Please help

frank said:
i saw that coming :)
there are a few threads concerning changing the cross member mate, you will have to drill and chisel yours off, and you will need the n/s headlamp panel and slam panel anyway (so buy the ebay one)
Click to expand...
Hi frank,

Spent most of the drilling and banging to remove the cross member. Both end is separated but area where headlights panels connect to cross member is still to be done.

I think I am not going to remove the headlight panel because its too much work.

I will buy the cross member alone.

What do you think?

The other question is that they are advertised to fit 92-98 and 98-03. Which one will fit on mine?

Regards
 
all the crossmembers are the same mate, but i doubt if you will get that n/s headlight to line up without changing the panel personally
 
frank said:
all the crossmembers are the same mate, but i doubt if you will get that n/s headlight to line up without changing the panel personally
Click to expand...
Thanks frank,

I see what you mean. I will try without it first if not than I will buy the panel separately.

Regards
 
frank said:
all the crossmembers are the same mate, but i doubt if you will get that n/s headlight to line up without changing the panel personally
Click to expand...
Hi Frank,

Finally I have succeeded in removing the cross member and here is the video. Some questions please:

1. I noticed there is rip on caliper, is okay to use or not? (0:46 minutes of video onwards)
2. How to removed the stuff that is connected to the engine support? Is it spring loaded?
3. Can power string fluid be reused?

Your advice is really appreciated.

Regards
 
the caliper will be ok if the piston still moves ok hakim, and you just remove all the bolts and the support bar will drop down, and best fill with fresh fluid mate :)
 
frank said:
the caliper will be ok if the piston still moves ok hakim, and you just remove all the bolts and the support bar will drop down, and best fill with fresh fluid mate :)
Click to expand...
Very many thanks frank,

Since I don't the welding equipment, I have to take it to a garage. If I put fresh fluid now, I have to do it again in the garage! I was thinking to reuse now and put fresh one after the welding finish.

Regards
 
frank said:
the caliper will be ok if the piston still moves ok hakim, and you just remove all the bolts and the support bar will drop down, and best fill with fresh fluid mate :)
Click to expand...
Thanks frank,

I tried to move the piston with a screw driver it did move little and some fluid start pouring from the pipe, but there is a small cut/rip on that rubber cover. There is no leakage there. Will it prevent any dust to get in? Is it possible for dust to get in from there or the who/rip/cut is superficial?

The read end of engine support bar is connect to the engine, I think, and that same area an other bar which comes from rear end of the car is connected. It is quite difficult to open.! I have double checked the one I bought and it looks a bit wobbly/springy.

What is that bar? Is that rubber fittings needs to be changed? Does it have a spring or its the rubber that makes it spring?

Regards
 
there is 1 long bolt through the mount and rod, and 2 bolts into the floor at the back eh
the preface 1.0 one is a different shape, and once the brakes are fitted and set, dab some sealer onto that little tear
 
frank said:
there is 1 long bolt through the mount and rod, and 2 bolts into the floor at the back eh
the preface 1.0 one is a different shape, and once the brakes are fitted and set, dab some sealer onto that little tear
Click to expand...
Very many thanks Frank,

I have removed the engine support bar. But there is a slight problem with putting the new one. One of the bolts is half way through but needs force. I did some force, but removed it and used the other bolt still the same. The one was quite easy all the way to the end.

Will it get damaged if tighten it by force?

The 2nd problem is, one of the bolts from the Bonnet is very tight. I have used some force to open it with open ended spanner, but the end of it is now miss-shape and now I am stuck :-(

Any suggestions please!

Regards
 
if you force the member bolts too much the captive nut can shear off hakim ! and you have to cut a flap in the floorpan to access it.
its probably cross threaded, so you may need to run a tap through the thread (bear in mind some k11 chassis bolts are metric fine)
and ring spanners and 6 point sockets butcher the bolts less than open ended
 
frank said:
if you force the member bolts too much the captive nut can shear off hakim ! and you have to cut a flap in the floorpan to access it.
its probably cross threaded, so you may need to run a tap through the thread (bear in mind some k11 chassis bolts are metric fine)
and ring spanners and 6 point sockets butcher the bolts less than open ended
Click to expand...
Thank a bunch frank,

Do you mean the bolt or the captive nut is cross threaded?

I hear both bolts with same result. And both bolts were okay with other one.

