Is it possible to remove the studs from the hub (front and rear) while still on the car, or must the hubs be removed?
Cheers, Mark.
Cheers, Mark.
Extended Studs
- Thread starter markbognor
- Start date
frank
Club Member
my 20mm extended fronts and 35mm extended rears went in, in situ ok iirc mark (but i took the r/hubs off anyway, to weld them in) and a 3/4 drive breaker bar may be needed to free the 220nm nuts off if you do tho 
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13136&stc=1&d=1246463292
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13136&stc=1&d=1246463292
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my 20mm extended fronts and 35mm extended rears went in, in situ ok iirc mark (but i took the r/hubs off anyway, to weld them in) and a 3/4 drive breaker bar may be needed to free the 220nm nuts off if you do tho
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13136&stc=1&d=1246463292
where did you get your longer studs from frank?
frank
Club Member
i bought high tensile bolts ed, then cut some collars (so that they were snug in the knurled bit) then welded the heads to the hub
i think the proper ones are availiable on ebay tho
OP
OP
Cheers Frank, I just love the way you go about doing things.
just to add, Matt Humphris (trade section at the bottom of the forum) does proper long bolts for the micra, some are long and some are extra long.
something like £2 a bolt? but double check with him. well worth it, and i will be getting some from him at some point.
also i know that you can remove the studs from the front without taking the hub off, not sure on the back because i haven't tried.
something like £2 a bolt? but double check with him. well worth it, and i will be getting some from him at some point.
also i know that you can remove the studs from the front without taking the hub off, not sure on the back because i haven't tried.
OP
OP
Cheers NeX thats good to know.
I was hoping to buy from Matt, but I just couldn't justify the extra cost (hes says before he's tried fitting his ebay "bargains").
The generic studs I bought from ebay were just over half the price of the ones from MPH. I appreciate that Matt sells propper high quality race/rally parts, and if thats what I was doing I'd pay the premium, but I dont have any performance pretentions, its going to be slow and low all the way with project Retro my K11.
Of course I will probably be feeling a right chump later in the week when my studs dont fit. But I did some measureing of the stud that wrighty (thanks muchly) sent me so I'm fairly confident. I was also going to get a quote from MisteR Tee's wheel nut emporium, but the ebay price seemed so good I just clicked the BIN button fwn.
I was hoping to buy from Matt, but I just couldn't justify the extra cost (hes says before he's tried fitting his ebay "bargains").
The generic studs I bought from ebay were just over half the price of the ones from MPH. I appreciate that Matt sells propper high quality race/rally parts, and if thats what I was doing I'd pay the premium, but I dont have any performance pretentions, its going to be slow and low all the way with project Retro my K11.
Of course I will probably be feeling a right chump later in the week when my studs dont fit. But I did some measureing of the stud that wrighty (thanks muchly) sent me so I'm fairly confident. I was also going to get a quote from MisteR Tee's wheel nut emporium, but the ebay price seemed so good I just clicked the BIN button fwn.
let us know how you get on mate!
frank
Club Member
OP
OP
I bought 14.3 so hopefully they are right. I couldn't find my vernier when I measured the spare stud, but even with a ruler I could see it was more than 14 so just went with what seemed the most likely.
It does look like I've actually bought them too long (+20) but I'll fit them then break out the angle grinder just to make sure that they dont end up too short.
It does look like I've actually bought them too long (+20) but I'll fit them then break out the angle grinder just to make sure that they dont end up too short.
OP
OP
A quick guide to swapping your studs.
Well you guys wanted to know how it went. There's been some up and downs so far and I've only done the rear. But more of that later.
Step 1:
Loosen the rear wheel nuts,
Chock the front wheels,
Take off the hand brake,
Jack up the rear on the center of the axle,
Lower back onto axle stands.
Step 2:
Remove the brake drum. There's probably a way to get in from the brake back plate to undo the adjuster to make it easier, but I managed to just wiggle the drum off. It didn't even really need a tap with a hammer to free it up.
