1.3 micra clutch change coming.. Give a noob some info.

Niko C

Niko C

Just wanted to edit this to say my brand new clutch is in, and works like a charm. This car is so much fun to drive. Thanks to everybody who took time to reply, but I did leave the job for professionals after all!
 
Buy a haynes manual and follow the instructions. Its simple enough to do on the floor if you can operate basic tools and have some common sense.
 
I've never had a centering tool. The spline from the gearbox holds it central once its in. Just get it near enough by eye :)
Basic instructions
1. Loosen wheel nuts
2. Jack up car and secure on axle stands
3. Remove wheels
4. Undo lower wishbone
5. Remove drive shafts from gearbox (catch oil)
6. Undo clutch cable & remove gearbox
7. Replace clutch
8. Refit in reverse
9. Top up gearbox oil
10. Reset clutch cable
 
If you don't want to waste half of your lifetime reading my bull****, skip to the bold text :)

Okay guys I have a little update for you.. The clutch assembly I got from a scrap yard (yes, i was VERY tight on money then, and had to buy that) seems to be a mystery. So here's my current situation: I got money, and decided to buy a new clutch (including the pressure bearing, not sure of the name, as english is not my mother tongue) So in the store I said I need a clutch for 1.3litre 1994 16v micra. So they say yes, they do indeed have them. I go home and compare it to the scrap yard clutch, and I'm now pretty confused because the one from the shop is BIGGER than the one from the scrap yard (for example, the holes for bolts are not in the same spots because of this). After noticing that, I checked the receipt they gave me at the scrap yard. It says that it's taken from 1996 1.3l model.

I google'd some random numbers (30100 5F600) I found on the friction plate of the scrap yard clutch, and what I find is this (for example) http://cn.oemol.com/oem/oem_detail_show.asp?id=111387&oem=301005F600&lan=en I don't know whole a lot about this stuff, but why does it look different than mine in every single pic I've found (it has 6 springs for example, mine has 4 on it)? Some sites also stated it is for 1.0 liter, not 1.3, but the receipt says it was indeed from 1.3 litre model..


Now, If we have any1 here that might be able to help me with easiest way possible: measure their plate for me if you might have one around http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMgIzgzMTg0MDAwMA--/auto-part-peugeot-clutch-plate.jpg (Just to clarify, as a total noob what comes to cars basically, I mean that part, not the friction plate) That should solve the case! Thanks! And again, sorry for all the spelling mistakes! And thanks h701 for the tips!
 
frank said:
the pre-facelift 1.0 has a 160mm clutch innit :) all the others are 180mm
Click to expand...


So mine needs to be 180, right? Lemme see..

E: Ok Im a retard, but to the business: THE one from the shop is 180, one from the scrap is 160, so they basically ****ed up at the scrap yard, as they told me it's from 1996 1.3 model?

Oh and I just realized I could've told what the aftermarket clutch make and model actually is..

http://www.mister-auto.ie/en/clutch-kit/valeo-801649_g479_a021801649.html
 
I will use this post as a progress in making my micra looking like a car again too, so here's a little update (and a first look of how it looked with the NFS tuning)

Here's my micra in it's most horrible times: http://imgur.com/a/9hTGs

Here's my micra at this point, pics taken 30mins ago: http://imgur.com/a/Nuxv2 (yeah, I didn't remove the skyline logo, it gives free whp :p)

What's ur opinion on those sideskirts? They're to only part I don't want to rip off, more opinions would be appreciated! (They do need more fitting, as shown here: http://imgur.com/a/cufP0)

What else should I do (with a low budget), I have that spray you use to make the tail lights black ish, and was wondering If I should put that to my headlights (just make them tiny bit darker, not very much)
 
@h701micra

Sorry to bother you again, but I just want to ask something.. I was reading the haynes book for the car, and was reading the steps on the clutch assembly removal, and I won't lie to you, I got a headache. There is so much in it that I have no idea what it means, tho the pics and extra info help a bit. Now I'll just ask straight, do you think there's any possibility that I can change it by myself (2 mates will help, they have no idea about car engines either) If I have all the needed tools at hand, and alot of time to use, I'm guessing it would take me atleast 10+ hrs? I'm not sure if I should even try, is it ANY way possible for a bunch of noobs to do it? I got alot of time to work on it, that's not a problem.
 
frank said:
have you checked pollyp,s blog niko ? there is probably a how-to on there :)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply, no I indeed have not, but I will fix that if I ever manage to find it, that's how bad I am at using this forum ;)

