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pollyp
Club Member
You'll be done with plenty of time to spare Paul
est I'll be popping to urs next sat for lower brace and tyres, corner balance on sunday, few debug n ready for cadwell on 31st
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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
est I'll be popping to urs next sat for lower brace and tyres, corner balance on sunday, few debug n ready for cadwell on 31st
Mine will clear speed bumps ok Paul on 14" wheels with about a 60mm drop just as a guide
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pollyp
Club Member
made some new washers and managed to assemble the clutch pedal pivot, bolted in place
cleaned n clamped in place
upper mount welded on
all mounted together, cable hooked up and tested it.
nice, the bracket is now absolutely solid, pivot and pedal arm has zero play and the only flex is the arm itself.
motion is smooth, no creaking, didn't have to tighten the cable thumb screw all the way up, still slightly heavy feeling but thats prob the sticky release bearing, which is my next task after reassembling the dash.
cleaned n clamped in place
upper mount welded on
all mounted together, cable hooked up and tested it.
nice, the bracket is now absolutely solid, pivot and pedal arm has zero play and the only flex is the arm itself.
motion is smooth, no creaking, didn't have to tighten the cable thumb screw all the way up, still slightly heavy feeling but thats prob the sticky release bearing, which is my next task after reassembling the dash.
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pollyp
Club Member
time to sort out the widebands electrics:
- utilise the widebands analog output into the ECU input
- merge both the wideband & gauge power & ground all into one spot for a clean good feed.
so to do that, I wired the 12v, -ve & O2 output all to the ECU harness with a 3pin PC fan connector
assembled ECU unit
taped up the boost line to clear the heater
steering support beam on and neatened the wiring
the wideband digital output and programming port ziptied under the central lock loom for easy access incase I wanna reprogram or log the wideband
reapplied the heater fan blue tack seal
heater assembled. just need to roll the car out the garage tomorrow to fit dashboard and the interior is done before I begin taking the gearbox out
- utilise the widebands analog output into the ECU input
- merge both the wideband & gauge power & ground all into one spot for a clean good feed.
so to do that, I wired the 12v, -ve & O2 output all to the ECU harness with a 3pin PC fan connector
assembled ECU unit
taped up the boost line to clear the heater
steering support beam on and neatened the wiring
the wideband digital output and programming port ziptied under the central lock loom for easy access incase I wanna reprogram or log the wideband
reapplied the heater fan blue tack seal
heater assembled. just need to roll the car out the garage tomorrow to fit dashboard and the interior is done before I begin taking the gearbox out
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pollyp
Club Member
dash all assembled. before servicing the gearbox, lets go for a drive first to charge the battery n check it out
moved the clutch arm pin back to it's original spot to reduce the load.
noticed I only have to tighten the cable screw upto halfway now to get the bitepoint at 1/2 way from eliminating any bulkhead/pedal flex.
the clutch motion is very smooth with no sticking, still heavy though.
removing the threaded pedal stopper has positioned the pedal abit too far up cos my shoe is slightly catching the bottom of the dash so think I'll need to lower it abit.
with the improved efficiency of the clutch mechanism (release bearing throw per pedal travel) from less bulkhead flexing, I noticed that 1st/2nd gear are much easier to engage and reverse gear doesn't
crunch.
with the wideband wired into the ecu, it learns and reaches 14.7 afr much faster from cold to warm and the O2 response shown on datascan is alot faster than a standard narrowband, flicking up/down really fast.
brake pedal no longer rattles on motorway.
moved the clutch arm pin back to it's original spot to reduce the load.
noticed I only have to tighten the cable screw upto halfway now to get the bitepoint at 1/2 way from eliminating any bulkhead/pedal flex.
the clutch motion is very smooth with no sticking, still heavy though.
removing the threaded pedal stopper has positioned the pedal abit too far up cos my shoe is slightly catching the bottom of the dash so think I'll need to lower it abit.
with the improved efficiency of the clutch mechanism (release bearing throw per pedal travel) from less bulkhead flexing, I noticed that 1st/2nd gear are much easier to engage and reverse gear doesn't
crunch.
with the wideband wired into the ecu, it learns and reaches 14.7 afr much faster from cold to warm and the O2 response shown on datascan is alot faster than a standard narrowband, flicking up/down really fast.
brake pedal no longer rattles on motorway.
Why I never thought to suggest that! Had plans to make one for my pulsar just before I sold it, supposed to make a huge difference to the feel. Not only did they weld the leg to the bracket but they also welded a large slotted spacer where the cable bolts through to get more life from the cables
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Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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pollyp
Club Member
Nice upgrade pollyp! That clutch pedal is ready for a beating!
