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Have you a sunroof? I know on my mera behind the struts rot out and in the boot area because the sunroof drain became blocked, hardly a similar issue?

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Yeah ive a sunroof, drain points have been re-routed nit that it was ever going to stop what was already there
 
bishbosh area ? :)
sdc12388-jpg.19159
 
thats the thing with rust,,,,,youd never want to seal moister in with the new repair. might be worth getting it re new'd in the dryer weather,, if we get any :)
 
thats the thing with rust,,,,,youd never want to seal moister in with the new repair. might be worth getting it re new'd in the dryer weather,, if we get any :)
This is England. We never get Noice weather anymore

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Ach ill sort something out, the area where the rust is will be took back to the metal, rust cut out. New patches, all sealed up, stone chipped. Anything to give me another couple years in the car
 
Ive been looking into them but thats for when ive got money to burn again lol

This years plans are:

MOT (hopefully turbo'd)
Find the limit of my standard engine
Many upgrades etc
13.999 1/4 mile time
 
Plans cancelled, went to fit the drop links last night at glens so we got my car on the ramp and took the wheels off. Firstly i noticed one of my rear HOL 50mm springs was snapped! So took it out and cleaned the spring seat on the axle and put a hole bigger than a £2 coin in it! So got screwdriver happy and went over the rest of the car and got another 2 holed areas so giving up here. I have until march to decide what im doing. May sell the complete car with all parts i have as it is 100% repairable! Pics to follow
 
Plans cancelled, went to fit the drop links last night at glens so we got my car on the ramp and took the wheels off. Firstly i noticed one of my rear HOL 50mm springs was snapped! So took it out and cleaned the spring seat on the axle and put a hole bigger than a £2 coin in it! So got screwdriver happy and went over the rest of the car and got another 2 holed areas so giving up here. I have until march to decide what im doing. May sell the complete car with all parts i have as it is 100% repairable! Pics to follow

If it's 100% repairable, what's the hold up?
 
Im just not willing to do patch after patch after patch. And i dont have the space or funds to strip it bare and do it the way i want it done

Sorry to hear that Stani :( Quite a problem now with K11's getting old and the UK lust for salt :mad:

We have some minor work on the driver's strut tower to do and have already restored the rear end, (incl a complete rear axle strip down), plus both rear sills, which is a lot more involving than gutting and stuffing on a patch like most garages do......that is if you still want rigidity to remain in that area.
 
Sorry to hear that Stani :( Quite a problem now with K11's getting old and the UK lust for salt :mad:

We have some minor work on the driver's strut tower to do and have already restored the rear end, (incl a complete rear axle strip down), plus both rear sills, which is a lot more involving than gutting and stuffing on a patch like most garages do......that is if you still want rigidity to remain in that area.

I know, ive had higher mileage micras that have seen better days. This is my first facelift and to me its bad, so the plan is sell it for the right price if someone doesnt mind the odd patch here or there and if not look out for a non sunroof very low mileage 2002 plate and transfer everything over! Oh and poke it with screwdrivers before i hand any cash over lol
 
Ive been looking into them but thats for when ive got money to burn again lol

This years plans are:

MOT (hopefully turbo'd)
Find the limit of my standard engine
Many upgrades etc
13.999 1/4 mile time
I've got a GoPro HD2 here if you ever want a shot of it :D only condition is yah need to take me a run in it haha :p
 
Sorry to hear that Stani :( Quite a problem now with K11's getting old and the UK lust for salt :mad:

Tell me about it they were gritting the roads while temps were well above freezing the other night a few weeks back...

That hole in the floor looks a canny size...totally sucks when you find crap like that.
 
Can you weld matey?

If so thats a days work and your back on track :) Shame your so far from me to be honest!
 