1. Will one round of tape or shall I do more?

2. Will the normal black tape do or shall I one those white/fine plumbers tape?

Regards
 
Hazara your best to buy you own tools you never know when you'll need them, but remember you get what you pay for so buy the best you can
 
karlj said:
Hazara your best to buy you own tools you never know when you'll need them, but remember you get what you pay for so buy the best you can
Click to expand...
Thanks karlj for the advice,

The fact is I am trying to keep the budget to the minimum. As it is the moment I am over spending already!

Regards
 
frank said:
reusable mate :) (if you dont break it :D)
Click to expand...
Hi Frank,

I have received the headlight and put it on. Here is the video. Do you think I have to buy the cross member with headlight panel or without?

A second question: when I was putting the screen wash reservoir back on, I have noticed that one of the outlasts is sort blocked. Water was pouring out of one but not the other. I had that long time ago that screen was was not working on the rear window. It is the same on both of my cars, the rear windows screen do not work!

Is it a blocked pipe or is it the motor or what? How to fix it?

Please advise.

Regards
 
frank said:
you would get better gaps i suppose mate, it depends how fussy you are :)
Click to expand...
Very many thanks frank,

I am not very fussy, :)

I found this and it really confused me. First there are several different types i.e. Taper tap, second tap, plug tap etc. On the top of that, I am confused about the diameter and the pitch!

Are you sure it is a metric fine 10 tap?
What about the pitch i.e the 2nd number of the x?

Regards
 
there are various metric fine,s mate, you will need to measure your bolt really, so if you count 10 threads within 10mm, then the pitch is 1mm.
and a plug tap is only needed for tapping a blind hole (a hole that has a bottom :) )
 
frank said:
there are various metric fine,s mate, you will need to measure your bolt really, so if you count 10 threads within 10mm, then the pitch is 1mm.
and a plug tap is only needed for tapping a blind hole (a hole that has a bottom :) )
Click to expand...
Very many thanks frank,

The tapes do they come with the handle or do I have to buy the handles separately?

Regards
 
frank said:
they have a square end hakim, a pair of molegrips would suffice :)
Click to expand...
Very many thanks,

Now I do the name of a tool I was using the other day and did not know the name (molegrips).

I don't remember if read some where or some one told me that "if you learn one thing a day that makes 365 things in a year". So my learning curve is quite good. :)

By the way is this molegrips?
Regards
 
frank said:
you will need to slit near the top mate, on the sharp fold/kink about 3" deep i guess :)
Click to expand...
Thanks a bunch frank,

You mean at the right corner?

The bent is almost a C shape. From corner to corner while the back center of c is at the hole. The bent is more at the top and less towards the bottom.

Regards
 
lookin good hakim :cool: finger nails are far too clean tho :p
no they should fail it without welds (depends how well you cover it tho)
that,s a dual pump aint it (forwards for front screen, backwards for rear ?)
and 2 pack glue and/or self tappers
 
frank said:
lookin good hakim :cool: finger nails are far too clean tho :p
no they should fail it without welds (depends how well you cover it tho)
that,s a dual pump aint it (forwards for front screen, backwards for rear ?)
and 2 pack glue and/or self tappers
Click to expand...
Very many thanks frank,

I got the hang of it Now I am using gloves to protect the hands, otherwise mrs will shout :)

You mean the whole x-member should be welded or the part which is torn apart with hacksaw?

Yest its a dual pump but the rear one is not working! How to fix it?

Could not find the pitch of the bolt yet. :-( Went to tools shop and he kindly gave me his micro meter(if thats what its called) to measure the distance between two peaks of the thread. He measure 2.somethimg while my measurment was 1.16. It seems something is wrong some where with the measurement.

Called machine mart and halfords they said they don't have the equipment to the measurement and they don't sale the tap on separately, but only as set!

Please advise.


Regards
 
its more accurate to measure 10 threads mate (then divide by 10 obviously) and you should weld that cut tbh, and also weld where the spotwelds were :)
 
frank said:
its more accurate to measure 10 threads mate (then divide by 10 obviously) and you should weld that cut tbh, and also weld where the spotwelds were :)
Click to expand...
Thanks frank,

Used a tire depth gauge(could not find a ruler at home:( ) to measure, and this time its 1.2 based on measuring 10 threads. It looks like it is an M10 X1.25. I will order one from the eBay. Will this one do?

On the question of 2 pack glue, will this one do?

Regards
 

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