The sr20 guys make "tranny savers", that helps the clutch pivot point from flexing under hard load
thats a gr8 idea, thx daniel
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pollyp
Club Member
gearbox removed, clutch appears dry, just dusty
PP fingers normal
fair bit of wet splashing in the bell housing
the contact areas have the usual rusty red dust but unusually look at the dark wet oily staining at the lower end of the release bearing.
trying to figure out where this oily stain comes from. the gap between the input shaft & collar is dry so the shaft seal ain't leaking.
can assume perhaps its from road spray from the exposed gap wetting the area and dripping down?
oil has gunged the graphite powder into a thick slightly sticky paste
measured the clutch arm geometry.
the release bearing has a total throw distance of 15mm
the original pin location is 139mm from the pivot and requires 42mm of cable travel to provide the 15mm bearing travel.
the closer pin I drilled on the arm is 118mm from the pivot and requires 35mm of cable travel to provide 15mm of bearing travel.
for a given amount of pedal travel of say eg. 35mm, the original pin position gave a bearing travel of bout 12.6mm while the closer pin gave a bearing travel of 14.8mm (17.5% more throw) but at a cost of higher loads on the pedal assembly
PP fingers normal
fair bit of wet splashing in the bell housing
the contact areas have the usual rusty red dust but unusually look at the dark wet oily staining at the lower end of the release bearing.
trying to figure out where this oily stain comes from. the gap between the input shaft & collar is dry so the shaft seal ain't leaking.
can assume perhaps its from road spray from the exposed gap wetting the area and dripping down?
oil has gunged the graphite powder into a thick slightly sticky paste
measured the clutch arm geometry.
the release bearing has a total throw distance of 15mm
the original pin location is 139mm from the pivot and requires 42mm of cable travel to provide the 15mm bearing travel.
the closer pin I drilled on the arm is 118mm from the pivot and requires 35mm of cable travel to provide 15mm of bearing travel.
for a given amount of pedal travel of say eg. 35mm, the original pin position gave a bearing travel of bout 12.6mm while the closer pin gave a bearing travel of 14.8mm (17.5% more throw) but at a cost of higher loads on the pedal assembly
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pollyp
Club Member
opened the gearbox to check the LSD and reseal the leaking gasket.
to my surprise & found that all of the allen bolts on the LSD cover are loose
this ain't good, exerting strain on the pinion and diff bearing.
removing the cover and oh FFs christ
the most unreliable LSD ever
top view of the fracture
bottom view, can see where its been flattened n the fractures ends rubbing on the plates
close up of fracture 1
fracture 2
seems to be happening every single year, perhaps fatigue fracture from the same manufacture flaw or too much torque?
anyway it's too late to fix and tbh will not bother replacing the spring cos I guarantee it'll only fail again. will wanna replace it with clutch discs instead IF i decide to send the whole diff off to gripper again.
lets compare the discs from previous rebuilds: (feb 2012, mar 2013, aug 2013, oct 2014)
Outer 1 (1.90 , 1.89 , 1.89 , 1.94) think the pitted surface is affecting the reading
Inner 1 (1.75 , 1.73 , 1.73 , 1.74)
Outer 2 (1.10 , 1.54 , 1.53 , 1.55)
Inner 2 (1.54 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.52)
Outer 3 (0.95 , 0.94 , 0.93 , 0.94)
Inner 3 (1.53 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.54)
Outer 4 (1.55 , 1.34 , 1.33 , 1.32)
Inner 4 (1.55 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.54)
digital calipers abit inaccurate I think.
one of the ramps on the planet driver also developed a chipped edge on the Acceleration side.
to my surprise & found that all of the allen bolts on the LSD cover are loose
this ain't good, exerting strain on the pinion and diff bearing.
removing the cover and oh FFs christ
the most unreliable LSD ever
top view of the fracture
bottom view, can see where its been flattened n the fractures ends rubbing on the plates
close up of fracture 1
fracture 2
seems to be happening every single year, perhaps fatigue fracture from the same manufacture flaw or too much torque?
anyway it's too late to fix and tbh will not bother replacing the spring cos I guarantee it'll only fail again. will wanna replace it with clutch discs instead IF i decide to send the whole diff off to gripper again.
lets compare the discs from previous rebuilds: (feb 2012, mar 2013, aug 2013, oct 2014)
Outer 1 (1.90 , 1.89 , 1.89 , 1.94) think the pitted surface is affecting the reading
Inner 1 (1.75 , 1.73 , 1.73 , 1.74)
Outer 2 (1.10 , 1.54 , 1.53 , 1.55)
Inner 2 (1.54 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.52)
Outer 3 (0.95 , 0.94 , 0.93 , 0.94)
Inner 3 (1.53 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.54)
Outer 4 (1.55 , 1.34 , 1.33 , 1.32)
Inner 4 (1.55 , 1.53 , 1.53 , 1.54)
digital calipers abit inaccurate I think.
one of the ramps on the planet driver also developed a chipped edge on the Acceleration side.
