Another problem!!:(

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curtis

curtis

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On the way to college this time...lol

My heat gauge went off the clock after the car had done about 10miles....it was quite frosted over before i left (jet washers weren't working)

I checked the coolent and there was nothing in there?!?

There is a bit of smoke coming from the crank case and i'm not too sure whats happened this time....

can anyone help?

thanks
 
good point olly, i had a rad freeze up once when the antifreeze was weak .
(chill factor eh !)
 
Whoops....

When you say 'the Antifreeze was weak' was that because it was old or had more water than Antifreeze in it?

I normally fill the whole system with Antifreeze....and how many will say 'i filled it with Tap water' ?
 
haha about 80% water and 10%crap and 10% anti-freeze, i think it was frozen...will this have split a hose?
 
well not always. Put water and antifreeze in it and check for leaks with engine running then take it for a drive. You should have stopped immediatly the temp went above normal. You may have a blown headgasket.
 
curtis said:
haha about 80% water and 10%crap and 10% anti-freeze, i think it was frozen...will this have split a hose?
Click to expand...

If it has frozen and you get away with a split hose you better thank the auto gods! A cracked blocked is just as possible.

All anti freeze isn't advised because during warm up around 50 celcius (maybe more or less) anti freeze becomes quite thick. then thin again after this point.
 
but the fan isn't working either! i topped the coolent up but it disappears after a while ill check for leaks in a bit
 
It's likely that you've got a popped a core plug due to the weak coolant mixture and the frost last night.
 
the k10 only has one core plug at the back of the block i think

crank case is off.....can't see anything visible....very cold outside...lol

found out what that scraping was that i was on about in the other thread....looks like the one pulley (water pump i think) is wobbling all over the place....like a buckled wheels....can't see where the leak is though
 
its it leaking water onto the floor? if yes then simple fix ish

if no then its more than likely the headgasket blown and its burning it
 
ok after some long dismantling....all the way down to the water pump

cam belt needs replacing...
water pump needs replacing....

the sound i heard before was the baring in the water pump has gone...this then made it move of center....therefore scraping the cam belt on the metal surrounding it....therefore making a split in the cam belt.....

oh :upside: the diagnosing....lol

the water collent was coming out of one of the screws on the water pump...therefore the gasket seal has gone me thinks...
 
ok water pump in and fitted...with cardboard gasket...lol

new cam belt fitted....and i'm very sure that i had the timing in the correct plcace...everything was lined up...even my dad checked it....


the new problem is the car is running really badly....no power when i put my foot to the floor until about 3000rpm....and it won't go over 60mph?

Is this becuase in need to adjust something else like tappits? or have i got to have another go at the cam belt timing?

thanks Curtis.
 
you have to reset the iming, no point in trying to time it before hand,

disconnect the vaccuum, timing light if you cant do it by ear, and adjust accordingly. small bit at a time, you will hear the engine race up and down, adjust it so the it is at approx 800 rpm.

make sure belt is also not too tight. can cause it to pull on the pulleys stopping it running freely.
 
quickdraw:

not to sure what you mean... i put the two pullys in the correct places, all aligned with the marks on the metal....but i wasn't sure about the top, couldn't get eye level with it, but it looked fine....ill have another go tomorrow.
 
curtis said:
quickdraw:

not to sure what you mean... i put the two pullys in the correct places, all aligned with the marks on the metal....but i wasn't sure about the top, couldn't get eye level with it, but it looked fine....ill have another go tomorrow.
Click to expand...

If you get a timing light (basically fits on number 1 HT lead) and it flashed with the pulse everytime number on fires) when this light flashes (you mark the pulley with anythin like white paint or tipex) then you can adjust the timing (whilst the engine is running) to get it top dead centre (if thats wer you want it) -

Personally i do this by ear to the rate of the engines beat - with the age of the cars there is plenty of wear in them and it can "move" the timing out. that'd why it is better to learn to do it by ear.

This is how i was learnt to time up a good old "tractor" engine as my grandad use to call them (no electronic gadgets/computers etc) Everything could be done manually, you could diagnose without it being "an electrical issue" lol.

Makes me giggly to myself how passionate my grandad use to be about older engines, love 'em!
 
You want to set the ignition mate, if the cam timing wasn't setup within the allocation, the car wouldnt start, as the crank would not open pistons 1-4 whilst the cam is pushing the inlet valves down. It wouldn't give combustion/fire if the cam timing was out..

The trick to the ignition system is in when the spark actually occurs at the spark plug. This is the ignition timing. Timing is controlled by the relationship of the position of the piston to when the spark occurs. If the ignition spark occurs too soon it can actually push against a piston traveling up the cylinder as it is compressing the fuel/air mixture. This causes detonation, lost power, much higher combustion temperatures, backfires out the carb, and early internal engine part failures. If the spark occurs too late, the ignition of your fuel mixture occurs after the piston is traveling back down the cylinder. This is wasted energy, unburned fuel, high emissions, and lost power.

Q
 
thanks quickdraw, only just realised that my first post didn't explain the situation properly.....sorry....

so after spining the two pullys that the cambelt goes on i should do the ignition timing as well....if so ill do it....lol
 
not the fact that the one pully might be one notch out therefore making the car run ruff
 
it could be! but personally i would try set the ignition timing first! dont have to dismantle half the pulley system to do that :)
 
if your cam belt is out by a tooth it would still run but really roughly! And I think i would sort that out instead of trying to hide it by adjusting the ignition timing. Also did you tighten the cam belt properly? If its not done properly with a belt tension gauge it reduces the life of the belt upto 90%.

Ryan.
 
if your cam is 1 tooth advanced the powerband will be lower down the rpm range, if it is retarded it will be higher, but it will throw the ignition timing way out !
 
getting cam timing out is easy on these unless you have practice on them so redo the cam belt you can use the same belt if its not be on and used for a long time, generally if you have to move the dissy alot to get it back to normal then its cambelt is in the wrong place
 
well this was my first ever cam belt change...never previously done one....but when i adjusted the ignition timing yest....its running better then ever!! therefore the cam belt was correct first time...lol

thanks
 
not neccesarily! because thats what retarding the timing is about, you then have to adjust the ignition to compensate for it.

the K10 does react well to adjusting the cam timing slightly,my old ma12 was adjusted, and im sure a few will agree on the outputs it did.

just dont fiddle with it if you dont know what your doing, or at least if you dont have a spare engine, after the one your messing with pings. lol
 
5 degrees advanced and no pinking yet on my ma12 :grinning: going to push it more when i get the weber since i can adjust the jets alot easier than a standard carb lol
 
Fordy said:
5 degrees advanced and no pinking yet on my ma12 :grinning: going to push it more when i get the weber since i can adjust the jets alot easier than a standard carb lol
Click to expand...

Kool

well this has already been posted for ya.. just remember you will have to set the choke, idle etc to your specifics, as it has been rebuilt and cleaned.

:)
 
Fordy said:
5 degrees advanced and no pinking yet on my ma12 :grinning: going to push it more when i get the weber since i can adjust the jets alot easier than a standard carb lol
Click to expand...

You can probably push it all the way and it wont ping, but power will drop. Certaintly the case on stock MA10. The only way to find the best point for power is on a rolling road for ignition timing.
 
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