Need Help, Micra Dead.

pjg1979

THIS IS MY BOOMSTICK!
Hello Folkes, I know this is already in the K11 General Discussion section but I haven't had any replies, even on my blog. K11 General Discussion Thread So I thought I should post here as well as not everyone reads the K11 area if they don't own a K11.

I went to start my car for the first time in about 8-9 months, the car attempted to turn over then everything cut out, dials LCD display everything. nothing works.

I've checked the main battery fuse in the engine bay but also managed to break it as well. Even placing a screwdriver between the two connections there is still no life.
The battery has 13.99 volts in it.
Checked all the fuses that looks like there could be important.

Please help.
 
try jump starting it the battery may show good voltage but when under load it will be useless start with that first
 
Check your ignition switch works. Use a whole can of WD40 cleaning up all the connections. Check you're getting voltage at the fuse box. If you are work towards the ignition. If not then work back towards the battery.
 
I'd advise agains the WD40 in the ignition switch idea as it tends to jam the lock up! They are made of brass inside which is self lubricating. WD40 will wash all the grease out it and smoke when you turn your ignition on. It can mess up the NATS unit too if you have one.

I'd inscrew the ignition switch off the back of the lock. Stick the key in the ignition to turn the immobiliser off (if it has one) then turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver.
The plastic centre bit wears and can switch off unexpectedly. I've seen quite a few like that.

Also, you say you checked al the fuses that look important. You should check all the fuses! Even if it bares no relation to whats not working. Check all the blade fuses in the dash and engine bay then get a torch and check the bigger fuses in the engine bay.

When you measure the voltage at the battery measure it on the terminals rather than the battery posts. If you have a bad connection the battery could show up as charged but the electricity isn't getting where it should.

Finally, (least likely) connect a jump lead from the battery negative to the engine. If that works you have a broken earth somewhere.

Out of all that I'd try the ignition switch first. Its the most likely!
 
I have just tried to start my car which hasn't been done for months and the car turned over and everything went dead including LCD display.

from phils previous thread, i doubt if its the ignition switch personally fwn and with no dashlights i doubt if its a weak battery either
 
I'll check the connections from the battery again, I even disconnected the leads to look for a short or something. (Y)Thanks for all the help everyone.

The Battery is good I did actually have a powerpack connected at the same time for first start up just in case it struggled, but I have been charging the battery every 3-4 months.

I have put a connecter in the engine bay for a safe passage for the positive cable I might double check that one. Could anyone provide a picture of the Main 80A Fusebox connection, with the fuse removed so I can see what it's supposed to look like please. As I did struggle to get this out, payday on Friday so I'll be going to the scrappy for a handful of replacements.
 
from phils previous thread, i doubt if its the ignition switch personally fwn and with no dashlights i doubt if its a weak battery either

From ones I've looked at with dodgy ignition switches when you start them up and wiggle the key the whole lot dies, ignition lights and everything. The parts that wear are inside the switch, not the plastic bit the ignition lock turns.

The switch isn't hard to change and is cheap to get a replacement to try from the scrappy. Fits inside a fag packet! :laugh:

I doubt its a weak battery either as PJG said it was showing plenty volts but if the power can't get out the battery because of a bad connection it can't light the dash lights.

I can't think what one the main fuse is but isn't it marked on top of the fusebox cover? Think theres only one 80a one in there isn't there? You need to press the tab in on the side to pop it out.

I had starting problems with one because the fusebox had melted. Someone replaced the headlamp connectors with spade terminals. They began touching and melted the fusebox! It looked fine until you lifted the lid!

Now I think of it I had another with an intermittant starting problem. When you unclip/unbolt the engine bay fusebox there is a large terminal with a thick white wire. The terminals had corroded. Seem to remember the dash lights still worked on it. Still worth checking too!(Y)
 
Well, I am very shocked and it was the last thing I would have thought of, the heavy duty cable I have used (Jump Lead cable ideal for upto 3.0 ltr vehicles) has a break in it. Which I struggle to believe, I really do:suspect:.

I checked the terminal from under the bonnet and wasn't any voltage check the cable in the boot by pushing the meter probe through the cable and measured 13 volts. checked every 50cm of cable to by forcing the probe into the positive cable and just behind the passenger front seat there was nothing, double check the ground and got continuity.

(Y)Well thanks to every one who helped I'll get some more from work tomorrow and wire it in hoping this has done the trick.
 
Well, Good news nearly, ended up not being the Positive cable, just had a poo meter so borrowed one from work. It was actually the ground I was using was only tacked onto the wheel arch on the inside. Now using the seatbelt where I'm getting a good earth.

Now then, the 80a fuse in the engine bay for the majority of the electrics this is bolted in, yes thats right bolted not like the pre-facelifts where there is a push clip. I didn't know how to get to the bolts so I had to bend some plastic sections.

So the car turns over a couple of times but won't start:down:. I've got a Jump Starter on and have been charging the battery this afternoon for another go tomorrow. So fingers crossed.

:glare:If anyone has a facelift fuse box and knows how to access the 80a fuse holding bolts without damaging the Fuse Box casing feel free to let me know, lol.

PS got my Rev Counter today for Fathers day and got a ideal place for it something different. I did try the horn area on the car but it was pertruding too much, lol.:laugh:
 
Right then, this is becoming a bit of a ballache:doh:.

I've slightly slackened off the Alternator to put less strain on the starter motor. I'm beginning to think it might be the starter motor that could have seized. I'm borrowing some jump leads tomorrow for the last resort and give it a pounding then that's going to be it for about a month.:down:
 
Now thats a question and a half, if I remember rightly 50mm2 but I will confirm tomorrow. Would you reckon maybe placing directly behind passenger seat instead of rear wheel?
 
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