suspension woes!

[Chops]

Hello all, i was fitting some lovely fk lowering springs to my little beast, and all was going well, until i came to remove the top hat. the bolt at the top looked easy enough to remove, just a 12 mill socket job, but upon attempt found that the bolt it is screwed to rotates with it, emmitting a squeaking sound . I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to get the bugger off, as i cant do it otherwise! (a friend of mine is also fitting coilovers, and has had similar problems ). thanks for any help in advance!

 

[Guy]

I got mine off with a leccy impact wrench and a new set of locking pliers. There's no easy way really .

 

[skymera]

You need to stop the shock spinning with a spanner then undo the nut with another iirc

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[skymera]

Or an Allen key, can't remember which

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[Guy]

There is an Allen socket on the end of the chrome shaft but unless the shock's newish, chances are the socket will be rusty and'll round off straight away. Having a flat on the shaft is perfect but quite rare. Also, to make it even more of a challenge, the factory nuts aren't Nylocks. Nissan use a galvanized nut that's been mechanically pinched to distort it so it really grips the thread when fitted .

 

[Chops]

Wow fast responses, thanks guys! the top of the threaded bar the bolts attached to has two flats to form a kind of slot, instead of the allen key hole my friends skoda fabia and seat ibizas have (damn VAG group lol). ive looked about and found a through socket and allen key are the waepons of choice, but mine isnt allen key friendly . i havent found any other point to hold the damn thing still, seems to be right in the centre of the unit! havent even attempted the rears yet lol, god knows how theyll go.

 

[Chops]

any ideas which tool to use to hold that slot still? its got me stumped.

 

[skymera]

Mole grips? The rears are usually much easier as they're not weathered

Maybe try some wd40 or heat

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[Guy]

I used molegrips and an electric impact wrench. It's quite a 'dramatic' process but it works .

 

[Chops]

where did you attach the molegrips? none of the outside of the unit rotates with the bar

 

[Guy]

Here ya go. Once the spring is compressed, you have a clear section of shaft to grip. I used new molegrips and clamped it shut so hard I practically had to stand on the molegrips to lock them (it still doesn't mar the chrome!)

 

[Chops]

oh! thanks alot i see now, though that one dosnt resemble my k11's, the springs different. I expect it works the same tho, so ill give that a go! ill do a tutorial, so others dont have this headache lol.

 

[markbognor]

I have heard tell that a swan neak spanner is the way forward, though I haven't dismantled a strut on a K11, so can't speak from personal experience in this instance.
It's important that you don't let the shock rod rotate because it can damage the shock parts inside.

 

[Guy]

That works for the back Mark because you have a good flat bit on the end to hold with an adjustable .

 

[Chops]

oh bugger, i may have spun the crap out of it, tho not too violently. a swan neck couldnt get into the depression on the top hat at the front, too narrow. a through socket and some custom tool for holding the flat on the threaded bar is the only option for undoing it from just the top, but ill have to go with compressing the spring untill the shock is exposed route then clamp with a molegrip with taped jaws , as suggested by guy.

 

[TheSam]

if you grip the damper rod and end up scoring it, if this goes through the damper seal it will ruin it and cause leaks....

Small spanner on the flat and a swan neck on the nut easiest way. or clamp the end of the damper rod in a vice and spanner on the nut.

 

[Chops]

the problem is sam that if i use a spanner on the flat, i cannot get the nut i wish to undo underneath as it sits IN the tophat in a silly place. with most cars you use a through spanner with an allen key slotted through holding the bar still, but mine has no allen key slot so thats not an option for me . im just off to attempt this with the mole grips, lets see how it goes :L

 

[karlj]

As long as you grip it as close to the top mount as you can get it you won't have any problems, I've done it this way without scouring the shaft

 

[Guy]

Are you removing the top without compressing the spring ?

 

[karlj]

Are you removing the top without compressing the spring ?

I've done that once when the shock was still on the car

 

[solarice]

I have heard tell that a swan neak spanner is the way forward, though I haven't dismantled a strut on a K11, so can't speak from personal experience in this instance.
It's important that you don't let the shock rod rotate because it can damage the shock parts inside.

Thats how ive always removed them (springs compressed). Two normal spanners on the rears is all you need.

 

[Chops]

Well that went well, didnt even manage to do mine (yes i have the compression springs, dont worry ). A friend and i were going to do both our cars at once, but after fitting his rears we managed to break the steering (track rod end? i dont really have a clue :L) and scupper his car for a day or two. will report back when his is fixed and done and we can finally do mine!

 

[Chops]

Sorry about the wait, almost necroposting now, but i thought id finish this thread up. I successfully lowered my car round a friends, and managed lo leave my camera 30 miles away which i was not gonna go back for so there are no pictures sadly. I can However, report that the taped molegrips on the chrome is a pretty affective method, it didnt damage any of the suspension at all, though you will have to stand on the grips to get them to grip tightly enough with the tape to undo the top nut, and it can be a real pain to get between the springs to grip them at times. My friend and I managed the whole job with 2 jackstands, a trolly jack, the venerable (and now bent ) taped molegrips, a selection of sockets (and ratchet), spring compressors, copious amounts of WD40 and some ring spanners, adding elbow grease/violence to taste. its not a difficult job at all, having done my friends nightmarish seat I found it rediculously easy, though some of the bolts were pretty tight. In hindsight id say that with some preperation (ie correct tools, bowl for the nuts and bolts and a nice level location with no small component munching crevasses!) it could be done in around 2 to 2 and a half hours with a resonably competetant mate. I would also recommend the springs i got, which were LKs, nice drop and much improved ride, without loosing practicality or all comfort ( I also fitted a full set of lk coilys to a friends fabia and they're the buisness imo).

Thanks for all the advice everyone, you have mine, and my friends gratitude!