Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Probably a more scientific way of doing it, just more expensive.shall I work up the grade progressively? 15w40 semi - 20w50 semi
or fully synth
or you recommend sumthing? have no idea what the ideal oil is
Probably a more scientific way of doing it, just more expensive.shall I work up the grade progressively? 15w40 semi - 20w50 semi
or fully synth
or you recommend sumthing? have no idea what the ideal oil is
Good write up, remember me when Frank took me for a drive around his roundaboutmind was thinking am I allowed/covered, what if? and before mentally answering thought ah fookit
sit in, seat was fixed so had to adapted position like when I once drove the oversized-kart ariel atom. what a privilege to experience such extreme experimental beast from the skunkworks of frankville![]()
That's correctandy n andy, according to wiki the first number ahead of W is the cold start viscos and the 2nd number is the hot viscos?
went to halfords to see if there's any thick synthetics and nearest I found are some 5w50 synth (5w when cold maybe too thin for a very slack forged piston? ran it before with the new bore/used ring setup and made no difference to oily piston), and 10w60 mobil1 (hot grade tis prob as thick as it gets and tis fully synth too)
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you think that'll run in the cg13de ok with +10C thermo and slack pistons and ok'ish new bearings?
if this doesn't work then nothing else at all will
Register your car over here mate insteadthis is cutting edge cocking about
increasing oil thickness is literally the only last thing I could do now short of a complete unfeasible expensive rebuild or bin it.
suppose when I swap back to stock, even if the pistons only slightly oily, I'll pop it through some emissions machine (local garage or my cousins) to see if the oil burning is actually enough to fail the mot
if only I could move n live over thereRegister your car over here mate insteadim sure there would be problems with insurance etc with you being across unfortunately
Neither is the gap between rods n shells, ring gaps n piston to bore clearance but any small increase should be accountableP*ssing in the wind honestly. The difference in viscosity between a 40 and 50 oil isn't much, you're talking 5cst based on average grade values
Indeed would be nice to quickly find if the trackday heat would resolve the oily piston, which would then mean that these are only for racing and not the roads which'll mean it doesn't have a future.It'll give you a definitive answer at least![]()
Aye its a lot of guessing. I have tried to rebuild everything that surrounds the pistons from the bore to rings to shells to the seals with no effect which leaves the piston as the only cause.P*ssing in the wind honestly. The difference in viscosity between a 40 and 50 oil isn't much, you're talking 5cst based on average grade values. A heavy classic grade like 20w70 may make a dent but it's sadly only a bandaid to a larger underlying issue :, (
It's bite the bullet and get an engine builder time surely?
Yea forged has never ever been able control its oil, headache since day1you was having more fun out the stock engine,this ones dodgy from the start i recon,other wise they'd have used it themself ??? maybe maybe not.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-92#post-624941What's the dimensions of the pistons Paul?
I've videoed the pistons with the scope and they appear the same oilyness hot or cold. not measured the piston tops with IR yetTrying to find you some wiggle room.. but you none really... have you looked at the pistons once theyre warm? Or took a temperature reading of them?
Maybe an idea? See what temp they're getting too and compare that to the JE Specs?I've videoed the pistons with the scope and they appear the same oilyness hot or cold. not measured the piston tops with IR yet
Thicker oil has worsened it10w20? 0w20? 10w30?
JE sheet doesn't specify tempsMaybe an idea? See what temp they're getting too and compare that to the JE Specs?
do you think all these symptoms I'm having is similar to clogged oil ring drain back holes? stuck oil rings?Thicker oil has worsened it
I wouldn't suggest going too low. Maybe 0w30 as your lowest grade
Could well be but you've had them all out recently and were clean. You could be right there could be a fault with the oil rings themselves.do you think all these symptoms I'm having is similar to clogged oil ring drain back holes? stuck oil rings?
ie. as if these JE piston oil holes are too little too few?
ok I'll try 0w30 synthetic tomorrow
the expanders are now twice as draggy as before and it's made little difference, still as oily as before, and thicker oil seems to make it worse so logical last step is to go thinner to help it drain through the holes away from the rings.the different oil weights have done sweet F/A really paul, the oil control rings are the key factor imo, the consumption/smoke issues have only reduced when you increased the pressure of those rings really
I meant could the restrictive oil drain back hole design flaw show a similar symptom to stuck/clogged oil rings?Could well be but you've had them all out recently and were clean. You could be right there could be a fault with the oil rings themselves.
You've had them out re-spec'd them and still getting the issue :/
Do they suggest a certain oil grade? I'd say oil grade is vital to such a fine a tolerance as this setup is
Aye I'm with you on that one. Had a thought last night a thicker oil will have/need a higher pressure to move it around.I meant could the restrictive oil drain back hole design flaw show a similar symptom to stuck/clogged oil rings?
rings when fresh we're gapped perfectly.
after bed-in they've worn in slightly wider due to the smoothed larger bore but still within spec.
no mention of oil, temps etc etc on their sheet, just the clearances
I'm not giving up on the car, course not, but I am giving up on the forged piston engine.Dont give up. Take a break and come back another day![]()
thank you micrAde, indeed its a learning curve to know when to call it a day before it starts to burn ur money away fast.With the amount of time, money and effort that has gone into this project I feel I speak for everyone when I say how sorry and sad I am that this is how this chapter ends :'(
Sometimes, as hard as it is, the right decision can be to just cut your losses and walk away.
Paul, you are an inspiration to us all and your willingness to share your experiences and r&d with other members is to be admired.
Whichever direction this project now takes I hope you don't lose your mojo and you come back stronger than ever to keep us educated and entertained.
Good luck Paul and thank you, whatever happens
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First of all, just Ade please Paulthank you micrAde
well that was an expensive lesson ain't it![]()
righteo AdeFirst of all, just Ade please Paul
And second of all that sounds like marriagelol
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and cheaper to repair/replace when it breaksAt least with a stock engine you can continue to enjoy the wonders of boost![]()