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PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
andy did ya still want that spare block I have in my garage?

yeah if you get a quote and milage and maybe a piccy if you see it.
always abit of a lottery when hoping to get a low milage good condition engine from scrappys cos can't check it over with my scope beforehand.
 
Its very true but I'll look it over myself and get you some feedback as soon as I'm up there next

With regards to your spare block, I've got one now thank you I just need to get on and compare :)
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
the pistons have nothing to do with oil control tho, forged or stock, have your honing marks bedded in yet paul ?
and i bet you will still be within 200 ppm HC emissions paul :)
might it be worth a go putting these in a un honed 1.3 engine?
we all hurting to see this work for you after the effort.
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
Keep the engine, make use of the forging, buy a metal headgasket for it and see how much powah you can make for track. Maybe it's time to change the nature of the project?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'm assuming that once mot expires, I can keep the car sorned in garage and work on it for next few months till its ready for its test?

well another last ditch alternative option would be to buy and fit a stock engine with stock exhaust to just pass the MOT first.
with the MOT sorted I then have some breathing time to strip the forged engine ONCE AGAIN:rolleyes: and drill more oil ring drain back holes to let any build up of oil escape, reassemble forged engine, fit forged engine and see if it improves.
if it improves, take it on track.
if it doesn't improve, take it on track anyway to see if extreme heat solves it.

if the oil issue can't be resolved at all, then its goodbye forged engine for good and hello back stock engine
 
I know I keep saying it but the track is the only place to find out. They're designed for race temps not daily so I'm 99.99% sure they'll show up good there :)... I still think it'll pass mot.
If your car is on private property you can do as you wish regardless of mot etc :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I know I keep saying it but the track is the only place to find out. They're designed for race temps not daily so I'm 99.99% sure they'll show up good there :)... I still think it'll pass mot.
If your car is on private property you can do as you wish regardless of mot etc :)
track test can wait after MOT and yes they're most likely if not Only meant for track use so we'll find out someday.

you think it can pass emissions even with such oily piston?

I mean, yeah it's not a serious amount (compared to a cracked ring land)
cos the plugs are still dry but white,
it still combusts and idles perfectly smooth,
mixtures perfect
and doesn't smoke (she emits abit of stuff out the exhaust in the morning cold start during warm up after cranking but can't tell if thats h20 from the stone cold pipes or oil smoke cos its faint white n trails bout 0.5-1.0m and then vanishes)
but will sure make it tricky to pass.

ok new plan of action.
fit stock exhaust, send her through MOT and wait for the verdict.
if she passes emission then its a miracle and a relief.
if she fails emission by a long way off, then we have to find and fit a stock engine over the coming weeks, redo the MOT hoping it passes then spend slow time drilling the forged piston oil holes n rebuilding to be fitted n test again later on. if it still leaks afterwards then its a definite ending
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so rather than swapping the whole exhaust system over which requires the rear axle to be dropped, lets resolve the position of the cat so I can use the stock downpipe with the turbo cat back.

here's the current decat on the turbo exhaust. the thought is to shift it forward to match the stock downpipe by cutting out a section from the turbo downpipe and adding that to the middle pipe, but by how much?

DSC08785.JPG


well the turbo pipes front flange is 37cm from the swaybar, the stock downpipe flange was 28cm

DSC08782.JPG


the turbo pipes rear flange is 68cm from the swaybar, the stock mid-pipe flange was 58cm

DSC08783.JPG


so I need to cut 10cm out of the front pipe and add it to the mid pipe.
the front & mid pipe are 57mm so it's perfect to butt weld.

began removing the turbo

 
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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the turbo exhaust

DSC08786.JPG


was gonna cut 10cm between the hanger and front flange so the hanger's not disturbed but there's a slight bend (marked green).
the nearest straight pipe I can trim 10cm off is marked in red then swapped to the mid pipe, but I would have to cut and relocate the hanger

DSC08787.JPG


so this is the 10cm section I'll be cutting

DSC08788.JPG


will have to cut this piece off

DSC08789.JPG
DSC08790.JPG


dremel n hammered off then grinded smooth

DSC08791.JPG
DSC08792.JPG


mark the 10cm section

DSC08793.JPG


cut on table saw to ensure a clean square straight cut to make butt welding easier

