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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the staining appears when i leave it in tub for awhile and then take em out.
aways rinsed it out under tap, spray wd40, wipe dry then oiled with 10w40
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
oooooh that washing machine powders got a little power still-how much will it affect?
like when you had the cuts in the hand-it gives that nice feeling using it:laugh:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
oooooh that washing machine powders got a little power still-how much will it affect?
like when you had the cuts in the hand-it gives that nice feeling using it:laugh:
i'm wearing vinyl groves here, brought pack of 100 for fiver, so no dirty hands or cut fingers. though when i tried wash powder at sulurs with couple of scuffed knuckles n fingers it stings like heck:doh:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
took apart the oil pump

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cleaned

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assembled

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fit rear crank seal

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dunk sump in tub of persil

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nice n clean

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work on the head next
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey does anyone know if PTFE sheet of 5mm thick will be ok to withstand the temps between the engine block & inlet manifold?

i was thinking of buying a sheet of 5mm ptfe and make an insulating spacer gasket for the inlet manifold to reduce inlet temps.

wiki says ptfe melts at 327C but dunno if the block will reach that and melt it under heat soak

or maybe use rubber sheet?
 

frank

Club Member
i used 3 gaskets on mine paul, and i think any non-thermosetting plastic will soften with heat
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
valves taken out

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head is washed

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dremeled grooves on an old plug to tap n clean the sparkplug holes

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washed valves

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to clean the baked residue on the valve head i spun the valves on a pillar drill and lathe with a blade & scorch pad

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valves fitted

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
head bolted up. will need to install new HG when the engines needed.

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cams on

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oil pickup on

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fitted the turbo drain plug

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blank off the un-used port at back with nut & bolt

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wirebrushed the dizzy mount top bracket

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engines pretty much complete, moved out the way and move on to the gearbox

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remove endplate & washers

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reverse gear switch

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alot of metal bits on the plug suggests there's been quite abit of gear crunching

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casing unbolted

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bash from around the edges of the casing to free it from the locating dowels & sealant then lift the case up. something inside prevented the case from being lifted straight up but finally managed by lifting and tilting the case

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this is what was catching. the upper shaft support on the casing for the reverse gear cog catches on the Topgear selector fork therefore ya tilt the casing to clear the fork

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pull out the long shaft that all the selector forks pivot on then remove the topgear fork

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3-4th fork and 1-2nd fork

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heres the selector shaft. notice the ball & spring at the end of the shaft on the left, this is what holds the selector in gear

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pull out the reverse gear shaft & cog to access the retaining bracket

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unbolt the retaining bracket

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then lift out both gears

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followed by the differential

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empty gearbox. need to figure how to remove the selector arm and clutch arm from the case. seems to be held on by spring pins

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heres the neutral switch which seems to have been snapped off

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the previous block of wood above the silencer fell out so the exhaust was banging about. so sawed afew more wood and ziptied em to the box. the rubber hangers were also abit tired so afew more zipties. the box is now rigidly fixed to the chassis, no more banging around.

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the clutch fork and gear selector seems to be secured by 2 roll pins inside one another so i grab some nails of similar size, cut & file the tip flat then gradually hammer the pin through

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selector rod seperated

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clutch fork off

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heres the dirty empty case

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the 5th/reverse return spring housing needed a good twist & bash to loosen off

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clean n inspect the gears

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primary input shaft

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secondary shaft

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1st gear

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2nd gear

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3rd gear

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4th gear

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top gear

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case all washed n wiped down :) Mmmm

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clean & install the 5th/reverse return spring

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First time posting in your blog PollyP and i have to say WOW your attention to detail is amazing (Y) Keep up the good work.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wirebrushed selector arm

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clutch arm

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and clutch fork

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fit selector arm to shaft

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selector reinstalled

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fit diff & gears

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heres the selector mechanism

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selector fork

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fitted selector mechanism & 1st fork

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reverse cog

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2nd & 3rd selector forks

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cleaned the other casing

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apply sealant

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bolted up

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clutch fork installed

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sealed & stored

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r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
did you see any damage on any gears/mesh thingy
and in dificulty how high would you place this strip down rebuild?
thanks
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the gearbox is like new, not much wear.

stripping the box was easier than i thought. as long as ur methodical, organised, take reference pics, pay attention to details & cleanliness its like taking a bike apart.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the ziptied back box is vibrating like mad at certain low revs, prob the wood blocks. recheck it later
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
took apart the thermostat housing, tis abit gunged up but seems fine once wiped. won't be needing the housing as one of the hose outlets is chipped but the stock thermostat is a keeper

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wirebrushed the alternator belt tensioner

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brushed the coolant return pipe

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couple bits wont be needing and put in buy&sell

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alternator with plug type connector rather than hook end connectors on mine. but dunno if one of the plug terminal pins broken off or if its suppose to be like that? (ie. the bolt-on connector bit is -ve ground while the one-pin terminal plug is +ve) or is it broke and bin it?