E: ok that was easy, I'll read it thru :p

Double edit: Just wondering, if any1 could share, what tools u need for the job, as precise as possible, 3 jacks would be enough I guess? But for the real tools, I'm guessing well all kind screwdrivers and a ratchet (is that even the right word for it? I seriously have issues finding out what the tool is in english so I'll solve it by using a pic.. http://www.werkzeug-news.de/uploads/pics/hazet-916-1.jpg) and different size heads for it, what sizes exactly? and what else? I can get it all, so would be nice to know what tools am I missing. AAAND almost forgot, do I need a little "ratchet" to use when takin off the gearbox bolts, just wondering because the holes (and the bolts) are pretty small I assume?

Hmm, was just watching mighty car mods, and they called it "socket wrench", is that the correct word?
 
Its definitely an easy enough job for a couple of you :)

With regards to tools. Decent ratchet and socket set, good set of spanners. 1 jack. Pair of axle stands
I do all mine with 1/2inch ratchet :) the clutch assembly sits on 3 pins on the flywheel so its fool proof to replace

Mighty car mods are Australian... its a ratchet :p

Best way to learn is to get stuck in and have a go
 
Another Finn here;

Clutch changes can be "tricky" when working on engines you aren't familiar with. That being said, the Nissan FWD motor family, GA, CG, SR are almost as easy as it gets. I removed my clutch (SR20DE) last week without any help, except the Internet.

The tools I used: NOTE: Bolts might be smaller size on CGXXDE than on SR20DE!
-2 jackstands
-Ratchet kit, 10mm->27mm
-Large 31mm socket for axle end nut. Large breaker bar to get enough leverage
-Pliers
-Standard screwdriver
-Torque wrench, if you are doing a proper job! These are expensive borrow is possible. Torque specs can be found in the full service manual

Some other tips
-The axles might be stuck, use a crowbar to pry them out if necessary.
-Make note where each bolt should go back into the gearbox, they are different lenght!
-Your flywheel might be heat scorched and in need of a resurface to get the new clutch to function perfectly. You can do it yourself, or leave it to a resurfacing company.
-If you can't get the gearbox oil filler nut open, fill it up via the speedo sensor hole.
-It's a great opportunity to change your gearbox oil at the same time. The manual CG gearbox takes ~3L, you can get the oil from Motonet for about 14€. Use GL-4 graded gearbox oil!
-Having friends with you help alot! Especially if you get stuck on something, rusty bolt etc.

Where in Finland you located? I'd love to help, but I'm in Vaasa, so I might be to far away.. Torilla tavataan! :)
 
@h701micra @Daniel_

Thank you so much, I feel much better about the job now, as it should be possible to get it done, it will take shtload of time and nerves, but I'm sure we can pull it off, I'll ask here w/ pics if get get stuck in the job!

Oh, and daniel, I'm from godtier city, Lahti :p E: Torilla tavataa suomi perkele :D
 