DSC08794.JPG


front pipe split

DSC08795.JPG


mid pipe split

DSC08796.JPG


just need clean up and its ready to weld

DSC08797.JPG


gonna fit the stock down pipe & cat, weld up the turbo mid pipe so the rear flange is at the correct angle, and then weld up the front turbo flange
 
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You know Paul I haven't met such a stubborn inspiration such as yourself in a long time. I've pretty much ditched my car since JAE as a break from it because I thought it was giving me a hard time... to see all the grief you get each week yet continue regardless makes me feel like I need to pick myself up and get on with it

Next time you get time you get some spare time and money I think it needs to be spent enjoying the car

Keep at it Paul. You're a genuinely brilliant bloke.. and I believe I'm not just speaking for me
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You know Paul I haven't met such a stubborn inspiration such as yourself in a long time. I've pretty much ditched my car since JAE as a break from it because I thought it was giving me a hard time... to see all the grief you get each week yet continue regardless makes me feel like I need to pick myself up and get on with it

Next time you get time you get some spare time and money I think it needs to be spent enjoying the car

Keep at it Paul. You're a genuinely brilliant bloke.. and I believe I'm not just speaking for me
thanks so much andy for ur kind support n valuable help, means alot to me :cool:

running such an experimental car is bound to create issues to fix and sometimes they don't go to plan n get emotional but cos it's my only daily car and deadlines like MOT, etc come up annually, I have to keep on moving, gather a plan and get on with it, they're not gonna fix themselves eh (ok some exceptions).

giving up n calling it a day might be suitable for when you've identified potential difficult expensive issues early on and haven't invested/committed too much (pull out before it robs ya) but in my case I've invested n committed too much time, money, effort, R&D to simply throw it all away. there are still afew affordable options to try and once I've tried n failed every single one and things start to get expensive, that'll be the time to call it off.

JAE was prob the only holiday I've had off work considering its such as early company n see loadsa hard work coming along. once we're more financially stable then I'll re-evaluate the options. trackday n roadtrip would be a nice luxury.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
start on the exhaust by first welding the 10cm extension to the mid pipe. was abit rusty at starting the arc but soon got it, always to hesitant and that's what makes it stick or blow-though :rolleyes: just strike the arc confidently then pulse the weld along in one go.

DSC08799.JPG


fitted the stock mani n downpipe n split halves of the mid-section. mark the angle it should be welded, remove, then resume welding the mid-pipe together.

DSC08800.JPG


fitted the lengthened turbo mid-pipe to the stock front pipes and it's fine:cool:

right, removed the stock mani n downpipe, fit the turbo mani n split halves of the downpipe, mark the angle to weld, remove to weld it all up

DSC08802.JPG


refit it back and now it fits perfectly:)

DSC08803.JPG


not gonna bother welding the front hanger on yet cos I can always do that next time after the MOT
but now I finally have a cat-back exhaust that can fit both stock and turbo downpipes :cool: no more tedious swapping back boxes :D

tomorrow resume fitting the stock exhaust n get it running
 
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Ed

Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
new bores, new rings, new shells, stiffer oil expanders, hotter thermo, and the same problems still there. the only last cause would be the pistons themselves. there's nothing more I can do now short of paying thousands for an engine specialist to restart it all over again and ain't worth it tbh

I read the dipstick at jae on a grassy slope so twas prob abit off. I think Min to Max on the stick was bout 750ml? so 1/2 a stick is bout 0.35-0.4L per 200m. but yeah tis an unusually large consumption for a new build.

it doesn't smoke during cold-hot starts anymore now, yet to record a recent onboard exhaust video on WOT to see if it still smokes oil on full pull.

after bed-in, the gaps roughly 0.356mm top, 0.457mm second, 0.457mm oil
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-92#post-624126
Hmm, those ring gaps are fine really. Something is a miss then, or the hone finish on the bores is not great/straight etc etc
 

Ed

Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
Polly what did you do in the first 30 mins of the new forged engine running? Describe minute by minute if you can? And:

Were the bores fresh?

