Turbo Change - how?

[smidge]

Turbo Change - Broken stuff WITH PICS!

hi guys - see the newest post for the ugly photos.

so my mechanic friend and i are 99% sure that my oil in the radiator woes are being caused by a worn out turbo core

i've got the spare thats on my 2nd engine, so i'm happy to swap them over to eliminate that possibility (while getting the original rebuilt)


could someone give me a few tips on how to change it? (full cooling system flush i'll have to do too, any tips for that?)

thanks a bunch fellas!

 

[Baz]

Here's a simple guide for you Marty:

Remove outlet boost hose and intake,

Drain Coolant and remove rad (makes sense as there more room to work on it and no chance of damaging the rads core)

Remove all water / oil feeds and returns from turbo

Remove cat and then remove the 6 manifold nuts. . .4 on top ,2 on the bottom

The nut under the compressor housing is tricky but can be got with a 12 or maybe 13mm spanner. The two bottom nuts can be got with a wrachet and extension with a bit of messing but once the socket sits on the nut your laughing!!!

Remove the whole manifold/turbo assembly

4 nuts holding the turbo to the mani, undo these very carefully while the whole thing is in a vice (if possible)

Remove the tubby

(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y) Hope this helps Man

 

[smidge]

Onya Baz thats very helpful thankyou!

as for putting it back together, do i need to do anything special when filling it back up with coolant to make sure there's no air pockets etc?

also that little silicone hose that goes to the turbo is covered with oil and totally stuffed, can i replace it with normal silicone hose?

 

[Baz]

Alright man yeah the hoses should be grand!!

As for airlocks make sure the front of the car is on axle stands,top it up til the rads full, have someone run the engine for 2-3mins at 2500-3000rpm and squeeze the top and bottom rad hoses to get rid of any remaining air(Y)

Make sure the bottom rad hose get warm/hot and let the fan cut in and out a few times , put the rad cap on to pressurize the system , take it off the th axle stands and take it for a rip!!!(Y)


Just note that the water feed and return connections on the turbo have a copper washer either side of the fitting , keep an eye on these wile taking the fittings off, and although they can can be reused you can change them if you like. . . .

I've worked on two st's with these missing and people wondering why they are leaking water:suspect:

I'm a serious plumber at heart , don't like leaks!! :laugh:

Off topic: My cousin went over to Oz on Tuesday to do electrical work in a mine. . .you know anyone working in any? pm me if you like to keep the thread clean

Baz

 

[smidge]

alright so i got the old turbo and manifold off the old motor... only one stubborn nut that ended up bringing out the whole stud with it, no massive deal i suppose

do you guys bother replacing those rusty old nuts with new ones? any particular type i should look for? (stainless? hi tensile stuff?)

turbo looks to be in okay condition, no visible blade damange and the shaft doesn't move about much

as long as the core of this one is sound i should be sweet! time to research how to flush out this cooling system properly

(i assume take the thermostat out, and from cold stick a hose through the whole system, right?)

 

[smidge]

got started on this on the weekend

i'll let the pictures do the talking...

(yes it's still in there, all advice appreciated)

 

[frank]

it should drill and tap out ok smidge, back the tap off many times tho to stop it jamming in the thread remains (bust the tap and you will be in the shy te )

 

[superls]

alright so i got the old turbo and manifold off the old motor... only one stubborn nut that ended up bringing out the whole stud with it, no massive deal i suppose

do you guys bother replacing those rusty old nuts with new ones? any particular type i should look for? (stainless? hi tensile stuff?)

turbo looks to be in okay condition, no visible blade damange and the shaft doesn't move about much

as long as the core of this one is sound i should be sweet! time to research how to flush out this cooling system properly

(i assume take the thermostat out, and from cold stick a hose through the whole system, right?)

thats how i do mine.

 

[smidge]

it should drill and tap out ok smidge, back the tap off many times tho to stop it jamming in the thread remains (bust the tap and you will be in the shy te )

yeah i was thinking of using some Lefthand drillbits and an easy out

only done it once before, i think my biggest problem will be getting hte drill square on with the aircon in the way, might have to invest in a 90degree air drill

 

[smidge]

Dudes. It works.

I came home early from work yesterday at about 2pm and at 6pm it was all back together

i got the exhaust stud out with an easy-out that all went fine, then bolted it all back up together

im a little bit surprised its all working actually, considering the turbo is god knows how old, well, at least 20 years old and dunno how many years its just been sitting at a wreckers...

couldn't find any solid info on how tight to torque up the exhaust stud nuts so just did em till they felt right, i think my old system must have had an exhaust leak cause there was white powdery stuff around the dump and wastegate, which would explain it not boosting properly

i haven't put all the heat sheilds back on yet i thought i'd give it a day or two of driving around first (it will melt my bonnet if i leave them off hey?)

so anyway, it pulls a little harder up top now, still a little rich but better than it ever has before

there is still a tiny bit of oil on the radiator cap but this could just be the old residue being stirred up, i flushed the rad as best i could but i doubt i'd be able to get all of the baked in oil off without taking it to a radiator joint, which i may still do.