Tools
  • Trolley jack n stands
  • Preferably engine crane with rope and special bracket to support gearbox
  • Chisel or flathead screwdriver & hammer
  • Philips screwdriver
  • ½” ratchet or breaker bar
  • torque wrench
  • 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 32mm sockets and spanners
  • needle pliers
  • emery cloth or file to clean dowels
Parts
  • split pins
  • graphite powder or copper grease
  • gearbox oil if old oil is dirty
  • zip ties
  1. loosen front wheel nuts
  2. jack front up with trolley jack under the front wishbone rear mount and place chassis beam on axle stands
  3. remove the ½” drain plug under the gearbox and drain gear oil into a clean pan (1/2” ratchet/breaker bar) (if oil is golden and clean it can be reused, if its dirty black then replace), refit plug once empty.
  4. disconnect battery (10mm spanner)
  5. remove battery tray (12mm socket)
  6. loosen clutch cable end locknut (10mm spanner) and loosen the thumbscrew till the bracket is slack and can unhook the bracket off the clutch arm
  7. push the clutch outer cable backwards and sideways off the cable support bracket
  8. remove clutch cable support bracket (12mm socket)
  9. unplug starter motor connections (12mm & 10mm socket)
  10. remove starter motor (14mm socket & extension)
  11. remove gearbox top breather pipe
  12. unplug the neutral gear switch connector at top rear of gearbox
  13. unplug reverse switch at end of gearbox
  14. unplug grounding wire from gearbox casing at the back just above the LH driveshaft
  15. unscrew speedo outer cable off the gearbox (22mm spanner or by hand)
  16. unclip the engine loom from the rear engine mount bracket at back of gearbox (flathead screwdriver)
  17. remove front wheels
  18. remove the hub centre dust cap (with a chisel or flathead between the lip of cap and the hub)
  19. remove driveshaft nut split pin (pliers)
  20. apply brakes to lock hub (either wedge a pole between seat & brake pedal or ask a helper)
  21. remove driveshaft nut (breaker bar & 32mm socket)
  22. release brake pedal
  23. unclip brake hose from strut support tab (flathead & hammer)
  24. unbolt ABS cable from strut support tab if fitted (10mm socket)
  25. remove front caliper (12mm spanner), ziptie to the strut
  26. remove pads
  27. remove brake carrier from hub (17mm spanner) (wipe dirt off the pad clips with brake/carb cleaner till its shiny smooth)
  28. remove disc
  29. unbolt hub from strut (17mm socket)
  30. pull hub outwards and separate driveshaft off the hub (turn the steering when needed to allow hub to move out enough)
  31. separate inner driveshaft from gearbox by levering a flathead on the groove feature of the inner CV (NOT the thin metal cover shield at the ends of the CV joint) against the gearbox casing (there’s a small notch groove at bottom of casing to stick the flathead through) to overcome the spring clip at end of the shaft. Then remove driveshaft
  32. support the rear of the gearbox with trolley jack
  33. place a block of wood between the sump and the lower middle support beam
  34. disconnect gear selector rod from gearbox (12mm spanners)
  35. remove rear mount through-bolt (14mm socket) and gear selector stabiliser rod
  36. unbolt rear mount bracket from gearbox/engine (14mm socket & extension)
  37. remove LH mount through-bolt (14mm socket)
  38. remove LH mount from gearbox (14mm socket)
  39. lower the jack so the block of wood is supporting the engine against the middle beam
  40. support the weight of the gearbox:
    1. with a crane and levelling hook bracket (most relaxed & safest method for person & gearbox and easy to carefully position n slot gearbox into dowels) http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-49#post-508870
    2. trolley jack underneath (risk of slipping off and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
    3. rolling dolly underneath (tricky to align dowels during fitting)
    4. back breaking labour (big risk of dropping and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
  41. unbolt gearbox from engine (14mm socket & extension)
  42. jiggle & separate gearbox off the engine block dowels, always keeping the input shaft aligned to the crankshaft till they separate
  43. remove gearbox
  44. replace thrust bearing (clean and apply fresh lube to the sliding surface with graphite powder or light smear of grease)
  45. lock flywheel starter ring against engine block with a piece of metal
  46. undo the pressure plate bolts half-turns in a star pattern (12mm socket)
  47. check flywheel face. If deeply worn, tapered, scored or damaged then get it resurfaced (13mm socket)
  1. clean flywheel face and new PP face with brake/carb cleaner
  2. use clutch centre tool to hold the new clutch plate centre to the PP
  3. bolt the PP assembly to the fly in star pattern then remove alignment tool
  4. clean/sand the gearbox locating dowels so gearbox can slide in easy
  5. optionally fit the gearbox/engine splash plate (I left mine off cos its not essential and makes gearbox fitting a PITA)
  6. lift gearbox up into position
  7. slot the input shaft into the clutch plate always keeping it aligned to the crank
  8. rotate the gearbox till the dowels line up and jiggle it in so the dowels secure the gearboxes position
  9. bolt the gearbox to the engine
  10. fit LH mount
  11. fit rear mount bracket
  12. clip engine loom onto rear mount bracket
  13. fit gear selector rods
  14. fit drive shafts into gearbox (use a dab of grease to keep that end spring clip centred on the shaft)
  15. fit drive shaft through hub
  16. bolt hub to struts
  17. fit discs
  18. fit brake carrier to hub
  19. fit pads
  20. fit calliper
  21. clip brake hose onto strut
  22. attach ABS cable to strut
  23. apply brakes to lock hub
  24. tighten drive shaft nut to spec
  25. release brakes
  26. fit split pin
  27. fit hub dust cap
  28. fit wheels
  29. connect gearbox reverse, neutral and grounding wires
  30. fit and wire up starter motor
  31. fit gearbox breather pipe
  32. fit clutch cable support bracket
  33. fit clutch cable onto support bracket
  34. fit clutch cable end onto clutch arm
  35. screw clutch cable thumbscrew all the way up
  36. lower car onto floor
  37. tighten wheel nuts
  38. remove airbox to access the speedo hole
  39. unbolt and remove the speedo unit off the gearbox (10mm socket)
  40. stick pipe & funnel into the speedo hole and fill the gearbox with 3L oil (reuse good old clean oil or fresh oil) (can use the engine dipstick down the gearbox hole to check fill level)
  41. fit speedo into gearbox
  42. fit speedo cable to gearbox speedo
  43. fit airbox
  44. fit battery tray
  45. fit battery
  46. start engine and select a gear
  47. check and adjust the clutch cable thumbscrew till the clutch bite point is half way
  48. tighten the clutch cable thumbscrew locknut
 