Did you have BRAND NEW rings?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hmm, those ring gaps are fine really. Something is a miss then, or the hone finish on the bores is not great/straight etc etc
yea maybe the honing was too course and the deep valleys, that the rings can't reach, are retaining way too much oil? not enough to visibly smoke nor foul the plugs but enough to wet all 4 pistons evenly.

here's when I first measured the fresh bores, all mostly round with a fraction of "bowlness? - looser mid-section"
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-71#post-552041

surface finish


all 4 pistons show the same amount of dampness across any rpm or load range so could be more of an issue with the surface finish letting oil sneek by the rings than the bore shape making the rings flutter?

after bed-in, the front & rear sides of the bores have slight vertical marks from the pistons, mostly round n straight and can still see the honing
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-92#post-624941

 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Polly what did you do in the first 30 mins of the new forged engine running? Describe minute by minute if you can? And:

Were the bores fresh?

Did you have BRAND NEW rings?
bores were freshly machined, new rings, assembled and initially bedded with 20w50 mineral.
currently at work so can't hear my vids but I've videoed the entire process.

first start up, 8mins hold revs at 2-3k till its warmed up, check leaks etc

first drive out, 5mins driving out of garage, 8mins driving normally low loads through town to warm up, some traffic but keeping revs up n moving, but then the big ends came loose n shut off immediately

after fixing the big ends with new shells, 3mins drive out of garage, 12min drive normally through town to warm up, 30mins in country pulse n gliding initially with zero boost low revs afew times and then progressively apply more load with slightly higher revs more and more as the miles go up. following motomans method. change oil after 20miles

the rest of the videos continue the break-in process
 
yeah the honing marks of my bores does look slightly too shallow doesn't it :confused:
ya think I'll have to start all over again?

..hmm this site says optimum angle is 45deg which is what mine appears like
http://www.brushresearch.com/engine-hone.php
Compared to the diagram they do bud, as in they could be at a steeper angle going into the bore even if they are at near 45 deg cross pattern at the moment.

Though your a good engine builder Paul if i were you id be tempted to get another bloc in best nick/cheap as you can & get it machined again buy a well recommended engineer.

As an example Matt Humphirs engine build charges around £300 to assemble a whole bottom end. I know its more money but you've got this far its better to pay to do it right once that keep putting money at it.

In no way am i saying you wouldnt be capable! But you have some go back if the works carried out under a guarantee
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Compared to the diagram they do bud, as in they could be at a steeper angle going into the bore even if they are at near 45 deg cross pattern at the moment.

Though your a good engine builder Paul if i were you id be tempted to get another bloc in best nick/cheap as you can & get it machined again buy a well recommended engineer.

As an example Matt Humphirs engine build charges around £300 to assemble a whole bottom end. I know its more money but you've got this far its better to pay to do it right once that keep putting money at it.

In no way am i saying you wouldnt be capable! But you have some go back if the works carried out under a guarantee
that diagram sketch on ur link is just a very rough illustration sketch. its says 45deg and looking at my pic the honing is bout 45deg so is prob fine. maybe the finish is too course.

starting all over with another block (buy spare engine, rebore, new rings, new shells, re-mod girdle cage, etcetc = £200+) or paying millions to an engine specialist would be a nice money no object option but I ain't going through all that again and the end result for all the extra spending ain't worth it tbh when simply buying and cleaning a spare stock 1.3 will do.

if this current engine just requires a slight re-finish (tis already close to a perfect 71.5mm) and new £100 rings (and I think I'll drill more oil drain back holes in the pistons) and re-bedding then tis acceptable but a complete expensive start over isn't.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
stock exhaust n injectors on. she starts quite sluggishly, drove out to fuel up and occasionally kangaroos n loses power at 2k but ok with light throttle or keeping revs high.
thought it was timing so adjusted timing.
then the idle randomly struggles, MAF or dirty injectors? so sprayed MAF with carb cleaner, still reads the same voltage so ain't that.
o2 kept saying lean so maybe injectors dirty from being stored so long?

then dad popped over, chat bout it then he mentioned electronics? computer?

Oh Facepalm, course the ECU DOH!:confused:
forgot to change from turbo map to stock map. silly, no wonder it was sluggish.

back to stock map and the low end torque and response has improved a lot (still slow :p)

blast down motorway n country, check plugs and they're white again but now all 4 pistons are POOLING with oil like the very first time I ran these forged pistons :oops:
somethings really really not right with these pistons to make it leak so much. can't see smoke, sounds quite diesel-like at low 750rpm idle, oil too thin? when I rev the nuts of it I get alot of piston slap noise like a vtec (sounds scary like its gonna blow but don't care now)

I highly doubt it'll pass emissions with all that oil but I'll give it a go to see how far off it really is.
 

