Hey all,
I'm a few months away from actually starting this project but my mind has been on it a lot lately, a lot of plans and ideas and thought I might as well get some ideas from you lot before I go ahead.
A little bit about me:
My name is Patrick, I am a 25 year old working in the film industry in New Zealand, I work in art department which means my job as a contractor involves prop making, set decorating, set construction, set painting, art directing, costuming... all sorts. My personal background involves a lot of hand on work - and I used to be a mechanic and worked in small workshops and also Toyota service center. I've owned many Japanese cars - my favourite car I've ever owned is a 1985 Toyota AE86 Levin - which a turbo charged drift car with adjustable everything. I know my way around cars quite well. We have a huge car culture in NZ which ranges from everything from JDM to American Muscle to Hot Rods and racing from all sectors of the culture... I used to be heavily involved in the JDM car culture but got sick of the fact that cars are a very expensive hobby. For the past few years, I've drove a 2000 Celica, a lifted Toyota Surf (4Runner) on 32" mud tyres... and now have a very sensible 2012 Hilux along with my trusty pocket rocket Micra. I'm not interested in power and speed etc.
Pictures of the car I miss the most:
Goal:
Rat Rod inspired, covered in rust, slammed with modern 'stance'. MAD MAX inspiration - lots of little details that tell story - practicality, up-cycling, lots of welding. I love details in something where you see it and go, 'ooh that's what that's for!' In film, details tell stories, they contribute to the main story in some way or tell something about the relative character. If you haven't seen MAD MAX fury road, hopefully you'll get what I mean... I've already got a backyard job roof rack made from steel rebar and others, which is rusting out real nicely. This project will not be about achieving power etc. 95% of these mods will be aesthetic. The main challenge here is to achieve the look without doing anything unsafe or illegal, which can be a big challenge sometimes.
BODY:
Before I begin, our laws in NZ mean my car has to go through a warrant of fitness check every six months, this is called a 'non intrusive' inspection, meaning nothing is to be removed for the inspection. Our rules regarding rust means no rust is to be found in structural parts of the car, pillars, chassis, door hinges...
The bonnet, quarter panels and rear door will be rusted by removed the paint using a heavy duty paint stripper. Once I'm happy with the rust, it will be coating with a standard poly-urethane.
Paint stripper: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/poly-4l-paint-stripper_p01718022
The front and rear bumper will be painted matt black, and the rear quarter and roof will be painted with DULUX RUST EFFECT paint (really cool stuff) which is a two step paint system which creates REAL rust - meaning the rust will sit on top of the factory car paint without seeping into the car body.
Dulux Rust Effect: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/dulux-design-500ml-rust-effect-paint-step-1_p08906925
Video of product:
Here is some research I found on our national HONDA forum site:
https://nzhondas.com/topic/167437-civic-ratrod-style-project-moar-rust/?page=8
here is the result of using the Dulux Rust Effect paint on the rear quarter - looks nice, but very flat - no drippage or inconsistencies which is the only thing I am not a fan of, but I'm thinking there should be a way of making some drippage using potentially some dust which comes from skimming brakes (Back when I used to work as a mechanic, we'd skim brakes and the dust would end up on the floor. within minutes, if there was water on the floor as well, the dust would turn into rust, as you can imagine is the same as when you wash your car and get water on your brake discs and start to develop rust just minutes after)
WHEELS:
So as we all know, there aren't as many options in 4x100 as others, especially in 13 and 14", and on top of that, NZ being a small island at the bottom of the pacific ocean, we don't have as much available as the rest of the world. So I am going with banded steelies.
The plan is to get the car on stands, take the SPRINGS out of the car, put a shock back in, put a wheel back on the hub, stick a jack under it and lift it up until I am happy with where the wheel sits, then I will measure how much of a drop that will be, and at the same time measure how much band I'll add to the steel wheel.
I'm looking for a way to make some BABY MOON HUBCAPS, if you don't know what those are, they are the chrome domes that are normally found on VW Combie vans. Thinking stainless steel mixing bowls from the local shops and fixed on to the wheel with some sort of clips...
SUSPENSION:
So with our laws, installing adjustable suspension is an expensive practice - to buy a set of adjustable coilovers will cost around $1500NZD (800 pounds)... then you have to have the CERTIFIED which is another $500 (264 pounds), a process in which a certifier inspects the installation, and if agreed that it is safe, makes a special plate that states the certified modifications which that plate is riveted to firewall inside the engine bay. Definitely not keen on this route, especially considering the coilovers might not even get my goal height.
