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The 1.3 Turbo Battle####

I has achieved 8-9 cm drops...
6e5e3ama.jpg
 
could u not cut them 45deg angled ends off the main beam and reweld em on vertically to get the axle at highest point hence trailer sits at lowest position?

or is that some sorta torsion bar trailing arm suspension in it?
 
pollyp said:
could u not cut them 45deg angled ends off the main beam and reweld em on vertically to get the axle at highest point hence trailer sits at lowest position?

or is that some sorta torsion bar trailing arm suspension in it?
Click to expand...
Torsion beam
 
pollyp said:
could u not cut them 45deg angled ends off the main beam and reweld em on vertically to get the axle at highest point hence trailer sits at lowest position?

or is that some sorta torsion bar trailing arm suspension in it?
Click to expand...
Torsion... But that does mean we get progressive lows with the more stuff we lob in there lol... Which means I have to tow lots of things all the time.
 
perhaps lengthen or make that swinging angled arm bit adjustable so as it's pointing 45deg up, lengthen it to lower the ride height, although that'd prob change the leverage so it sags more.
 
pollyp said:
perhaps lengthen or make that swinging angled arm bit adjustable so as it's pointing 45deg up, lengthen it to lower the ride height, although that'd prob change the leverage so it sags more.
Click to expand...
Its 45 up as we speak. Which means the suspension still works which is quite nice I suppose. Yeah I will leave it as is... Should be fine I rekon.
 
Have you considered the bolts and the flex they'll give, pack the gap out or something? Looks to me like the axle has the opportunity to shift. Want you to be safe man
 
h701micra said:
Have you considered the bolts and the flex they'll give, pack the gap out or something? Looks to me like the axle has the opportunity to shift. Want you to be safe man
Click to expand...
It's all good, it's no worse really than the original setup. Actually, theres mote thread engagement than before with 3 nuts, and chris has gone from M10 originally up to M12 fasteners now :)
 
h701micra said:
Have you considered the bolts and the flex they'll give, pack the gap out or something? Looks to me like the axle has the opportunity to shift. Want you to be safe man
Click to expand...
I was really worried about it and was going to get @Enuo to make some spacers. But in reality I updated from a 10mm to a 12mm higher tensile strength bolts. I don't thing the originals were all that hardcore but I am using 8.8 now. And used the extra nuts to stop the movement as best as possible. When I have a welder I will make an extra bracket and basically reproduce the original design but on the new axle side used. I won't be hauling much heavy with this setup but we shall see. I may hookup a go pro and see what movement there is.
 
You are more than right @h701micra it needs to be thought about. This is the best setup I can produce ATM and I feel it's the strongest it can be to stop levering effect and axle movement. I even went to the effort of tightening the bolts in the order to compress the axle to frame them out the inner nuts. All locktite red involved and nylock nuts. Bam.
 
That's all cool man. Just thought I'd ask anyway :)
Its not the bolt size that phase me its the void but you can add spacers like you say
Even blocks of wood would do :)
 
h701micra said:
That's all cool man. Just thought I'd ask anyway :)
Its not the bolt size that phase me its the void but you can add spacers like you say
Even blocks of wood would do :)
Click to expand...
Well don't... You disgust me. The reality is that all I need to do is this setup but weld a bar like the original setup, so two bars, on up top and one below, on both wheel sides. This will have the strength of the original plus more strength. In reality it was a bit pants before because the angle of the trailer meant that there was no correct loading on the axle so now it's level we are all good.
 
SirChris said:
Well don't... You disgust me. The reality is that all I need to do is this setup but weld a bar like the original setup, so two bars, on up top and one below, on both wheel sides. This will have the strength of the original plus more strength. In reality it was a bit pants before because the angle of the trailer meant that there was no correct loading on the axle so now it's level we are all good.
Click to expand...
How about NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At least you have plans to sort it all out, even though you need to sort yourself out first with that badmanz attitude :D
 
SirChris said:
Lol already thinking about it jen :) only issue is that it's galvanised so painting will be hard n remove it's protection.
Click to expand...
In that case, skip the paint, go with battleship wrap instead ;)
You can get rolls of fablon/sticky back plastic type stuff from ebay or amazon or the range ^_^
...or plasti-dip?

Edit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matte-Gun...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20d9d01b5c

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LIGHT-GREY-...8&qid=1407508253&sr=8-13&keywords=grey+fablon
 
Last edited:
Bosh. Blown gearbox. Repairing. Lightening flywheel. Yes the blogs back. New car soon. Once again.. @Clodo guesses layshaft was the issue. Which she needs to expand on. Anyone else care to suggest a educated guess on the fault which occurred. Would like to hear peoples explanation on what may have happened. Nice to see how people think. Basically box sprung a leek. Drained just to below driveshaft seal. Replaced seal and then filled back up. Gearbox whine was a normal thing in the end. Did a rather aggressive pull away after it all.. Bang. Some of you may have seen the video... Quite funny. Some guy claimed the car was running 200 odd bhp.... Er no.

I had money on input shaft.
 
Exactly my thoughts frank. Also with slack in the bearings tolerance for heavy handed clutch attack mode, I would have thought that it would tear/crack the casing around the engine side input shaft bearing.
 
SirChris said:
@Clodo guesses layshaft was the issue. Which she needs to expand on.
Click to expand...


You driving.... Enough said :p

Damaged bearings, making gear selection hard as you've done that have you mangled the gears on the main shaft? and damaged the dog clutches? Which could explain the metal shavings? As they've grinded together? Possibly straining the output shaft maybe? And maybe input shaft to? Xxx
 

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