1400 rally car shenanigans

[Huggy444]

So that's the car dropped off for the work to be done
Got the ecu back from being mapped and plugged it in, ran ok on the short journey to the unit even though it was mapped richer etc (I assume, ECU's/mapping confuse me...)

Can't wait to see what it's like, and will hopefully get it on the dyno at college soon

 

[Huggy444]

Had a phone call from my rather bemused mechanic... He's fitted everything else on without a problem, welded and mated the exhaust system to the manifold etc etc all was going good...

Before cranking over the engine after fitting cams and stuff he turned it all over by hand and one of the bloody camshafts snapped cleanly in half!! Looked like a manufacturing defect as the snap was clean, so phoned Matt H who was pretty apologetic and sent a replacement out.

Car will be finished tomorrow, and I'll it up on my way home this Friday

 

[MaxK11C]

So you're not coming to mine in the rally mobile then!

 

[Huggy444]

So you're not coming to mine in the rally mobile then!

Seeing as it's heart is fairly fooked at the moment, that'll be a no!

You'll see Fred the Fiesta....

 

[Huggy444]

Picked the car up from Q-Prep earlier today after work, I'm in love with the car again
It's the same as when i first put the 1348cc engine in, just can't wait until I get out in the Rockingham Stages on the 6th december!

Still breaking in the new camshafts, loving the power delivery, not hit the new 7.5k limiter yet but it just keeps pulling all the way to the red
Pics and vids tomorrow

 

[Huggy444]

Well it's super awesome, drove it hard earlier to the limiter and my god it's quick, and not just quick for a micra!
Lovely burbley engine note, turning into a scream at 7k hehe... Cam specs are below, pretty agressive.
ECU is running faultlessly (Thanks Tornado Systems), no issues at all so lovely work from Quentin and his team at Q-Prep
Anyway... Pictures (Thumbnails)

 

[frank]

thats a lot of tuning info being revealed there alex

 

[Huggy444]

thats a lot of tuning info being revealed there alex

Yeah I know, was thinking about it but I'm not in a competitive championship at the moment - it's purely for fun in 2016 which will be nice!

If someone finds the info helpful, they can copy it! Not showing my ECU settings tho haha

 

[Low Rider]

They're well known cam specs though, so there's nothing to give away really.

I'm sure you'd run something very different if it were an all out competition engine with about double the lift at TDC and a lot less street manners...

 

[frank]

and john hardman,s recommendation too dave ?

 

[Low Rider]

and john hardman,s recommendation too dave ?

fixored

 

[Huggy444]

fixored

Haha! Confidential shiz here

Tbh I don't know what John's recommendation was about, the company fitting them spent a while chatting to Matt for optimum timing etc so they should be as good as possible!

 

[Huggy444]

Gahhhhh....

Went to the Reading meet last night, was good to meet @SirChris and Joe as well as a few others
On the way home however I started getting what can only be described as a 'limiter' or a stutter at 5k+ RPM (It moves around between 5-7k)
I had driven the car for about 250 miles before this problem arose, whats everyone's thoughts? In neutral I can rev it to the 7.5k limiter without issue which adds to the weirdness :/



Obviously it has Almera injectors plopped in, my thoughts is maybe they're dirty and clogged as they were from a scrap car?
Or it could the MAF/Throttle Body starting to die?
**** spark plugs?
Not a clue where to start, and only a week till the Rockingham Stages.

 

[SuperUno]

MAF/TB is where I would start, but look for any error codes.

 

[Huggy444]

MAF/TB is where I would start, but look for any error codes.

I'll be able to check for codes tomorrow with the diagnostic gear at the garage, and will also steal the TB off their micra loan car haha!

Sticking on my spare front lambda sensor as well

 

[pollyp]

could it be some form of lean-out hesitation from fuel supply issue at high end loads?
brief drop in pressure?
some hidden ecu fuel cutting cos of certain sequence of rpm/mph/load?
ie I had to disconnect ecu speedo sensor cos it was making ecu lean-out dangerously in 4th/5th when speed goes above a programmed threshold for a given rpm (it's like a fuel cut speed limiter)

trying to datalog all the sensors whilst having these issues will help pinpoint any abnormal causes.

 

[Huggy444]

In reference to data log, you mean like a laptop connected to the OBD monitoring pressures etc? I don't have one, hopefully the garage will do!

I'm phoning the mapper tomorrow to see what he says, he's done a lot of micras to my spec so hopefully he can lend some light

I'll run through your other suggestions tomorrow and see what happens

 

[Guesst4094]

When mine started having problems it was almost like coming off the throttle, say going 70 then it would just die and go down to 50 then pick back up again and do it at any random interval it felt like it, normally going up hill.. And it would only come up with the code P0171, It also cut out when cold and took a while to accelerate, I ended up changing the front lambda, throttle body fuel filter and checking for fuel blockage to no avail, it was only after I got another throttle body that I changed the MAF sensor and all was fine, did not even put the new throttle body on it.