Step 3:
Remove all the brake parts so that you have clearence to work. I find its best to lay these sorts of parts out under the car in the order that you remove them to assist with getting them back in. I was working without a haynes and I've not opened a drum brake for a long time so I just made it up as i went along.
Step 4:
Remove the first stud. Only remove and fit one at a time! You need the other studs in place to lever against when pulling the new stud into place.
A Household/DIY claw hammer isn't going to cut it here you want something with some weight.
Step 5:
I thought at first the studs were too long to fit, but then with some giggling and wiggling I found that this part of the pressing gives just enough room for the +20 stud.
Step 6:
Pull the stud into place by sliding a socket over it then tightening a wheel nut up on it to pull it through the hub. A washer between the nut and the socket would help but I didn't have any big enough. Also a good smear of grease between the nut and socket will reduce some of the friction and make it easier do up.
Step 7:
Repeat steps 4 - 6 three more times. Put the brakes back together. If you cant remember hoe it went, get the drum off the other side and use that for reference.
Now here's where I ballsed up. I must have wound the adjuster further out while re-assembeling the brakes. The drum was an arse to get back on and now the brakes are binding. I did the same the other side too, I kindof hoped that they would free off after a drive but I need to take the drums back off and re adjust. I think I might also have to change the brake fluid, i suspect I might have boiled it.
The other issue I have is that the splined section is about 1.5mm longer on the replacement studs. I'm not sure if the drum has seated properly. There doesn't seem to be any vibration, but if there is an issue I will just drill a slight clearence on the inside of the drums.
So rather than getting on with the front, I'm still sorting the rear. Bumhats.
Well you guys wanted to know how it went. There's been some up and downs so far and I've only done the rear. But more of that later.
Step 1:
Loosen the rear wheel nuts,
Chock the front wheels,
Take off the hand brake,
Jack up the rear on the center of the axle,
Lower back onto axle stands.
Step 2:
Remove the brake drum. There's probably a way to get in from the brake back plate to undo the adjuster to make it easier, but I managed to just wiggle the drum off. It didn't even really need a tap with a hammer to free it up.
Step 3:
Remove all the brake parts so that you have clearence to work. I find its best to lay these sorts of parts out under the car in the order that you remove them to assist with getting them back in. I was working without a haynes and I've not opened a drum brake for a long time so I just made it up as i went along.
Step 4:
Remove the first stud. Only remove and fit one at a time! You need the other studs in place to lever against when pulling the new stud into place.
A Household/DIY claw hammer isn't going to cut it here you want something with some weight.
Step 5:
I thought at first the studs were too long to fit, but then with some giggling and wiggling I found that this part of the pressing gives just enough room for the +20 stud.
Step 6:
Pull the stud into place by sliding a socket over it then tightening a wheel nut up on it to pull it through the hub. A washer between the nut and the socket would help but I didn't have any big enough. Also a good smear of grease between the nut and socket will reduce some of the friction and make it easier do up.
Step 7:
Repeat steps 4 - 6 three more times. Put the brakes back together. If you cant remember hoe it went, get the drum off the other side and use that for reference.
Now here's where I ballsed up. I must have wound the adjuster further out while re-assembeling the brakes. The drum was an arse to get back on and now the brakes are binding. I did the same the other side too, I kindof hoped that they would free off after a drive but I need to take the drums back off and re adjust. I think I might also have to change the brake fluid, i suspect I might have boiled it.
The other issue I have is that the splined section is about 1.5mm longer on the replacement studs. I'm not sure if the drum has seated properly. There doesn't seem to be any vibration, but if there is an issue I will just drill a slight clearence on the inside of the drums.
So rather than getting on with the front, I'm still sorting the rear. Bumhats.
OP
OP
OP
OP
On the ones I fitted there was a definate tell tale mark on the inside of the disc that showed that the splined section was in contact. Perhaps there is a slight difference in the thickness of the hub between early and later cars or between 1.0 and 1.3 front hubs, I'm sure I've read on here that the drive shafts/CV joints are different so perhaps the hub casting is slighly different too.
