Fitted New Front Wing to Facelift K11

My wife has been bugging me to sort out the rusty front wing on her 1999 1.0 K11, and after reading a number of the posts on here it persuaded me to give it a try. I found a place on EBay that would supply a painted aftermarket wing, and one that arrived, and the weather was fine I decided to get it done.

Before the change it looked like this…..
4D4B754E-1E08-437A-ABBE-0090327D74D5.jpeg

I could have cut it out and patched it but I decided it was easier just to replace the wing. It started out easy enough….

169F2D9D-F49E-4EE5-9838-FBCF9CCFC505.jpeg

Using a 10mm socket and a 10mm ring spanner I got all the bolts out from in the engine bay, and from the door pillar…
0BE1F8DE-ED9B-4893-B37D-93C981EA5EC3.jpeg

You need to use a ring spanner for the door bolt as you can’t get a socket in there.
Then I needed to get the car on the jack and take off the wheel and the plastic wheel arch liner.

7723C17E-35A0-4E7B-8A5C-747FA3C56F86.jpeg

The liner is mostly fastened with Philips-headed screws into plastic bushes clipped into the wing- more on this later.
Moving into the two sill bolts, both of these sheared off when trying to loosen them with the socket.
4EC3D2E4-2D29-41C5-B8AC-BB7931A78B6C.jpeg

However, the most difficult and time consuming part was removing the bumper-end bolts and unclipping the fasteners. There are three bolts/fasteners at the bumper end, plus the screw and clip into the headlight assembly.

25217762-57C4-4203-A9DB-F78F0F2D0980.jpeg


The two shown below were the worst to remove - the nearest would not budge with the ring spanner and there was not enough room to get the ratchet socket wrench in between the bumper.

4E0AAE89-078A-4874-991E-61161BB0F0CA.jpeg

Finally I managed to pull back the bumper and get the socket in attached to the non-rachet handle
B9E71EE4-B228-4FC6-972B-980D258E06DA.jpeg

The far end bolt inside the black plastic clip would turn with the ring spanner but access is very restricted and I managed to get it out after about 10 minutes of tiny turns.

I thought that was everything, but there was still something holding onto the bumper.
it turned out to be the black plastic clip that was attached to the bumper and the wing - two plastic “splines” push into the wing and need to be compressed and pulled out before the wing can be moved. I was nearly resigned to having to take the bumper off, however my neighbour came to the rescue with a pair of L-shaped long nose pliers that we managed to get into the restricted space and could squeeze the splines. This is what the clip looks like when removed:

95ABD1DD-E426-4D13-BF52-79ABEABE64F1.jpeg


With that clip freed, the wing came free and we could remove it

97ECC4B2-E062-43AC-8405-648C92D10811.jpeg


Next, the sheared bolts needed to be drilled out - with a small pilot hole drilled, a 6.5mm high-speed steel drill bit drilled the remains of the bolts out ( running the drill slowly)
1FC224AC-2D1C-4248-B314-925EA064CB2A.jpeg


The new wing could now be fitted, using new M6 (16mm shaft length) bolts and nuts to replace the sheared bolts
660FDE0D-1DF6-4603-96B8-0E4BDBDEDBCC.jpeg


before re-fitting the wheel arch liner, I needed to recover and fit as many of the plastic bushes from the old wing, using mole grips to push them out of the holes in the old wing - this is what they look like

F1E583F1-11BA-4309-8797-51AC0FEB86B9.jpeg


After refitting the liner, the indicator repeater, getting the wheel back on, moving the 16V badge from the old wing, and applying a little underseal to the sill bolts, the job was complete.

116E8809-9228-47BD-A245-21E1840AC30D.jpeg


In total, the job took about 5hours in total - most of the time was in removing the bumper- end fastenings and drilling out the sheared bolts etc. I’m pretty pleased with the result - the colour match is good, the panel gaps are a little wider than standard ( esp between the wing and the door) but I’m pretty happy as im not that experienced in bodywork repair. Most importantly the missus is happy that she now has her “Tidy little Micra” looking good again.
 

Attachments

  • 68362D1E-E7B1-4917-84EA-80EFC587258C.jpeg
    68362D1E-E7B1-4917-84EA-80EFC587258C.jpeg
    598.9 KB · Views: 239
I've removed the front wings recently myself and have a couple of tips for the two bottom m6 bolts . 1 : When you start to unscrew , go 1/2 a turn or so , or until you meet resistance . Then screw back in and clean the protruding bolt on the inboard side with a wire brush and then try to remove the offender . Should this fail & the bolt shears the the bolt can be screwed towards the inboard with a pair of Mole grips because the thread will be clean . 2 : Replace the bolts with stainless steel ones ; these can be had on e-bay in small quantities for pennies . This means that the next time you have to remove the wing ( and you will ! ) it should be easy to do !
 
