Understanding ECU's

Hi all. I am going round in circles trying to understand how the ECU works.

To start with, I had a problem with one of my cylinders just not firing at all. After checking spark, leads, distributor, I finally found that the plug of the petrol injector had 12 volts on the one side and 5volts on the other side when unplugged. Also making up a jerry noid light, there was definitely no switching on or of the light when I cranked the engine over. Conclusion. ECU stuffed.

Bought a brand new one for £85.00 and thought that would be the problem solved. I checked the voltage on the injector plug and that is now fine. The car started and I could hear everything was fine, but after a couple of seconds it then cut out and does this all the time.

Now I am presuming it has something to do with an immobiliser. What else do I have to do with this ECU to get it to work? Do I have to take it to Nissan or an Auto electrical shop to have it programmed, or what? What is the simplest way. When I bought it, they did say it was uncoded, if that helps. Also it is an identical part no to the one I am replacing.
I have looked through the forum and everybody talks about Nats and rings. I have a 1995 Kll 1.3 with nothing on the keys. They all look plain black to me and no auto locking. It's all mechanical. I lean in the front door and open the rest from there.

Anybody with an answer would be much appreciated.
 
ecm

Hi Frank,

The ecm on an early k11 has 2 rows of pins , the later ones with nats 2 have 3 rows of pins. Pin 88 - violet wire is the one that is used for nats. Early non red keys have no pin 88 ya see...

Check the ecm power supply in the front fuse box located at the ns headlamp you might find el fuse is el rotto!!
If its rotted cut the small wire under the fuse and solder a londer wire from that to an external 10 amp fuse holder. Solder the other part to the big thick other live cable.
Any probs im here to help
Catch ya later
Ben
 
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