k11 1999 - dies at temperature

Patrick02 · Jul 3, 2016

Hi, my first post and ask for help! I've 99 1.0 Micra. It's a great little car, battered and bruised over the years (by others) but not without problems in the past. All sorted now, except for the new one yesterday!

All normal (starts straightaway, runs normal, all good), driving along until it gets up to temp., then shuts down.
Pump is fine (I start only after hearing it click, telling me it's up to pressure), battery good (have an old Berlingo battery, from a previous issue now solved), all standard warnings lights present at startup and after it shuts down. NATS was bypassed a while ago, replaced distro last year - no corrosion now, leads good.

So, as far as I can tell, something is failing at temperature - there's no spark, nor fuel (when I removed the plugs to check spark, I could not smell any fuel, and there should have been something in there are trying to restart). Checked fuses, all good. If I just wait, it'll run fine again, as if nothing was wrong. Six mins later (if just ticking over), shut down - just dies. Everything works, except fuel and spark.

After it orginally happened, my friend was having a look at a black box with looked like it has three relays (like fuses), and she started (as I was cranking it at the time). Now, it might have cooled by then, so I don't know if it's relevant.
Today, after leaving it overnight (after towing it back), she started as normal; after six mins, out like a light.

Hope someone can help, as I'm out in the sticks, a Nissan stealer is a long way away, and I'm new to the area (so no knowledge of a decent local mech). cheers

pollyp · Jul 4, 2016

Take out the larger 2-pin coolant temp sensor behind the thermostat housing / dizzy, and test its resistance/degrees C is within spec.
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-119#post-704079

Patrick02 · Jul 4, 2016

tnx pollyp, makes sense. Just as I was taking it out, the housing snapped, so perhaps soemthing was amiss already (no problem removing other connectors). Buying a new one from Micksgarage, though there seems to be quite a difference in price. cheers

Patrick02 · Jul 5, 2016

update 5/7/16 - fitted the new coolant temperature sensor, put everything back together. Non-starter, ack! However, at least petrol into the head, but now no spark! Some coolant came out when I took out the original sensor, but I presume it refills from the coolant reservoir.
So, from everything working perfectly until at working temp., then shutdown with no spark nor fuel into head. To, change of coolant sensor, with no start at all, no spark, but petrol to head. Hmmm.
BTW, what is the sensor just about the larger, 2-pin coolant one? I bent this slightly when removing the larger one; a cause? edit: I see this is for the gauge.
thanks for the help, cheers

pollyp · Jul 5, 2016

if it's a distributer type engine, clean the white oxide coating off the 4 spark points inside the dizzy cap for good spark.
check the dizzy connectors are fully inserted and not damaged.
check all earthing leads.
try a spare dizzy, maybe the coils are old overheating and failing?

Patrick02 · Jul 5, 2016

tnx pollyp, the dizzy is relatively new along with a new rotor arm (fitted it last year), but even so, I cleaned it; still no joy. I only have the older one I removed, but it might be worth a shot (otherwise, opening me wallet again); can't do it until the morning now. cheers

davyboy · Jul 6, 2016

Just from experience on two different cars I have owned, try changing your fuel filter, and blow the lines through, and change your ignition fuse, even if it looks ok.
I had very, very similar to your problems, and both of these changes fixed the problem.
Cheers, and best of luck.

Patrick02 · Jul 6, 2016

will do, davyboy and pollyp - the ignition fuse is proving tricky to find in Ireland (only one isUK, at €20 squids to Ireland); needs must, however. Thanks to you both for helping - will let you know how it works out. cheers

davyboy · Jul 6, 2016

Patrick02 said:
will do, davyboy and pollyp - the ignition fuse is proving tricky to find in Ireland (only one isUK, at €20 squids to Ireland); needs must, however. Thanks to you both for helping - will let you know how it works out. cheers

Put up a picture of where it is, I'll get one from the scrappy if they have one.
It'll probably fall into my pocket

so postage only.
The only one out there at the moment is a coilpack, so will that fit yours (?)

Patrick02 · Jul 7, 2016

update - here are a couple of pics, of both fuse boxes. However, I'm unsure which fuse is the Ignition Fuse - I thought is was the black one, 65amp, but it is written on the fusebox cover as the Battery Fuse. Is it the FL30A IGN SW, the green one?
I managed to get a local Motor Factor to source the 65amp one, but am holding back on ordering it (only a couple of squids he tells me). And tnx for the offer davyboy; much appreciated.
BTW, the side fuse/relay box is loose, wondering if wires are also loose, though I can't find any.

Front fuse box:

Side fusebox:

davyboy said:
Put up a picture of where it is, I'll get one from the scrappy if they have one.
It'll probably fall into my pocket so postage only.
The only one out there at the moment is a coilpack, so will that fit yours (?)

davyboy · Jul 7, 2016

I'm hoping to get out there tomorrow buddy, I'll take the lot.
Postage only mate, they will fall into my pocket when I sneeze.

Patrick02 · Jul 8, 2016

tnx d, much appreciated, let me know, cheers

davyboy · Jul 8, 2016

Hello Patrick. I've got them all, I think, I'm off out now, won't be back until tomorrow.
I'll put a picture up tomorrow bud.
And yes, they did fall into my bag

Patrick02 · Jul 9, 2016

cheers

k11 1999 - dies at temperature

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