frank

Club Member
it,ll probably smoke and rattle less if you pull some timing eh paul, have you set it with the strobe yet ?
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
it,ll probably smoke and rattle less if you pull some timing eh paul, have you set it with the strobe yet ?
yep, changed map back to stock, set timing to 15deg 750rpm in datascan and matched the strobe with it.
 

frank

Club Member
suppose cos NA is under constant vacuum sucking oil past the rings/bores whereas with the turbo there's occasional +ve pressure to reduce the amount of leakage.
vacuum in the inlet mani wont give negative cylinder pressures tho eh paul (just lower dynamic compression ratio,s) i,m sure it will smoke and rattle less if you pull some timing (2 or 3mm on the dizzy slots)
and i assume you changed both the fuel and spark maps back to stock ?
 

Ed

Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
yeah the honing marks of my bores does look slightly too shallow doesn't it :confused:
ya think I'll have to start all over again?

..hmm this site says optimum angle is 45deg which is what mine appears like
http://www.brushresearch.com/engine-hone.php
Damn polly. If you want to be SURE you get this right, bring the pistons with NEW rings to me and I'll get the block machined/honed for you. Its about £100 but I can guarantee it will be done to better than OEM tolerances.

You can then rebuild it and carefully gap your rings to the specs I also give you.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
vacuum in the inlet mani wont give negative cylinder pressures tho eh paul (just lower dynamic compression ratio,s) i,m sure it will smoke and rattle less if you pull some timing (2 or 3mm on the dizzy slots)
and i assume you changed both the fuel and spark maps back to stock ?
ah ur right, the only time there's vacuum in the cylinder is during the intake stroke sucking air in and, if the throttle's shut, a small initial portion of the compression stroke.
during the other 3 strokes (compress, combust if throttle open/uncompress if coasting, exhaust) the cylinders mostly under +ve pressure.

map is changed to stock map
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Damn polly. If you want to be SURE you get this right, bring the pistons with NEW rings to me and I'll get the block machined/honed for you. Its about £100 but I can guarantee it will be done to better than OEM tolerances.

You can then rebuild it and carefully gap your rings to the specs I also give you.
ooh thx so much for the kind offer Ed :)

I might have previously had 3 bad lucks with the engine blocks for these pistons:
- first block from Noddie was too loose,
- 2nd was too tight and reused old rings with prob bad honing from my cousins machinist,
- and although this 3rd block has good tolerances, it might be bad honing finish by the same guy?

knowing your quality of work, starting all over with new bores, rings, bearings machined by a different expert seems to be the best chance of getting it to work this 4th time.

the current engine block is already at the perfect 71.5mm dia so honing any more would just make it even looser won't it?
think its best to start over from a smaller dia stock engine block to be able to machine it spot on to JEs min spec.

asked myself if I'd prob need to obtain another spare block for the re-bore and re-mod the girdle cage to fit my windage tray cos I heard the girdle cages can't be interchanged else the crank bore alignment could be offset n cause binding?

but then whilst driving home I realised HEY what bout my recently broken stock 1.3 block that just had a fractured piston #3 ringland?
that block could be machined to the exact forged piston spec PLUS I've already modded that girdle cage for the windage tray :cool:
good thing I didn't just scrap it.

btw would it be a good thing to drill more oil drain back holes on the forged pistons oil ring groove, allowing scraped oil to drain off the rings faster rather than build up?

alright so provided I have the time off work and enough finance, the plan would be:
- send Ed the spare stock block and head to be bored,honed,decked & skimmed perfectly and forged pistons to have more oil drain holes drilled.
- then I reassemble with new rings gapped (I found as frank prev said that the gaps actually increased then stabilise after bed-in, so I should prob gap em slightly tighter than spec at first? so that after bed-in they'll be absolute perfect?),
- use the 72mm oil expanders to scrape harder,
- new bearing shells,
- fit windage tray onto already modded girdle cage.
what mineral oil?

how do you bed ur engines in Ed and what method would you recommend?
- bedding-in the engine on an engine dyno before fitting is prob the ideal scenario but I'm guessing it's likely to be very expensive.
- what bout fitting the engine in the car, trailing it over to ur place and then do the initial start & bed the engine in a controlled environment ie. ur rolling road?

apologies for the many Q's :D
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
looking likely that I'll be breaking one of my previous rules in going for another expensive complete rebuild :p once I can afford it
 

