Coil question

B

Burfy

Ex. Club Member
Hey all, long time no see!! I've just got a quick question.. I'm troubleshooting my electrical..currently i have no spark.. it's something BEFORE the coil.. I know the coil is good and the ht wires are new.. so dizzy isn't an issue.. now, i've changed the inline resistors and fuses because that was an issue the first time i didn't get spark.. i've also verified that all of my relays function properly.. k, so there's 4 wires for the connection to the coil.. i can get a 12v reading for 3/4 connections when in "start".. the 4th wire that wont give me anything goes to a 2.2k ohm resistor.. this resistor is functioning properly.. i guess my real question is, where does the other end of that wire goto? i have a really bad feeling it's a broken wire, but i need to know where it goes to.. i currently have my dash ripped off cause the wire goes through the firewall.. it's a green/yellow stripe wire..

can anybody at least confirm that all 4 wires going to the coil should have 12v when the car is in the final ignition position but not started?
 
One wire should be a negative, I have the same model I'll just go and check for you.

Right I have got a black wire with a white stripe and a green wire going to the positive on the coil,
I then have a blue wire going to the negative and my tacho wire also on the negative.

Here's the 2 types:
DSC00006.jpg

DSC00005.jpg
 
K so the bottom pic is the setup i have.. i know that resistor is still good.. it's the wire coming into the resistor that i think is messed up.. so if i were to trace it going into the cockpit, where would that plug into? is it going to the ignition?
 
and the sideways ~ means it goes somewhere else? so i assume i have to look right around the ignition barrel for the connection eh? i have a really bad feeling the wire has been chewed up or straight up snapped :doh:
 
well whatever it is, it's a huge annoyance.. and it's forced me to take off my whole dash lol.. i'll look around the ignition and see what i find.. can u confirm that the b/w wire going into the coil carries 12v when the ignition is past ACC? and by b/w i mean the same wire with the in-line resistor.. cheers!
 
so there's 2 positive and two negative eh? yea.. i definitely have a breakage somewhere.. the two grounds are good, and the w/g is good.. but the b/w that goes to the resistor isn't pumping anything.. alright, i'm going to go back to probing.. i appreciate your help olly.. hopefully i'll be joining the msc next week or so, so i can start helping people like you helped me.. cheers man!
 
I only have 1 negative, I just added the other for my tacho wire. There are 3 positibve though I think, I only had 2 cos 2 were joined further up the circuit.
 
That's strange, I would suggest putting power to it to see what happens, though as a warning that could break everything.
 
well it's not working now, so i guess i can't really go wrong haha.. your vehicle has that 4-pin connector though right? if so do all 4 have a 12v reading? (for the negatives put the probe on the positive of the battery) cheers
 
I'll just go check and get some pics for you.

Upon closer inspection I see that the fool that connected the alarm system cut the plug off and has wired it all in together, then stuffed the connections in a bag.

However the wires connected to the positive side of the coil all have 12v when the ignition is on
 
could u look under your dash and determine whether you have a wire hooked up into that slot? it should be above your ignition relay.. fairly easy to see..
 
I have just found out the r in the diagram means R.H. model, dunno if this helps, anyway the wire from the resistor connecs to the ignition 'on' position
 
Obviously I am not a mechanic so I can not say 100% but as far as I can work out from diagrams etc yes it needs a 12v source, maybe someone else on here can verify.
I would suggest putting a fuse in-line (say 5 amps) in case I'm wrong, then you won't damage anything.
 
i'll give it a go.. it's not the end of the world if the thing blows up.. and even if i solve this problem i still gotta figure out why oil is blowing into the rad, but no water is going into the engine.. lol.. i love my micra :down:
 
*sigh* i figured.. i did an engine swap with another engine that had lower km than my other one.. the only reason i swapped was because i blew the head gasket in the old one.. could it be a failed waterpump?

on the otherhand, no luck with putting 12v to that resistor wire.. it now reads 12v on all 4, but there's still no spark.. i think i'll just get my friend to look at it.. he's worked on the electrical of this car before.. plus i've done all the dirty work for him haha.. i'm sure i just need a second person to point at one small, stupid thing and go "aha!" anyways, cheers for the help olly!
 
that looks like a K10 with ECC ignition. you could convert it to points. That would solve all the elec problem.
 
I have skimmed the thread as its a bit bitty. You don't appear to have ECC, if you have the very top lower diagram, I just saw a plug that looked similar, anyway:

But your going about fault finding this all the wrong way (it seems).

Two wires come from the ignition, no relays are involved, and infact possibley no fuses. (going by the above diagram.)

This is what should happen:
With the key held on START (disconnect the startermotor) you will get 12v from the coil + to the chassis. on the wire that DOES NOT have the resistor on it.
With the key on RUN you should get 12v on one side of the resistor, and probably 12v on the other side and also again on the + to the coil.

The coil is fired by pulling the NEGATIVE side of the coil (-) to ground. This happens within the distributor. If this does not work no spark. Infact with the ignition on in the above states as shown, there is a good chance that BOTH + and - on the coil will read 12v - this is a good thing. If you have ignition points, not electronic ignition then you may find that one side of the coil is + and the other side is -, and the resistor will be getting hot, if you have electronic ignition, and one side of the coil is reading 12, and the other 0 you have a broken coil (probably)

If the + side of the coil all appears fine, then ignore that and all the other wiring in your dash - its irrelevent.

You only need to be concerned with WHY the coil is not seeing negative. If you have electronic ignition then two wires in a plastic sleeve will come from the distributor to the coil + possibly another earth. If you have points then one wire from the coil will be earth (to the distributor case), and the other will goto the coil negative. you need to check which one you have.

this should help a little.
 
Yes they do help, that means that you have ECC ignition, (as I thought I saw earlier) that means basically the problem is much harder to find and most of what has been said in all the posts above is irrelevant.

I did wonder since its a 1992 1.2 K10. DONT go putting random voltages on any of those pins. Your K10 has an ECU that controls ignition and its under the passenger (well possibly driver on your car) seat, now is probably the time to ask your friend for help.
 
nuts.. yea the computer is under the passenger side.. i'll wait until tomorrow to speak to my friend then.. hopefully he has some insight as to what is going on.. thanks again for the help guys.. as for converting to points, how difficult is it to do? is it something i have to purchase? convert?
 

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