Adjusting stock panhard rod

martinb

martinb

Ex. Club Member
if the weld was goog enough is it possible to....

1. set car at desired height and remove panhard rod
2. mark how much needs to be cut once axles etc are straight
3. weld back together

would this put stress on the joint

is it safe

and would you attempt it?

(just trying to save money !)

cheers all

this may have been an idea but ours isnt cylindrical is it??
 
personally, i would cut the 8mm out, weld it together, then weld a tube alongside it like the rally boys do :grinning:
 
thing is frank im going low, lower than i did before ive got 13 inch minilites with stretch 175's on so im not sure if 8 mm is enough, when you say a bar do you mean a cylindrical bar in the groove of the panhard rod?

all the way or just across the weld?

my car is on its bump stops in the rear without springs,its not being driven,its now on axel stands

it was only momentary like that for height purposes, but will go close to that as possible with coilovers

i guess there could be like an indexing table

for instance

50mm lowered = 8mm
55mm lowered = 9mm
60mm lowered = 10

and so on etc, i dont have access to a welder (friend at work) so would have to be spot on really first time

did you check the link?possible if i got some steel and got it made? just thinking if i can make it cheaper mate

oooh ive been a member on the '''TALK TO FRANK'' show!!hah ha
 
lol mart :wasntme: mine,s dropped about 50mm and now the p/r is dead horizontal, or at its furthest throw (so any lower and it would need lengthening again, not shortening eh)
and my rear wheels have a 5mm difference in dish/offset, but it was,nt quite enough tbh (8mm would,ve been spot-on)
so if you are going to drop it about 100mm you may find that the p/r is at the same angle (albeit upwards, not downwards) and i may not need shortening ?
 
i guess i should put all the minilites on and check once the car is lowered just on its bump stops, ill have a look and let you know, the wheels are 13 x7 et of around 6, about 2mm past the arch on the rear but will need the front frank camber trick to be legal, looks mean just want it to be safe etc

have been thinking of diy coilovers, big craze at the moment ill get some links up soon, very easy to do, well the fronts are( rears are questionable!?

cheers
 
This is realy easy to do, I've been planing it and I'm going to be using a starlet panhard rod.

You will need
a welder
1 starlet panhard rod
1 lenth of threaded rod
3 nilock nuts
1 can of black paint

It's quight simple all that's needed to be done is....
1.Make a cut 6 inches in
2. Take 2 of the 3 nilock nuts and weld one at the end of both cut pieces
3. Take the threaded bar and screw into the small cut off and weld round the nut
4. Screw the 3rd nilock nut onto the threaded bar, this will be the locking nut for when the rod has been addjusted
5. screw the longer of the cut sections onto the threaded rod and addjust to required size then lock with the nut
6. Paint to the desired colour
 
What about it is dodgy? The thing I can think of being any different is weight, it's not going to be as light as a whiteline rod
 
making it is cheaper, ive tried to find an adjustable one, no luck

mph wants around a 100, easy when you got it stani

starlet panhard rod is fiver from breakers yard

welding is free (if you have access)

price of threaded pole and nuts around 10-15 quid

job done for no more than 25 pound at tops

anyone wanna swap for jdm dash top holder??
 
im interested in this, what size is the hole in the starlet p/r? will the bar be strong enough? im gonna get me a starlet p/r asap :D
 
Glen said:
BODGE BODGE BODGE thats all that is its only 100 save up for it and do your car right.
Click to expand...

dont be such a numpty! just because its cheaper doesnt mean its worse. if toyota want to do most of the work in making one, which i then modify, whats wrong with that? maybe you just have more money than sense :D
 
no i dont want a bodged car its stupid cutting and welding parts for suspension and stuff as thats what u dont want breaking at 70mph
 
Glen said:
no i dont want a bodged car its stupid cutting and welding parts for suspension and stuff as thats what u dont want breaking at 70mph
Click to expand...

bodged???? be quiet man, how the hell do you think there made in the first place fwn companys dont grow them in trees pal...

i can weld very well and im being put through 6 codes at £1200 each by my boss so i think my welds are more than good enough ta and i do plan to push mine a lot further than 70mph. so you just carry on doing what you do with you car and pay however much you want for parts and we'll do the same.

Ed this is the one i was telling you about, if you want more info gi a ring bud and i can sort you out with some pics too (Y)
 
oh here we go again micras69 shooting his mouth again saying he does everything and companys put research into doing cars
 
Back to the OP!

When you have lowered your suspension you need to adjust your panhard rod (by screwing it in/by cutting and welding it) right?

How do you know what length to make it?

Do you lower the suspension and set the rod to be long enough to fit back on?

Should you load the suspension slightly?

Should you set up your tracking/camber/castor at the front before or after fitting it?
 
How would you know if I'm shouting or not :suspect: and let's be fair there isn't a lot to micras and if you have owned them for a lenth of time you start to do a lot to them and replace most so yea I have as you say "done it all".... Just seems to me your jealous

I wouldn't be having a go if you wernt talking such twoddle
 
Back to the OP!

When you have lowered your suspension you need to adjust your panhard rod (by screwing it in/by cutting and welding it) right?

How do you know what length to make it?

Do you lower the suspension and set the rod to be long enough to fit back on?

Should you load the suspension slightly?

Should you set up your tracking/camber/castor at the front before or after fitting it?
 
Back to the OP!

