe. As it's the ms3x version all the sensors connect directly and just require calibrating.

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So finally got it wired up. Ive had to add an additional relay to bring in the ecm relay, Thanks Nissan! Anyway now that's sorted i can bell out the wiring in the car just to make sure it's all correct before powering it up.



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So I've got a dilemma. Do i make up an ignition driver unit to fire the OEM coilpacks, or do i buy LS2 coilpacks that Megasquirt can fire natively.

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So for now I've decided to go ahead and make up an OEM coilpacks ignitor box. I can the use original or aftermarket coilpacks.



You may have noticed a numberplate light grommet fits perfectly.

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So finally removed the old handbrake cables.



One of them was completely seized up.
Found out why.



Both replaced now and smooth as you like.

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Testing out my oem coil packs ignitor box I've made. Used LED's to simulate the coil packs for now.



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Tbh I'm not sure what percentage tint I had done. I had a Fiesta that had privacy glass and I asked the window tinting ppl ( so no, I didn't do it) to do it to the same spec. It's a smokey tint rather than a grey one when you look through from the inside. It was only £80. The rear window is particularly hard to do I believe as it is curved in both directions.

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So I decided to wrap some parts of the interior trim as I had a bit of wrap lying around.





This piece was really difficult and took over an hour.

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Been either really busy with work or its been chucking it down, so not had much chance to further the Megasquirt build.
Managed to fit this connector so that I can plug from the OEM ECU or the coilpack ignitor unit I made for the Megasquirt.





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for the pop out window does it need the plastic trim need to be changed as im wanting to keep the old part covering panels
looking good tho!
All the trim is different and so is the rear seatbelt bolt/spacer. You need the piece I've wrapped, the lower panel with the pocket, and the rear panel where the rear seatbelt goes.

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Got my arse in gear and finished making the coilpack ignition driver box.
Knocked up a bracket quickly to mount it to the bulkhead behind the airbox.



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So lots of you want to fit coilovers but they're expensive for the Micra.
Here's one way of how to modify Corsa C ones to fit.

I'm in the process of having some parts machined for an alternative way, which I'll document in the future.

First open up the top oval hole as it is just a little too high. You need to file or grind its lower edge by 1-2mm.
Original on the left, modified on the right.



That's the easiest part.

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Now get your Micra top mount and prise back the retaining tabs.



Separate all the parts.



Screw the nuts partially back on the bolts so you don't damage the threads when you tap them out.







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The Micra part is almost bigger than the Corsa bearing. That's just not good and it'll cause issues.



It only sits on it by about 1/2 to 1mm.




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Made a new plate and refitted the bolts. You need to drill 8mm holes and then hammer the bolts back in.



Also drill a 12mm hole in the middle of the plate.
So now the new baseplate looks like this.



All of the bearing covered now.



You can put the paper gasket back on now too.




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Now open up this hole to 12mm.



We're going to need a spacer as the gap is too big just to screw this down to the baseplate, it'll deform the rubber too much.
20mm marine stainless bar with a 12mm hole drilled out. The spacer height is also 12mm.



It sits here.



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Tighten down the nylock nut to the correct torque.



It screws down more than this. I just put it on finger tight for the pic.

It should now look like this.




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I know Frank, but it was the quickest way just to get them sorted. I was going to drill out the Corsa bearing and space that out to the rubber mount like the Micras. I'll see how it goes first.

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I have modified the other leg differently to this one I've posted, but it's only mocked up at the mo to try different spacers and bearings for a more comfortable ride. My aim is to utilise the whole of the Micra topmounts with only having to open up the centre hole.

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