Talk to Frank..... 1 mirrion questions :D

I have some questions about your setup, I want to go down the same route with scrap yard tuning and low cost messisngs abouts.

But before I start here is a bonus hotty to help you with any answers :D

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1. What is involved with fitting the qg throttle body to the cga inlet manifold?

2. what did you do regarding the idle control valve?

3. Did you keep the cg13 tps and fit it to the qg throttle body?

4. How did you fit the cut off cg afm to the qg throttle body or airbox?

5. I noticed in some of your other posts that you played around with fuel reg spring and also a "doctered dizzy" do I need to worry about these? I have an adjustable regulator here!

6. I noticed that you cut and modified an inlet, do I need to consider this sort of thing?

7. Did you need to swap any wiring or plugs over for any sensors, injectors ect? Should I get extra plugs from scrappy?

I hope you don't mind all these questions lol

I will grab a few different injectors and both a cg10 and cg13 ecu from the scrap yard so that I can fiddle around on the rolling road to get a nice setup.

Thanks
Kev
 
Also in the other thread you say you have a spare setup!

Is that a complete spare setup? Inlet with t/b attached and injectors with rail and modded afm in airbox?

If so I would defo be interested in it all :)
 
probably the simplest way kev is to mount a CG t/b onto a CG or CGA mani, you can either cut the i/c/v off and mount it remotely or else leave all the coldstart/idle control on and cut the top 20mm off a mani and weld it onto of another mani but turned 180 deg (like the pic, my spare setup which i want to try out on my misses,s 1.0)

 

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and yes, the GQ and GA t/b,s are 50mm, and their t/p/s,s seem to work fine (same plug)
and the CG injector plugs can be modded to fit the QG injectors (tho i piggybacked a QG injector loom into mine)
 
probably the simplest way kev is to mount a CG t/b onto a CG or CGA mani, you can either cut the i/c/v off and mount it remotely or else leave all the coldstart/idle control on and cut the top 20mm off a mani and weld it onto of another mani but turned 180 deg (like the pic, my spare setup which i want to try out on my misses,s 1.0)

Thanks for the replies Frank, the pics and text are a massive help tbh. I should have enough info and inspiration to build something half decent, following your lead :)


So I think what ill do is go and find a throttle body today/tomorrow and ill try and get the matching inlet manifold. If not ill just study it and take pics.

Ill most probably attempt to make an adaptor plate to mount the a new throttle body onto a cg/cga inlet.

I made an adaptor plate to mount the throttle body on my driftcar so should be to much trouble,

Can you see any reasons why I shouldn't make an adaptor plate?
 
Thanks for the replies Frank, the pics and text are a massive help tbh. I should have enough info and inspiration to build something half decent, following your lead :)


So I think what ill do is go and find a throttle body today/tomorrow and ill try and get the matching inlet manifold. If not ill just study it and take pics.

Ill most probably attempt to make an adaptor plate to mount the a new throttle body onto a cg/cga inlet.

I made an adaptor plate to mount the throttle body on my driftcar so should be to much trouble,

Can you see any reasons why I shouldn't make an adaptor plate?

Would a plenum make any difference? Just was wondering as I've never seen one made up for a cg before, would look like a mini sr
 
and yes, the GQ and GA t/b,s are 50mm, and their t/p/s,s seem to work fine (same plug)
and the CG injector plugs can be modded to fit the QG injectors (tho i piggybacked a QG injector loom into mine)

Ace that's good ill make sure I grab the qg injectors at the same time. I would rather splice the qg injector loom into the cg loom I think. Ill get one of my mates who are keen with the solder to do the work for me :D


I think I will keep this thread alive and document what I do and how it all goes. Right now I need to go scrap yard :D
 
I keep reading posts about disconnecting the lambda sensor.

Is this a good idea? Should I just test on the rollers and see what works best?

Iam guessing if I leave the lambda disconnected I will be able to alter afr with an adj fpr!

Cheers
 
I keep reading posts about disconnecting the lambda sensor.

Is this a good idea? Should I just test on the rollers and see what works best?

Iam guessing if I leave the lambda disconnected I will be able to alter afr with an adj fpr!

Cheers

What's the lambda plugged into???
Unplugging will make it run rich, adjustable FPR in my experience only increase the pressure not reduce, but some may
 
Couple more questions that iam trying to answer.

1. which is the best option for me regarding which airbox to source and use?