My wife has been bugging me to sort out the rusty front wing on her 1999 1.0 K11, and after reading a number of the posts on here it persuaded me to give it a try. I found a place on EBay that would supply a painted aftermarket wing, and one that arrived, and the weather was fine I decided to get it done.

Before the change it looked like this…..
View attachment 74925
I could have cut it out and patched it but I decided it was easier just to replace the wing. It started out easy enough….

View attachment 74926
Using a 10mm socket and a 10mm ring spanner I got all the bolts out from in the engine bay, and from the door pillar…
View attachment 74927
You need to use a ring spanner for the door bolt as you can’t get a socket in there.
Then I needed to get the car on the jack and take off the wheel and the plastic wheel arch liner.

View attachment 74928
The liner is mostly fastened with Philips-headed screws into plastic bushes clipped into the wing- more on this later.
Moving into the two sill bolts, both of these sheared off when trying to loosen them with the socket.
View attachment 74929
However, the most difficult and time consuming part was removing the bumper-end bolts and unclipping the fasteners. There are three bolts/fasteners at the bumper end, plus the screw and clip into the headlight assembly.

View attachment 74930

The two shown below were the worst to remove - the nearest would not budge with the ring spanner and there was not enough room to get the ratchet socket wrench in between the bumper.

View attachment 74931
Finally I managed to pull back the bumper and get the socket in attached to the non-rachet handle
View attachment 74932
The far end bolt inside the black plastic clip would turn with the ring spanner but access is very restricted and I managed to get it out after about 10 minutes of tiny turns.

I thought that was everything, but there was still something holding onto the bumper.
it turned out to be the black plastic clip that was attached to the bumper and the wing - two plastic “splines” push into the wing and need to be compressed and pulled out before the wing can be moved. I was nearly resigned to having to take the bumper off, however my neighbour came to the rescue with a pair of L-shaped long nose pliers that we managed to get into the restricted space and could squeeze the splines. This is what the clip looks like when removed:

View attachment 74933

With that clip freed, the wing came free and we could remove it

View attachment 74934

Next, the sheared bolts needed to be drilled out - with a small pilot hole drilled, a 6.5mm high-speed steel drill bit drilled the remains of the bolts out ( running the drill slowly)
View attachment 74936

The new wing could now be fitted, using new M6 (16mm shaft length) bolts and nuts to replace the sheared bolts
View attachment 74937

before re-fitting the wheel arch liner, I needed to recover and fit as many of the plastic bushes from the old wing, using mole grips to push them out of the holes in the old wing - this is what they look like

View attachment 74938

After refitting the liner, the indicator repeater, getting the wheel back on, moving the 16V badge from the old wing, and applying a little underseal to the sill bolts, the job was complete.

View attachment 74939

In total, the job took about 5hours in total - most of the time was in removing the bumper- end fastenings and drilling out the sheared bolts etc. I’m pretty pleased with the result - the colour match is good, the panel gaps are a little wider than standard ( esp between the wing and the door) but I’m pretty happy as im not that experienced in bodywork repair. Most importantly the missus is happy that she now has her “Tidy little Micra” looking good again.
This looks great. This guide is super helpful as well. Can I ask if you have the link for the supplier for the pre-painted wing? I need to get one (coincidentally also in silver).
 
Good description of this task thank you.
I just replaced OS wing on my car which had rotted through right aroung the wheel arch. The NS wing has no rust at all.
Another tip is to remove 2 bolts holding the bumper on in front of the wing you are removing. You can then pull it out and drop the fastener bumper part behind the steel chassis. Then the bumper is held out of the way enough to slide wing in to place or take it back out easily. it also stops the bumper scratching the wing.
Also put masking tape around door top and bottom, wing mirror and bumper corner to stop the wing scratching paintwork.
The 2 bottom bolts sheared off as expected. I drilled right through the remaining bolt, painted then used stainless M6 x 20mm bolts with stainless nyloc nuts behind. This way i didnt need to mess about tapping a thread into the welded on nuts. One had snapped off anyway. Used washers both sides too.
20230404_130835.jpg
 
Back
Top