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NOS, found 'em on E-Bay. They are not exactly Pioneer TSX range, but they kind of fit in with the "substitute" nature of the rest of the car. Kyusha themed but not quite doing it properly.
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Mark's 1.0L
- Thread starter markbognor
- Start date
NOS, found 'em on E-Bay. They are not exactly Pioneer TSX range, but they kind of fit in with the "substitute" nature of the rest of the car. Kyusha themed but not quite doing it properly.
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I may have to consider some of these. They sound good?NOS, found 'em on E-Bay. They are not exactly Pioneer TSX range, but they kind of fit in with the "substitute" nature of the rest of the car. Kyusha themed but not quite doing it properly.
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
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20 year old, 40w per channel, budget when they were new Korean speakers? Th sound quality is what you would expect. The pair I have in the doors are far better - contemporary, but bottom of the range 16cm (I think) co-axials. I have the fader set so that the rears are low, just providing a little fill. The H/U is allegedly 50w per channel so I don't want to drive them too hard.
These:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSS-AVA-...3?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item589d5bab0b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CALIBER-3...1?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3a8059560f
are all over E-bay. Not very retro though, but more in keeping with the shape of the car.
These:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSS-AVA-...3?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item589d5bab0b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CALIBER-3...1?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3a8059560f
are all over E-bay. Not very retro though, but more in keeping with the shape of the car.
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Does fit well. Still trying to think if I will put some decent audio through the turbo or not. Am I really going to be playing the weight game,? Would be nice to have some luxury.
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
solarice
Ex. Club Member
If your car end up sounding anything like mine, you can't hear the stereo properly anyway
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I have the issue already with not being able to hear **** all. Was hoping to just over power the carIf your car end up sounding anything like mine, you can't hear the stereo properly anyway
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Problem is with my mine it is Rattle'ie and just is rather tinny.My cars loud but music can be listened to, being at crail today showed me that my car isn't all that loud compared to some cars, I only have 2 tweeters and front speakers and music is fine, if I'm alone I prefer the sound of the turbo
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
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If I was building a car for performance over comfort or aesthetics I'd be making a box with head unit (or maybe just amp) and input lead with speakers built in so that it could be lifted out as one unit - with a small 12v battery to power it - and perhaps even a socket to the car to keep it charged. There's no reason it should't have external speaker connections to the doors - but that's extra weight to carry on track or strip. I've seen quite a few made into old suitcases or ammo boxes in rod and retros. Great for the paddock or camping at events too.
solarice
Ex. Club Member
My cars loud but music can be listened to, being at crail today showed me that my car isn't all that loud compared to some cars, I only have 2 tweeters and front speakers and music is fine, if I'm alone I prefer the sound of the turbo
Yeah i can listen to it if i turn it up a bit, well either cassettes (oh yes) or my mp3 player...radio was useless before and its even worse now the aerial is in a box somewhere. Like you, i prefer to hear what the engines doing.
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A couple from some more accomplished snappers...
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Not unless the stance fairies have rocked up in the middle of the night with their grinders and welders. I think it must just be the angle of the road surface rlative to the position of the body and front wheels.
Cheers, I'm really feeling the trims - I'm still not a huge fan of the Wellers though, so if anybody with some wide thirteens of a zero-ish ofset were wanting a swap I'd be all ears.
Cheers, I'm really feeling the trims - I'm still not a huge fan of the Wellers though, so if anybody with some wide thirteens of a zero-ish ofset were wanting a swap I'd be all ears.
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Shopping Trolley,
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Just recently I've been having this cutting out problem. Simple things were tried first, dizzycap and rotor arm, new plugs and a fuel and air filters went on, long overdue! The problem persisted so things got a bit more drastic.
I still had the LX parked up at my nans, so set about removing the distributor. Anoyingly one of the small screws that hold the cap on sheared off in the dizzy body. Humph.
So I decided the next best option was to remove the coil from the thought good one. I also switched the optical sensor over as well - so bar the body, it essecially has the dizzy from the LX (which was running perfectly when I bent it) This job went pretty smoothly and a run this afternoon, combined with leaving it ticking over to get really hot, switching off restarting and driving again (all of which combined have brought on the symptoms before) suggest that the problem may be solved. Fingers crossed.