2. in the thread "what did you do to your micra today" you posted that you fueling was all over the place with the sr20 throttle body! how did you over come this?
 
Couple more questions that iam trying to answer.

1. which is the best option for me regarding which airbox to source and use?

2. in the thread "what did you do to your micra today" you posted that you fueling was all over the place with the sr20 throttle body! how did you over come this?

the current setup only had a small anomaly at very light throttle kev http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=65695 and mine loses grunt without the GA airbox fitted
 
Thanks for the link frank, very helpful :)

Have you got anymore pics of how/where you cut the mad off of the cg tb?

I got an idea but dont want to make a mess :)
Thanks
Kev
 
Thanks for the link frank, very helpful :)

Have you got anymore pics of how/where you cut the mad off of the cg tb?

I got an idea but dont want to make a mess :)
Thanks
Kev

no mate, just cut at an angle eh, then bonded in with some poundland 2pack araldite stuff :grinning:
 
Matt was working on one that looked to be based on the QG15DE inlet manifold modified to take a standard TB, he was also asking people for feedback on the larger GA16DE TBs too......not sure what came of that in the end. He was also looking at having one made up by a university project team but it was always delayed and I never heard anything about it. Kinda gave up too once I got my hands on a set of Jenveys...
 
Remote idle controller.

does the length of the pipes, joining the icv to the tb, have much effect?

does the oritation of the valve mmater? could it be upside down without adverse efffects?

does it matter where it is plumbed in? as standard the valve draws air from just above the butterfly and releses the ar into the flange area where tb meets inlet. could i for example, take air from the airbox or atmos and flow the air into the inlet through one of the existing take offs?

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thanks
kev
 
actually, thinking about it bluey ran on gas kev :eek: and the i/c/v may not work the same on petrol.
i just plumbed it into a spare vacuum pipe and it worked fine because the maf was,nt controlling the fueling eh.
my current setup works surprisingly well without any anti stall system (i just use the ghetto cruise control lever to fast idle it when cold :grinning:)
 
Ok mate. I may try it out anyway, but I reckon i will need to plumb into a metered air source, ie. between afm and butterfly.

have you seen my Sr tb with cg afm creationk?
 
Ok mate. I may try it out anyway, but I reckon i will need to plumb into a metered air source, ie. between afm and butterfly.

have you seen my Sr tb with cg afm creationk?
yeh, basicly it just bleeds air past the butterfly to increase the rpm eh (like the idle screw, but controlled by the ecu)
and your whole setup is looking the dogs mate (Y)
 
Yup I get that bit but I would have thought that the air must have to come from between afm and butterfly and then back in after the butterfly.

I reckon otherwise it would make things worse like a manual boost controller lol

Hopefully the inlet setup will work ok and hopefully the afm isn't damaged and hopefully the araldite will hold up :D
 
Is there a length difference between the 1.0 and 1.3 con rods also if the 1.0 pistons heighten the 1.3 compression do the 1.3 pistons lower the 1.0's compression?

sorry of this is a blond question just wanted to double check

Oh and does anyone know the dimensions of the cg + gearbox?
 
yes to both questions karl :grinning: and i could measure an engine end to end and a pre 98 g/box end to end if you want ?
 
So would using 1.0 con rods and pistons be an easier way to heighten the compression of the 1.3, my thinking is to buy 2 complete engines and swap internals except crank

And if you could frank I'd be extremely grateful
 
the engine is 450mm karl, and the g/box 300+
and the 1.0 rods are about 15mm longer, so you can only swap pistons :)
 
the engine is 450mm karl, and the g/box 300+
and the 1.0 rods are about 15mm longer, so you can only swap pistons :)

Cool so total approx 800mm.... :doh: didn't even understand my own question :doh: lol

What's the easiest way of getting the piston off? A friend did tell me but I've completely forgotten, other than he said something about freezing it and heating it up again
 
i doubt if heating or cooling will help karl, you can heat the rod to refit the pin but you have about 1/2 a sec before the heat transfers to the pin and it locks solid :eek:
i use a press/tool thingy on mine
 
Crank and rods have to match or you would need to deck the block

So 1.0 crank, 1.3 rods, 1.0 pistons?

i doubt if heating or cooling will help karl, you can heat the rod to refit the pin but you have about 1/2 a sec before the heat transfers to the pin and it locks solid :eek:
i use a press/tool thingy on mine

Ahh ok so it'll be more trial and error until I get the hang of it, when I get round to attempting it could I borrow your press?
 
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