Fitting an Omex

Stani1029

Stani1029

Club Member
well ive been getting bored recently so decided to have a look at my omex and its magical wiring loom. first of all i traced all wires back to there points and have marked each one individually. im basically needing help on this as wires isnt really my thing...

heres a list of what ive got sorted atm

battery power and grounds
coolant temperature sensor
air temperature sensor
throttle position sensor
map sensor
injection
fuel pump
crank sensor

then we have alot of wires left, can someone please tell me whats not needed. we have:

road speed sensor 2 wires
rad fan relay 1 wire
lambda sensor 1 wire
idle 4 wires (1,2,3 & 4)
aux out 4 wires (1,2,3 & 4)
aux in 3 wires (1,2 & 3)
ignition 2 wires (1 & 2)

im pretty sure i know i just need confirmation thanks in advance (Y)
 
ours have no knock sensor eh stani
i guess you can fit a shift light on the dash if you want to
the speedo signals the roadspeed to the ecu
rad fan relay is straight forward
lambda is middle wire
fuelpump is controlled by the relay (behind your right foot kickpanel on mine)
noddie will probably know where the rest go :grinning:
 
yeah i know they dont have a knock sensor it was just to clear it up as one is easily bought and fitted. so i can do away with that wire.
the shift light i dont want
the roadspeed sensor, it says the unput should be pre-diffirential e.g. propshaft rpm or electronic speedo (mines being cable)
rad fan relay, i have a diagram so thats understood
i dont currently have a lambda sensor fitted, i thought they had 2 wires coming from them?
and fuel pump just connect it in at the box?

CHEERS!
 
ok just read up that the aux outputs are for things like vtec control, wastegate control and second cooling fan etc. can i use this for my intercooler fan?
also read that the aux inputs are for anti-lag, full throttle gearshift and traction control.
 
i think personally rather than running a load of wires through the baulkhead stani, i would tap into the factory loom near the ecu plug.
so if you find the colours of the wires on the t/p/s for example then tap into the same colour ones near the ecu plug, and same for the rad and fuelpump relays etc :grinning:
and that way if you have any problems you can easily unplug the omex and plugin the stock ecu
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Stani1029 said:
yeah thats a good idea, what about injectors and so on....
Click to expand...

well if you had wires 1 to 4 i guess you would use those pinouts 101, 103, 110 and 112 in the pic, but you say you have 2 pairs of wires on the omex stani ..... so dunno lol :wasntme:
 
haha ok lol i have a diagram. two wires are brown and 2 are white, and on the diagram it has injector 1 output (brown) going to cyl number 1 + 4 and injector 2 output (white) on cyl number 2 + 3. but does that just mean it doesnt matter which way they go about....

dont worry frank im not asking you everything im just making the questions out to everyone who skims across this :)
 
its probably geared up for a wideband lambda eh stani, so you,ll probably disregard any stock lamba input, and the fuelpump and any fans will draw too much current for the omex to handle, so the omex will signal the relevant relay and the relay will control the f/p or fan or whatever eh :grinning:
 
Hia mate, Sorry, completely missed this thread:doh:
so what are you unclear on now? If you pm me your email address i will sent you the wiring diagram for the micra ecu (very usefull).
Frank's idea does seem a good one, im temped to do that if i have to build a new loom, my only thought would be how usefull the standard ecu is on your turbo setup if you were to have a problem?
For the injectors, it will be so you can run semi-sequetial injection, fire two sets of two (at different times) rather than batch (firing them all at once and the fuel waits in the runner for the valves to open (from what i have read its about emissions and fuel economy)
I should think you could use the secondary rad fan for the IC but you will have to have a look at the software to see if you can control it depending on intake temps.
 
found this...Semi-Sequential Fuel Injection - Semi-Sequential means that 2 or more cylinder's injectors are triggered at the same time, but only 1 time during the engine's cycle. This requires the ECU to be synched with the engine's cycle. Typically injection timing is retarded from the optimum timing point for full sequential by an angle which is equal to 1/2 the angle between 2 cylinders in crankshaft degrees. Semi-sequential allows optimization of injection timing which typically leads to increases in midrange torque and a reduction in fuel consumption for equivalent power compared which Batch fire.
 
the same place, im at the stage where i need the loom in the car to feed all the wires. the problem being im not allowed to work on my car where it is. im in no rush i aim for august this year. normally things would be done in no time but i dont have as much time anymore :p
 
yeah i bet, what with the baby and all.
told you could you could make the loom yourself:) nice one!
is the trigger wheel and sensor fitterd yet?
 
nah not done the wheel yet. i have the 35 tooth one, you reckon its the right one? its just that i seen yours only has 2 teeth...me and mikey are going to do the bracket for the sensor eventually :)
 
Stani1029 said:
nah not done the wheel yet. i have the 35 tooth one, you reckon its the right one? its just that i seen yours only has 2 teeth...me and mikey are going to do the bracket for the sensor eventually :)
Click to expand...