Here is my plan, which I've barely seen anyone on the internet do. It's quite naughty but it's far safer than simply cutting springs:
Our national spring manufacturer (Chaimberlains ChCh) provides a service of re-setting springs for $140NZD(73 pounds)/pair - this means they take the spring and heat it, and set it to the right height and then cool it at the right length of time, giving the spring the same spring rate at a new overall length. We all know how 'boaty' a k11 is due to soft springs, and I actually wish the springs would go harder in this process, but I'm considering harder springs later in the future.
rear suspension:
I understand that when the car drops, the rear will move to the side as the cross bar will push it that way. My old drift car had an adjustable one so this wasn't a problem. I am thinking of shortening it by cutting and welding it. If you've done this before let me know!
Now with our laws, the spring must be 'captive', meaning the spring must sit in the coil seat without moving around when shock is fully extended. We all know how silly cutting springs are without having them sit nicely in their spring seats is anyway, and I've done it before. Here's the clever part...
SHOCKS will be cut at the top near the thread, to just enough that the spring sits captive and the shock has maximum travel distance. Before you go commenting on the dangers, a friend of mine has trialled and tested this with much success. He has only advised to leave at a minimum of 50mm travel. The bump stops will cover the welds so this won't be seen without having to dismantle the strut assembly. Here are photos:
1. Mark off the cut
2.cut it
3. taper the cut to prvide maximum weld contact
4.weld the bastard.
5. Voila! Nice toes Chris!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
WHEELS & TYRES
I was contemplating on 13 or 14 inch banded steelies, but based on the photos I've seen, I think I'm more a fan of 13". The goal is to be 100mm off the ground at the sills, and the idea is that 13s with maybe 155/55's will do the trick whilst keeping a decent amount of clearance at the front arches. (If you have photos of wide wheels with extreme low please comment!) We're not allowed to have stretch in NZ but I'm willing to risk having a little bit of stretch. Planning to paint the steelies some playful colour like baby blue or purple... or potentially a glossy brown with some sparkle... still not sure how wide the steel wheels will go, but I'm keen on stagger... slightly wider rear - the factory wheels seem to stick further in at the back.
I'd love to here from you. Have you seen a rat rod before? what did you love about it? have you been through any of these processes mentioned? Do you have widened steel wheels? Do you have any car mod ideas that you think might suit this? Do you have mad wide wheels and stance? Do you think pineapple belongs on pizzas? have you done flares over your guards?
I'm a few months away from actually starting this project but my mind has been on it a lot lately, a lot of plans and ideas and thought I might as well get some ideas from you lot before I go ahead.
A little bit about me:
My name is Patrick, I am a 25 year old working in the film industry in New Zealand, I work in art department which means my job as a contractor involves prop making, set decorating, set construction, set painting, art directing, costuming... all sorts. My personal background involves a lot of hand on work - and I used to be a mechanic and worked in small workshops and also Toyota service center. I've owned many Japanese cars - my favourite car I've ever owned is a 1985 Toyota AE86 Levin - which a turbo charged drift car with adjustable everything. I know my way around cars quite well. We have a huge car culture in NZ which ranges from everything from JDM to American Muscle to Hot Rods and racing from all sectors of the culture... I used to be heavily involved in the JDM car culture but got sick of the fact that cars are a very expensive hobby. For the past few years, I've drove a 2000 Celica, a lifted Toyota Surf (4Runner) on 32" mud tyres... and now have a very sensible 2012 Hilux along with my trusty pocket rocket Micra. I'm not interested in power and speed etc.
Pictures of the car I miss the most:
Goal:
Rat Rod inspired, covered in rust, slammed with modern 'stance'. MAD MAX inspiration - lots of little details that tell story - practicality, up-cycling, lots of welding. I love details in something where you see it and go, 'ooh that's what that's for!' In film, details tell stories, they contribute to the main story in some way or tell something about the relative character. If you haven't seen MAD MAX fury road, hopefully you'll get what I mean... I've already got a backyard job roof rack made from steel rebar and others, which is rusting out real nicely. This project will not be about achieving power etc. 95% of these mods will be aesthetic. The main challenge here is to achieve the look without doing anything unsafe or illegal, which can be a big challenge sometimes.
BODY:
Before I begin, our laws in NZ mean my car has to go through a warrant of fitness check every six months, this is called a 'non intrusive' inspection, meaning nothing is to be removed for the inspection. Our rules regarding rust means no rust is to be found in structural parts of the car, pillars, chassis, door hinges...
The bonnet, quarter panels and rear door will be rusted by removed the paint using a heavy duty paint stripper. Once I'm happy with the rust, it will be coating with a standard poly-urethane.