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pollyp
Club Member
found a split tear in the front GTIR caliper guide pin boot.
ordered a new service kit from Bigg Red that services both calipers
product code BRK205458 £33.90 delivered
http://www.biggred.co.uk/catalogue.php
ordered a new service kit from Bigg Red that services both calipers
product code BRK205458 £33.90 delivered
http://www.biggred.co.uk/catalogue.php
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pollyp
Club Member
yup smeared abit on the touching surfaces
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pollyp
Club Member
brakes fitted, swapped to track alloys to fit the 595rsr onto, turbo WG adjusted, downpipe was too close to chassis and moves about so restrained it to hang abit lower by stuffing block of wood in it.
its midnight, too late to test so won't know if she'll be ready to goto andys till the morning.
its midnight, too late to test so won't know if she'll be ready to goto andys till the morning.
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pollyp
Club Member
Drives fine this morning. No rattles. Gears select ok. Clutch smooth n slightly less weighty but rests too high. Boost still only peaking 9psi for some reason, prob need new bov/actuator or test the gauge. Drifts to the left a lot but prob due to the uneven old tyres. On way to andy, there bout 1ish
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pollyp
Club Member
brought a pair of £10 mini bottle jacks in hope to jack the front end straight up equally during corner balance in this tight garage cos the trolley jack tends to lift and pulls the car offset.
problem is the tip is too high and too small to safely jack from under the wishbone bush
so I cut the adjustable tip end off and noticed I could just slip the threaded hole over the 14mm bolt to keep it located
like this but then realised the tiny jack only lifts 65mm which is nowhere near high enough to place the balance plates under the wheels or stands under the chassis, so twas a complete waste of money again
pulsar caliper service kit arrived, removed the calipers to service n paint
to try stop all the fluids leaking out, I tightened some washers between the hose opening (this didn't work cos next day the floor was soaked with brake fluid and reservoir was drained empty so had to rebleed the whole system)
all disassembled, wirebrushed
sprayed black
overhauled with new seals and proper rubber grease
installed & bled
during bleeding I noticed that the pedal hits the end just below the throttle pedal so this explains why on track I had to double pump the brakes to get em to work fully because the master cylinder is too undersized n ran outa travel. so this non-abs k11 M/C i brought off chris is another wasted purchase.
need to buy a primera M/C then
too wet to corner balance so will do it tomorrow in time for cadwell on friday.
problem is the tip is too high and too small to safely jack from under the wishbone bush
so I cut the adjustable tip end off and noticed I could just slip the threaded hole over the 14mm bolt to keep it located
like this but then realised the tiny jack only lifts 65mm which is nowhere near high enough to place the balance plates under the wheels or stands under the chassis, so twas a complete waste of money again
pulsar caliper service kit arrived, removed the calipers to service n paint
to try stop all the fluids leaking out, I tightened some washers between the hose opening (this didn't work cos next day the floor was soaked with brake fluid and reservoir was drained empty so had to rebleed the whole system)
all disassembled, wirebrushed
sprayed black
overhauled with new seals and proper rubber grease
installed & bled
during bleeding I noticed that the pedal hits the end just below the throttle pedal so this explains why on track I had to double pump the brakes to get em to work fully because the master cylinder is too undersized n ran outa travel. so this non-abs k11 M/C i brought off chris is another wasted purchase.
need to buy a primera M/C then
too wet to corner balance so will do it tomorrow in time for cadwell on friday.
Got a primera m/c sat here Paul
Does the primera MC bolt to a k11? And is it p10 or p11?
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SirChris
Educated Bodger
How manyGot a primera m/c sat here Paul
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pollyp
Club Member
Got a primera m/c sat here Paul
check it out on friday morning
neone want the non-abs K11 master?
Between 7:30 and 8:30 ain't it?
Either way it's an early start
Same time again for Blyton too
Info I got here says 7:30 - 9.:00 am sign on for Blyton
check it out on friday morning
neone want the non-abs K11 master?
