OP
OP
I keep on forgetting to do this... Once I've got the suspension back in one piece I'll see it for a hard drive and see
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1400 rally car shenanigans
- Thread starter Huggy444
- Start date
I keep on forgetting to do this... Once I've got the suspension back in one piece I'll see it for a hard drive and see
OP
OP
Okkkk.....
So after the last rally I had a couple of issues, namely the bolts for the rear drivers-side damper falling out somewhere during special stage 8 (Ooops) and snapping a front stud. Only half an hours work, but nowhere had the right bolts so had to order from Nissan and took aggeeessss to arrive
So it cost £15 for two bolts, two nuts and a wheel stud! Not cheap, but rather be using the correct parts and know it's sorted properly.
Whilst all the suspension is accesible, I lowered the car 25mm again so it looks a touch better for Japshow Finale this weekend ( ) and to help on the PodKhana event, hoping to really push hard for a high result this time.
Changing the stud without the 'correct' tools was very easy....
Take the wheel off, and remove discs and caliper.
Soak the stud in WD40/GT85
Use a large G clamp, on the end of the stud to behind the hub and just wind it until the stud starts moving, then tap it out with a hammer
Put the new stud in, and pop a load of washers over the stud then thread an old nut on and just screw the nut down till the stud is seated properly
Nice and shiny.... Would have done all four but Nissan only had one stud in stock.
Then I got bored and painted some tyre names in with Tipex [HASHTAG]#yolo[/HASHTAG] as they say
So after the last rally I had a couple of issues, namely the bolts for the rear drivers-side damper falling out somewhere during special stage 8 (Ooops) and snapping a front stud. Only half an hours work, but nowhere had the right bolts so had to order from Nissan and took aggeeessss to arrive
So it cost £15 for two bolts, two nuts and a wheel stud! Not cheap, but rather be using the correct parts and know it's sorted properly.
Whilst all the suspension is accesible, I lowered the car 25mm again so it looks a touch better for Japshow Finale this weekend (
) and to help on the PodKhana event, hoping to really push hard for a high result this time.Changing the stud without the 'correct' tools was very easy....
Take the wheel off, and remove discs and caliper.
Soak the stud in WD40/GT85
Use a large G clamp, on the end of the stud to behind the hub and just wind it until the stud starts moving, then tap it out with a hammer
Put the new stud in, and pop a load of washers over the stud then thread an old nut on and just screw the nut down till the stud is seated properly
Nice and shiny.... Would have done all four but Nissan only had one stud in stock.
Then I got bored and painted some tyre names in with Tipex [HASHTAG]#yolo[/HASHTAG] as they say
The vent being the spare of the three pipes in the engine bay mate (after removing the carbon canister) or is there a vent at the rear as well?
pollyp
Club Member
the 2-way fuel tank vent pipe.
during parking it allows excess pressure of vapours to flow out the tank, carbon captures the HC, remaining gas vents out.
during running it allows air to enter the tank whilst the fuel volume goes down & equalises the pressure.
if the vent pipe was in any way restricted, the tank would create a lower vacuum pressure as the fuel volume decreases.
this lower pressure applied across the fuel supply & return lines would fight against the fuel regulator and begin to reduce fuel pressure which could lead to lean-out.
it's abit like trying to continuously suck a drink through a straw that's sealed onto a solid container, it get's more difficult till u can't extract any more.
If you were trying to test this a quick and dirty test would be to leave the fuel cap loose go for a drive and see if you get the same behaviour.
OP
OP
As far as I can tell I'm not having vacuum issues, checked the other week.
Been speaking to Matt Humphries who thinks it could be due to an ecu issue, so recommend I get a 1.4 ecu and try that seeing as they're cheap. I've also welded in a lambda nut for the second lambda sensor the coilpack cars have, might make a difference however most rally people don't run them.
Seeing as it'll be easier to fit the ecu with the dash out (correct me if I'm wrong please people) im going to strip back and neaten up the bits I've added to the loom at the same time.
Been speaking to Matt Humphries who thinks it could be due to an ecu issue, so recommend I get a 1.4 ecu and try that seeing as they're cheap. I've also welded in a lambda nut for the second lambda sensor the coilpack cars have, might make a difference however most rally people don't run them.
Seeing as it'll be easier to fit the ecu with the dash out (correct me if I'm wrong please people) im going to strip back and neaten up the bits I've added to the loom at the same time.
OP
OP
I've had the dash out before, wasn't easy but I trimmed the dash massively which made it vaguely easier to install.
I'll try first without the ecu then, I'm right in saying the ecu is right up in pretty much the middle of the dash?
OP
OP
frank
Club Member
that lack of 2nd lambda is probably causing some sort of limpmode eh
OP
OP
Yeah quite possibly, however it never caused a problem with 1.0... I'll hopefully find out later on today when I get the car back in one peice
OP
OP
Stripped the dash out of the car today, only took a few minutes in the end!
Ecu is out and the new one should be arriving tomorrow
Got the exhaust lambda nut welded in, but stupidly I marked it up in the wrong place... Ordered a bung for that hole, and welding a new nut in the correct place this week!
Also stripped a fair bit of wire out of the car from the stereo and door sensors etc
Ecu is out and the new one should be arriving tomorrow
Got the exhaust lambda nut welded in, but stupidly I marked it up in the wrong place... Ordered a bung for that hole, and welding a new nut in the correct place this week!
Also stripped a fair bit of wire out of the car from the stereo and door sensors etc
SuperUno
Buy & Sell Member
Bottom / middle part of the dash - easy to find, a pain to remove!
