Brakes nearly failed mot

Hey Guys,

At my last MOT my S reg 1.0 K11 only just passed on brakes. they said it was pulling left underbraking and that they werent that good at stopping. So my question is what discs and calipers will fit under stock 13 steelies. At the moment i have drums all round without ABS.

Where should I start looking to achieve better stopping power at a reasonable cost.

Cheers MSC
Ash
 
s reg that be 98/99 you wont have drums all round, it will be discs and pads on the front and drums on the rear.sounds to me you may have a sticking calipar, may need new discs and pads so basicly a good overhaul
 
I dont know of any car that has drums all round, as andy says it sounds like a sticking caliper, it happened on mine.
 
adjust shoes at the back correctly, should improve brakes all round
my self adjusters are missing of my drums at the back, so frank adjusted them out yesterday so they just scrap the drum when putting putting it back on. now i have a working handbrake and very good braking at front disks
 
its a 98, so your saying its should have discs on the front and I can adjust the shoes in the drums to stop it sticking? how do you adjust them?

Thanks guys
 
My first car had drum brakes allround! (B reg Mini!) :(

I'd start by taking the front pads out, make sure the slides arent sticking, make sure the pistons move in and out smoothly.
Assuming thats all ok and the pads arent worn clean the corrosion/dirt off the stainless steel pad thingies and the pad carrier. Clean loose rust off the edge of the disc too.
Re assemble with a light smear of brake grease (BMW stuff is best, 34p trade price a sachet, which does 2 cars but copper slip will do)
Dont put too much on or it causes dirt to get trapped, a light film is more than enough. Remember to pump the pedal back up!

Moving to the rear, slacken off the handbrake cable at the lever. Take the drums off. Check the wheel cylinder moves and isnt leaking. Check the handbrake lever on the brake shoes moves and returns to the stop and remove any rusty lip from the drum.
Sand glazing off the rear shoes and chamfer the edges of the friction material at 45 degrees, this gives the brakes more bite.
Assuming it isnt siezed, turn the adjuster wheel a few clicks and try the drum back on. You want the drum to turn easily with a slight rub from the shoes. If its not right, give the adjuster a few more clicks. When there is a slight rub work the handbrake on and off a few times to realign the shoes and try again.
When you have both drums spinning with very light resistance adjust up the cable at the lever again. Nissan recommend 7 clicks. Pull it on and make sure the drums are locked. Release it and make sure they both spin. Retry with an assistant pressing the footbrake.
Dont over adjust the rear brakes, Micras dont like this! Too tight and it will boil the brake fluid and the brakes will fade quickly. Will cost you more in petrol too!(Y)
 
Why does everyone assume that if you don't have enough stopping power you'll just up the brake disc and caliper size.
For a track/rally car i can understand that it may be of use to do that but for a road car?

I have an SR discs all round and it doesn't stop anywhere near as quickly as the Super S did with discs front drum rear.

Just service all brake parts renew if necessary new brake fluid etc.

At worst it will be rear wheel cylinders.

Good Luck!
 
Please only play around with your brakes if you know what you are doing as the consequences dont bare thinking about, i had a neighbour once who had a problem with brake squeal, he was told to use copper grease, so he bought some, i just happened to be passing by his drive and he was smearing said grease all over the braking surface of the pad, after i stopped laughing i gave him a lift to get some new pads and helped him fit them.
 
Changing discs and pads are not a problem. they shouldn't be for anyone!
even the haynes rates it as a low spanner job lol
i think brake bleeding and caliper problems should be seen to by someone other than myself though lol
 
brake bleeding doesnt need to be difficult. you need a clear plastic bottle, a length of rubber hose (preferably clear) and a mate. drill a hole in the bottle top so that the hose just squeezes through. then cut a slit in the side of the hose approx 8-10mm long, 20mm above the end of the hose. now put a secure bung in place in the end near the slot. jubilee or hose clip it on. you have just made a 1-way valve. next step crack the bleed nipple. best off doing this with a socket, but then you hve to change to spanner. put the open end of the hose on the bleed nipple, and open the nipple a 1/2 turn. make sure you're able to see the bottle clearly where the slit is, and the reservoir so you can top it up. the slit you made acts as a 1-way valve. As the brake pedal is pushed, it creates pressure in the system which would normally push the piston and pad onto the disc.. here however, it pushes the fluid into the bleed hose. as the pressure reaches the slit, the slit opens. when the pressure is removed, the slit closes, making sure there's no air in the system!
 
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