No, you have the right one... the hawk ecu is just weird and need the two teeth one (supposedly). you seen the bracket i made? you could do somthing similar, seems to work well.
 
ok about the injector wiring, do i put injection 1 wires to 1 + 4 and injection 2 wires to 2 + 3? also isnt there 2 wires per injector? means i need 8 i only got 4....
 
right forget that i see that theres a wire that loops to each injector, but then where does it go. pin 46 on the micra ecu, does anyone have a list of each pin for the micra?
 
Stani1029 said:
right forget that i see that theres a wire that loops to each injector, but then where does it go. pin 46 on the micra ecu, does anyone have a list of each pin for the micra?
Click to expand...

the injectors are powered with a switched live and earthed through the ecu so you will need to run a wire from the switched live to one side of the injectors and then use the ecu loom wires to go to the other side(this i know to be true)

(what im not sooo certain about) it only matters if you want them to fire at different times. firing order is 1-3-4-2 right? so i would put 1-3 together and 4-2, then you can fire 1-3 just before no.1 intake stroke and 4-2 just before no.4 intake stroke.

my ecu will only fire all together (once per full engine cycle) so im not certain of what i just said.
 
so where am i getting a switched live from? ignition? and about the injectors ive just read up on the 4 clyinder semi-sequetial injection. it says on a firing order of 1-3-4-2 connect injector wiring 1 to 1 + 4 and injector wiring 2 to 3 + 2. i think they fire the wires 1-2-1-2:

cylinder 1- wire 1
cylinder 2- wire 2
cylinder 3- wire 2
cylinder 4- wire 1

so when firing 1-3-4-2 it goes 1-2-1-2 rather than 1-1-2-2. hope that makes sense!!

cheers
 
Stani1029 said:
so where am i getting a switched live from? ignition? and about the injectors ive just read up on the 4 clyinder semi-sequetial injection. it says on a firing order of 1-3-4-2 connect injector wiring 1 to 1 + 4 and injector wiring 2 to 3 + 2. i think they fire the wires 1-2-1-2:

cylinder 1- wire 1
cylinder 2- wire 2
cylinder 3- wire 2
cylinder 4- wire 1

so when firing 1-3-4-2 it goes 1-2-1-2 rather than 1-1-2-2. hope that makes sense!!

cheers
Click to expand...

sounds ok to me stani :grinning:
 
Stani1029 said:
pin 46 is the switched live im looking for.
Click to expand...

i think so
quote
IT RUNS!

Didnt take too many tries to get her running. First time round i had only put power on the ecu pins that needed it. Found out later theres also a seperate power feed for the coil.

Weird problem with the tacho though, using an aftermarket gauge and can't get it to read from pin #2 at all. If i connect it to the negative of the coil after the resistor feedback to the ecu it works, but the tacho isnt reading right when set for a 4cyl engine, instead it has to be set to a combination of the tachos dip switches that isnt listed in the book.
Another thing is the car is limiting at only 5000rpm, is this normal? Thought redline would be at roughly 6500ish.

For future reference, the engine only needs a few wires to get up and going
-ve 48,39
+ve 47,38 and 46 i think, i just put power on the red supply wire for the eccs relay and cut the wires on the switch contacts and joined them,
start signal - 34, just fed off the starter switch
tacho is only other thing ecu related

things like your oil pressure lght, alternator charging and warning light, and your starter motor circuit are all seperate from the engine loom
 
If its a 600 then you need to set the rev limit with the software. Note about the shift light, it mush have a resistor on it as the board leaks to earth and appears to be on all the time if you don't. Omex told me the value to use.

To run only need crank signal and TPS or MAP sensor. Temp inputs are only for trimming the fuel. In all cases the ecu grounds signals as opposing powering things. Sound like you are up an running.

cheers
 

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