Yeah i can and so can glen. Like i said ill sell up at the right price if not ill be looking for the best shell i can find and if not ill break it
 
Its because it goes from (in my head) not being rusty to needing 4 patches done (and a holed axle) i will decide until the MOT comes, if nobody makes an offer then balls in my park but right now im looking for another micra and it must be very very clean
 
Come to Ireland and pick up a march, plenty going for good money and chances are the shells for the most part will be rust free being an import

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Its because it goes from (in my head) not being rusty to needing 4 patches done (and a holed axle) i will decide until the MOT comes, if nobody makes an offer then balls in my park but right now im looking for another micra and it must be very very clean
But then you'll have to go through all the hassle of either engine swap which isn't that long really or having to re turbo or swap the turbo stuff about either way a few wee dinky patches will sort it out, but I know where you are coming from I my car got jacked up and the sill under folded a bit and I was like **** this selling up. Haha
 
Yeah, it was the same with the sills on mine, it looked like a quick small fix until i started jabbing at it...ended up replacing both sills and then the cross member, the insides weren't that bad considering. Arches would have needed some work as well if i wasn't already cutting them out.

There's definitely bits that should have been fastened / covered differently as they seem to attract moisture / salt / mud with gaps in the panels where the factory underseal / sound deadening / panel protecting stuff hasn't covered...and not a lot of people bother with the underside of the car, hell its seems difficult for some of them to wash under the arches. :(

I'd consider patching it up if you've got all the bits handy, gives you a bit more time to decide (worst case you've spent a few hours patching for no reason, though i guess It's for me to say that as i don't have the hassle of doing it) :) . While there are bound to be plenty on decent shells knocking about I think the only way you're gonna find a 100% guaranteed rust free shell is from someone who's already done the work on it (matts rally prepped one's for example).
 
Ive had my arm twisted too far were going to go ahead with welding the car up. But first were going to make sure there isnt anymore hidden rust so ive bought a 12 pack of flappy grinding discs and were going to take back the whole underside and arches to the metal and work from there but fo it in stages as i still need the car. Today i had a few hours to get a better view of the 4 patches we know about, i took them back to the metal, applied kurust over a good few hours and then painted over temporarily. Heres how it looks at the moment:

N/S Front Footwell
CBF11FA2-9F79-4B92-A5BD-C84A725C1403-2759-000001BD162E7778.jpg

E8779D5A-4449-413F-958A-5CCAB6162619-2759-000001BD517566E6.jpg


N/S Rear Footwell
7818DBFE-BAAA-4EE5-A61F-064B722B71C8-2759-000001BD1DEA9ADF.jpg

71ED54E1-3F2A-4F14-A34E-98309FF412BB-2759-000001BD583D43ED.jpg


N/S Rear Wheel Arch
00A5C815-075B-48DB-9F4F-93D160939913-2759-000001BD3B1353F5.jpg

4C4363D4-B6DB-4A5D-8DA3-D4453AD054E2-2759-000001BD638EC134.jpg


O/S Rear Wheel Arch
3FEB50D2-E54E-4260-878A-CC85FD761BC9-2759-000001BD416C24BC.jpg

639CFE20-0390-4765-A37D-7EBB27962D69-2759-000001BD671258E1.jpg


Once we get down to business ill be cutting back each area and we'll plate either side. Now from there is where i need advice on whats best to use to protect the whole cars underside.

In my head i thought either:

1: Primer-stonechip-paint-underseal
2: Stonechip-primer-paint-underseal
3: What order you say is best lol

Also threw my rear bumper on to see how it looks
D6CE6666-41F4-4D39-B923-F53BB863B757-2759-000001BD73AEC61F.jpg
 
i,ve always used a 50/50 mix of shutz and oil stani, it stops the shutz drying out fully, and seeps into the joints :)
 
Boeshield T-9 for anything that requires penetration. It goes on like WD40 but dries unlike straight Waxoil, so it doesn't attract much dirt which is the trouble with anything that doesn't dry. It's especially good for bolts to avoid the usual corrosion scenarios or snapped off bolts.

For panels I mix Waxoil under-body seal with about 30% white spirit and spray on with a high pressure spray gun, the white spirit reduces the viscosity allowing a good spray, then evaporates away and leaves the underseal behind. It however goes on just as well with a brush, I only do it that way because it leaves a nicer finish and I have the gear to do it.
 
3 out of 4 of those were exactly where mine were starting to go. Shame we couldn't complain to nissan (design flaw) and all get free replacement shells lol.

Get a small batch just for the MSC. :D
 
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