 

[Huggy444]

I'll definitely steal the MAF from the other micra tomorrow then and see what happens

 

[frank]

my money is on a P0353 missfire/coilpack breaking down

 

[Huggy444]

my money is on a P0353 missfire/coilpack breaking down

P0353?

I'll steal coilpacks from their car as well then and see. Got new spark plugs coming to pop in

 

[Guesst4094]

What spark plugs you got coming? Would highly recommend the Bosch super 4s, put them on my white one and it made a noticeable difference in acceleration, the old ones where not that bad either.

 

[Huggy444]

What spark plugs you got coming? Would highly recommend the Bosch super 4s, put them on my white one and it made a noticeable difference in acceleration, the old ones where not that bad either.

Think I'll be getting NGK iridiums, whatever the local motor factors have in stock that aren't crap to be honest!

 

[fuzzy-hair-man]

my money is on a P0353 missfire/coilpack breaking down

Your symptoms sound a lot like what happened to my camry once, the alternator wasn't charging properly and at high revs it just didn't have enough juice to run properly. So I'd check you're getting a decent voltage as well.

 

[Huggy444]

Think I've established what was causing the fault!
I'd been driving the car in the rain with the GrpA airbox, and I think water had worked its way in and started confusing the MAF sensor leading to the issues.... Hence, the car had no fault codes when I ran it and the car is driving without fault now

New tyres are here for the Rockingham Stages 2015 (This Sunday), went for Nankang NS2-R in 185/60/R13 wheels in their soft compound, will be interesting to see how they fare compared to my old Avon slicks

 

[SuperUno]

Rockingham is odd that it is VERY cold and damp 99% of the year, so getting any tyre heat is hard work and thus getting grip can be a challenge...

Enjoy it, it's a good event

 

[SuperUno]

You can usually tell if water has got in as when it dries out it leave dirty water marks.

 

[Huggy444]

Yeah when I pulled it all apart there were watery looking stains inside it so when time permits i'll make up a flap behind the front grille.

Done Rockingham for three years now, always cold and wet and the weather predicts the same again this year unsuprisngly

 

[Huggy444]

Well, had a very good run at the Rockingham Sunday Stages! Unfortunatly I couldn't do the full weekend racing due to work
Anyway, as per usual it was damp and greasy so the semi slicks rarely had a chance to warm up - but when they did get warm they were pretty good! I think I'm going to buy some Hankook Z209's for the next events in soft.

First stage went fine, was still dry but even with the suspension set relatively softly the car still squirmed all over the place but by the second stage loop the tyres had heated up and were pretty good - This pattern carried on for the whole rally, I'd say there brilliant for track days and road rallies but a bit hard for rallies (Nangkang NS-2R even in the soft compound)

Second stage the throttle body started playing up when the car was hot and at high revs, we sprayed a metric **** tonne of carb cleaner down it which seemed to fix it for a few stages.

Third stage I stupidly forgot to refill the petrol tank and the car stalled causing me to loose at least 30 seconds through the stage. Decided also to stiffen up the damping in service as the track was getting more grip as the day went on.

All the other stages went without fault, few little spins here and there due to either oil on the track or me being crap.

Made a couple of videos, a 'highlights' and a full video of the last stage.

Full run:


Highlights:


So the final result was a 2nd in class, just 2 seconds behind 1st in class! Annoying as if I'd just put some petrol in the car between two and three I'd have easily won but thats motorsport for you!

Anyway, now the car is back at home I checked it all over and I put a new TB on which fixed the engine issue and I also decided to grind away more metal at the front to get the airbox as far away as possible from the manifold to keep it cooler. This has created some clearance issues with the bonnet braces so I'm gonna cut them buggers out as well at some point!

 

[Huggy444]

I noticed when giving the car a good clean and strip before being put away for winter that there was water sitting in the passenger footwell - assumed the bits under the scuttle panel were blocked up so took all that off.

Now this car, as far as I was aware, was totally rust free - never been welded, no soft patches, nowt.

The bit beneath the scuttle panel is shagged, will need cutting out and a new panel welded in - sending it off to a garage for this as although I can weld (badly), it's a bit much for me to try and do

 

[Guesst4094]

I've heard about the K11s rotting out along there, never actually seen it before

 

[Huggy444]

I've heard about the K11s rotting out along there, never actually seen it before

I've never seen/heard of it rusting there tbh, I've heard that it gets blocked up and then fills the footwells... Annoying, especially as I've just spent a few hundred on a new brake setup.

 

[pollyp]

maybe during last windscreen job the surface was badly treated/primed and rust continued to leach out under the paint?

 

[Huggy444]

maybe during last windscreen job the surface was badly treated/primed and rust continued to leach out under the paint?