I still had the LX parked up at my nans, so set about removing the distributor. Anoyingly one of the small screws that hold the cap on sheared off in the dizzy body. Humph.
So I decided the next best option was to remove the coil from the thought good one. I also switched the optical sensor over as well - so bar the body, it essecially has the dizzy from the LX (which was running perfectly when I bent it) This job went pretty smoothly and a run this afternoon, combined with leaving it ticking over to get really hot, switching off restarting and driving again (all of which combined have brought on the symptoms before) suggest that the problem may be solved. Fingers crossed.
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So the problem is back.
The engine gets hot on a long run at high revs, then it starts to hesitate and when the revs drop at traffic lights/roundabout etc it refuses to rev, give it an amount of steady throttle and it blips, like its being revved - quite embarrassing!
So going back to possible causes before I though I might try disconnecting the temperature sensor, not much difference, plug back in again, not much difference, disconnect again - it won't tick over very well, but it runs! - this process has happened 4/5 times on the way home from Winchester this evening. So is the connecting and disconnecting the temp sensor masking the problem, or helping diagnose the cause? I have one from the other car to put on in the morning when it's cooled down.
In other news...... I did this this afternoon, when I cold have been fixing the car, if I hadn't already thought it was fixed.
The engine gets hot on a long run at high revs, then it starts to hesitate and when the revs drop at traffic lights/roundabout etc it refuses to rev, give it an amount of steady throttle and it blips, like its being revved - quite embarrassing!
So going back to possible causes before I though I might try disconnecting the temperature sensor, not much difference, plug back in again, not much difference, disconnect again - it won't tick over very well, but it runs! - this process has happened 4/5 times on the way home from Winchester this evening. So is the connecting and disconnecting the temp sensor masking the problem, or helping diagnose the cause? I have one from the other car to put on in the morning when it's cooled down.
In other news...... I did this this afternoon, when I cold have been fixing the car, if I hadn't already thought it was fixed.
disconnecting the temp sensor makes it run rich because it makes the ECU think your engine is cold (max resistance in the sensor). How do the plugs look? any signs of running rich or lean? Have you checked the timing? are the two bolts that hold the dizzy on tight?
if the spark is there then i would try a new fuel pump, maybe its on its last legs? a pressure gauge would help diagnose that problem if you can get the car to play up and check the gauge at the same time.
And also as Jay says, the TB solder joints are a good (free) thing to do. just make sure you seal that metal plate back on properly if you ever plan to run boost
P.s, This is my favourite looking micra! you have done a fine job
if the spark is there then i would try a new fuel pump, maybe its on its last legs? a pressure gauge would help diagnose that problem if you can get the car to play up and check the gauge at the same time.
And also as Jay says, the TB solder joints are a good (free) thing to do. just make sure you seal that metal plate back on properly if you ever plan to run boost
P.s, This is my favourite looking micra! you have done a fine job
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Temp sensor - made no difference. T/B re-solder - seems to have worked - Yay!
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Throttle body re-solder has lasted a week now, long runs, hotness and all. I claim it's fixed - touch wood, fingers crossed, etc.
So to celebrate, and because I'll be bucking the trend in these parts and heading to the Retro show at Santa Pod tomorrow, I took a sneaky extra half a coil off the front. It's not made a huge difference, but has closed the obscene arch gap up a little.
So to celebrate, and because I'll be bucking the trend in these parts and heading to the Retro show at Santa Pod tomorrow, I took a sneaky extra half a coil off the front. It's not made a huge difference, but has closed the obscene arch gap up a little.
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I honestly cant remember. I still don't think I'm as low as some I've seen with shortened springs, but with the factory or high offset wheels so far under the arches It's hard to make a comparison with pictures.
The rears are completely captive, the droop of the factory shocks has been reduced by welding a replacement bush mount further down the shaft, and sleeving the shaft inside the car. The fronts remain secured to the spring seats top and bottom by a number of wraps of stainless wire each side of the cup. The only time I've had any issues has been one MOT time when the mild steel (mig) wire I used to use rusted and snapped allowing the spring cup to come away and not seat properly. I replace all the wires with stainless and it's not been a problem since.
