Fuse box question + more

[Tom Messy]

Bit of background info:

I'm running a single lead from the battery through to the boot, so I can have some lighting or whatever in there etc. That way in theory it should make the wiring a bit simpler than the tangled mess it is now!

I've just bought this fusebox so I could individually fuse each appliance/thing:
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/311

It didn't come with any wiring diagrams or anything, and I was wondering how I should connect it in. I've got a lead coming off of the positive battery terminal I'm going to use, but how should I connect it to the fuse box? Will I need to split it and run it to each of the fuses? If I did that, I'm thinking I would then connect said appliance to the other connector on the fuse box, and then run an earth cable to the bodywork?

Any pointers would be great - as I've said before, I'm electrically thick!

Tom

 

[Micra Jo]

Bit of background info:

I'm running a single lead from the battery through to the boot, so I can have some lighting or whatever in there etc. That way in theory it should make the wiring a bit simpler than the tangled mess it is now!

I've just bought this fusebox so I could individually fuse each appliance/thing:
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/311

It didn't come with any wiring diagrams or anything, and I was wondering how I should connect it in. I've got a lead coming off of the positive battery terminal I'm going to use, but how should I connect it to the fuse box? Will I need to split it and run it to each of the fuses? If I did that, I'm thinking I would then connect said appliance to the other connector on the fuse box, and then run an earth cable to the bodywork?

OK, so a fuse box simply splits your main power supply into individually 'fused' outputs, ie, same voltage but with different current limitations, say 3A, 5A, 10A...etc.

There should be an 'input'. That is the positive line voltage. The ground isn't fused, so needs no connection. The positive supply could connect internally to each of the 'fuses' whereby you would simply connect the main positive supply cable to one input (common rail) or if there is no internal connection, you may have to hard wire the positive supply to each input - its hard to tell from the picture - only says '6.3mm blade connections on underside of box' in the description. The layout and number of the connectors will help identify this...

This would then result in one side of all the fuse 'slots' supplied with the line voltage. The fuse, when you fit it, will determine whether that particular 'slot' will have an output volatge and the current rating of the fuse will hence determine the current limitation of that 'slot' ie, 3A, 5A, etc.

Judging by the product description, since the connectors for the fuse box are underneath, this is where you would run a connection off for your specific application.

Like I said, can't really tell from the attached linked picture the layout of the connectors on this box, but this is how a fuse box is used.

If you can describe the layout of the connectors, or take a picture and post it, it may be more helpful to anyone advising you if you wanted more specific advice.

HTH.

 

[Tom Messy]

Thanks for the reply and explanation. Here's a pic of the bottom of the box:

I can't see any main power input. It looks to me like I will have to split my positive lead to each of the connectors, and then attach the appliance to the other side, running the earth off that to the bodywork.

Tom

 

[Arnold]

I've got one 4awg cable going to a fused distributed live box in the boot. That allows you to split 1 big power cable, into multiple smaller power cables, for amplifiers etc. You can put different size fuses in there.

You can also get distibuted earths too. 4awg cable from the shell, which splits into multiple earths.

Live
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/dynamics-fpb34-fused-distribution-p-5569.html

That's like mine, but mine has one input, that has three.

Earth is the same but without the fuses.

What you could do is just use one of the fused lives to power all your lights and accessories!

 

[Tom Messy]

Thanks Arnold

Until i get a better setup like in that link, here's what I've done.

It's not connected up yet, so if theres a problem, shout, and it's not the end of the world :laugh:

The connectors will go on the ends of the black wires, and then plug into the fusebox.

Tom

Just need to get the connectors tomorrow, and it's done

 

[Micra Jo]

Thanks Arnold

Until i get a better setup like in that link, here's what I've done.

It's not connected up yet, so if theres a problem, shout, and it's not the end of the world :laugh:

The connectors will go on the ends of the black wires, and then plug into the fusebox.

Tom

Just need to get the connectors tomorrow, and it's done

Yep that looks perfect to me (Y)

BTW, instead of crimping the ends of the cables, why not solder them directly onto the fusebox terminals instead ?

Its certainly a lot cheaper, easier, and quicker too.

Just leave the crimping if you prefer for the output side.

Tip: use the spare 2 connectors on the terminal block for the ground connections - will keeps things neater by preventing having loads of wires everywhere (you can add an extra piece of terminal block if required).

 

[Tom Messy]

Yep that looks perfect to me

BTW, instead of crimping the ends of the cables, why not solder them directly onto the fusebox terminals instead ?

Its certainly a lot cheaper, easier, and quicker too.

Just leave the crimping if you prefer for the output side.

Tip: use the spare 2 connectors on the terminal block for the ground connections - will keeps things neater by preventing having loads of wires everywhere (you can add an extra piece of terminal block if required).

I think I might just do that Thanks for the tips.

Tom

 

[Micra Jo]

I think I might just do that Thanks for the tips.

Tom

No worries.

Also, if you have a multimeter handy - stick one of the probes into the screw terminal of the red main power cable and check for continuity of the connections at the fusebox end - not totally necessary but avoids headache later on trying to look for that dud connection...

 

[frank]

tom

those black link wire,s are a potential bottle-neck