Wow, dat guide. But now I'm feeling like it's impossible for me again since there's sooo many steps and I have problems with understanding some of them, mainly what they mean in finnish :/
 
Great guide pollyp!

Niko C said:
Wow, dat guide. But now I'm feeling like it's impossible for me again since there's sooo many steps and I have problems with understanding some of them, mainly what they mean in finnish :/
Click to expand...

For me, it's the other way around ;P I've spent so much time on internet forums, I can't understand finnish or swedish car terms. I just speak the english part names whenever I work on my car :p

Mun suomi on aika paha, mutta läheta viesti minulle jos löydät joku vaikea sana :)
 
Ok, so my plans have changed a bit.. My baby is going to be cured by a real car-doctor and it costs me nothing! It's set to happen 28th this month, so only just above week!
So now I have new plans, and I'm talking about fixing some rust. Also the paint on the car is HORRIBLE.
It's painted with spray cans. But as for now, I can't do nothing about that, since I don't have a warm place or a spray gun. (Not even mentioning the time it takes to prep it.. nope)

OH AND AN IMPORTNANT ONE! Today I had a WHAT THE **** -moment.

http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_DSCF5866.JPG

Two black pipe things. top right. I don't have that. Should I be worried, or super-worried? Because I checked some 1994 models and they had that too?
I'm starting to thing the same too worst mechanics on the planet that DIDN'T bother to tighten my clutch casing back and it has like 5mm gap, forgot to put it back aswell.?

Please don't tell me they forgot to put it back. I will be so pissed...
 
Just wanted to edit this to say my brand new clutch is in, and works like a charm. This car is so much fun to drive. Thanks to everybody who took time to reply, but I did leave the job for professionals after all!
 
