There's always next year, even the refresh of the injectors is a step in the right direction ready for next years summer
I'll be here Saturday, ready n waiting, see what we can and cant do
I was just linking that to you hahafound this video, looks simples
We have November, I'm all booked n paid up for Blyton, so it should be good fun, wonder what circuit they'll use for the daythe fresh injectors a big improvement in consistancy. summers too far away, wannit now
We have November, I'm all booked n paid up for Blyton, so it should be good fun, wonder what circuit they'll use for the day
Literally pull it off Paul.received new bits from chris tday. thanks chris
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non ABS servo. question, does anyone know how to seperate the fluid tank from the MS?
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bonnet hinges to replace the current nut & bolt
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new leads. compared the resistances with the old one: (cyl #1, #2, #3, #4)
old set: 2.17 2.42 3.26 3.43ohms
new set: 2.22 2.50 3.35 3.62ohms
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only have one hub/strut nut bolt, forgot to mention I needed all 4 nuts but meh, ain't needed yet.
Look at some sprint videos there's plenty of those, there's 3 circuits they can run so I guess its case of going in blind... apart from the outer circuit, I know that wellnice. I've not been able to found a virtual track mod of it for the pc race games i have like simbin GTR or rfactor so can't familiarise with simulation beforehand. just have to watch videos n learn on the day.
Literally pull it off Paul.
BTW ur a #### Paul... I was on the phone to you and I was like... You need just one nut. U sure u don't need more or the bolts. You were like you might as well throw the bolt in, I just need one though. Silly twat. Glad it all reached you well.
I can imagine me following you both in to battle next year.
Bloody knew it wasn't right and I said its going to create too much stress. Return the clutch cable to the furthest point dude. I think I have a significantly heavier pressure plate and it was never that severe even with the previous cack clutch cable
or you could fit a clutch that does,nt strain the factory components paul ?
changing clutch is out the question.
this has been the only clutch (and a very expensive one) to reliably handle this torque as a daily with occasional track abuse. ain't got the funds or energy to explore any further when this works perfectly at the mo.
the main cause for all this issue is a dirty sticky thrust bearing collar grease.
I tried copper grease and graphite powder and all seem to eventually gunge up with dirt n dust into this thick paste which strains the entire clutch mechanism.
when it began to slowly get harder n harder I just ignored n got used to the strain over time rather than service it cos pulling the gearbox out was alot of work. now my ignorance has eventually lead to an even bigger inconvenient issue.
what'd you guys suggest as a good lube for the release bearing slider?
So why do you need bearings. Mines holding up? Is it ur short throw clutch arm which is causing the issues with its low levering force?
Its not the release bearing slider unless its caked with crap. I use a dab on the slider and when I say a dab, I mean #### all lol. Its ur cable and position of the clutch cable on the clutch release arm mate.actually you said you have changed the cable? Ur modded position of the clutch cable will lessen the lever effect meaning ur having to really force the pedal.
So thats the compromise I suppose you want that style of pedal movement so reinforcement is what's needed.
I use a lithium based multi purpose grease on my clutch realease bearing, never had issues
The pressure plate being stronger will have a large effect but my concern would be the need for more travel
Is the pressure plate taller than a standard one? I'd say that puts more load/pressure on your release bearing that burns away your grease over time?
What about the plate between gearbox n engine, do you have that?
I've always kept my splash plate on personally. Thinks that's why I don't have many crud issues with the bearing
I remember now about the whole pivot
If it was me I'd move the pedal pivot point and leave the clutch release arm the the standard point
Don't know how possible that is but its an alternative
5mm angle onto 1mm sheet should be interesting with a stick welder Paul in that tight a confinement
Personally I'd lop off the old bracket, weld another piece of sheet on the other side of the bulkhead (if plausible) that should stop hole blowing and help with the reinforcement