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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
mind playing tricks again tday. installed the injectors but was about to fit the vacuum lines when I thought, where the heck are they?
I looked in my parts shelf n all over the garage n house n car and frustratingly nothing. I thought I'd keep all the turbo bits n lines etc together n sure I haven't chucked it out during the recent garage clean up.

since its getting late, decided to try goto stores n buy some lines & t-joints.
halfords was shut so went to local generic store n got some £3 t-hose, then went to b&q to look for any 5mm rubber hose, none.
the only nearest thing was a spool of 4mm thin sprinkler hose, it's too small for the t-hose but figure I could prob heat it and stretch it over the joint but the downside is it costs £11:eek: ouch

so softened the hose n pushed it over the t-joint.

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was about to fit em n was just checking the inlet pipe in storage when I suddenly realised Oh hang on there whats this under the stack of stuff?
Oh FFS brain! :rolleyes:

whats happened was that when I was having a big garage cleanout n organising stuff, I put all the turbo stuff into a tub then a wooden panel over that and the rest of the car stuff on top and totally forgotten about the tub.
so behold all the turbo stuff including the missing vacuum hoses were still in this tub and I had just wasted all afternoon and £15 on a useless expensive hose :confused:
brain showing its age.

rebuilt fuel rail on

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removed the stock manifold and the cheap mismatched gaskets had peeled apart n left a residue, good thing I brought the spare gasket off ebay.
scraped the head clean, trimmed & fitted the new stainless studs

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turbo on

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
intake, alternator and exhaust on.
the bashed out old decat has a jaggy rough inside so found a 2" pipe to squeeze inside to provide a smooth path

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it just about fits but is a tight tolerance

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so cut a slot to allow the pipe to be squeezed into the decat

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after cutting, it springs back out so squeezed it together in a vice

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slot the old cat over it

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pipe fully inserted to give a smooth lining

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car all assembled

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primed oil through the turbo, primed the fresh injectors, uploaded turbo map, started her up.
O2 warmed up but kept saying Rich. I rev to 3k whilst cold but still not learning n staying rich (perhaps it doesn't learn below a certain cold temp), big spray of black wet soot at everything behind the exhaust.

drove out the garage and now it learns and afr goes closed loop, good.
turbo abit sluggish initially cos the oil is still cold n thick. once fully warm n thin it's more responsive.

although the 370cc are naturally quite clicky, it seems abit quieter than before. it doesn't have as much of that cold "piston slap" type noise and runs alot smoother.

when I push it, she only goes to 9psi instead of 10psi? I applied 1.5 turns of preload on the WG arm, perhaps that's too tight n making it open too early? gonna have to access and loosen the arm somehow.

power delivery is smooth n torquey. AFR at 10.2 same as before I think.

at warm prolonged idle I believe she no longer coughs now and sounds much quieter n smooth :)

needs abit of tweaking but overall I'd say cleaning injectors has improved how she runs
 
Paul please make a simple bracket to support the weight of that MAF and give your TB hose a break
I honestly believe it will help no end, especially at Blyton where its quite rough on the old surface
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Fab.
Are u free on sat cos now that the turbos on, I could pop down to swap the tyres n try the lower strut brace.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok I've been driving the turbo setup with the cleaned injectors to work and and this is what I noticed:

Strong consistant cold fire up
The cold engine now fires up immediately and willingly.

Quieter cold operation
Previously when setting off during cold start the injectors used to be very clicky loud which I thought was loose piston slap.
Now with cleaned injectors the clicking operation is alot more subtle but much quieter overall and no piston slap noise.

No warm idle coughing

When the engines warmed up, it no longer misfires/cough randomly.

No lean out during cold light acceleration

Previously whenever I accelerate lightly in low gear leaving work whilst the engines still cold within bout 30C the AFR would lean-out badly above 2k and have to either apply more throttle or shift up.
Now the AFR stays very consistant where it should be (13afr during cold enrichment before quickly going closed loop).

Progressive low speed injector cutoff/resume
In traffic, lightly using the throttle crawling along in 1st/2nd gear used to feel like a sudden on/off switch but now the way the injectors cut and resume firing is much more progressive n smooth so less jolting.

Less engine vibration

With all the injectors running up to spec and equally, there is a big reduction in engine vibration. the steering wheel no longer shakes! like mad during idle and the worn brake pedal hardly vibrates or rattles at speed anymore.

happy with all that, thx injectortune.co.uk well worth the £57 service :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
What is the maximum safe boost levels to a t28 hybrid
dunno. it came as 10psi and I'd like to keep it at this safe proven level, don't fancy ruining the turbo.

for optimum operating range, I've read it's recommended to look up the compressor chart of the turbo for the sweet spot.
too low and it'll be inefficient, sluggish and under-used.
too high and efficiency plummets and just heats the air with no further benefit causing more issues and wears it out faster.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I recalled from this video that I previously applied 3 turns of WG preload to reach 10psi


whereas recently I only applied 1.5 turns cos didn't remember the setting and so only getting 9psi.
so I'll have to access the tight spot behind the turbo (or prob take it out) and readjust to 3 turns.

also found this helpful video for adjusting the WG

 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
dunno. it came as 10psi and I'd like to keep it at this safe proven level, don't fancy ruining the turbo.