Ed

Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
ooh thx so much for the kind offer Ed :)

I might have previously had 3 bad lucks with the engine blocks for these pistons:
- first block from Noddie was too loose,
- 2nd was too tight and reused old rings with prob bad honing from my cousins machinist,
- and although this 3rd block has good tolerances, it might be bad honing finish by the same guy?

knowing your quality of work, starting all over with new bores, rings, bearings machined by a different expert seems to be the best chance of getting it to work this 4th time.

the current engine block is already at the perfect 71.5mm dia so honing any more would just make it even looser won't it?
think its best to start over from a smaller dia stock engine block to be able to machine it spot on to JEs min spec.
I get the blocks machined TO the pistons. That means if one pistons is slightly different size to another we can account for it.

asked myself if I'd prob need to obtain another spare block for the re-bore and re-mod the girdle cage to fit my windage tray cos I heard the girdle cages can't be interchanged else the crank bore alignment could be offset n cause binding?
Absolutely CANNOT swap the main cage from one block to another.

but then whilst driving home I realised HEY what bout my recently broken stock 1.3 block that just had a fractured piston #3 ringland?
that block could be machined to the exact forged piston spec PLUS I've already modded that girdle cage for the windage tray :cool:
good thing I didn't just scrap it.
That would probably be fine but I'd want to see what you had done to the cage first.

btw would it be a good thing to drill more oil drain back holes on the forged pistons oil ring groove, allowing scraped oil to drain off the rings faster rather than build up?
NO way!!!!!!! Completely out of the question. JE have done it the way they have as their R&D would have shown it works. Do NOT touch the pistons in any way at all!!

alright so provided I have the time off work and enough finance, the plan would be:
- send Ed the spare stock block and head to be bored,honed,decked & skimmed perfectly and forged pistons to have more oil drain holes drilled.
First bit fine - but DO NOT touch the pistons.
- then I reassemble with new rings gapped (I found as frank prev said that the gaps actually increased then stabilise after bed-in, so I should prob gap em slightly tighter than spec at first? so that after bed-in they'll be absolute perfect?),
Not if your following my guides. The rings on a diamond honed bore hardly change at all. You gap to the spec I suggest, and leave it at that.
- use the 72mm oil expanders to scrape harder,
No, you use the correct rings for the job, If you are unsure send me the pistons and I'll get a ring set for you.
- new bearing shells,
- fit windage tray onto already modded girdle cage.
what mineral oil?
Sounds fine, run in with 15/40 mineral oil.

how do you bed ur engines in Ed and what method would you recommend?
I get a new engine up to temp in the workshop holding it between 2-4K rpm doing short small bursts, if no leaks then take if for a quick short drive doing the same but little less rpm if anything, then back again for a checkup. If its all good then I'll take it out for a longer drive say 20 miles light to medium throttle upto 3-4K. If turbo I will show the engine a few psi of boost. After the 20 miles I drop the oil and change it for 15w40 again. Allow it to totally cool and then repeat the drive. After this the engine if built correctly will be dry and smoke free. It doesn't take long, diamond honed bores settle in REALLY quickly. Then 1000 miles and onto 5/50 fully synth race oil.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I get the blocks machined TO the pistons. That means if one pistons is slightly different size to another we can account for it.
awsome. the thrust faces of the skirts are slightly scuffed and piston #3 skirt has a bit worn off the end of the skirt, is that ok?
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-92#post-624941

here's the JE pistons job sheet
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-58#post-523614

and their guide
http://www.jepistons.com/PDFs/TechCorner/SCPDrawings/piston_instrc2618.pdf

have you used JE pistons before and ever encountered this type of oil issue?

Absolutely CANNOT swap the main cage from one block to another.
yep thats what my local machinist says too cos block and girdle are machined together

That would probably be fine but I'd want to see what you had done to the cage first.
here's when I was grinding the stock engines girdle cage features to fit the windage tray I designed
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-64#post-532545

assembled windage setup
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-66

did the same for the forged engine block I'm running now
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-66#post-535485

NO way!!!!!!! Completely out of the question. JE have done it the way they have as their R&D would have shown it works. Do NOT touch the pistons in any way at all!!
K we'll leave em

Not if your following my guides. The rings on a diamond honed bore hardly change at all. You gap to the spec I suggest, and leave it at that.
suppose the "old school" engine builder that my cousin sent the block to (these past 2 times) had prob honed it incorrectly and may have caused all these issues?
diamond honed is like a finer precise finish?