pollyp said:
Tools
  • Trolley jack n stands
  • Preferably engine crane with rope and special bracket to support gearbox
  • Chisel or flathead screwdriver & hammer
  • Philips screwdriver
  • ½” ratchet or breaker bar
  • torque wrench
  • 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 32mm sockets and spanners
  • needle pliers
  • emery cloth or file to clean dowels
Parts
  • split pins
  • graphite powder or copper grease
  • gearbox oil if old oil is dirty
  • zip ties
  1. loosen front wheel nuts
  2. jack front up with trolley jack under the front wishbone rear mount and place chassis beam on axle stands
  3. remove the ½” drain plug under the gearbox and drain gear oil into a clean pan (1/2” ratchet/breaker bar) (if oil is golden and clean it can be reused, if its dirty black then replace), refit plug once empty.
  4. disconnect battery (10mm spanner)
  5. remove battery tray (12mm socket)
  6. loosen clutch cable end locknut (10mm spanner) and loosen the thumbscrew till the bracket is slack and can unhook the bracket off the clutch arm
  7. push the clutch outer cable backwards and sideways off the cable support bracket
  8. remove clutch cable support bracket (12mm socket)
  9. unplug starter motor connections (12mm & 10mm socket)
  10. remove starter motor (14mm socket & extension)
  11. remove gearbox top breather pipe
  12. unplug the neutral gear switch connector at top rear of gearbox
  13. unplug reverse switch at end of gearbox
  14. unplug grounding wire from gearbox casing at the back just above the LH driveshaft
  15. unscrew speedo outer cable off the gearbox (22mm spanner or by hand)
  16. unclip the engine loom from the rear engine mount bracket at back of gearbox (flathead screwdriver)
  17. remove front wheels
  18. remove the hub centre dust cap (with a chisel or flathead between the lip of cap and the hub)
  19. remove driveshaft nut split pin (pliers)
  20. apply brakes to lock hub (either wedge a pole between seat & brake pedal or ask a helper)
  21. remove driveshaft nut (breaker bar & 32mm socket)
  22. release brake pedal
  23. unclip brake hose from strut support tab (flathead & hammer)
  24. unbolt ABS cable from strut support tab if fitted (10mm socket)
  25. remove front caliper (12mm spanner), ziptie to the strut
  26. remove pads
  27. remove brake carrier from hub (17mm spanner) (wipe dirt off the pad clips with brake/carb cleaner till its shiny smooth)
  28. remove disc
  29. unbolt hub from strut (17mm socket)
  30. pull hub outwards and separate driveshaft off the hub (turn the steering when needed to allow hub to move out enough)
  31. separate inner driveshaft from gearbox by levering a flathead on the groove feature of the inner CV (NOT the thin metal cover shield at the ends of the CV joint) against the gearbox casing (there’s a small notch groove at bottom of casing to stick the flathead through) to overcome the spring clip at end of the shaft. Then remove driveshaft
  32. support the rear of the gearbox with trolley jack
  33. place a block of wood between the sump and the lower middle support beam
  34. disconnect gear selector rod from gearbox (12mm spanners)
  35. remove rear mount through-bolt (14mm socket) and gear selector stabiliser rod
  36. unbolt rear mount bracket from gearbox/engine (14mm socket & extension)
  37. remove LH mount through-bolt (14mm socket)
  38. remove LH mount from gearbox (14mm socket)
  39. lower the jack so the block of wood is supporting the engine against the middle beam
  40. support the weight of the gearbox:
    1. with a crane and levelling hook bracket (most relaxed & safest method for person & gearbox and easy to carefully position n slot gearbox into dowels) http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-49#post-508870
    2. trolley jack underneath (risk of slipping off and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
    3. rolling dolly underneath (tricky to align dowels during fitting)
    4. back breaking labour (big risk of dropping and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
  41. unbolt gearbox from engine (14mm socket & extension)
  42. jiggle & separate gearbox off the engine block dowels, always keeping the input shaft aligned to the crankshaft till they separate
  43. remove gearbox
  44. replace thrust bearing (clean and apply fresh lube to the sliding surface with graphite powder or light smear of grease)
  45. lock flywheel starter ring against engine block with a piece of metal
  46. undo the pressure plate bolts half-turns in a star pattern (12mm socket)
  47. check flywheel face. If deeply worn, tapered, scored or damaged then get it resurfaced (13mm socket)
  1. clean flywheel face and new PP face with brake/carb cleaner
  2. use clutch centre tool to hold the new clutch plate centre to the PP
  3. bolt the PP assembly to the fly in star pattern then remove alignment tool
  4. clean/sand the gearbox locating dowels so gearbox can slide in easy
  5. optionally fit the gearbox/engine splash plate (I left mine off cos its not essential and makes gearbox fitting a PITA)
  6. lift gearbox up into position
  7. slot the input shaft into the clutch plate always keeping it aligned to the crank
  8. rotate the gearbox till the dowels line up and jiggle it in so the dowels secure the gearboxes position
  9. bolt the gearbox to the engine
  10. fit LH mount
  11. fit rear mount bracket
  12. clip engine loom onto rear mount bracket
  13. fit gear selector rods
  14. fit drive shafts into gearbox (use a dab of grease to keep that end spring clip centred on the shaft)
  15. fit drive shaft through hub
  16. bolt hub to struts
  17. fit discs
  18. fit brake carrier to hub
  19. fit pads
  20. fit calliper
  21. clip brake hose onto strut
  22. attach ABS cable to strut
  23. apply brakes to lock hub
  24. tighten drive shaft nut to spec
  25. release brakes
  26. fit split pin
  27. fit hub dust cap
  28. fit wheels
  29. connect gearbox reverse, neutral and grounding wires
  30. fit and wire up starter motor
  31. fit gearbox breather pipe
  32. fit clutch cable support bracket
  33. fit clutch cable onto support bracket
  34. fit clutch cable end onto clutch arm
  35. screw clutch cable thumbscrew all the way up
  36. lower car onto floor
  37. tighten wheel nuts
  38. remove airbox to access the speedo hole
  39. unbolt and remove the speedo unit off the gearbox (10mm socket)
  40. stick pipe & funnel into the speedo hole and fill the gearbox with 3L oil (reuse good old clean oil or fresh oil) (can use the engine dipstick down the gearbox hole to check fill level)
  41. fit speedo into gearbox
  42. fit speedo cable to gearbox speedo
  43. fit airbox
  44. fit battery tray
  45. fit battery
  46. start engine and select a gear
  47. check and adjust the clutch cable thumbscrew till the clutch bite point is half way
  48. tighten the clutch cable thumbscrew locknut
Click to expand...
sorry to bother your mate, I need to change the three engine mounts, where should I start off jacking from? I have blocks of wood at hand and the trolley jack, but am unsure wheter to jack from beneath the gearbox, or jack from the sump or jack from the middle bar that the lower mounts hooks onto.. need to be sure before starting to undo engine mount.. dont want any foul mistakes.