for optimum operating range, I've read it's recommended to look up the compressor chart of the turbo for the sweet spot.
too low and it'll be inefficient, sluggish and under-used.
too high and efficiency plummets and just heats the air with no further benefit causing more issues and wears it out faster.
This sound like the performance I want. Safe levels at around 10psi
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
according to the original turbo kit ebay listing it says T2/T28 garrett hybrid.
a T2 compressor end with a T28 exhaust end.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
clutch felt abit stiff n resistive, found the big nut spacer I put on the end slips offset and making the cable rub on the side

IMAG1329.jpg


so cut an end off an old socket to fit in the gap between the cable end and the support mount to take up the slack and keep it centered & straight. also removed the pedal spring but tbh the clutch is still the same weight but just feels abit squidgey cos the pedal bracket is still flexing alot

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another issue on the way home, intermittant wiper stopped working and the wiper just stops mid way. removed the motor

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dremelled the rivets off and there's the problem. the outer contact finger has totally worn out till it lost connection so the controller had no idea when to stop

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bent the finger abit closer as a temp fix, need to replace it.
to refit the cover, nissan conveniently provided a small hole next to the rivets to be drilled n tapped

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fitted and all working again.

looked on ebay and ordered a used motor off a facelift for £7.50 delivered :cool:

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Didn't realise how different the T2 exhaust flange was to a T28... why not make them all the same bolt pattern :/
Either way Paul.. your turbo works well :)

Also on the pedals. I have an interesting development that may or may not have some physical form during your visit you can ponder over :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Didn't realise how different the T2 exhaust flange was to a T28... why not make them all the same bolt pattern :/
Either way Paul.. your turbo works well :)

Also on the pedals. I have an interesting development that may or may not have some physical form during your visit you can ponder over :)
yup turbo works for now, tis good to finally find an affordable source for a new fresh turbo if it decided to fail or I felt like impulse buying once income improves :p

ooh always looking forward to ur surprises when I pop over.
I just brought afew things off chris recently while he's breaking his 4 k11, including all the pedals, non-abs brake servo & pipes, ht leads, bonnet hinge & hub/strut nuts

according to alexias post it may snow in Nov? it better not during our trackday although it's getting chilly now :/
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
found my turbo spec.

remember my actuator plate said turbo technics part # S116



and on their website its a S116 Renault 5 GT Turbo Stage 1

http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s116.htm

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The S116 utilises the standard T2 unit but is supplied with a larger compressor wheel and housing, to increase power, and is matched to a larger turbine housing which will increase flow, with minimal effecting on spool up times. A fully screwed down 270 degree thrust bearing is used, enabling higher boost applications, while helping to keep costs down. The unit comes supplied with a dynamic seal to help improve response, and an uprated actuator means this unit will safely run up to 13PSI. With minimal engine and fuel modifications, this turbo will flow enough for up to 150BHP maximum.
and their pdf catalogue says

Renault 5 GT turbo stage 1 hybrid
1987-1990
T2 with 60 trim / 0.47
rated 130-150bhp (so I'm running at it's limit)
watercooled
 
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SirChris

Educated Bodger
Its usually a t2 ex and larger compressor Paul. Turbo technics is my choice for turbo replacement in the future. Been looking at the stage 2 gtturbo or the standard t25/28. T2 variant gives that fun kick in the teeth feeling. They haven't replied to my emails though. :(
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
found my turbo spec.

remember my actuator plate said turbo technics part # S116



and on their website its a S116 Renault 5 GT Turbo Stage 1

http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s116.htm

View attachment 35913



and their pdf catalogue says

Renault 5 GT turbo stage 1 hybrid
1987-1990
T2 with 60 trim / 0.47
rated 130-150bhp (so I'm running at it's limit)
watercooled
Lol my t2 is still boosting with 3mm+- play on the shaft... I call my turbo... "The Grenade"
 
yup turbo works for now, tis good to finally find an affordable source for a new fresh turbo if it decided to fail or I felt like impulse buying once income improves :p

ooh always looking forward to ur surprises when I pop over.
I just brought afew things off chris recently while he's breaking his 4 k11, including all the pedals, non-abs brake servo & pipes, ht leads, bonnet hinge & hub/strut nuts

according to alexias post it may snow in Nov? it better not during our trackday although it's getting chilly now :/
Impulse buys are my weak point :p

Hopefully I have something mocked up for you to look at. Like you say there's always something here :D

Yes apparently so. And heavy snowfall at that but people have noticed its near on identical released the same day as last year
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Impulse buys are my weak point :p

Hopefully I have something mocked up for you to look at. Like you say there's always something here :D

Yes apparently so. And heavy snowfall at that but people have noticed its near on identical released the same day as last year
see ya on saturday with new tyres.

bah I was hoping to get to push this new stronger setup this year on a dry hot track. goodbye summer :(
she had a chance at cadwell but literally "blew it" under pressure (getit :p)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
received new bits from chris tday. thanks chris :cool:

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non ABS servo. question, does anyone know how to seperate the fluid tank from the MS?

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newer pedals

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bonnet hinges to replace the current nut & bolt

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new leads. compared the resistances with the old one: (cyl #1, #2, #3, #4)
old set: 2.17 2.42 3.26 3.43ohms
new set: 2.22 2.50 3.35 3.62ohms

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brake lines

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only have one hub/strut nut bolt, forgot to mention I needed all 4 nuts but meh, ain't needed yet.
 
see ya on saturday with new tyres.

bah I was hoping to get to push this new stronger setup this year on a dry hot track. goodbye summer :(
she had a chance at cadwell but literally "blew it" under pressure (getit :p)
There's always next year, even the refresh of the injectors is a step in the right direction ready for next years summer :)
I'll be here Saturday, ready n waiting, see what we can and cant do :)
 
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