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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just ordered a set of those extended studs for the hubs cos gonna need em anyway

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next i'll be needing a set of 8mm spacers and have several options:

option 1. £62 on a set of 8mm spacers from australia
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WHEEL-SPA...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc8267047

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option 2. £14 for a set of 5mm spacers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270822574463?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

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with £14 for a set of 3mm spacers to make 8mm spacer = £28 total
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280749745473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

option 3. whilst googling 8mm spacers I just noticed this thread about making spacers from old brake discs, genius:cool:
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/tec...n-8mm-wheel-spacers-less-than-30-minutes.html

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i still had my old scrap grooved pulsar discs in the garage. measured the thickness

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and its 7.75mm:) close enough

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now if only I'd didn't scrap the original non-grooved pulsar discs I'd have a full set:rolleyes:

so the front spacers sorted I'll need a pair of spacers for the rears with either
£31 8mm spacer or
£14 seperate 5/3mm spacers or
I find another pair of old/new brake discs with the same thickness to chop up.
GTIR front discs are least £39 new. anyone know what cars would use the same PCD and disc hub thickness? maybe discs from other smaller pulsars?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ordered the pair of discs.

compared to the other options of using hollow expensive spacers etc, these set of cut pulsar discs will space the wheels out upto the 8mm i need, centered on the hub cos they're the same centre bore as the current discs so thery're balanced and being solid will enable full heat dissipation from the brakes to the alloys :)
 
Hi polly nice work on the oil system seems to be working a treat! whilst reading through about you wheels have you considered team dynamics? 15x7 wheels are only 6.9kg & are great for cooling brakes :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hi polly nice work on the oil system seems to be working a treat! whilst reading through about you wheels have you considered team dynamics? 15x7 wheels are only 6.9kg & are great for cooling brakes :)

hey cheers skinner, yeah i'm hoping the oil control system will work alright once up n running. just in process of slowly templating and making the crank girdle baffle/windage tray.

buying new alloys would be ideal but won't be economical after adding the costs of removing & swapping tyres and selling the BBS's and since the r888's are already on the BBS's, using spacers is the easiest and cheapest way
 

markbognor

Ex. Club Member
Club Member
I love the chopping up brake discs idea. But why buy new when there are hundreds of cars in breakers yards all over the place with disks in 4x100 a plenty.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I love the chopping up brake discs idea. But why buy new when there are hundreds of cars in breakers yards all over the place with disks in 4x100 a plenty.

cos i cba to goto the scrappys n jack up every car to measure the disc/hub thickness, especially in this weather, till i find one thats 8mm and dunno what price i'll be quoted, whereas i definately know that these pulsar/almera discs are bout 8mm thick at a reasonable price
 

markbognor

Ex. Club Member
Club Member
Yeah I'll go with that, I know as well as anyone the value of time.

They will result in far superior spacers too because there is full surface contact on both sides.
 
Paul I have some gti discs if you want them, I'll try and dig them out and check the thickness. It'd be cheaper than buying new
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Found them 8mm just like you said, if you want them let me know :)

ah brill karl. 4x100 pcd yeah?
where bouts you based? how much ya want for em?

i should normally prob be able to return n refunded the gtir disc i just ordered on ebay when i receive em shouldn't I?
 
Yeah 4x100 call it £15 posted, they're no good to me due to the weight

You should be able to return and get a refund, double check the sellers legal info
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yeah 4x100 call it £15 posted, they're no good to me due to the weight

You should be able to return and get a refund, double check the sellers legal info

fab. is paypal alright? whats ur paypal email?

the ebay listing says they accept returns
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made the card model

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fit onto the spare engine

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the metal side flanges will be bent to fit

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few edges needs abit of trimming

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
once trimmed it clears the crank better.
this is with cyl 1&4 bigends towards us

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now cyl 2-3 bigends towards us

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all the clearances are at least 1mm close

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slot around the pickup support needs trimming back abit

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to fit the pickup on

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remeasure the new cuts and update into the CAD model

i'll need to feature some vertical indents to match the ribbings on the sump walls

for the crucial bends such as around the scraper i think it'll be cut from seperate pieces n tack welded together cos the sheet metal bender makes inconsistant 3mm radius. I'll use the sheet bender for the flange ends where its bolted to the girdle.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
remade the scraper section cos it was 1mm off and recut the access hole n ribbing slots. fits much nicer now

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lets make the other side
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made the front tray

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will need to grind flat the petruding blocks at the corners of the girdle cage so removed the cage

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the main bearings from the stock engine looks alright. few scratches, nothing major

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with the girdle out I'm able to fit both the trays and visualise properly how it'll funnel the stream of oil down towards the opening at the bottom

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just the hinge gates to make and we're ready to fabricate
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made the first three but 4th one needs remeasuring and need to figure out a way of hinging it