Not sure, I know when it was out the garage slapped a load of rust treatment onto it - but the windscreen fitter (external company) didn't want to wait for them to clean it up, tbh it was bad then as well

 

[pollyp]

Not sure, I know when it was out the garage slapped a load of rust treatment onto it - but the windscreen fitter (external company) didn't want to wait for them to clean it up, tbh it was bad then as well

rust never sleeps, even through xmas.

when mine was recently replaced, I found it's had a new screen before which was badly prepped and so the top of the frame had loads rust which caused the crack.
once the guys got the screen off they said ppl usually just paint primer straight over to save time (but this obviously doesn't stop rust). I actually insisted that I'd wirebrush the rust off myself while I was there (ain't 100% but better than leaving the rust there).

since time = money, I'm guessing the cheap jobs will simply replace the glass asap with little quality treatment, bish bash bosh next customer.
whereas with the expensive ones, ur paying for their extra time to carefully prep, treat any rust and cure the area fully so it'll last longer.

 

[Huggy444]

rust never sleeps, even through xmas.

when mine was recently replaced, I found it's had a new screen before which was badly prepped and so the top of the frame had loads rust which caused the crack.
once the guys got the screen off they said ppl usually just paint primer straight over to save time (but this obviously doesn't stop rust). I actually insisted that I'd wirebrush the rust off myself while I was there (ain't 100% but better than leaving the rust there).

since time = money, I'm guessing the cheap jobs will simply replace the glass asap with little quality treatment, bish bash bosh next customer.
whereas with the expensive ones, ur paying for their extra time to carefully prep, treat any rust and cure the area fully so it'll last longer.

Exactly what happened with me I guess...

We'll take the screen out ourselves this time then do the welding, just pay to get it fitted properly and I'll stare the hole time making sure he does it properly

 

[r-reg-sr]

Co pilot excitement has always been a corner weight advantage i heard.

 

[Huggy444]

Ok.... So, changed the TB/MAF to one I had lying around in the garage and the symptom still persists (Slight stuttering at high RPM when very hot after hard drive - no 'limiter' like thing however)

Kind of confused as to what else could be causing it, I know the new map I have relies heavily on MAF and Lambda sensors so maybe I'll try another lambda sensor if anyone has one?

 

[Huggy444]

New brakes have finally found there way onto the car thanks to Ant from on here
100nx setup, not been a straight swap for me for some reason but I'll explain that when I get to it....
Bought some reconditioned callipers of a rally mate for a bargain price, then got discs pads and another set of calipers plus carriers from Ant.
Used the reconditioned calipers so have a spare set of 100nx calipers if anyone wants them? Pm me

Decided to slap some paint on them before fitting because why not.....

Then unbolted all the old crap from the car, slapped the new stuff on with the obligatory washer between the hub and the caliper carrier to space the disc nicely. Noticed however when I tried to fit the 'metal pad retaining clip things' that they foul on the disc so Im going to file away at the carrier.... Or just run no clips?
Everything else fits up nicely though

 

[The Jamm]

Where'd you buy your steering wheel mate ?

 

[Huggy444]

Where'd you buy your steering wheel mate ?

I got my wheel from McGill Motorsport, £35 odd, it's an ok wheel but it is wearing quickly...

Are the pictures in my above post working?

 

[K.Anderson]

Yes there working


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pollyp]

replied on fb

 

[The Jamm]

I got my wheel from McGill Motorsport, £35 odd, it's an ok wheel but it is wearing quickly...

Are the pictures in my above post working?

Cool cars looking good, had a chance to try out the new brakes yet?

 

[Huggy444]

Cool cars looking good, had a chance to try out the new brakes yet?

Not yet, I'm only at my garage Friday to Tuesday so haven't had a chance to sort it yet! Tomorrow evening I'll crack on

 

[Huggy444]

Brakes all fitted, dremeled half the carrier away but no scraping noise even after much hard braking at 1/2am in the morning.... Will rebleed tomorrow and do a bolt check etc

Now, work at 6am so off to bed....

 

[Huggy444]

I noticed when testing that the front left brake would lock up first (Not good, especially when braking hard on track as it will cause the car to slide one way) so I stripped the brakes again and re-greased the sliders etc.
Noticed the front right caliper was leaking fluid slightly, tightened the brake line going into it and it seems to be ok now. Quickly rebled the system but didnt have time to fix it, no reason why the car should be pulling now anyway.
@pollyp You mentioned the discs might need to be laved down to get the right diameter, but all look's good now, theres only 4mm between the disc edge and the pad which should be fine

I then got onto moving the passenger seat back a bit - my new navvy is 6ft so was a bit cramped when he got in last time, managed to move the seat back about 50-60mm. Excuse the messy looking floor, car is in need of some paint.

 

[pollyp]

sticking out 4mm past the pads is wayyy too much

it needs to be lathed down till it's flush to the pads like this

 

[Huggy444]

sticking out 4mm past the pads is wayyy too much

it needs to be lathed down till it's flush to the pads like this

Damn, I'll grab them off again and get the machinist to take 3mm off the diameter.

What is the reason for them wanting to be flush out of interest?

 

[pollyp]

Damn, I'll grab them off again and get the machinist to take 3mm off the diameter.

What is the reason for them wanting to be flush out of interest?

- to clear the caliper & carrier under all conditions
- the extra un-used metal beyond the pad dia doesn't contribute to braking
- removing that useless material reduces inertia