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wirebrushed the exhaust

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disassembled the janspeed manifold. prob sell it once turbo is on

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taking the dizzy apart. cap islittle cracked n seized screws snapped off

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rotor off

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remove hall sensor disc

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hall sensor unit

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tried taking it apart inside but seems the circuit & connectors were internally wired together and so pry it apart wrecked it, meh

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inductor coils

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remove bearing from shaft

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i think thats almost everything cleaned. now to research into gauges, bov/recirc valves, boost control
 
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Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
Looking awesome! the offer is still there if you wanna come do mine... :grinning:
Would new exhaust rubbers make the problem go away?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Looking awesome! the offer is still there if you wanna come do mine... :grinning:
Would new exhaust rubbers make the problem go away?
to clean urs? i've almost had enough of scrubbing & rebuilding the engine & gearbox, lotsa labour

yeah the rubbers are abit tired n soft n need replacing with stuffer hangers
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
messaged the seller bout the quoted 12kg/6kg f/r springs and replied that it was a typo and i'll be sent 5kg/4kg f/r springs
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just comparing rear engine mounts, heres the rear mount from the 1.3 turbo'd engine, which is the same as the blue micras original mount

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and heres one i grabbed from scrappy during the grey/blue micra rebuild which didn't fit, twas the same as the grey micras original mount that pushed the engine too far forward

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there's a clear 10-20mm height difference. both of the rubber inserts are the same number and design, its just the metal mount thats changed.
thinking bout it, the scrapyard rubber mount and the mount bracket that didn't fit correctly (ie still pushed the engine too far forward) was prob from a 1L and i didn't know back then cos i was just checking the rubber insert numbers and thought oh, same number as the correct fitting blue micras mount so they must be the same. apparantly not

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i feel my current engine mounts shifting abit when on/off power at low revs, not good for solid janspeed manifold, so wash cleaned the spare turbo engines rear mount

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taped one end

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and carefully filled with PU sealant

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says it cures from humidity. plonked it on top of combi boiler for next few days
 
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baguete

Site Supporter
1.0 rear engine mount turns the engine to the front, me and a friend tryed it some weeks ago, as his 1.3 mount was knackered and we tryed a 1.0 mount, and it didnt fit right...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was changing my parents pug 307 discs n pads as they're running thin. what a ball ache of a car to work on :doh: they don't use any usual size bolts or torx heads so had to go buy so new ones and the rear caliper piston doesn't twist n retract easily with some nose pliers like on mine, it just keeps spinninggrr gonna have to go buy a £50 caliper piston rewind tool tomorrow just for this car, if theres any shop that has any and is open. damn french cars
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
love the sealant move!! filled in all them original holes in the rubbers making it stiffer
what are they playing at these french ones?sounds nightmare'sh
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
had to 20miles to halfords in durham this morning to get this £32 caliper rewind tool. twas ####ing down like mad all day which doesn't make it comfy getting wet in garage.

tis a handy tool but didn't work first time cos the plate that braces against the inner side of the caliper was too wide n flat n touching the edges of the caliper therefore the tools axis is offset to the caliper piston and jamming every so often.

so i angle grinded the thing to remove some of the corner edge till it all fits into the caliper cavity and with both axis aligned it works abit better.

both rear disc n pads replaced. taking the front left disc off, why did they use such small torx screw to hold the disc to the hub, which is bound to seize and round off the head, even after some blow torching n soaking in oil. so had to drill the screw out. sorted the front brakes and by chance in my box of screws n bolts i found a pair of countersunk metric flat head screws that match the damaged torx screws:grinning: pays off to keep all ur nuts bolts screws etc in boxes

so brakes replaced, took it out country to bed in during the rain. stock brakes warm up quick but then during bedding they easily overheat n go squishy. cooled down on motorway and feels normal now but may bleed the fluid again to be sure.

mom gave me another £30 on top of covering parts/tools cost for labour, neat :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the PU filled engine mount was half curing, so i carefully pelled the tape off to let air humidity cure the other side

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the sealant still seems to be squishy inside after fews day on top of radiator.
even drilled couple holes to let air in but drill bit just gets covered in wet sealant every time

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i'll just fit it n try one day

better use 2-pack mix next time
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok after several days on the radiator and couple drillled holes, the sealant seems to have cured now. will fit it soon
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
BC coilovers still hasn't arrived ffs. rang the guy and he says he's waiting on the next shipment to arrive from BC which has been delayed but estimates he'll get it by mon and deliver to me by tues :mad: thats what he said last time i enquired bout it before ordering.
it'll be over a week since i ordered and his ebay list says est 2-3 days plus his stated springrates is wrong. do i point this out to ebay or just leave it?
 
it'll be over a week since i ordered and his ebay list says est 2-3 days plus his stated springrates is wrong. do i point this out to ebay or just leave it?
Did you point this out to him and he still didn't fix it? If so, yeah, and if not, I'd point it out to him in a "by the way" message now and if it's not fixed by Tuesday and the gear hasn't arrived follow it (or both issues) up with eBay.
He could be a dodgy manipulator or just lazy/forgetful :laugh:
 
BC coilovers still hasn't arrived ffs. rang the guy and he says he's waiting on the next shipment to arrive from BC which has been delayed but estimates he'll get it by mon and deliver to me by tuesgrr thats what he said last time i enquired bout it before ordering.
it'll be over a week since i ordered and his ebay list says est 2-3 days plus his stated springrates is wrong. do i point this out to ebay or just leave it?
mate, dont leave it. this is something i hate. why do they sell some stuff without having it? specially on ebay. report that ####### and get them from somewhere else.(Y)

edit: http://www.h-dev.co.uk/index.php?cPath=78_169_297_1036&osCsid=98e8fc6fc6b9dd92b8d68f0811c9914f
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
it seems as though he sends order to BC on a weekly batch basis. why the heck would he state 2-3days if he only orders his stock per week? will call em on mon afternoon to check he definately received stock and dispatched my order. if not, its a notice to ebay for mis-description & poor service.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
took out the old rear mount n beam

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no wonder the gearstick moves abit at low speed, the rear mount is almost wasted

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change to the janspeed manifold while i'm there

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good to feel the top end power again. the gear stick movement at low speed on/off throttle has def reduced now

went to scrapyard to get a recirc valve found from saab 900 and micra aircon alternator bracket

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r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
that and a funny clutch done me over recently
low revs-car jerking-----i was thinking throttle body but you have cracked it their
 
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