The rears are completely captive, the droop of the factory shocks has been reduced by welding a replacement bush mount further down the shaft, and sleeving the shaft inside the car. The fronts remain secured to the spring seats top and bottom by a number of wraps of stainless wire each side of the cup. The only time I've had any issues has been one MOT time when the mild steel (mig) wire I used to use rusted and snapped allowing the spring cup to come away and not seat properly. I replace all the wires with stainless and it's not been a problem since.
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I'll measure how much stud I've got sticking out of a front wheel nut, that should give a good idea how much longer than stock they are. IIRC they are about 30mm longer.
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Re-visiting an old idea...
Dougyledds
Woopa Pandastyle!
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Nothing a hacksaw and enthusiasm won't sort
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Totally agree
Yup, absolutely friggen awesome in my opinion!
Killed it man!
I really want to do this (drivers side only though) but I've just fitted two new wings to the car so not sure about drilling holes into it!
Got the mirror sat in my room taunting me and everything haha
I really want to do this (drivers side only though) but I've just fitted two new wings to the car so not sure about drilling holes into it!
Got the mirror sat in my room taunting me and everything haha
Re-visiting an old idea...
Hey dude what do you use for the blank door mirrors? and would it work with a k10?
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I'ts MOT time tomorow, so In preparation I thought that I should do something about the pair of font tyres that are tying to do an impression of Kojak. Juggling tyres and wheels has resulted in a combination of rims in use - I had a pair of Wolfrace Slots which were bare so fitting the one unmounted tyre I had to one of them, and then only removing one tyre from it's existing rim (5" steel) and fitting it to the other bare slot was a faster way to do it than removing the two scrap tyres from two of the Weller 8 Spokes.
Which do you like Slots or Spokes?
As it turned out the tyre juggling was a waste of time! I jacked it up at home to fit the best of the other tyres to the O/S front, and put the sensible back box on. Thought to myself, I'll just give that a bit of a tap and the sill opened up Oh well I'll still put it in and see what else it fails on.
Which do you like Slots or Spokes?
As it turned out the tyre juggling was a waste of time! I jacked it up at home to fit the best of the other tyres to the O/S front, and put the sensible back box on. Thought to myself, I'll just give that a bit of a tap and the sill opened up Oh well I'll still put it in and see what else it fails on.
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Just peices of lack plastic sheets (1mm High impact polystyrene - as use for vacuum forming) trimmed to size and stuck on with trim tape.
GL with MOT mark, sure itll be fine for everything else
Those slots look sexy you should sell them to me haha
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The MOT went as thought, a refusal for issue of an MOT certificate was issued.
Front Brake pads low - Replacements bought (Disks were advisoried too so they are getting replaced as well)
OS Number plate light - Replacement bought before the MOT
Exhaust Substantially louder than original - No surprise there then - stocker to go on before re-test.
Corrosion within the prescribed area OS outer sill - Looked something like this:
With a little tickle with the flap wheel,[
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And then some attention from the slitting disk,
Hmmm, seems some more is required,
Then I took the children home for tea. I went back to my folks and got the inner repair panel cut and shaped, but ran out of light before I could get it welded.
This is the first time I've done anything like this so am pretty much making it up as I go along - wish me luck and any comments on my technique gratefully recieved!
Front Brake pads low - Replacements bought (Disks were advisoried too so they are getting replaced as well)
OS Number plate light - Replacement bought before the MOT
Exhaust Substantially louder than original - No surprise there then - stocker to go on before re-test.
Corrosion within the prescribed area OS outer sill - Looked something like this:
With a little tickle with the flap wheel,[
And then some attention from the slitting disk,
Hmmm, seems some more is required,
Then I took the children home for tea. I went back to my folks and got the inner repair panel cut and shaped, but ran out of light before I could get it welded.
This is the first time I've done anything like this so am pretty much making it up as I go along - wish me luck and any comments on my technique gratefully recieved!