No, you use the correct rings for the job, If you are unsure send me the pistons and I'll get a ring set for you.
I can send an email to Sebastian at JE to order another £166 worth of XC7150 rings

Sounds fine, run in with 15/40 mineral oil.
any brand will do? just go to halfords or motor factors n get some cheapo 15w40 mineral?

I get a new engine up to temp in the workshop holding it between 2-4K rpm doing short small bursts, if no leaks then take if for a quick short drive doing the same but little less rpm if anything, then back again for a checkup. If its all good then I'll take it out for a longer drive say 20 miles light to medium throttle upto 3-4K. If turbo I will show the engine a few psi of boost. After the 20 miles I drop the oil and change it for 15w40 again. Allow it to totally cool and then repeat the drive. After this the engine if built correctly will be dry and smoke free. It doesn't take long, diamond honed bores settle in REALLY quickly. Then 1000 miles and onto 5/50 fully synth race oil.
that procedure's just what I need and pretty much how I started.
would it be better and more consistant if it was done on a dyno rather than potentially getting stuck in traffic and ruining the critical initial procedure?
are wet oily pistons on a new rebuild engine normal or should it really be dry from the start?
 

Ed

Fusion Motorsport
MSC Founder
Official MSC Trader
I need to see those pistons properly. They look damaged. Can you send to me, or are they still in the block. I'll also measure rings, I'm sure I will be able to get you some much cheaper, and possibly better from Total seal etc.

Halfords 15/40 will be fine. Cage thing looks ok. although I don't feel its necessary. There are enough of these in motorsport with nothing at all fitted, behaving fine.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I need to see those pistons properly. They look damaged. Can you send to me, or are they still in the block. I'll also measure rings, I'm sure I will be able to get you some much cheaper, and possibly better from Total seal etc.

Halfords 15/40 will be fine. Cage thing looks ok. although I don't feel its necessary. There are enough of these in motorsport with nothing at all fitted, behaving fine.
I'm still running the forged piston engine at the mo, going to MOT it and see if this oily piston issue makes it fail emissions. Once I pass MOT with either forged or another stock engine, I can then disassemble the forged engine, check and pop down with it.

that'll be great if you could research into the most appropriate rings for these pistons to suit my daily & track use. aren't there gap-less rings available too?

righteo I'll use that oil

I made the windage tray & trapdoor gate to help control the oil cos I was hearing what sounded like oil starvation during fast long bends on track like during oulton's 180deg bend @3:30 and 5:50 of this clip

 
Id never seen that vid until today Paul, squeaky backside moment right there!! :p Same place that Dave @Super S Dave had his off but he ended up the other side of Druids

Liftoff oversteer over the crest?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Id never seen that vid until today Paul, squeaky backside moment right there!! :p Same place that Dave @Super S Dave had his off but he ended up the other side of Druids

Liftoff oversteer over the crest?
yeah bit of brown sauce moment. druids is such a scary fast corner, can see that black tyre wall u don't wanna hit and always unsure if the car'll make it, it either understeers or oversteers halfway.

at that bit of the video I braked in straight line but at the middle of the track (always scared that if I take the wide dirty entry line in I'll just go off into gravel), started the turn but then lifted the brakes too early, so the weight went to the back wheels and it understeered, instinctively tried to apply more steering but only makes it worse, outside wheels go on the grass and the light rear end suddenly loses grip so I power countersteer to pull it straight (that skid training course I did at the VXR trackday is a life-saver), got it back but went the other way and so close to the other barrier but was saved. phew, it was a slippery greasy track that day.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Good News

She's passed MOT :)
guy said it was a struggle at first prob due to burning all that oil but then they poured in fuel cleaner and sorted that.
CO = 0% and HC = 40ppm

fuel cleaner was extra £18 but that's a small price to pay compared to the £190 cost of swapping to another stock engine and retesting.

minor advisories are loose steering grip, low rear brake efficiency and protruding bonnet corners lol

such relief, no longer have the stress to quickly buy n fit a spare engine to pass the test. I can now take my time removing the engine, disassemble n asses, drive down to Ed in moms car with the pistons, new rings, old engine block/head to be machined. once it's all ready I reassemble to Eds spec, reinstall engine, and restart the breaking-in process properly this time :cool:
 
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