thanks mate,

Ian - Malta
 
you need to support the back of the diff ian, because that rear mount stops the engine twisting when you power on or off.
so take-up the weight of the diff, then jack it slightly till the long bolt becomes free
 
funky2nite said:
sorry to bother your mate, I need to change the three engine mounts, where should I start off jacking from? I have blocks of wood at hand and the trolley jack, but am unsure wheter to jack from beneath the gearbox, or jack from the sump or jack from the middle bar that the lower mounts hooks onto.. need to be sure before starting to undo engine mount.. dont want any foul mistakes.


thanks mate,

Ian - Malta
Click to expand...

jack the car up by placing trolley jack head under the lower wishbone rear bush mount and then rest the chassis rail just behind it onto axle stands.
now to replace each engine mount you remove the nut and just need to lift the jack bit by bit just enough to support and relieve the shearing load off the bolts till they're slack so they're easier to remove.

to relieve the RH mount - under the sump
relieve the LH mount - under the gearbox
relieve the rear mount - a straight edge under the rear of the gearbox

DSC04409 copy.jpg
 
pollyp said:
jack the car up by placing trolley jack head under the lower wishbone rear bush mount and then rest the chassis rail just behind it onto axle stands.
now to replace each engine mount you remove the nut and just need to lift the jack bit by bit just enough to support and relieve the shearing load off the bolts till they're slack so they're easier to remove.

to relieve the RH mount - under the sump
relieve the LH mount - under the gearbox
relieve the rear mount - a straight edge under the rear of the gearbox

View attachment 37271
Click to expand...
Thanks man, come to Malta and let me show you around! Will do them today one by one. Already have it on a stands from the rails, so you simply jack where you want to relieve to get that mount out.
 
frank said:
you need to support the back of the diff ian, because that rear mount stops the engine twisting when you power on or off.
so take-up the weight of the diff, then jack it slightly till the long bolt becomes free
Click to expand...
So rear mount jack at the back of diff to chuck the bolt out
 
just pretty tight mate, the 3 bolts that hold the steel bracket to the g/box are the ones that people have problems working loose
 
Is it safe should I undo the whole cross member to work on it not under the car? The jack is currently at the rear of the gearbox/ differential. I also am replacing the other mount at the front of the cross member. Or should I only do one at once by jacking only one place at a time? Sorry frank bothering you at this time
 
frank said:
you,re ok to remove the 2 rear bolts ian, then let it drop down a few inches
Click to expand...
But not the whole crossmember when having jacked only from the differential? Cos I ve lowered the cross member by undoing 2 rear bolts but still the bolts on the mount are not budging..tbh im getting the feeling that the same has happened to them like the wishbone bolts cos they feel kind of elasticy, its either that or the goo and dirt on the bolt is giving that feel
 
yeh, take it off if you want mate, i would just pull it down personally (those 2 bolts are always rusted in, once you get them moving they come out ok)
 
funky2nite said:
But not the whole crossmember when having jacked only from the differential? Cos I ve lowered the cross member by undoing 2 rear bolts but still the bolts on the mount are not budging..tbh im getting the feeling that the same has happened to them like the wishbone bolts cos they feel kind of elasticy, its either that or the goo and dirt on the bolt is giving that feel
Click to expand...
progress report ian ? :)
 
The feckin micra won mate..couldn't undo the two feckin bolts of the rear mount even with the lowered cross member and was noticing a tiny squeak with the cross member undone frok one side upon applying pressure on the nut and presumed that I might slightly kink the cross member and the holes wont even match up again. Then remebered on the air ratchet I still had in the box and to my dismay, the **** compressor being a small size hadnt enough juice to undo the darn bolts and thats what killed my motivation. Will start from the other two mounts though next wknd maybe those would be more undoable than the rear one. Will post pics once I get home.
 

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