There's always the skyline MS Paul. I think that's what we worked out mine was and it stops a treat every time
I remember this
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pollyp
Club Member
what bout the pulsar GTIR MS itself that was for these calipers? are the bulkhead stud holes standardised to fit?
dunno which cylinder to go for.
obviously no bigger capacity than the original GTIR MS otherwise it'll be too hard to apply.
that's what the pdf says
dunno which cylinder to go for.
obviously no bigger capacity than the original GTIR MS otherwise it'll be too hard to apply.
that's what the pdf says
2 years with a skyline MS the same brakes as you Paul mine stops on a dime with the original servo with no more effort than a standard MS would take. No travel increase just decent brakes and a lot of late braking
23.81 bore
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pollyp
Club Member
began corner balancing with the new 595rs-r, all pumped to 3bars, all at 5.5mm tread.
noticed that bouncing the car from each corner to settle the dampers were giving different readings from the way the seals n bushes were sticking slightly so figured I'll bounce and measure from each corner and take an average.
Bounce from FR (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 288.3kg - 105mm - 70mm
RR 173.9kg - 101mm - 71mm
RL 178.6kg - 101mm - 73mm
FL 288.0kg - 102mm - 69mm
Bounce from RR (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 282.4kg - 105mm - 70mm
RR 180.7kg - 99mm - 71mm
RL 171.9kg - 101mm - 73mm
FL 294.2kg - 104mm - 69mm
Bounce from RL (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 291.1kg - 108mm - 70mm
RR 171.0kg - 101mm - 71mm
RL 181.9kg - 99mm - 73mm
FL 285.8kg - 102mm - 69mm
Bounce from FL (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 285.9kg - 104mm - 70mm
RR 176.6kg - 100mm - 71mm
RL 175.7kg - 100mm - 73mm
FL 291.4kg - 102mm - 69mm
now lets average the readings n now its near enough balanced, no need to to adjust
FR 286.9kg
RR 175.6kg
RL 177.0kg
FL 289.6kg
checked the alignment.
rear wheels were reading at 29/33mm left/right, pointing to the right. corrected em to 31/31mm.
front wheels were at 25/25mm (zero toe is at 41mm) so there's alot of toe out. corrected to 41/41mm dead straight. camber was -1deg
ready for friday
noticed that bouncing the car from each corner to settle the dampers were giving different readings from the way the seals n bushes were sticking slightly so figured I'll bounce and measure from each corner and take an average.
Bounce from FR (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 288.3kg - 105mm - 70mm
RR 173.9kg - 101mm - 71mm
RL 178.6kg - 101mm - 73mm
FL 288.0kg - 102mm - 69mm
Bounce from RR (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 282.4kg - 105mm - 70mm
RR 180.7kg - 99mm - 71mm
RL 171.9kg - 101mm - 73mm
FL 294.2kg - 104mm - 69mm
Bounce from RL (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 291.1kg - 108mm - 70mm
RR 171.0kg - 101mm - 71mm
RL 181.9kg - 99mm - 73mm
FL 285.8kg - 102mm - 69mm
Bounce from FL (load - arch to rim - floor to rim)
FR 285.9kg - 104mm - 70mm
RR 176.6kg - 100mm - 71mm
RL 175.7kg - 100mm - 73mm
FL 291.4kg - 102mm - 69mm
now lets average the readings n now its near enough balanced, no need to to adjust
FR 286.9kg
RR 175.6kg
RL 177.0kg
FL 289.6kg
checked the alignment.
rear wheels were reading at 29/33mm left/right, pointing to the right. corrected em to 31/31mm.
front wheels were at 25/25mm (zero toe is at 41mm) so there's alot of toe out. corrected to 41/41mm dead straight. camber was -1deg
ready for friday
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pollyp
Club Member
thought you were just going passenger at cadwell and blyton on sunday?
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pollyp
Club Member
I just hand em the keys.
if it was in neutral during offset braking, it's no different to me just spinning the one wheel off the ground which would be running just against the preload ring and there's not much preload tbh so the worst that'll happen is just wear on the plates.
the clamping force on the lsd plates mostly comes from the torque applied on the ramps from the drivetrain against the free-wheeling ashtray on one side of the pack and the preload ring on the other side.
I think this fracture of the preload ring is prob caused by overloading and fatigue of the ring. too much torque on a daily driver perhaps?
Mine's a properly booked track day on Sunday, hence my panic to get it ready
Both me and Colin will be there, along with a few others who want a passenger ride in H701
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