least they were well cusioned.Good to see they've arrivedthey could have shipped them in a smaller box though eh. haha.
You've probably looked but google only has one listing for that other code...they're classed as hi performance according to the pdf on jegpistons.com.
lol they won't be pleased and their feet'll prob keep kicking off the filter.Few extra holes in the bulkhead you can relocate it to the passenger footwell![]()
wheel arch'll require cutting? naa I'll leave the oil filter behind the block.you'd probs have to put it somewhere like wheel arch (depending on size) or something
I think the only issue you could have with running a non waxstat version is in winter, as the oil will be getting chilled way down...no idea how much of an effect it would have mind.
When i last looked there wasnt that much difference between the two, that was awhile ago now though.
mine has water cooling armando, but i want to avoid using it if i can, you are basically watercooling the exhaust mani imo (and dumping all that heat into the radBut my turbo doesn't have water cooling, just have the oil feed, maybe the oil gets hotter because of that....
Nah no cutting (as such) was thinking like where they mount the smaller IC on certain cars (like where the washer bottle sits on the micra)...you'd still have to find a way to run all the pipes though and they dont like being told where to go (based on my experience haha).wheel arch'll require cutting? naa I'll leave the oil filter behind the block.
Thats pretty much what the waxstat version does, it bypasses the oil cooler until the oil reaches the temp then opens up the lines accordingly. I think you'd need a different sandwich plate to fit a cooler, as yours is just for the filter (unless theres an adapter)...so you could either run an integrated unit (sandwich plate and waxstat) or just a normal sandwich plate plus the waxstat fit inbetween the oil lines.if the oil cooler is preventing the engine from heating up due to the freezing air passing through the oil cooler, it will block the cooler. or if the cooler is still overcooling the oil via thermal radiation i could disconnect and blank off the sandwich plate or fit a manual valve?
although being a turbo producing more heat than usual, maybe that'll be enough to keep the oil warm during normal driving in winter with a blocked off oil cooler?
My engine heats up the water very quickly anyway (stock rad or Swift rad, its the same), and the oil gets very hot too (when you turn the engine off you can hear the oil dripping.mine has water cooling armando, but i want to avoid using it if i can, you are basically watercooling the exhaust mani imo (and dumping all that heat into the rad)
the sump is a very efficient oil cooler, maybe add some fins paul![]()
with the 25mm k11 auto radiator, normal thermostat and long sparco IC, mine runs a normal 82C cruising on road and peaks 88C on a hot track. its when stationary where things get warmer and the coolant temps seems to be under control where fan goes at 92C and the temps drop down like norm.Nice job, as always.Hope that all goes fine with the new engine.
I will install an oil cooler relocation kit too, my engine gets very very hot. I have a 76ºC thermostat, 26mm thick Swift GTI radiator and another temp switch to turn the fan on at 92ºC. But my turbo doesn't have water cooling, just have the oil feed, maybe the oil gets hotter because of that...
BTW, do you have the template of the sump baffle? I could use something like that on my turbo engine... On the last trackday at a kart track, i had problems with fuel starvation on a 180º right bend, had more than 1/4 on the fuel gauge but on the track it was on the red. If we can get fuel starvation, we can surely get oil starvation...
aye when watercooling the turbo it's essentially become a direct oil to water cooler for the turbo & engine? the rad won't be happy with that extra heat.mine has water cooling armando, but i want to avoid using it if i can, you are basically watercooling the exhaust mani imo (and dumping all that heat into the rad)
the sump is a very efficient oil cooler, maybe add some fins paul![]()
with the solid IC piping, ABS, relay boxes, coolant tank on the LH, air filter, PAS on the RH, strutbar, carbon canister, oil catch, TB elbow, IC pipes and brake booster at the top rear I'm not sure a remote oil filters gonna work here.Nah no cutting (as such) was thinking like where they mount the smaller IC on certain cars (like where the washer bottle sits on the micra)...you'd still have to find a way to run all the pipes though and they dont like being told where to go (based on my experience haha).
Thats pretty much what the waxstat version does, it bypasses the oil cooler until the oil reaches the temp then opens up the lines accordingly. I think you'd need a different sandwich plate to fit a cooler, as yours is just for the filter (unless theres an adapter)...so you could either run an integrated unit (sandwich plate and waxstat) or just a normal sandwich plate plus the waxstat fit inbetween the oil lines.
Quite a bit of hassle / expense if you dont really end up needing it.![]()
the BBS wheels?Edited:
Should have looked at the price of one first
yeah i can't imaging the cost of em and will only end up using it few times and i guarantee i don't have the space for oneNo I suggested you bought your own tyre changing machine, but even second hand theyre expensive
i wouldn't like to spend £480 on a set of track tyres plus another £100-400 on alloys :/Personally id have just bought new tyres to save all this option working out/timewasting hassle lol