Paint stripper: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/poly-4l-paint-stripper_p01718022
The front and rear bumper will be painted matt black, and the rear quarter and roof will be painted with DULUX RUST EFFECT paint (really cool stuff) which is a two step paint system which creates REAL rust - meaning the rust will sit on top of the factory car paint without seeping into the car body.
Dulux Rust Effect: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/dulux-design-500ml-rust-effect-paint-step-1_p08906925
Video of product:
Here is some research I found on our national HONDA forum site:
https://nzhondas.com/topic/167437-civic-ratrod-style-project-moar-rust/?page=8
here is the result of using the Dulux Rust Effect paint on the rear quarter - looks nice, but very flat - no drippage or inconsistencies which is the only thing I am not a fan of, but I'm thinking there should be a way of making some drippage using potentially some dust which comes from skimming brakes (Back when I used to work as a mechanic, we'd skim brakes and the dust would end up on the floor. within minutes, if there was water on the floor as well, the dust would turn into rust, as you can imagine is the same as when you wash your car and get water on your brake discs and start to develop rust just minutes after)
WHEELS:
So as we all know, there aren't as many options in 4x100 as others, especially in 13 and 14", and on top of that, NZ being a small island at the bottom of the pacific ocean, we don't have as much available as the rest of the world. So I am going with banded steelies.
The plan is to get the car on stands, take the SPRINGS out of the car, put a shock back in, put a wheel back on the hub, stick a jack under it and lift it up until I am happy with where the wheel sits, then I will measure how much of a drop that will be, and at the same time measure how much band I'll add to the steel wheel.
I'm looking for a way to make some BABY MOON HUBCAPS, if you don't know what those are, they are the chrome domes that are normally found on VW Combie vans. Thinking stainless steel mixing bowls from the local shops and fixed on to the wheel with some sort of clips...
SUSPENSION:
So with our laws, installing adjustable suspension is an expensive practice - to buy a set of adjustable coilovers will cost around $1500NZD (800 pounds)... then you have to have the CERTIFIED which is another $500 (264 pounds), a process in which a certifier inspects the installation, and if agreed that it is safe, makes a special plate that states the certified modifications which that plate is riveted to firewall inside the engine bay. Definitely not keen on this route, especially considering the coilovers might not even get my goal height.
Here is my plan, which I've barely seen anyone on the internet do. It's quite naughty but it's far safer than simply cutting springs:
Our national spring manufacturer (Chaimberlains ChCh) provides a service of re-setting springs for $140NZD(73 pounds)/pair - this means they take the spring and heat it, and set it to the right height and then cool it at the right length of time, giving the spring the same spring rate at a new overall length. We all know how 'boaty' a k11 is due to soft springs, and I actually wish the springs would go harder in this process, but I'm considering harder springs later in the future.
rear suspension:
I understand that when the car drops, the rear will move to the side as the cross bar will push it that way. My old drift car had an adjustable one so this wasn't a problem. I am thinking of shortening it by cutting and welding it. If you've done this before let me know!
Now with our laws, the spring must be 'captive', meaning the spring must sit in the coil seat without moving around when shock is fully extended. We all know how silly cutting springs are without having them sit nicely in their spring seats is anyway, and I've done it before. Here's the clever part...
SHOCKS will be cut at the top near the thread, to just enough that the spring sits captive and the shock has maximum travel distance. Before you go commenting on the dangers, a friend of mine has trialled and tested this with much success. He has only advised to leave at a minimum of 50mm travel. The bump stops will cover the welds so this won't be seen without having to dismantle the strut assembly. Here are photos:
1. Mark off the cut
2.cut it
3. taper the cut to prvide maximum weld contact
4.weld the bastard.
5. Voila! Nice toes Chris!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
WHEELS & TYRES
I was contemplating on 13 or 14 inch banded steelies, but based on the photos I've seen, I think I'm more a fan of 13". The goal is to be 100mm off the ground at the sills, and the idea is that 13s with maybe 155/55's will do the trick whilst keeping a decent amount of clearance at the front arches. (If you have photos of wide wheels with extreme low please comment!) We're not allowed to have stretch in NZ but I'm willing to risk having a little bit of stretch. Planning to paint the steelies some playful colour like baby blue or purple... or potentially a glossy brown with some sparkle... still not sure how wide the steel wheels will go, but I'm keen on stagger... slightly wider rear - the factory wheels seem to stick further in at the back.
I'd love to here from you. Have you seen a rat rod before? what did you love about it? have you been through any of these processes mentioned? Do you have widened steel wheels? Do you have any car mod ideas that you think might suit this? Do you have mad wide wheels and stance? Do you think pineapple belongs on pizzas? have you done flares over your guards?