OP
OP
Removing weight from the rally car ALWAYS feels good
Reckon I'll cut out most of the heater whilst it's out, just leave the windscreen demister bit in place
should save loads of weight
OP
OP
Really? Oh fair enough
Just had a quick look at the car anyway, it's all one unit so would be a massive pain in the arse to cut it down! I'll leave it be haha
OP
OP
It is very nice, and very expensive... But you can't find anything else like it for a micra!
Bit of a monopoly market eh, can charge what he likes! Definitely want one though !
The ECU is easy enough to remove with all the dash in. You just need to attack it from both sides to get at the bolts. You won't be disappointed fitting the 1.4 ECU. When I did it was like a different car.
OP
OP
Ecu is all out now
new one is sitting at home waiting for me to fit it this weekend!Just ordered all the parts from Matt Humphries and Bright spark racing.... Cams, 421 manifold, group A airbox and almera N16 1.5/1.8 injectors are go! Never been so excited haha
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OP
OP
Sorry, it's from the almera n16 I think the 1.5 or 1.8 injectors fit? Both top feed injectors, brownish orange colour
How will you manage the fuel?
OP
OP
The injectors fit straight into the car with no modifications, and will fuel acceptably well enough without mapping.
But I will be getting my car mapped soon after they are fitted, hopefully before the 6th of December when I have the Rockingham Stages.
OP
OP
Just a post thats really a reminder to myself of whats been ordered and whats still to be done (boring, sorry):
GrpA 773 Camshafts from MH
GrpA Airbox from MH
4/2/1 Janspeed Manifold from MH + Gaskets
Catch Can
100NX 1.6 Calipers ( Still need to order pads/discs)
Gold Insulating Tape ([HASHTAG]#BareBling[/HASHTAG])
Almera N16 Injectors 1.8 from BSR (Hopefully)
Uprated Engine Mounts from BSR (Hopefully)
Remaping standard ECU - Tornado Systems (Hopefully)
GrpA 773 Camshafts from MH
GrpA Airbox from MH
4/2/1 Janspeed Manifold from MH + Gaskets
Catch Can
100NX 1.6 Calipers ( Still need to order pads/discs)
Gold Insulating Tape ([HASHTAG]#BareBling[/HASHTAG])
Almera N16 Injectors 1.8 from BSR (Hopefully)
Uprated Engine Mounts from BSR (Hopefully)
Remaping standard ECU - Tornado Systems (Hopefully)
Too much money this lad^^
it should go very well once that's all dialled in fella
it should go very well once that's all dialled in fella
OP
OP
I've been working my arse off at Waitrose stocking them shelves like a Mofo, and only done 3 rallies this year so saved by not competing
Can't wait now! Couple of weeks and everything will be fitted, then comes mapping!
I've been working my arse off at Waitrose stocking them shelves like a Mofo, and only done 3 rallies this year so saved by not competing
Can't wait now! Couple of weeks and everything will be fitted, then comes mapping!
I hope you know I was only pulling your leg mate
If its the 2" bore 4-2-1 you might find its quite tight to the exhaust tunnel / ARB (especially if its uprated) I gave mine a few tweeks in the end but they are well made
OP
OP
I hope you know I was only pulling your leg mate
If its the 2" bore 4-2-1 you might find its quite tight to the exhaust tunnel / ARB (especially if its uprated) I gave mine a few tweeks in the end but they are well made
I did guess, you can hardly talk considering the spec of your car
It's the janspeeds one so not sure, the guys I've got fitting it make custom manifolds so I'm sure they'll get it right
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You need the carrier also. I run 100nx brakes on mine.
OP
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Dont forget to fit some 1mm washers inbetween the hub and carrier.
OP
OP
OP
OP
All the parts have been delivered
Sending the ECU now to Mark at Tornado Systems to get chipped - He's making my 1.0 ECU think its a 1.4, whilst also mapping it to remove the dead spot these cars have mid RPM, as well as ensuring it'll run well with the cams and injectors. He's saying cars running similar setups have achieved circa 130hp at the flywheel with this map, so should be getting over my target of 100hp at the wheels
Wrapped up the airbox with Gold reflective tape due to them getting melty in some cars, will make myself a heat shield when the 421 is on the car.
Sending the ECU now to Mark at Tornado Systems to get chipped - He's making my 1.0 ECU think its a 1.4, whilst also mapping it to remove the dead spot these cars have mid RPM, as well as ensuring it'll run well with the cams and injectors. He's saying cars running similar setups have achieved circa 130hp at the flywheel with this map, so should be getting over my target of 100hp at the wheels
Wrapped up the airbox with Gold reflective tape due to them getting melty in some cars, will make myself a heat shield when the 421 is on the car.
OP
OP
This is great progress
I am really looking forward for the results..
Your work at Waitrose did worth it.
Really glad for you.
Thanks
I can't wait for it to be done now, should all be fitted by the end of next week and mapped!14" Almera alloys.Thanks for the tip
Are you running yours on 13/14" wheels?
All the parts have been delivered
Sending the ECU now to Mark at Tornado Systems to get chipped - He's making my 1.0 ECU think its a 1.4, whilst also mapping it to remove the dead spot these cars have mid RPM, as well as ensuring it'll run well with the cams and injectors. He's saying cars running similar setups have achieved circa 130hp at the flywheel with this map, so should be getting over my target of 100hp at the wheels
Wrapped up the airbox with Gold reflective tape due to them getting melty in some cars, will make myself a heat shield when the 421 is on the car.View attachment 45951
Nimbus grill is very good if your making a heat shield up