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
feel i need to increase the gate opening angle from 10-20deg to allow more drainage flow such as during high revs and cold/winter start and sacrifice abit of closure response time when the flow reverses cos the oil drains down through gravity and have enough output flow is better than an insufficient restricted flow that could pool & whip up the oil above and starve the pickup below
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'm having to retweak/remodel the tray design cos the sump has some odd taper shape measurements so making it will take awhile since I'll have to make a new mockup, test fit and further tweak.

cousin and I were gonna goto oulton park on Aug 14th and considering the engine needs building, windage tray built precisely and everything fitted together proper and slowly bed the engine for 1000m, schedules abit tight (assuming the rings bed in this time)

plus the cars MOT's coming the next few months so this engine has to work properly or else
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
remeasured & corrected the dimensions of the girdle & crank as accurately as possible so that i can design the crank scraper as close as possible.

the trays been redesigned to have individual sections for rigidity and eliminate any hole gaps when accessing the securing bolts at the sides

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the vertical sides of the tray been tapered to clear the ribbings on the sump

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the thick embossed outer edge feature under the girdle at cyl 3-4 is restricting the amount of space for fitting the 10mm securing bolts of the trapdoor support brackets, plus it creates some obstruction to the oil flowing out sideways from the trapdoor port.

so by cutting that feature away in the model and cutting the same profile edge on where the windage tray bolts to the girdle, the trapdoor brackets can be wider and stronger n easily fit the 10mm bolts

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note of the cast markings on the girdle cage

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now i begin cutting away this embossed edge

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smoothed out the casting flash lines

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and grinded flat the protruding blocks at the ends of the cage

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hands are aching from holding the grinder tightly so long and i'm covered in Alu dust

wouldn't like to do this grinding job twice so I hope that the machined crank main bearing bore on this girdle cage exactly matches the one on the forged engine thats being assembled.

speaking of which, i just rang the machinist and he says to get the right ring gap he'll have to rebore out the cylinders. he'd better take note of the piston to bore gap and that they're within min spec.
woulda thought you'd first machine the piston to bore gaps to min specs and then file the ring end gaps to match that bore?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made the front end

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test fitted in the sump pan and it just bout clears the front and back but the LH corner just fouls the sump slightly. Rather than remodel, print, cut and tape a new one i just trimmed the section

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the tapered corner clears the sump but now fouls the sump ribbing so bashed em flat on an anvil

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fits now

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testing how the 10mm socket fits, its very tight

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fit on the block to check the scraper

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even after accurately modelling all the parts, the scraper still needed abit of trimming to clear the crank

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the left-most section of the scraper was cut out cos there's just so little metal that it'll prob melt as i tack weld it and offers minimal function

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the card models all cut up into sections to be plotted on the sheet metal, cut out and tacked together.

there's so much to do from maticulously rebuilding the engine to realigning the suspension for the new wheel setup to thoroughly breakin-in the new engine and triple check everything, that I'm not sure i can get it all ready in 4 weeks for oulton park on 14th :/
in theory if I go flat out long hours after work with no issues then i may finish it but i don't wanna exhaust myself silly and is bound to make mistakes and ruin the one and only expensive new engine, which would be disasterous for oulton park and JAE.

so I'll have to ring me cousin to hold, reschedule or sacrifice cancelling my oulton park trackday ticket until I can fully confirm its ready.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just talked to cousin and the latest deadline that I have to let the organiser know if i can make it is 6th aug so I'm just gonna go at my own pace and see if i get it running and leak-free by 6th and have a week to bed it in. If not, then there's always another trackday after JAE.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
all the cutouts carefully marked onto the sheet metal, trying to fit all the puzzle in was like the krypton factor. i have a ton of dremelling to do. tis too late in evening at the mo so will have to wait tomorrow

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just requested to return the new pulsar discs and courior will collect tomorrow but just realised the new discs were actually £15 plus postage doh!

so after buying the new discs £23.50 posted, buying karls used discs £15 posted, post the new discs back £7 and get refunded £15, I end up spending total of £30.50 for some used discs double doh silly me. damn i shoulda just kept it.
whatever lets move on:rolleyes:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tonight started cutting out the pieces and then the dremel decided to faulter. spent most hrs resoldering the dry joints, oiling the bearings, fixing the speed slider etc wasted aload of time but i managed to cut afew bits although it took ages to precisely follow the lines so making this tray is gonna take awhile. something tells me it doesn't want me to finish in time for oulton park
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
error. just remeasured, the bolts are suppose to be 10mm hex m6 bolts and checking with the CAD can only be 9mm long before it fouls the main journal cap bolts

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Thank god for that, I was expecting you to say no lol

just been so busy with work and designing this tray so totally forgot.
tis shame that I forgot I paid the same amount for the new discs and now ended up paying out double the original cost for ur discs due to the total amount i paid in postage for sending the new ones back :/
 
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