When you have lowered your suspension you need to adjust your panhard rod (by screwing it in/by cutting and welding it) right?

How do you know what length to make it?

Do you lower the suspension and set the rod to be long enough to fit back on?

Should you load the suspension slightly?

Should you set up your tracking/camber/castor at the front before or after fitting it?
Click to expand...

Agreed
 
Surely the adjustable panhard rod tree is right next to the coil spring tree.

Martyboy, Micras - that modded starlet rod looks good, as does your description Micras - however the use of the nylock nut welded to the shaft could be better. For a threaded fixing the rule of thumb is that it should have a treaded depth at least 150% of the thread diameter, those nuts don't look to be deep enough. A better solution would be to turn up some top hat shaped threaded inserts that fit snugly into the tube and that have a length of at least the 150% of the tread diameter. I bet that its possible to buy a ready made turnbuckle with a right hand thread on one end and left handed on the other, a fixed nut in the middle and the associated inserts, these could then be welded into the starlet beam and would make an on car adjustable rod.

For a cut and rewelded rod its probably best to cut off one mounting eye, remove some length and then weld the mounting eye back on. That way the ammount of welded joins is not being increased and if the welding is halfway decent the rod will be no weaker than in its original unmodified state.

Why not set the car up at its desired ride height, with 2/3 tank of fuel and whatever load you regularly carry. Measure the distance between the nearside rear wheel rim to the arch, measurement A. Then measure the distance from the wheel rim to the offside wheel arch, measurement B. Mesurement B will be shorter that A, this reflects how the flattening out of the panhard rod has shifted the axle over towards the offside. Take B away from A and divide by 2, that will give you the length that you need
to shorten the panhard rod by to re center the axle.

It might be worth allowing for an extra clearence on whichever side closes up under compresion if the acrh tyre gap is going to be extreamly tight.
 
good idea mark!!will definately look into it

problem i have is access to a welder, my boss has one but time is tight with him and i wouldnt want to measure it wrong and then have to have him keep re welding it

and @ glen

for me my car is cheap, done at a budget WITHOUT compromising on safety, yes i could by a whiteline one, but bank says no

i would also want 800 pound coilovers but again for a car that has only cost me a quarter of that , it wouldnt make much sense to do that now would it??

its currently sitting on standard shocks aall round with the springs cut in half, its not being driven before i get blasted,its just how i got it!:laugh:

once someone makes a decent one, with measurements and plans the craze will kick off, the guy in the link i posted at the top spent only 11.50 (owned his panhard rod already? and i bet thats fine

as frank put, the rally boys cut and weld them and there put under immense more forces than anyone of our road going motors (except my work van!!! speedbump+ Van = colin mcrae jump!)

micras, dont let em grind you down. aslong as what you do is safe for yourself and others around you nobody will have a problem,

going scrappy saturday with a shoopping list

starlet panhard rod
matiz shocks and springs
rally spec cg13de buried in umoungst the pile of sh1lty renault and peugeot engines (yeah right)

Frank make someink will ya!!...........................please(Y)
 
I like the idea of a bar with normal thread on one half and reverse on the other. then weld a nut to the middle to allow you to turn it, then depending on what the starlet rod looks like weld in some threaded inserts or somthing, on car adjustable rod. you would also need a locking nut like on a trackrod-end.
 
right this cost me no more than £12 inc the panhard rod and i used 8.8 grade 18x2.5 threaded bar
 

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micras69 said:
right this cost me no more than £12 inc the panhard rod and i used 8.8 grade 18x2.5 threaded bar
Click to expand...

see, that looks mint!!well done mate!!

how is it held in on the left?have you welded a nut inside? and do the bushes fit in fine from the micra or are you using the starlet ones?
 
cheers mart, there's a nut inside and TIG welding to cap it off so you carnt see it :p i just took the rubber out of the left for welding just to be on the safe side mate but ive just left the starlet ones in there both the same
 
im shure there would be a way, mabey weld the threaded rod strate to the rubber housing on the left?

im going to try it on the trailing arms next :D
 
What you trying to say like? Don't worry i'll let folks know all I could see failing is welds if there pap or week threads
 
would sooner use proper l/h thread and r/h thread rosejoints personally (tho these are only 10mm ones) and threaded into a 25mm solid ally bar
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Errrr not being funny Micras69 but them pics you put up are the same ones on the starlet forum. So are you showing us that thats what you did or???
 
easy tristan, hows it going mate, yeah i just checked the link, same photos..........epic fail

what you playing at? get some pics up of your one mate:down:
 
sorry guys no there not mine there 10secgt's of the gtt forum vie emaild him a cupple of times about what way to do it. i dint have any pics to hand and mine is the exactly the same so i just used his, im genraly sorry didnt intend to pass other peoples pics off my own :down:

frank, thats a good idea mate but wouldnt you need to extend the threads on the rose joints?
 
:suspect: thought they were the same

But yea hey Mart, give me a shout when you can, got your txt but no cred so let me know when were taking a trip on on the road together (Y)
 
GA16Seeper said:
:suspect: thought they were the same

But yea hey Mart, give me a shout when you can, got your txt but no cred so let me know when were taking a trip on on the road together (Y)
Click to expand...

will do mate, come over tonight if your about, got loads of different stuff since you last saw it, including a bride bucket seat (it pays to have a jdm allstars drifter as your boss!)

just one ring me from somewhere and ill bell ya back mate
 

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